Reddit reviews LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone/iPod/iPad and Android. New: Configurable Auto On/Off

First, some background: The percentage display on the dashboard is only loosely related to the actual state of charge of the battery, because the battery management system reserves a buffer at both the bottom and top end of the charge range to protect the longevity of the battery. When you charge up to 100%, there's 38-39 kWh in the battery rather than 40 kWh. The highest I've gotten the true SoC (state of charge) of the battery to when it showed 100% on the dashboard is 98.2%, but 95-97% has been more common. Similarly, when it says 4% on the dashboard, there's a good bit more than 4% of actual charge still in the battery. It's like how you can drive many miles after the meter reads "E" (empty) in a gas car. After 0% it'll show "--%" if it's like previous year Leafs while driving quite a few more miles, then you'll get a turtle icon and reduced power for a final mile or two to safely pull over. At that point, the car will stop moving, but there's actually some kWh of power still in the pack, because running a lithium ion battery down to real 0% permanently damages it and the car won't let you do that.

THAT SAID, I am slightly concerned about what you've said. I did a 60 mile highway drive yesterday with the A/C on full blast in 90 degree weather and >70 MPH most of the way, and still averaged 4 miles per kWh. I don't think I've ever gotten only 3.2 miles per kWh in the new Leaf. I've had many trips with more than 5 miles per kWh on 35-45 MPH roads. I am easily getting the 150 miles per charge, so if you're only getting 80-120, that sounds wrong.

This sounds silly, but what are your tire pressures at? The difference between underinflated and overinflated tires can easily be 10% or more on your miles/kWh efficiency. I have mine at 42 PSI right now. When a new car shows up at a dealership, one of the things they do to prep it for sale is to let air out of the tires, because they're shipped overinflated. If they let out too much, you'll want to pump them back up above 40 PSI (well above the 36 PSI the sticker says to inflate them to, I know) and go on another long drive to see if that improves your efficiency.

If that doesn't work, the next thing I'd do is get on Amazon and order this OBDII scanner and download the Leaf Spy Pro app on your phone. That will let you see the real State of Charge in kWh for your car whenever you want, which will help you figure out if there's a real issue here.

• Typical Leaf Spy Pro screenshot near 100% charge
  
• New battery stats
  
• 4 mi/kWh was my average over the first 220 miles I put on the car, which gives you 150+ miles range as advertised
  
• High efficiency on local trips shouldn't be too rare
  

I got mine through the same method order a Bluetooth obd2 I recommend LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool for iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOkTCbSP2W9Q1 and get leafspy pro app check SOH on battery.

I bought a used Leaf 2 years ago from a private seller. Interestingly enough used prices for Leafs are up since then. After driving the car for 2 years the car is worth the same or more than when I bought it.

Advice for buying now:

1. Buy an ODB adapter and the LeafSpy app https://www.amazon.ca/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC or similar
   
2. Test the vehicle before buying it and check the Battery State of Health (SoH) and Hx values in LeafSpy. Higher is better. Motorize will give you LeafSpy output for their Leafs but Campus Nissan will not. Their official Nissan battery report is useless.
   
3. If you can find a Leaf that came from Washington / Seattle that's generally better than California because the heat is what causes battery degradation so those from the pacific northwest are usually in better shape.
   
4. In Victoria Motorize are the better dealer but prices tend to be a bit higher than campus nissan but they are more honest. Cross shop both of them. If you have the time you can likely find even slightly better deals in Vancouver.
   
   Enjoy! I'm liking mine after 2 years. Battery not as good as a Tesla for sure for less than a quarter of the price I'm ok with that.

It is 100% possible to use a bluetooth OBD adapter with iOS. I currently use the LELink OBDII with my iPhone 6s Plus. I bought this one for the exact same reason you did: I wanted to be able to have internet and be able to have my car diagnostics. I use it with the OBD Fusion app and works like a charm. The thing works so well that I can have my Apple Watch (the app offers an Apple Watch app so therefore it is meant to be connected to a watch and phone at the same time) and my car's audio system connected all at once. That's three different Bluetooth devices connected at the same time.

Edit: This solution is $55 less expensive than the Automatic device.

I believe this is the one the app recommended at the time, LELink, so that's what I got, even though it's more expensive than most others. I can confirm it works, though: ww.amazon.com/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC

The iPhone wifi-only is not true anymore. I recently bought a Bluetooth low energy version. Waaay better than the wifi.

LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_xfd5wbAJA4EE7

I use this one with my iPhone SE, on the list of compatible LeafSpy Pro devices for iOS.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC

2013 Leaf SV

If you want to use it with an iPhone, you need WiFi or Bluetooth LE. A "regular" Bluetooth one won't work.

I bought one of these https://www.amazon.com/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC for $35 and a generic WiFi one for about $15. There is a little more support for the WiFi one in more apps, but the Bluetooth one will be a little simpler because you don't have to switch wifi networks.

You may want to get an extension cable, they are tiny so easy to leave connected all the time but really hard to take in and out. If you got some sort of pigtail cable it will probably be easier to disconnect.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Yeah, the LE Link (in case someone wants the link) is really slick by comparison to the other OBD connectors I saw. Very small, pulls nearly no power, and I never even had to pair it.

leaf spy recommended one specific scanner, the LELink bluetooth model.

I would go with that specific model.

it is awesome!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC

I've owned two wifi models, a chinese one and a good plx devices kiwi and the first was maddening and rarely worked correctly, and the second sometimes required extra resetting.

now that ios supports bluetooth, its all easy peasy.

You need an iphone that supports bluetooth 4.0.

anyway, leaf spy connects perfectly and without intervention or configuration in a second or two and its a whole different (good) experience.

Be wary of the really inexpensive ones. A lot of manufacturers have been keeping the model# and Amazon listing the same, but changing to a cheaper, less compatible chipset. In your link, people in 2015 and earlier say it work with Leaf. Some from in 2016-2018 say it doesn't.

I got burned on a different $10 model of these where the reviews said "Works with Leaf", and it didn't anymore.

This was the one I ended up getting that works: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/

> Do you think the one with 48000 miles has DC fast charge?

There is no way to speculate about either of them without actually looking at the car. If you can call the dealer and get them to post a picture of the charging port, that's the best way. And whatever you do, make sure to double-check it yourself before signing anything.

I bought this OBD reader, it works with TorquePro and LeafSpy, and is on Amazon Prime, at least in my area. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sure. This is the exact one I bought.

LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_46GLzbYEMWG80

Depends a bit on if you're on Android or iOS. iOS used to require one that used wifi but android worked with bluetooth. The adapter has to be version 2.1 compliant which most are not. This seems to be the recommended one per the app description: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=psdc_15707381_t1_B0755N61PW

I'm using this $35 one from Amazon and OBDFusion on iOS. I sprang for the optional IAP Ford code pack to read the specific codes for the FiST that AccessPort owners can monitor. $55 all in, and worth it since both items will work in any car.