Reddit reviews Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit

It's pretty easy to add a usb charging port with this and this.

The module plugs into the antenna jack on the PCM. The plug types are different so that's where the adapters come in. There is a stick on button to turn it on and off and control calls and audio track. You tune the radio to a specific station and hold the button to turn on the module and go into BT mode. Hold the button to turn it off if you want to listen to the radio.

Here is a good DIY guide. Pretty easy, even for a dunce like me. If you don't want to splice the power to your PCM harness, you can get a fuse doubler to plug into the fuse box in the driver's side footwell. For the mic, I just wedged it in the corner of the dome light frame piece and ran the cable along the headliner and around the passenger side, behind the glove box, and into the rear of the center console. You can tuck the wire into the passenger door rubber molding with a plastic card so it's hidden and tight.

/r/porsche thread

Ya, it's fairly easy. Use a company like Sonicelectronix.com, who have the best prices and often include free accessories for the install like wiring harnesses dash kits and antenna adapters.

The two things you will need to be aware of is that you will need the "keys" to get the radio out. They don't tend to come with the gear but you can usually take your car to your local shop and they will have keys and remove it for a few bucks. The next thing, to get an accessory wire, you must run a fusetap over to the fuse box on the driver side and tap into something that turns on and off with the car, like wipers.

How I did the wiring on mine:

Install the angel eyes themselves per instructions. Run the wiring so everything leads to the relay being mounted in the bin at the right rear of the engine bay. Early models have the DSC/ABS module there, later models have just an empty bin.

Use the following image of the relay as a guide to where you lead the wires. The Pinout will be the most useful part.

http://i.imgur.com/Yrm9vxU.jpg

30 - Angel eye positive wire

87A - To footwell light

87 - To positive battery terminal

85 - Trigger wire

86 - Ground

Most instructions have you running the trigger wire to the DME and here's where I differ. In the bin where you mount the relay you'll see a grommet with a rubber plug on the firewall side. Carefully cut a little "+" into that and feed the trigger wire and the one that goes to the footwell light through there. (See link at the bottom for a picture showing it)

Inside the car you're now going to work in/under/behind the glove compartment. With a flashlight look for where those wires you poked through the grommet came in and pull them through. Tap the footwell wire into the positive lead to a footwell light. The other one will share a connection with a circuit in the fuse panel. You want to use a slot that is on only when the ignition is in the "on" position, and is off when it's in "accessory" or "off". You can use a multimeter or a test light to confirm this. There should be several options. Now you need an "add-a-circuit" adapter like the link below. Use that to connect to the trigger lead. Be sure to use the fuse with the same rating as the one the angel eye wiring harness came with.

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427662052&sr=8-1&keywords=car+add+on+fuse

The link below is to a great step-by-step that I modified, so use it for the pictures and most individual steps, just on its Step 4, run the trigger to the fuse panel instead of the ECU accessory wire. These instructions also don't include step-by-step for running the other wire to the footwell light for the fade-on when you unlock and fade-off when you lock your car. It does show the grommet you'll be slicing to get the wires to the cabin though.

http://www.fastm.com/m3/angeleyes_orionv2.html

I've got the old version of that camera and it's very good. Importantly for me, it's small enough to fit behind my rear view mirror and has a really nice small mounting bracket with tape rather than a huge suction cup that will fall off every other week.

My power outlet is inconveniently placed, so I used add a circuit to hard wire it into my fuse box.

Use a multimeter, and figure out which of your fuses are only activated when the key is on.

Then use a fuse tapper("add-a-circuit kit") in place of it.

Done. Nice an easy, no splicing or anything.

I don't like mine being taken up either. I used a female cig lighter adapter and a fuse tap. So, this means I didn't have to cut up the BT adapter and have a non-destructive way to get 12v to the BT adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006TIRZA/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BGELQ

Easy way:

Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1347317089&sr=8-4&keywords=mini+fuse+add+a+circuit

Plug it into a circuit that comes on with ACC, being sure not to overload the fuses.

Run wires through the firewall. Attach red to red, black to Battery Neg.


Right way:

Use ACC/RUN signal to trigger fused relay. Output of relay runs radio.

I have had the 9500ix for 4+ years now and it's been working pretty well. It's saved me from at least 4-5 tickets. As /u/13489194 stated below though, there are newer models out there that work better and are worth a few extra bucks. What I've noticed in the past few years is a very annoying increase in false positives with all the new cars that have side radar blind spot detection.

I mounted mine up on the top of the windshield a few inches below the headliner and to the right of the rearview mirror. It doesn't obstruct my view, and only prevents the passenger sunshade from fully opening a bit.

What you want to do is get a hardwire cable, a tap-a-fuse, and a trim tool and just gently pull on the trim and use the plastic trim tool (aka bone tool) to push the wire in behind the trim, down the A-pillar, and then into the fuse box. Not sure about the S6, but on my A5, it made it easier getting it down the A pillar to remove the "Airbag" plastic cover piece that covers up a Torx screw, and slightly unscrew the cover over the pillar so you can more easily fish it in.

Hardwire that bad boy into a fuse that is only on when the car's ignition is on, such as the Homelink Garage door opening or something. I dunno about the S6, but on my A5 there are fuse panels on both the passenger and driver's side. I put mine on the driver's side so that I can mount the little mute button assembly w/ the included velcro right below the headlight switch assembly. I can easily and quickly mute it as well as see the flashing light while driving.

Some stuff I'd recommend:

Escort Max 360 Detector

Hardwire adapter unit (no need for the bluetooth one as the Max has bluetooth built into it now)

Tape a fuse

Trim tools to fish the wire in

Other common tools you'll need would be a screwdriver, Wire Crimper/Stripper, and a socket to punch down the ground connection in the fuse panel.

Also, you'll want to be running the Waze application when driving as it will notify you of police locations reported by users. That's saved me a lot, especially when they aren't using radar or are using laser.

Cigartte lighter socket + quality car phone charger + Add-a-circuit kit (check your fuse type) + some quality tape + Right-angle USB charging cable

You wire the red wire on the cigarette adapter to an add-a-ciruit (i.e. with a crimp tool). The black wire goes to ground (i.e. tucked under some bolt someplace, or a ring terminal ). You put the charger in the now-attached cigarette adapter in the fuse area under your driver's side dash. Then you need to route an appropriate USB cable (i.e. with one with a right-angle head or right-angle adapter on the dash cam side) to the under dash area (usually by tucking it under the headliner over the windshield, and then by popping the A-pillar cover off and the side panel of the dashboard, and feeding the cable through). Once you have all the wires under the dash, you just need to hook them up, test them, and then tape them together so they can't come loose.

The advantage of going this route is that you 'own' all the pieces. If any part of the formula isn't working out, you can change just that part. You also get a spare USB-C charging port for free since that adapter has both A and C.

The knivio bluetooth is a good call, ive had mine for almost a year now which works perfectly and have done exactly what you want to do. What i used was an Add a circuit and then wired a new cig socket to the add a circuit i bought form autozone. Now it will auto connect and turn on only when the key is switched to acc position when connected to the right fuse, typically rap, ign, with that specific size fuse. Also i just hid the extra socket under the dash. Also if you do end up getting a noticeable noise/interference which i highly doubt use this ground loop isolator.

Yes. You'll need to find a 12 volt power source that turns off with the key is removed from the ignition. This may or may not be simple. You'll need a multi-meter, and you'll need to probe power sources under the dash until you find one that cuts off when the key is out. Usually, the best place to start is at the inside fuse block. You can get a fuse tap that fits into the existing fuse slot and gives you a power lead and the existing fuse. [Like this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BGELQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687442&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000CQDRTI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0HP8993WYB5TQ9Q8D907)

You may need to look at your fuse block to see if you need one with a lower profile.

Check out this site to find an always-on circuit. Likely door locks, cabin lights, etc. Or you could splice one of the fuses under the steering column. Avoid anything airbag related (yellow stickers, yellow wires, yellow tape) and the illumination circuits (dash lights, backlit buttons, they are backwards from other circuits and you'll short it like I did). I'd probably recommend getting a fuse jumper and tapping into an always-on circuit. Be careful about draining the battery, of course. I'd suggest a mobile jump starter if you're planning on using power with the car off.

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369754411&sr=8-1&keywords=add+a+circuit

Hook the Bazooka harness's red cable to your car radio harness's orange cable. Hook the Bazooka harness's blue/white cable into your fuse box with an "add-a-circuit" available at your local Walmart or Autozone. Use some speaker wire or something to get it over there and ziptie it neatly along they way. Add it to a circuit that turns on and off with the key, maybe the cigarette lighter circuit. Hook the black ground ring to a bare metal (not painted) bolt on your car's chassis. Hook the speakers up as stated. When you're all done, make sure it works and that it turns off when your car is off. Enjoy!

The power connector needs to run to a switched power source. In Trailblazers (and most other late model GMs), there is no switched power wire for the stereo. This gives you 2 options. Option 1 is to run the power connector wire to a physical switch that you would have to flip to turn the amp on and off. This is less than ideal, because if you forget to turn it off, you can end up draining your battery. Option 2 is to get an add-a-fuse, and put it in to a slot (such as cigarette lighter) in the fuse box (under the rear seat) that will give you switched power. You might have to try a few different slots until one works.

I did the same, took me a while to get it working properly though.

I don't know, I don't use the cable clips. I used one of these to wire it into my car and ran the cable behind the siding roof lining.

Nah I'm totally okay with running cable through the firewall. I've set up the sound system in my car so I've already done that for the power cable, I've also tapped into the clock for the remote wire for the amp.
So essentially, find out where the fuse is for dome lights, (insert object always on here), plug in one of these bad boys: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ
and use the wire for power?

Not in my jeep but I installed a sat radio box in my moms new honda and had to top into a constant and switched source. I bought two Add-A-Circuits from AutoZone. Just get the right size for your fuses.

Use a multimeter to find an open fuse slot in the fuse box that is a switched source. (Just have someone in passenger seat turned key on/off for you while you check them) Tap into it with the add-a-circuit and most have their own fuse holder so you can prevent any problems.

****Do any of this at your own risk or hire a professional to do it for you.***

Here are the parts I ordered to put mine together. I'm posting this bc of PMs.

Mobius or [Cheaper Mobius but longer wait from China] (http://www.banggood.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-HD-Mini-Sports-Camera-Wide-Angle-Edition-p-917817.html) I wanted the Wide Angle Lens for a better shot

Capacitor You don't want the battery sitting in the sun. A capacitor can handle it. So you replace the battery completely with this capacitor

Windshield Mount My mobius came with a mounting bracket that fits on this mount. The mount itself is very small, but the 3M sticker is very strong.

Hardwire Kit When hard wiring this in to the car via fuse box, this knocks the voltage down from 12v to 5v, which is what the camera needs. I used some wire strippers to expose about 5" of the red and black cables. Then stripped about an inch off each cable to expose the actual wire. The red wire goes in to the add-a-circuit mentioned below, then you crimp it closed with pliers (wasn't super easy, I must be weak). You partially unscrew a metal bolt that is attached to the metal car frame as a ground ( I used the one on top of my fuse box).

USB to Mini-USB This connects from the hardwire kit to the camera or 90 degree elbow mentioned next, for a better angle. If you are setting up the auto record when external power is on, which is what you want to do for a dash cam, you need to cut a piece of electrical tape width-wise and cover the two middle pins inside the USB cable. This is because the two middle pins (2 and 3) are data pins. Leaving those exposed makes the camera think its connected to a computer and will only do data transferring. By covering them, it only get power from pins 1 and 4 and doesn't think it's connected to a computer and will actually record.

Right Angle Mini-USB to Mini-USB Adapted This just helped keep the USB cable from sticking out too much (better angle)

Add-a-circuit This is the ATO (bigger fuse), but I ended up using the ATM (Mini) because my car has both and the fuse I wanted to use ended up being a Mini. It'd be best to look through your fuse diagram and find something non-vital (meaning don't tap in to a fuse that controls ABS or airbags, etc) and switchable (meaning it only comes on when the car turns on. You don't want the camera running 24/7), figure out what type of fuse it is, and buy that size. I ended up getting my new add-a-circuit (Littlefuse) from Oreilly auto parts for $6.99 and it came with 3, 4, 7.5, and 10A fuses. Also take note of the amperage (Never use a higher amp fuse than your add-a-circuit supports because the wire gauge may not support it and melt/burn. When adding the circuit, I removed the original fuse from the fuse box, a 10A fuse and put it the first slot(my add-a-circuit supports up to 10A) and for the 2nd slot, I used a 3A fuse because the camera and radar don't draw much. You don't want to use a higher amp fuse than necessary. Also, in my car 2011 JettaSportwagen, the add-a-circuit points down or it doesn't work. Make sure it's plugged in the correct direction or it won't do anything

32GB MicroSD Card Works fine, just make sure to format it through the camera.

Unofficial but awesome Mobius Configuration Tool Use the tooltips(hover over each option) to figure out what each things does. I set mine to autorecord when external power or the button are pushed.


You can find a lot of info here: dashcamtalk.com


To summarize the connections are:

Choose a fuse from your car's fuse diagram (non-essential and switchable), pull it, place it in the correct slot of the add-a-circuit (don't go to higher amps than is supported), plug in a fuse from the add-a-circuit kit in to the other slot to protect your camera (I used a 3A), strip the hardwire kit's cables mentioned above, put the red cable (+) from the hard wire kit in the the red end of the add-a-circuit and crimp it closed, attach the black cable (-) to a screw attached to the metal car frame, tape the two middle pins (2 and 3) in the USB cable with electrical tape, plug the USB in to the female USB on the hardwire kit, run the USB cable from the fuse box around the edges of your cars trim, up by the rearview mirror, attach the right-angle mini-usb adapter, choose where you want to mount the camera (make sure to check using the USB plugged in and camera mounted to the mount, in case it bumps the rearview mirror) (I held it on the windshield about where I thought I wanted it (to behind and to the right of the rearview mirror and took some test footage, watched it on a computer, decided it looked ok, pulled the sticker cover and attached it), clean your windshield with glass cleaner, attach the mount.

Get one of these and run a new wire. No need to splice into existing OEM wire harnesses that cost a fortune to replace.

I wouldn't recommend tieing into anything after the fuse since it could overload that circuit and blow it (I doubt it will happen, but it could).

You can buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ and make it a new circuit with it's own fuse.

Hope that helps.

Hey, I was wondering if it would be possible to use an adapter that turns one fuse into two rather than splicing the cable?

If not, do you think something like this would work?

Also, is this what you mean by testing light?

If any of these parts aren't correct, could you send me amazon links for the correct parts because I'm trying to use up my gift cards.

I really appreciate your help and I'll try to order the right parts as soon as I get the O.K. from you.

I don't know what the grommet looks like through the firewall, but if there's room, you may try using a piece of safety wire or similar and pushing it through next to the wire loom, then make a loop on the end and pull your wire back through. That's what I've done in the past for similar applications.

For the fuse and ground, I know that many people have used Add-A-Circuit kits for this sort of thing. They sell them on Amazon or at any auto parts store. That's probably your best bet. I much prefer not to have to cut and splice factory wiring whenever possible.

I couldn't answer all your questions, but I hope that's at least a start. You may want to head over to MSF and see what others have done. Here's a thread for a similar install that I found after a quick search. Looks like OP used the hole for the hood release cable through the firewall and tapped into the BPV line for the pressure reading.

So something like this? And then just strip the end of the wire for the dash cam and connect it to that?

A power inverter is what you'll need. As for wiring it in, perhaps something like this will help. You could just find a circuit that comes on with the key (radio circuit usually) to plug that into. However, that wire does seem a little too thin to run an inverter..