Reddit reviews Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White
We found 73 Reddit comments about Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
For use with 300 Watts of Halogen or Incandescent Bulbs (for LED version, please see TTCL 100H WH)Dims table and floor lamps to suit any activityEasy plug in installation; no wiring requiredEasy slide operation allows you to adjust lights to desired levelCord included with product is 6 feet longIncludes (1) Credenza plug in dimmer
Problem Solved
I wouldn't use a magic wand with out this.
Add a dimmer switch, and she can control how powerul the vibrations are.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1522694221&sr=1-3&keywords=dimmer&dpID=41gCDoU%252BjoL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Pro tip get a light dimmer switch so you can control the speed. You think me later :p
Amazonlink
And one of these. The wands can be fierce for some.
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-In-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6
My Lighting setup:
The best tip I have about the Wand (no matter how you use it) is to attach it to a dimmer cord. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523382674&sr=8-3
There are only two settings on a Wand. Strong and STRONGER. With the dimmer, you can take it from zero to STRONGER.
Ok, here's a little secret. Most larger motors such as those in fans and vibrating massagers are powered by alternating current, AC not DC like computer fans etc... Soo you can swing by your local hardware store or online and pick up a lamp dimmer which can lower the AC going to whatever is plugged in, effectively giving you (almost) complete control over the level of vibration you desire.
Edit: here's an example of something that should work well http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-In-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367919378&sr=8-2&keywords=dimmer
As a relaxing part of the pregame ritual, get a mink glove, put the wand inside it, and then proceed with the all over body massage. Then when you're ready to level up, add this and this. Definite winners!
My wife uses this to slow down the motor to her liking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Pzf0AbGXVVMKB
Ball python breeding veteran here with 10 years of breeding and raising hatchlings under my belt, also a registered veterinary technician.
First problem: I noticed you talking about fuzzies/pinkies, but no mention of what actual animal you're talking about. Mice or rats? They are not interchangeable and are worlds apart in a ball python's eyes. I attempt to start all my hatchlings on live rat pups, pinkies are too small. Those that take rats right off the bat are the best, strongest and fastest growing ones. After offering rats a few times with no luck I offer a live African soft fur hopper, most picky eaters will take that. Any still holding out then get offered a live mouse hopper, usually they'll take the mouse. I can't stress enough you need to be feeding live for the first few months of the hatchlings life. Rats are absolutely the most preferred feeder for balls, mice are just no good in the long run, but a live hopper mouse has much more of a scent for the snake to key in on than a rat pup of the same size, so young hatchling balls often take mice more readily when they're getting started.
Second problem: you mentioned it had a heat pad. That's good. That's what you want, no stupid heat lamps or heat rocks. However the heat pad MUST MUST MUST be controlled by a thermostat or rheostat. You cannot just plug them into the wall and slap em on the tank and go on your merry way no matter what the kid at the pet store said. You must be able to accurately measure the temperature of the pad. I'm talking a digital thermometer, no stick on dials or stick on aquarium thermometers. You want a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer with a probe that you can stick directly to the glass where the heat pad is and measure it, you should be aiming for 88-92F on the hot side and 77-80 cool side. If you can't afford a reptile thermostat, go to the hardware store and get a lamp dimmer (rheostat) and plug your heat pad into that, then regulate the temperature to what you need with the help of your digital thermometer. If the pad is plugged right into the wall it's likely far too hot and could be stressing out the snake.
Third problem (this is the big one, the main problem likely causing your issue): Feeding in a separate enclosure. No no no no no no no no no no. Just don't. This is complete misinformation and is the most prevalent lie in herpetoculture today. The logic that somehow doing this makes the snake less cage aggressive or not associate their cage with food is completely insane. Just plain bullshit. What this practice does do however, is terrify the snake, stress it out, and snap it out of any potential feeding mode and put it into defensive/aggressive/survival mode. If you are lucky enough to get a hatchling ball to eat with this configuration, it's a great way to get yourself bitten and stress the snake out even further when trying to move the snake back into their normal enclosure.
My advice to you is to ensure your temperatures and enclosure are spot on, and leave a live mouse hopper in your snakes tank overnight. You should have success. Feed once per week. Repeat this for a few weeks then switch to live rat pups. Do this for several months, then when the snake is around 3-400g feel free to try switching to frozen/thawed rat weanlings. Any more questions feel free to ask.
Yep, here are some online options:
http://amzn.com/B001TJ6MWQ
http://amzn.com/B0000BYEF6
I can vouch for the second one, even though it's not "for" a magic wand.
Top budget thermostat
jumpstart
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S
and most popular light dimmer switch
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6
Jumpstart is best for the UTH (under tank heater) and dimmer works well for the overhead heat to control the temp. ceramic heat emitters (CHE) are recommended as they do not produce light at all and can be kept on 24/7
Both need thermometers or IR temp gun to verify surface temperature.
Excellent temp and humidity sensor. External probe goes in tank and is wireless
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M252EWA
Get rid of that stick on thermometer. Once your snake gets big enough it will rip that right off
My girlfriend uses this one. It's a little bit cheaper if that makes a difference.
Lutron TT-300H-WH Electronics Plug-In Lamp Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JwALzbRAX4NZA
Sorry I don't know how to shorten links
Some people rightly think the levels are too intense. A simple lamp dimmer made all the difference for my wife.
Yes it is. It is made all the more awesome if you buy some attachments and a lamp dimmer to use with it as the dimmer allows you to get more control over the vibe's speed and get lower settings. I've had quite a few vibes in my day and the magic wand blew my old favorite out of the water when I bought it. I think I've gone back to my old favorite once or twice in the year since I bought the wand.
I'm a former electrician so I get nervous when beginners work around stuff that can be at dangerous voltages.
With the high end LED drivers the outputs should be isolated from ground (this is not true of LED light bulbs and may not be true for cheap drivers). If it is isolated then the danger lessens to the point where it is the hand to hand shock that you need to watch out for.
DC causes muscles to contract rather than just paralyze them at above around 20mA or so. Imagine what a prolonged shock across your heart, which is a muscle, can do. Electrical stuff above about 60 volts that is going to be exposed should have proper ingress protection. You can do this such as putting a bit of epoxy on the solder joints if they are exposed.
I like to say make your stuff toddler proof. If a two year old can get in there and get injured then you need to modify your design such as using a lower voltage. The diaelectric breakdown voltage of skin is about 40 volts if you don't have callouses.
Run the LEDs at 1.2 amps and then dim to lower the current as needed. The next lower size driver is the 1050mA version at 63 volts open voltage and 57 volts max control voltage. Much safer!
A mistake I made- the 500mA version is capable of 118 volts DC, not 108.
edit- you can also use a dimmer/cord so you don't have to mess as much with the line voltage side as much. Ones like this should only be used with the Mean Well drivers in a plastic case.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6
Here you go. Throw in one of these and you got yourself a party.
edit: sorry I did not see the price range you wanted to stay within. May I recommend this
Our experiences with attachments has been "meh".
But, one thing that might help is if you get a dimmer for it to plug into like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_DEYrzbHV94QRS
The hitachi only has two speeds, this allows for some versatility depending on sensitivity.
You need to get one of these to plug it into if you don't have one yet.
A dimmer switch plug - it makes the thing so much more fun.
(2 speeds? Screw that.)
Husbandry corrections : Rats contain more nutrition and are generally larger, so it's easier to feed one rat then several mice to an adult snake. I also advise you against using a feeding box because you'll have trouble getting a young ball python to eat in one. Humidity, I generally keep mine at 55-60 with nothing over 65 unless it's right after I've misted. Obviously still misting more during shed cycles.
As far as glass vs plastic, even aquariums are fine as long as you set it up right, it's just a bit harder to set up then a sub or vivarium. I've housed balls in aquariums for temp. homes before and had no trouble, just by using tinfoil and an IR bulb, putting paper on the sides helps them out also.
The only thing on your list for the setup, I'd say just use an IR bulb 24/7 instead of the daylight/moonlight because you don't need UV, just heat. I also recommend picking up a lamp dimmer, because bulbs are generally meant to be used as a hotspot heat source, so they average around 85-90 degrees right under, you want this for the cool side, so you want it under 82. You'll also need a thermostat, my recommended brand is vivarium electronics, and my recommended model is the VE-100, it's a simple on/off thermostat, so it heats the probe up to the desired temperature, turns off, and then turns back on when it reaches the desired temperature.
[lamp dimmer on amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-In-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405208514&sr=8-1&keywords=lamp+dimmer)
First off: Sorry about the length of the post. I didn't intend to write a novel, but it ended up that way anyway.
My honest opinion: You have all the best stuff out there that I'm aware of. The Revo 2 is probably the best thing I've ever bought (again, personal opinion), but I'll throw in my two cents on everything else I have.
Stronic Zwei: Definitely different, but the design makes it difficult to keep in. It's pretty large, coming in at about 2" girth at the knot. If you're anything like me, you'll find two or three pulsation settings on it that you like and never use any of the others. The only advantage you'll get here over the Revo 2 is that this thing will pulsate faster than the head on the Revo 2 rotates.
Hitachi: The best vibe I've ever owned. Be cautious of getting fakes, because the market is littered with them. I have an authentic magic wand, and I've owned it for about 4 years now with no problems. It's intense, so much so that I'd recommend you use put some cloth (a towel, or an old shirt, or maybe even a sock) between yourself and the head else you risk hurting yourself. Don't pay 40-50 dollars for a speed controller "designed" for the wand, because they tend to be hit or miss. Go with this instead. I own it, some reviewers even state they only got it for the Hitachi, and better yet, it's about $10. Can't lose there. I wouldn't really recommend the Hummingbird though, it's not that great. You're better off just putting it against your penis - the vibrations are strong enough that it'll massage the whole thing without the sleeve.
Fleshlight/Shower Mount: Shower mount is pretty nifty. I like it. The Lotus texture is pretty great, so if you pick up another sleeve maybe try that or Mini-Lotus. Also, Destroya/Flight Pilot's texture looks very intense, and it's one I'd like to try at some point, so maybe consider that one too.
Pulse/Cobra Libre: I have a Pulse, and it's a nifty toy. The problem is that my penis is very used to the Hitachi, and while the Pulse does have some very deep-penetrating vibrations, even on the highest setting it just doesn't stack up to the Hitachi. I still love the Pulse for its design and the idea of it, but there's a distinct chance that you'll enjoy it much more than I do simply because you don't have a Hitachi. For the Cobra Libre, make sure you pick up the Cobra Libre 2 instead of the original. While I don't have either, the reviews seem to be pretty unanimous that the touch controls on the original were very finicky and the settings would often change on their own or that it would turn on or off by itself. The 2 has the same button controls that the pulsators do. As with the Pulse, I think the Cobra Libre/2 is a really awesome toy from a design aspect, but I don't have one because I worry that the Hitachi has ruined me.
As far as the Leisure and the Billy, I have never used those, so I can't comment. You do own all of my favorite toys (except the Hitachi), though, and honestly since getting the Pure Wand and Revo 2 I've retired almost half of my collection. That aside, though, I hope some of this information will prove useful to you. And sorry about the length of the post.
Yeah gotta say the Hitachi Magic Wand will make any woman orgasm. Also buy a lamp dimmer off of Amazon. I bought an official Hitachi for my wife and a dimmer for when the Wand gets too potent(after her first orgasm her clit becomes too sensitive). This is the one I ordered for her.
Lutron TT-300H-WH Electronics Plug-In Lamp Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_9v66wbWBNFGV0
The Wand has become her quickie solo tool, she uses it through her clothes when the kids are home and she needs a quick orgasm.
I don't see anything wrong with going to a 150watt. I'd put it on a dimmer switch and leave it on 24/7 I'll provide a link to the dimmer switch I use.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=asc_df_B0000BYEF6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140365824&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18014005222701112064&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016510&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-274342005344&psc=1
You can't wire a receptacle to a rheostat. You'd use a plug-in lamp dimmer like this or this. Those are very basic ones. There are also remote controlled ones available.
My wife prefers it when we use this with the Hitachai:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000BYEF6/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
She builds with the switch at the lowest setting then ramps up, backing off then working her way back up when she feels ready. Much better then just two settings.
Here are a few things I have on my list that I don't see on yours. I put Amazon links just as examples even though you'll be going to stores.
Ha! No idea how I messed that up. I fixed the link. It's this one.
> Regarding the heat mat, this is something that we have underneath the bottom glass of his viv, with a layer of felt on top of the glass so he doesn’t have direct contact with any of the heat elements.
Well, looks like I've got egg on my face then! Okay, way less concerning but!
>We live in the north of England, do you think it would be fine to take away the heat mat during the night and him have no heat source, or could you suggest an alternative?
Heat matters, and you are on the right course with paying attention for nighttime heating matters! If your house drops under 19C at any time, then supplemental heat is a requirement! 19C isn't some magical "they will die" number, but it gives them a nice healthy minimum safe range, below which we can have problems!
The issue then, comes with how we give them this heat. Bearded Dragons are hard wired little lovable scalebabies. They do things because they are programmed to. For instance, light == warmth to them. If they are cold, they will go to sources of light (thus why heat lamps are great! And making sure your UV tube runs along next to it gets you double the benefit!). Likewise, if they are hot, they will avoid light, and go down. They will seek out the lowest point they can, to beat the heat.
See how that might be a problem? If the primary source of heat at night is under his tank, his brain doesn't understand how to cope and he will drive himself to the least comfortable place he can. Woops!!
What you really want to offer to keep him over 19C at night is something like this. Ceramic Heat Emitters screw into a normal light socket, so you can treat it just like your already existing heat lamp. The plus here, is that they produce zero visible light. This means that it's fine to use at night, as it wont disrupt their sleep!
It's not a replacement for your basking lamp (once again, that light helps drive good behavior and lets him become comfortable!). But it's an awesome addition to a vivarium when your house cannot provide safe temperatures on it's own!
Buy one, get yourself a fixture to mount it around the middle of his tank to keep everything safe at night, and slap that puppy on a timer! If you are worried about getting things just right, you can over buy the wattage on the bulb, and then use something like this to tune it just perfect for your baby!
Again, Y wish you all the best luck in figuring out what's wrong here. I hope it's some environmental thing that you can identify and correct with this dude! It sucks when we mess up, but it's so nice when we get to fix it!!!
Ok then I suggest something like this http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug--Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1367529013&sr=1-1&keywords=dimmer+switch
It is a 110v voltage regulator (they call it a dimmer switch) Plug it in to the wall and the wand in to it then you have a variable speed vibrator instead of just the High and low settings, it can be a lot of fun for teasing and foreplay with out bringing her/you to orgasm
just understand, it has 2 speeds. high and OMG you can get a dimmer like this one to give you more control http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-In-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=pd_sim_hpc_1
/u/puckout, get one of these so you can completely adjust the intensity of the Hitachi. It is very powerful.
I'm very new to lighting and your post has convinced me to get two 2ft T8 Quasars (the $45 ones) and some gels to begin experimenting, so thank you for that!
Two quick questions: When you say dimmer, would something like this suffice? Also, would I need to buy one dimmer for each Quasar? I plan on just gaff tapping each of them to walls/surfaces as need be. Also, do I need to buy an external cable of sorts that's long enough to connect the Quasar to an outlet? Or will a dimmer (like the one I linked for example) be enough for that?
Apologies if these are dumb questions but I've tried finding this info online but can't find any concrete answers.
It's the same way for me, honestly. My doctor thinks it's a combination of the ssri and dysphoria. I have been on various SSRIs for years without issue though, so I don't know, I think a lot of it is mental for me. In my case the dimmer helps a lot. I found one pretty cheap on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JhDDub1BHQ664
I'm assuming the cool side of your snake's enclosure is "room temperature" for the room he's in?
That being said, you have two options. The first is to use a low-wattage nighttime heat bulb, a lamp designed for hot bulbs, and a cheap table lamp dimmer (http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-In-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6). Since you use a tub, you'll also need some form of stand to hang/clamp the lamp onto so that it won't be too close to the lid of the tub (the lamp will burn through the plastic). Aim the lamp towards the middle of the tank, slightly closer to the warm side. Carefully monitor your temps, and use the dimmer to raise/lower the lamp as needed. The downside to using a lamp for ambient temperature is that it may lower your humidity a bit, so you might need to dampen your substrate or keep damp sphagnum moss under your snake's hides.
You can also side-mount and insulate an additional UTH. Purchase a heater larger than what you need for your tub. Mount the heater on the SIDE of your tub, though still along the bottom-portion. (The goal is to raise the ambient temperature at the bottom of the tub where the snake is.) If the heater doesn't cover the entire side of the tub, mount it towards the warm side. Purchase some .5-.75 inch thick foam board insulation from the hardware store (usually under $10 for a big sheet). Cut the foam to fit the side of the tub with the heater. Tape the foam into place. Note that side-mounting with insulation works best with high-end heaters like Ultratherms, though I've seen people side-mount ZooMed heaters with success. You may need to use a lamp dimmer to raise/lower the temperature of the side-mounted heat pad as needed.
In my personal opinion I would try and go more towards tungsten lighting, really cheap, good color, and very reliable. You need to shoot around what you have, so that means if you're going to do anything at night you can't show big spaces. Try some china balls and clip lights. Then get a bunch of light bulbs, dimmers, and diffusion. The diffusion I listed in sort of middle of the road, not too heavy, not too light. You could do great night interior work with just this. Night exterior might be possible, but you have to plan a lot around existing lighting.
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https://www.amazon.com/8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-Dawson-Bros/dp/B071WJPWL2/ref=asc_df_B071WJPWL2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198068910902&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10150620353935443755&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031204&hvtargid=pla-352850301737&psc=1
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https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=asc_df_B0000BYEF6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140365824&hvpos=1o9&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8666904966532857364&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031204&hvtargid=pla-274342005344&psc=1
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Hi. It actually took a while to come up with the right phrases to search to find what you're looking for because "Hand Squeezer" only results in page after page of workout balls, but I eventually got what I think you'll want.
First of all there are Variacs which are industry standard, heavy duty dimming units. These are great if you're plugging in Lekos, parcans, or multiple practical globes up to 1200 watts (they make a 2000 watt unit as well,) however they're quite expensive. EDIT: After glancing over the specs for the 1k variac I remembered this can boost the voltage from line voltage (120) to 140. This can ruin your lights but can be useful in situations where you know a light can handle it, or I imagine if you've got to run a shit to of stingers for some reason and need to boost the voltage to get down the line.
Next are what we call Hand Squeezers, they're the variacs little brother. Lighter, easier to carry around or conceal if you're using them to power practicals, and much cheaper than a variac. I believe they make 2000 watt units for these too, but I haven't done much research on the difference between squeezers and variacs (I believe one simply limits the voltage whereas the other achieves dimming through different means, but I could be totally wrong.) These work in almost every situation the variac can work in AFAIK.
Lastly there's the consumer option. I think this will work perfectly for your needs. Although it only maxes out at 300 watts, you can still cube tap three of your 100w lights together to dim them all at the same time. I've never personally used one of these but my gaffer keeps a couple in our set cart under the hand squeezers so I imagine they're fine for small wattage fixtures. You could probably even pick some up from home depot or lowes if you want to shop around.
Hope this helps!
**TL;DR: AC Dimmer
Try getting a plug in dimmer. They're inexpensive and very useful. I used one when I realized my light was making the basking spot too hot.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=asc_df_B0000BYEF6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140365824&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9496189148103381231&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009900&hvtargid=aud-801738734305:pla-274342005344&psc=1
The same product listing on Amazon (including the exact same number of reviews) can not be sold by Amazon directly, or have multiple sellers and when you add it to your cart it automatically picks the seller with the lowest price, even if it's not Amazon and the alternate seller has relatively poor seller reviews. When buying from Amazon either make sure it says "Ships and sold by Amazon.com" just under where it says "In Stock" in green text, or if it's a 3rd party seller that you read that seller's reviews. Most relatively expensive products should have a serial number which you can try to verify with the manufacturer.
The dial you saw on the other model allows you to decrease the power to the device, which in turn decreases how often it sends a vibration. Basically the magic wand fills a capacitor, and when it's full it releases that energy into a motor which causes the vibration. If you feed it less power, it vibrates less often, but the power switch on the device only has two settings, both of which are fairly intense.
If you want to try this, the good news is you don't need the other model which has the dimmer/dial built in. You can buy this and plug it in between the wand and the wall socket; you'll then be able to have continuously variable frequency of vibration, but it doesn't affect the intensity of each vibration.
I've heard you can use a dimmer switch on the power cord.
A search shows this and this on Amazon.
Regarding vibes that plug in to the wall, particularly stronger ones like the Hitachi Magic Wand; do yourself a favor and buy a lamp dimmer switch with it. This minor modification will turn your vibe into an infinitely adjustable one, so you can fine-tune exactly how strong you want the sensation to be, and even adjust it throughout your session if you like the intensity to increase as you approach orgasm or decrease between multiple orgasms, e.g.
Could I use something like this to get the same effect?
We have this dimmer. Works great. Also, get some attachments.
Your ball python is nocturnal, you don't need to light it up. Light will not only stress your snake out but eat away at your humidity. There is ZERO reason to add lights to your enclosure. Check out Ceramic Heat Emitters. They produce heat, but do not produce humidity eating stress inducing light. I have CHE's on both my enclosures. The day light that fills my office is enough "day and night cycle" as some people seem to think it's needed.
Check out CHEs. They produce heat, but no light. http://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00IOBZT80/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462043496&sr=1-4&keywords=ceramic+heat+emitter
You'll want to plug this into a lamp dimmer, cheap but very important. The dimmer will allow you to control the temp of your CHE. http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug--Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462043561&sr=8-1&keywords=lamp+dimmer
This is a much much better alternative to a heat bulb, the red and the black lights are also not needed. Your CHE can stay on all the time, just make sure you have accurate digital humidity and temp gauges so you can keep things steady.
Your humidity should be at 55-65%, cool side 80-82, ambient 84-86, and warm side 88-90. If you're using a tank, blocking out three sides with black poster board or anything like that will help make your snake feel more secure and help insulate it a little. If you have a screen lid, using aluminum tape on top of the lid spare where the CHE in it's hood sits will help insulate heat and humidity inside the tank a bit.
Alright! So that fixture itself isn't bad, but the UVB bulb that is in there probably isn't great. There is a bunch of research that suggests those coil style UVB bulbs aren't great for our beardies and don't cover the tank in enough UV. This hood is what we use along with this bulb. This light should be on during the day and turned off at night. General consensus is at least 12 hours on. That hood may come with a bulb already, but if it does, it's probably the 5.0 which isn't strong enough for bearded dragons. That why I gave the link to the 10.0 version. This bulb should be replaced once a year even if still illuminates, as the capacity to produce UV diminishes after about a year.
The other thing in the fixture may be a CHE (ceramic heat emitter). If it just generates heat but no light, then that is what that is. You really only need that if the tank temperature drops below 75-70 degrees F. Make sure not to use any red or any lights at night as bearded dragons can see color and it will disrupt their sleeping.
Finally, it sounds like you don't have a basking light. Even though your house stays pretty warm, beardies still need a basking spot of around 105 degrees F. In the now empty spot where your old UVB bulb was, you can use one of these. Some people just use flood lights from Home Depot or elsewhere, just make sure it's not an LED one. You can use this light dimmer to control the light output to get the basking spot to the correct temperature. I would recommend this infrared temperature gun to check for the correct temperatures during the day and at night.
Lighting is one of the biggest things for bearded dragons and can take some time to get set up correctly. It's good to ask questions and research! I still learn new things about beardies all the time. I'll get pictures of our setup tomorrow and show you. I would tonight, but our babies are already sleeping!
One last thought, as some others have said, if you have an exotic vet nearby, it certainly wouldn't hurt to have Ember checked over. They can check for parasites or other issues before they become a problem.
Glad you got one of the good ones; the original manufacturer closed up shop in 2012 and apparently the ones sold since then are hit or miss.
FYI, if you ever find it too strong and want to decrease the intensity, you can plug it into a dimmer switch such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/
Don't know what to tell you about the noise or the numbness, though - those are par for the course. Have fun and don't set your bed on fire ;D
I bought one for my SO about five years ago. It's gotten a lot of use and a lot of love.
I would recommend picking up a speed controller. Amazon bundles one on their site that looks like a very techy thing. That's all well and good, but if you want something non-descript and something that you can leave out when not in use... Get the Lutron Dimmer Switch instead. Works really well, you can buy it at local retailers (Lowes) for like $8.
I have not used/purchased the Shibari Halo, so I can't comment on quality, but the build is nearly identical and really, you're not going to be using that on her for more than an hour or so at a time.
I bought a micro-wand for the SO back in 2011 that's wireless and it packs a kick, so you really probably won't be disappointed with whatever you choose.
Oh, buy one already. At this rate, you won't have it until Monday if you're ordering off of Amazon, so you just lost out on a weekend full of your SO having orgasms, buddy. You'll thank me next weekend.
If you can order with Saturday delivery, friggin order one now. :)
http://amzn.com/B0000BYEF6
I'll let you know tomorrow...giving one to the wife for an early Christmas present. I also got her this, which will make the intensity much more variable than just high and really freaking high.
Don't forget to get a dimmer switch extension cord so you can control the power and sound coming from it, it can be quite loud.
You can actually buy this thing for dimming lamps that turns it into a variable speed and works fricken awesome! It's a small box with a dial on it that you plug into the wall, and then plug the wand into the dimmer and away you go! You just turn the wand on high and leave it, and then the dimmer switch becomes the on/off/speed control. I got my wife one years ago, I think they're like $15 on Amazon.
Edit: 😁
https://ericalbert.com/2012/12/02/making-your-vibrator-really-hum/
https://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B0000BYEF6/
If you get a new UTH, maybe a more powerful one, you can get a lamp dimmer like this one. That, along with a thermometer inside the tank, will let you control the heat accurately and pretty easily. It's what I use for my UTH.
If you still need a little more for the ambient air temp, you can get a red bulb and a clamp lamp for fairly cheap. This one comes with a dimmer for the bulb.
These guys with Dimmer Cords will do the trick.
a plug-in dimmer will help
Maybe this?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000BYEF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it's designed to control lamps, but is useful for controlling speed of other uhm.. plug-in, motorized, devices... heh.
I completely disagree. As a matter of fact it has been recommended by many others before me all the time due to the high speeds of the 2 speed Hitachi.
This is very similar to what I have seen recommended over and over.
I am sure its not GREAT on the unit, but it beats the HELL out of paying 60 bux for it and leaving it to sit in a nightstand unused.
This one works great.
Lutron TT-300H-WH Electronics Plug-In Lamp Dimmer, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lE9lybARQNG71
I just got one in the mail this weekend to build a second stir plate.
Try using the dimmer switch. I have a lamp dimmer and it works great for controlling fan speed. This is the one I use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_08StybJ8DQ98X
Yeah it can be pretty brutal if you're not prepared. Something like this is what you want but I'd do some research personally to find one that works well with the Hitachi. The one I have for example doesn't work perfectly (the dimming does weird things which I think has to do with the vibration/current frequency but I digress) but does the job well enough so it's not the end of the world.
I've heard of some having success hooking up to a simple dimmer to reduce heat enough that the lamp can be run for longer times without over heating. Have not tried it myself yet though.
I also have same problem for my track lights. This is the only option I found for me if you need smart dimmable plug.
Lutron Caseta dimmable plug
There are bunch of manual dimmable plug as well if you are looking for cheap option.
Lutron Dumb dimmable plug
I use the word Edison for incandescent lights too! Anyway, simple dimmers work great on those. Would this do? https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1497088085&sr=1-3&keywords=dimmer+switch
Hey there. I hope I can help. I'm kinda a nerd about sex toys. First I have a great site for you to check out for toys. It's my favorite to check reviews and such. It's Smitten Kitten. It is a woman owned, feminist sex store. All their products are safe for the body, and they have all kinds of things. As far as prostrate massages go I would try this. It's a toy from Aneros designed just for the prostrate. That should help with working on the "hands free" orgasm. I would also look into getting a dildo as well. This is the one I'm looking at. Yes it is expensive, but it is really fun and really well made. As far as the Magic Wand goes, as some have said it is amazing, and I agree. For me, I do use it on my penis, but like it is a very awesome clit. It is really fun. I would approach it from that direction because of your dysphoria. Also as ImKira recommends, having panties on could help with the dysphoria, but it will also cut the intensity back. One of the main compalaints of the Magic Wand is that it has two settings, "Oh my god" and "Time to take a wall out." A inline dimmer switch can help with that. I love that on Amazon that the dimmer is listed as bought together with the Magic Wand. Again I hope this helps.
You can easily control the power with a light dimmer. There should be one built in, or you can buy one separately like this.
Having said that, the kit that ohokay showed could probably be found easily and cheaply from China/Hong Kong on eBay. Having manfrotto level build quality is not that necessary for this sort of simple lighting solution.
Get this.
You can buy rheostats from ZooMed to control the temp of your heating pad. I use a few of those, but I recently bought a little [dimmer switch][http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-In-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410720721&sr=8-1] device off Amazon that does the same thing.
(warning: the related products will make you embarrassed to buy it).
Whichever you pick, make sure you check the temps with a thermometer. If you're ordering off Amazon anyway, you can get some really cheap digital ones.
Since everyone is asking, here is a complete list of everything you would need from amazon.com to complete a copy of this project ...
Other items/tools
Thank you for your expertise! I'm somewhat familiar with splicing wires so I'm going to give that a shot. I have a feeling this might be a dimmable lamp so would I need something like this to control the light?
Tissue paper? Works really good!
You can also get light dimmer switches to adjust the light better and get some awesome results.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=asc_df_B0000BYEF65369703/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B0000BYEF6&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140365824&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17864215729681517863&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032862&hvtargid=pla-274342005344
You can tape it down, but be sure you use a tape that isn't too sticky. If the tape comes up for any reason, you don't want it to create a hazardous sticky trap for your gecko. I've never done it, but another user mentioned hot glue--that sounds like a pretty good idea!
If the temperature in your room is constant to within a few degrees, you could use a lamp dimmer instead of a thermostat. Set the dimmer fairly low, and use a temp gun to measure the floor temp as you increase the dimmer setting. You'll want to verify the temps regularly for the first few days, and periodically thereafter.
Both methods have pros and cons. The dimmer requires you to periodically check the temperature as your room temps change, or as your heat mat ages. The thermostat doesn't require much maintenence, but a dislodged probe can create unsafe temperatures for your animal.
I have some geckos on dimmers, and some on thermostats. It's great that you're aware of the potential problems.
Hitachi wands became famous because it's basically the strongest vibrator on the market. Some women (both cis and trans) need that power, but many can't handle it. It took us a bit of trial and error to find a vibe that worked well for my wife. We finally landed on the We-Vibe, but it doesn't really work for those of us with outies.
If you can't afford to go toy shopping, start by grabbing a wand speed controller (or if that's still too expensive, try a dimmer switch). This will let you slow the wand down so it's more rhythmic than hammering.
If you CAN afford to go toy shopping, Oh Joy Sex Toy is every girls best friend.
Turn it down with this thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/
And this.