Reddit Reddit reviews Lyman 49th Edition Reloading Handbook

We found 22 Reddit comments about Lyman 49th Edition Reloading Handbook. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Lyman 49th Edition Reloading Handbook
soft cover version of the Lyman reloading handbookrecipes for all your reloads
Check price on Amazon

22 Reddit comments about Lyman 49th Edition Reloading Handbook:

u/Oberoni · 9 pointsr/reloading

I would start with the Lyman 49th Edition and The ABCs of Reloading manuals. They give you a detailed break down of the reloading process and talk about different types of equipment. After you've read the manuals I recommend really thinking about if you are a good fit for reloading. While reloading can be a very rewarding hobby, it is a very serious hobby. You can end up severely hurt or even killed if you make a mistake. Being able to concentrate for long periods and be very exacting in the details are important. Not trying to scare you off, just reminding you that bullets are little explosions going off in your hands/near your face. Mistakes can turn a little explosion into a big one.

I also made a post about equipment here, but it isn't a replacement for a good manual.

Why are you interested in reloading? Looking to save money? Increase accuracy? Just because it looks interesting? Either way I recommend you read this post on the economics of reloading.

What are you looking to reload? Rifle? Pistol? Shotgun? What are your time, space, and budget constraints? Knowing this we can help you pick equipment to fit your needs. Overall the basics are:

Manual
Scale
Calipers
Press
Dies(Sizing/Decap, Expanding, Seating)
Shell Plate
and probably a chamfer/deburr tool

There are different levels of each of these so knowing what your requirements are will help determine which level you should be looking at.

u/InboxZero · 7 pointsr/guns

If you haven't already check out the FAQ on /r/reloading. They've got a ton of resources. This book is usually referenced as a good starting point.

u/01001000 · 5 pointsr/reloading

Lyman 49th Edition Reloading Handbook lightning deal goes live at 10:40AM PST.

u/langhorn · 4 pointsr/reloading
u/farkdog · 4 pointsr/reloading

What kind of ammo are you looking to reload? Straight-wall ammo, like most pistol calibers, is slightly easier to reload.

You can get into reloading for about $300-$500.

Here is what you will need:

  1. A reloading manual. This is a book of known good "recipes" for making cartridges for different kinds of powder and bullets. $19.99.
  2. A way to deprime spent brass (remove used primers).
  3. A set of dies. These resize the brass to correct dimensions, seat the bullet, and crimp the cartridge.
  4. Bullets.
  5. Brass.
  6. Primers.
  7. Powder.
  8. A scale for measuring powder $29.57.
  9. A bullet puller. This allows you to rework screwed-up cartridges $12.99.
  10. A press of some kind to run your cartridges through your dies.

    Before you get started, I highly recommend you read the book, "The ABC's of Reloading":

    http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/0896896099/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381839707&sr=8-2&keywords=abc%27s+of+reloading

    You can check it out at a library if you want to save money. This book covers all kinds of reloading from pistol to rifle to shotgun cartridges.

    If you are going to reload any kind of necked cartridge, like most rifle cartridges and some pistol cartridges, these cases stretch in length when firing due to the force being applied to the neck along the axis of the cartridge. As such they have to be trimmed back to proper length prior to reloading. This requires a case trimmer. You will generally not need a case trimmer for straight-walled cartridges.

    Reloading basically follows these steps:

  11. Deprime the brass.
  12. Resize external dimensions of brass.
  13. Bell case mouth to accept new bullet.
  14. Press in new primer.
  15. Charge cartridge with powder.
  16. Seat bullet.
  17. Crimp cartridge mouth.

    There is a lot of debate as to whether single-stage, multi-stage, or progressive presses are best for new people.

    A single-stage press has, as you would expect, a single stage. You have to swap out your dies as you move from each operation of reloading. The advantage here is cost and the fact that you can focus exclusively on each step of the process. Disadvantage is speed.

    A multi-stage press has, as you would expect, multiple stages. This press holds all of your dies in one die plate, but you must manually change over from one die to the next. You still focus on each step of the process. Speed is a little faster as you do not have to re-set your dies every time you want to switch to a different die in the process.

    A progressive press holds all your dies but automatically moves the cartridge from one station to the next with each stroke of the handle. The progressive press' advantage is speed. The disadvantage is that the user must keep an eye on multiple things happening simultaneously, most importantly the powder charging step.

    I started off with a Lee Pro 1000, and it is still all I use. It is a bit twitchy in that you have to keep thumping the primer container to make sure the primer feed ramp stays full of primers or else it will start to mis-feed them. Also when the brass feed tubes start to run dry cartridges have a tendency to bounce off of the deck and scoot forward a bit getting caught under the die plate on the up-stroke, jamming the press. You have to push them back out of the way.

    You will probably want to clean your brass before reloading it. It is not absolutely essential that you do so, but it requires a lot more force to ram dirty brass through your dies than clean brass. Also dirty brass can scratch up your dies, which then in turn pass those scratches on to your ammo. To clean your brass, you will want a tumbler and seperator.

    If you are not using carbide dies you will need case lubricant and you will have to lubricate your brass before you run it through your dies. If you do not do this you will get brass stuck in your dies and you may have to send it to the factory to have it removed.

    Note that I used Amazon links for the above but obviously shop around. Also I referenced mostly Lee items but likewise shop around. Lee is usually the cheapest but can be "twitchy" compared to more expensive models.

    Do not randomly buy reloading components (powder, bullets, primer) and then try and find a recipe. It's much easier to find out what kind of powder is available to you locally and then find a recipe that uses that powder and buy bullets to match it. If you randomly buy whatever powder and bullets you can find you may have difficulty finding an existing recipe for that combination and will have to find something "close", which as a newbie I don't recommend. It's much easier to work with a known recipe for a specific powder and bullet and primer.

    Always start with the lowest recommended charge and work up from there if you find it necessary. If you are building precision ammunition for optimal accuracy you will "work up a load" to find exactly how much powder for any given bullet gives the best accuracy for any given firearm. If you are just building plinking ammunition then use the lowest listed charge that reliably cycles the action of your firearm.

    The most critical part of reloading is the powder charging step. If you build ammunition with too much powder in it it can explode and destroy the firearm and injure or even kill you. If you put too little or no powder in it you can make a "squib" where the primer will push the bullet out of the cartridge into the barrel, creating an obstruction, and if you fire the gun again it can explode, again with the risk of destroying the gun and injuring the shooter. It is important to eyeball every cartridge to make sure it is charged properly. And do spot-checks every 10th round or so with your scale to confirm the load.


u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/guns

Start with this: http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417275692&sr=8-1&keywords=lyman+reloading+manual

There are other reloading manuals, but I've found the Lyman to be the most newb friendly. It also remains a valuable resource as you gain experience.

u/SDKMMC · 2 pointsr/longrange

I have that exact kit. I would recommend buying the stuff separately, though. The scale is finicky at best. I struggled with it for a year and finally replaced it in December. Head over to /r/reloading and read the FAQ. There's a ton of good information.

The ABCs of Reloading is regarded as THE beginner's guide. You'll also need a reloading manual. I'd recommend Lyman's 49th as a starter.

For dies, I'd get the Lee Ultimate Die set for 308. It'll come with everything you'll need to reload for semi auto and bolt guns. The Lee Factory Crimp die and Collet Neck Sizing die are second to only $150+ die sets.

If you'd like me to build you a reloading setup with links, let me know.

u/alpaca_bowl · 2 pointsr/reloading

I am pretty much in the exact same situation as you. I have been researching moderately as we are hoping to start this winter. I just spent last weekend shooting with a guy who has been reloading for 40+ years.

He told me to first get a handbook. He recommended the two he had; Lyman 49th edition reloading handbook and the Hornady Handbook Of Cartridge Reloading. He said either is a good first choice, but mentioned Lyman's first, so that is the one I am getting.

The auto-progressive is what I have heard is the best setup for producing more ammo in various calibers. Usually more expensive from what I understand but by splitting it 3 ways should allow for you guys to handle it.

As far as everything else goes, I would consult the handbook. The handbook that you all purchase, you all read, and all try to fully understand front to back. Serious business when things go boom. Jokes aside, I am sure you are taking this seriously, but when dealing with explosive materials and things that can kill you, you have to trust your friend in making them as well if you are all splitting costs/liability.

On a side note - things that we have talked about in my group is a buyout option on the gear, you just never know when people end up having to move away, get married and their SO puts their balls in a vice and forces them to start chipping away at their collection/equipment. Or maybe they just don't have the time anymore.

Other things we have discussed is associating labor hours with ammo payout. If someone cant make it a few nights to help out, are they entitled to an equal 1/3^rd ?

Again, I don't reload, just sharing the advice I was given. I am sure utilizing r/reloading is part of your research, it's one of the reasons I subscribed.

Sorry for the length. Hope this helped.

Good luck man, and have fun!

The last thing he told me was "You're not going to save any money at all but going to shoot a lot more!"

TLDR: Get a good handbook.

u/InformationHorder · 2 pointsr/reloading

There's a perfectly serviceable FAQ here which SHOULD answer the mail here, but for some reason, despite the frequency of newbie posts, no one on the mod team has increased the font size of that link on the sidebar SO PEOPLE CAN ACTUALLY SEE IT AND READ IT (Seriously mods, get with it). I'll make a "Teal Deer" version even though I oughta know better by now.

  1. I don't see any reloading manuals on that list. Buy at least two reloading manuals and read them. Did you read them? Yes? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? LiarGood. You still sure about this? Yes? Ok, now you may go buy your equipment. Notice how you bought and studied some manuals and then went to buy stuff? Ok, just checking.

    In addition to the manuals there's some good Youtube videos out there you can watch to see what the books are trying to explain, but realize some people have better habits than others. Some guys do some pretty trick shit, but that's for advanced users only; fun to watch, but not necessarily a "try this at home" type of thing.

  2. If you're doing this for the money, most return on investment will be with the "uncommon" calibers, .30 carbine paid off my Lee Challenger setup after 700ish rounds. If you want to make pet hunting loads for each of your rifles you'll save dollars per round off premium .308 and .30-06 too. Conversely, it's hard to make a return on 9mm until you've bought components in bulk. Bulk in this case is defined as a couple thousand projectiles and multiple 8-pound cannisters of powder. Here's a good source for price comparison if you need some hard numbers to convince your wife to let you spend save money on this new wallet draining endeavor.

  3. Opinions will vary wildly, but if you're dead set on starting but really aren't sure if you'll stick with it, get a quality single stage press. Scour your favorite for-sale-by-owner websites for used tools, and keep an eye out for deals on Amazon. If you don't stick with the hobby, a quality single stage will be easiest to get most of your money back on when you sell it on ebay or RapelistCraigslist. If you like it, a quality single stage will always come in handy when you make special pet loads for accuracy, even if you upgrade to a progressive some day.

    If you're plan to load for bulk, which I'm guessing is your case because you're looking to do 9mm, a turret/progressive press hybrid like the Lee Classic Turret Press, where you can take the indexing rod out and use it as a single stage if need be, might be a much better choice for you. You can start out learning in single stage mode and add the indexing rod later. Single stage and 9mm is TEDIOUS (Ask me how I know...I own a Challenger like the one you have listed) Opinions on progressive presses vary, and merely by mentioning the Lee I fully expect to receive at least a half dozen unsolicited opinions replies on the matter. A progressive is pretty much mandatory if your primary purpose is to chase savings by loading pistol calibers or .223 in bulk.

    Here's my recommended list of stuff; I recommend NOT buying the Challenger KIT, because most of the stuff you'll want to upgrade later or will find you'll never use it. Take the money you're saving by not buying the kit and get the turret press I mentioned above instead. You'll spend a little bit more on certain items by going a la carte because there are a few places where not skimping gets you way more value. Buy the dies from whoever you want, quality level is up to you. For plinking purposes, and even most special tuned loads, Lee is just fine.

    Buy the press and one or two calibers of dies, then buy a good digital scale, a good chamfer and deburring tool (not that shitty Lee abomination. Seriously, fuck that thing. Your hands will thank you), a cutter (plus associated gauge and shell holder for a drill), a powder funnel, a puller for when you inevitably dick it up, and a nice set of calipers and you're off to a solid start for under $350.

    We could also get WAY into tumblers and the benefits of wet vs dry, but I'll leave some leftovers for others to talk about.
u/wddunlap · 2 pointsr/1911fans

> get a manual

This manual, to be exact. Highly recommended, it's my nightstand book currently

u/Bathroomdestroyer · 1 pointr/reloading

They must know new ones are coming out. The Lyman 49th is a little over $17

u/Damn_The_Torpedoes · 1 pointr/reloading

Lyman 49th edition is great

Nosler 7 is good too

I prefer the Lyman one; it has more data for each cartridge. The nosler manual doesn't have a lot of pistol cartridges listed. Lyman also has data for cast bullets for virtually every cartridge.

u/thebassdude · 1 pointr/reloading

With the arrival of the bushing systems, there is no point to a manually indexed turret press anymore. You either go with a single stage or progressive.

You absolutely can load match grade rifle ammo on a progressive. There are guys here reading this that do it. But you said this is your first press, so a progressive is probably not a good choice.

You mentioned loading a thousand rounds of 9mm on a single stage being a pain...it sure as hell is, and I've never even done it. But I've loaded a couple thousand rounds of .38 Special and .357 on a pot metal Lee single stage, and didn't break a thing. Was it quick? Nope. Was I in a hurry? Nope.

I'd suggest you buy this and hold off buying hardware for a while, at least until you've got a better feel for what you want to do.

u/_Riddle · 0 pointsr/reloading

A reloading manual. Buy one. Read it cover to cover at least twice. Then buy another different manual. Read it twice. Reference both for loading data.

Edit: This is the manual I mainly use. http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E

I have tons of other sources for data like magazines and what not, but the manual is always the starting point, especially for safety.

u/LocalAmazonBot · -2 pointsr/reloading

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: Lyman 49th