Reddit reviews MG Chemicals 422B Silicone Modified Conformal Coating, 55mL Glass Bottle with Brushes
We found 37 Reddit comments about MG Chemicals 422B Silicone Modified Conformal Coating, 55mL Glass Bottle with Brushes. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Certified UL 94 V-0 (File# E203094)Maximum constant service temperature of 200 °C [392 °F]Fluoresces under UV-A light (blacklight)Validated for selective robotic coating equipment including PVA and Nordson ASYMTEKExcellent corrosion resistance—tested in salt spray environment with no oxidation or coating damageEasy rework and repairs: Solder through the coating or remove with MG Cat. No. 8309 Liquid or 8310A Gel stripper formulations
This is a good conformal coating I've used after cleaning of the board to protect the traces:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Silicone conformal coating. You can cover everything with this stuff, fc, escs, vtx, reciever. Keep it out of buttons and connectors, this is where people use a brush and paint on corrosionx.
Please explain "you cleaned the bottom of the CPU?"
I sure hope you aren't talking about the center of the bottom! That part has many SMD's and should not be touched.
On what surface did you work on the CPU? Did you work on kitchen or wood/tile floor or on carpet?
I've never seen anyone kill a CPU by delidding, except on HEDT CPU's. That's because HEDT's have caps next to the die, by the IHS, and a delid that isn't using the correct kit can cause the IHS to slide over the caps and shear them off. Der8auer explicitly mentioned this in one of his videos. But that is clearly not a problem if all caps are intact.
Delidding a HEDT CPU is far far more risky than a regular consumer chip (e.g. 9900K, 8700K) even ones that are not soldered, all because of those caps.
What nail polish did you use ?? It is made clear that *ONLY* nitrocellulose based nail polish should be used. You can also use conformal coating. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/
How many coats of nail polish did you use? Usually its recommended to use about 3 coats, letting each coat dry before applying another one.
The laptop issue is surprising. I've probably applied LM on my MSI laptop about god, 30 times now? And it hasn't died yet. I even damaged one of the screwhole HS mounts (Don't ask). Laptop still works fine. How is it possible to break a laptop like this? Did any LM spill out anywhere? Did you check? Did you use a cutout foam dam as a complete spill barrier like I recommend for any direct die LM applications? (this includes delid direct die LGA (desktop), not just BGA)). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2US/
Are you sure you didn't kill the CPUs by static shock or something? Killing a LGA *AND* BGA chip has me very suspicious about what you actually did.
I use this on my new winter build. I basically do about 3 packs a day and then toss it in the rack to dry with the dishes and haven't had a problem. Chicago has a lot of snow right now and it's reversed props so it's always packed tight when I get home since they fling the snow at the flight controller.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=pd_m_ba_rp_of_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C8DPHQ5N2VJN5QBZG0NX
It's normally like this after every flight. https://imgur.com/a/XMGUulZ
Easy.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6
I've got this on my Shrieker and I've been flying it daily in rain and mud and snow. My only complaint, and I think this will be true with any conformal coating, is that it wicks into micro-buttons and can cause them to stop working if you aren't careful.
Specifically for waterproofing electronics https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3EC3ZDK61896K&keywords=silicone+conformal+coating+for+electronics&qid=1557150527&s=gateway&sprefix=silicone+conform%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1
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While you're at it, pick up a UV pen light also, to check for missed spots.
ESCs (and FC and RX) are coated in conformal compound, its like super thin layer of epoxy. See here: http://amzn.com/B008O9YIV6 Makes it mostly waterproof, in theory at least, not something I want to intentionally test.
And then between ESC and arm is thin piece of double sided foam: http://amzn.com/B007Y7EF4E
Even if it comes loose, there isn't much slack in the wires, so it can't actually move up more than a 1/8 inch or so so its not going to like get hit by a prop or something. I've done similar setup on 2 other quads and not had any issue.
Conformal Coat will be durable and microwave safe
MG Chemicals Silicone Modified Conformal Coating, 55 ml Bottle with Brush Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_szhYCbWY2KTKM
Silicone conformal coating is a good choice for where moisture is present, I don't see why not other than it being slightly more expensive. You could also try potting. I recommend this.
Open the sensor and coat the board with this.
Edit: inserted hyperlink correctly
I've used this stuff on drones, for flying in the rain (and crashing in wet grass). It's pretty good.
Here is a link to it on amazon. Would be happy to send an affiliate link if you like :)
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/
Seriously though, this stuff works well for me. I can fly and crash into snow with confidence. :)
Thats great to hear! It must've still had moisture under the chips causing a short but now had time to fully dry out.
Get this stuff https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ its modified with a UV dye so you can see where its been applied. You can get a UV led Flashlight for cheap to ensure havent missed a spot.
You can coat everything, even soldering pads. if you ever need to solder anything to the board, the coating just steams away just be sure to reapply the coating in that area afterwards.
The bottle arrived the other day and I took my tinyhawk freestyle apart and desoldered the VTX (same board as the tinyhawk) to fully coat it then also added a larger capacitor. https://i.imgur.com/wYo9Laz.jpg . I did two coats then one more once everything was soldered and plugged in. I'm confident that this thing could survive a dunk in a pond now.
Don't worry about heat. Conformal coating isn't going to insulate anything so much it over-heats. Unless you put on like 20 coats of the stuff maybe.
By the way, you should probably use silicone conformal coating instead of acrylic. It's a little more durable, and not quite as nasty to work on. Personally I prefer the liquid over aerosol. It's much easier to make sure you get everything coated well, and the fumes aren't quite as bad.
Clear nail polish may work, though this is specifically made to protect electronics and is only $12.
A lame humor response I suppose....never mind. I was only suggesting this nice servo as the ultimate pipe hitter. "Fucking around" means to me buying only a slightly better servo than you currently have now while hoping that it will be enough. Then you get it and you wish that you had not wasted time and effort on it. Then you get a slightly better one again in the hopes of the same thing...so on and so forth. My attempt at a humorous reply was to quit fucking around with all that shit and get this "mean as hell" servo and be "done fucking around"
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Does your BEC output 8.4 volts? If not, you won't be getting the most out of the KD1. It stands up to reason that you should not run a 7.4 volt servo on 8.4 volts if you want it last.
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Now "spec shopping" can be problematic. People have been doing this forever with most all kinds of merchandise. Its Marketing. The problem here is determining a common metric among brands and lines within brands. Does a reliable metric among all servos exist? ?? Who says .08s/60 degrees and 347oz-in is even accurate? Are those readings for the whole arch? Will the servo be able to hit 347oz-in while 2/3s of the way into a rotation? Does it get hot and does the torque go down with rising heat? Perhaps the equipment used to make those measurements is off a bit to inflate the "specs"? I have so many questions here?? Marketing shenanigans have been going on as long as markets have existed. I like my KD1s because they work well for me. They have no equal in my opinion. I'm too old to jack around with marketing nonsense.
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I have been playing with RC since 1986 and my "fucking around" days are long gone. Say I wanna build an RC model, I now only purchase enthusiast level products. The servo I mentioned is such a device. It is not cheap, but is anything high end cheap? Do you need a top end servo for your vehicle, probably not. Would you want one? Who wouldn't? Can you afford it? ??
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My KD1s have amazing holding power. They absolutely stay where they're told through the arch. Its CPU is extremely capable and the coding for this servo is second to none. Now, its algorithms are optimized for heli cyclic duty, but this actually seems to me to translate to surface steering use very well.
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I've never owned a Savox servo so I can not attest to their quality. As far as the Xpert being waterproof, I cannot say. It is a heli servo and flying a heli in the rain isn't likely a good idea. It also isn't advertised as waterproof. I've gotten my xpert servos wet ripping up dew covered grass and no issues so far ?? You can purchase a bottle of silicone conformal coating I waterproof circuit boards with this stuff all the time. Would it work on a servo? ??
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Being concerned about this waterproof issue, an advertised as a "car" servo with claims of waterproof might be in order here. Brushless is indeed the new hotness in servos these days. Most higher end servos nowadays are "digital" too.
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Perhaps instead of "spec shopping" utilize the gifts of modern technology and see what others have done. Don't reinvent the wheel here. As I'm sure you already know, online videos can be pretty nice for seeing what's out there. Better yet find a local RC club or track. Speak to the people there and ask what they have.
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I used to ride the brand loyalty wagon all around. I was huge into Asian RC radios and servos. I never had a bad Hitec, Futaba, Airtronics, KO Propo or JR servo. I still have vehicles with those servos in them right now.
You can mostly make it waterproof. You can crack open the case and conformal coat the PCB. I wouldn't consider it 100% because you will still have a battery and button exposed, the voltage/current is low enough it's not likely to be an issue though.
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https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=sr_1_2
A lot of people use this to make PCBs waterproof after the manufacturing process as a DIY thing. I use to to coat receivers on my RC cars and crawlers.
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That or find a small bag and put it in there. my friend does this with his phone lol
That's fair man. THat's how I feel too. Not many people skate in teh rain, but I live in the bay and that's just not an option. Oh... if you're going off-brand I'd recommend that you coat all of your componenets with conformal coating. It's an electronics waterproofing product. Here is a linkl:
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2KILXXHLES5D1&keywords=waterproofing+for+electronics&qid=1564775250&s=gateway&sprefix=waterproofing+for+ele%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-1
You should try silicon conformal coating. It really works I killed an esc going through puddles and than heard about the stuff from the fpv community and I am able to almost submerge my esc and bms.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's for waterproofing electronics.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
that's it
Don't use liquid electrical tape. It can't handle the temps and will just be goo under the HS. Use MG Chemicals 422B Silicone Modified Conformal Coating instead found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Base model Blade 15 2018 with 1060
For best thermals:
Thermal pads and liquid metal
as well as this conformal coating to prevent the liquid metal from allowing conduction to happen.
in ThrottleStop
for performance
and for Battery
Then if you want to get even better thermals
this cooling pad giving me these idle temps and these temps in Assassins Creed Odyssey after 3 hours of play Connected to my Core X Chroma.
With 32gb of RAM and 4tb of storage between the 2tb sata and the 2tb nvme drives it's my work computer with A couple VMs running and lots of chrome tabs and my main PC when i'm home plugged into the core.
if you don't like the Razer logo on the back you can get a dbrand skin on it with no logo cutout
Dry drone is a popular product out there but, it's price to size ratio is crazy. I also have come across Silicone Conformal coating like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is more specialized than nail polish.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what you want
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/
I dont get it?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6
is $13 is that out of your price range?
The nice thing about actual conformal coating is that you can solder through the coating or remove it if needed. Had grate luck with it so-fare.
They sell https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Conformal-Coating/dp/B008O9YGQI its about $5 more though, it is an Aerosol. Never used it before though.
I remember watching a YouTube video where someone covered their electronics in this stuff and flew it in a bathtub. Plus it doesn't add any bulk to the drone like liquid tape. But that being said I haven't tried it myself yet.
I'm not sure why it's so hard to find the little bottles on Amazon now.
Acrylic
Urethane
Silicone
I have the acrylic because the silicone kind costs about twice as much. The urethane might make a harder protective shell though I'm not sure. And you can solder through it so don't worry about trying to remove it.
> So for the most part you only have issues if the pcb gets wet.
That's what conformal coating is for.
What country is that? If you are in the US Amazon has what you are looking for.
I'd second the conformal coating, seems to work well for me. this is the stuff I used http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Conformal-Coating/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=pd_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41dzbpa8jyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR118%2C160_&refRID=01C6ET92JK608J6A6AWW
As others have mentioned, get rid of that tape. You should be using a conformal coating like this stuff... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J5dKBbSFHY21N
conformal coat EVERYTHING you can (https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6). use 'sensor-safe' silicone gasket maker everywhere. It's actually more than just damage, I got water in my HK Swamp Dawg airboat RX and it went full throttle, rather than failsafe. I was holding it, having just gotten it out of the water, draining it. I almost bit me.
also, consider a cheap gyro, really helps with wind, turning and super fun drifting.
Actually, I didn't do anything to the connectors. Good XT60 connectors should be watertight as-is, and I left all connectors open for fear of getting silicone in them.
I ruined my first FC board when the silicon 'wicked' up into the dry micro USB port. I couldn't plug in the cable anymore, so I had to get a new FC.
MG Chemicals Silicon Modified Conformal Coating.
I was able to see where I had coated and where I missed with this UV Flashlight.
I wanted to try this but dat manufacturing lead time doe