Reddit reviews Micro-Mesh Micro - 4N0000V Colored Sanding Sticks

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-MICRO-4N0000V-Colored-Sanding/dp/B003ELIO0A/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496455551&sr=1-1&keywords=Micro-Mesh+MICRO+-+4N0000V+Colored+Sanding+Sticks

Well, if you're thinking about doing it get some mylar paper from goulet and go slow and use super cheap nibs. You will break your first 4-16 nibs.

I personally like to do it on my dremel at low speeds using a finer grit spinny thing :) The way you do it is keep a vision of what the nib should look like at a very detailed level and just go slow and light with the grinding and check it with a loupe often. I use a 60x loupe (this one, it's amazing) and check the shape of the nib OFTEN. After every few seconds of work I'll check it till it's in the shape I want, then I'll take some fine files and smooth it out a bit with different sticks between 3200 and 12000 grit. I'll usually move up from 3200 and just keep going until I'm on the 12000 grit stick. I usually have the nib I'm working on in the pen by the stick tuning part but I do take out the nib when I'm using the dremel.

Now that I've gotten pretty proficient at it, it usually only takes about 5 minutes to do a nib unless it's below a F, in which case it'll take up to 10 since you really have to go slow with those because you want to keep as much material on the nib as possible, but just shape it into a finer point where the paper touches it.

I've used these, and they do the job. You can even use every-other grit, rather than going through each of them.

As mentioned by another modeler you can use polishing pads.

Micro Mesh are good. These pads are also useful, I use them wet and in order. I also cut them into smaller pieces to make polishing easier.

As for a polishing compound, I found this one to be good. It also works well on the lenses of modern 1:1 size cars if you need them to be as bright as new. ;^)

I forgot one more method that I used before. It is a little more aggressive than an eraser but it works if you take your time. Wet sand using a high grit sanding stick. A drop of dawn in your water helps. These aren't the exact ones that I used but it is close. It will leave a little haze on the area you sanded but your clearcoat will make it disappear.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ELIO0A/ref=asc_df_B003ELIO0A5426676/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B003ELIO0A&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167153283791&hvpos=1o6&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5050060401267926860&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033497&hvtargid=pla-309730325436

if i get this pack of sandpaper sticks, what grits from it should i use for making the nub smooth and as unnoticeable as it can be

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ELIO0A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2NWLOWWF5G7JX&psc=1#customerReviews

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my nippers are the god hands and i don't have or plan on getting a hobby knife if it matters

Amazon sells these, they work extremely well.

Micro-Mesh MICRO - 4N0000V Colored Sanding Sticks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ELIO0A?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ELIO0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_NTi9BbYRY0FM5

Nemosine has a nib that will fit in EF (and other sizes) for about $7, then there is the Goulet nibs, #6 will fit.

On to your question, search for micro mesh and you should be on the right path to re-shape and clean up a nib. For heavy profiling, you will want to start with a lower grit (800-1500), then work up to 12,000 or beyond for finishing. Be careful, it is easy to go to far, and ruin the nib. This will not be any cheaper than picking up a new nib, and probably more expensive, but it can be fun.