Reddit Reddit reviews Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with Slotted Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 w/.4mm Nozzle

We found 32 Reddit comments about Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with Slotted Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 w/.4mm Nozzle. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

3D Printer Extruders
3D Printer Parts & Accessories
Additive Manufacturing Products
Industrial & Scientific
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with Slotted Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 w/.4mm Nozzle
Fits: Wanhao i3, Monoprice Maker Select 3D Printer v2, Cocoon Create 3D Printer.4mm Nozzle Plated with HIGH LUBRICITY WEAR RESISTANT TwinClad XT CoatingKit Includes: Thermal Barrier Tube, Plated Nozzle and Slotted Cooling blockSlotted Clamping system, No set screw to ding and damage thermal tube, Significantly better heat transferMade in USA by Micro Swiss
Check price on Amazon

32 Reddit comments about Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with Slotted Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 w/.4mm Nozzle:

u/hwangw · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/AddictedToComedy · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

Weird post to make an image, but go ahead and grab the first one.

u/robawesome · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I totally recommend the All-Metal extruder Hotend for the i3 as well, once I threw that on, my prints were beautiful.

u/Malichi188 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I would second the Microswiss. It will be my next nozzle after seeing all the recommendations both here on reddit and on the various other Wanhao/Maker boards. Find it here

u/davebensen22 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.

all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.

heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.

print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.

these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.

oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:

that's also something you should do asap.

u/midnightsmith · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Seconding everything people have said here and want to add the following.
A glass bed with 10mil PEI from CS Hyde will do wonders for bed leveling.

Upgrade your Y plate as soon as possible, the stock one warps over enough time making bed leveling nearly impossible.

All metal hotend such as the micro swiss is amazing, no more clogged PTFE tubing, easier to clean if it does.

Z brace is a must, also print a fan cooler like the Diicooler on thingiverse. Replace the stock part cooling fan with a nice radial fan, plenty on amazon, make sure its 12v. This helps prints come out cleaner.

Yours should come with thumbwheels, if not, print some, bed leveling is easier with it.

Print some spring cups as well, keeps the springs straight and not bending when leveling the bed.


Watch this vid and do his printed mods

Also, stay far far FAR away from Shaxon filament! It broke my hotend, check my post history to see the red glob of death I dealt with. I have had very good luck with eSun PLA.

Links for bought parts:
Fans: [here (]

Glass plate: [Here (]

Hotend: [Here(]

Y plate: [Here (]

MOSFET: [here(] and wires [here(]

u/computerguy0-0 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Yes, it's that z brace mod. Make sure you use the version with the adjustment nuts at the top AND bottom.

Here's the hot end.

I also recommend the 120mm fan mod to shut those noisy fans up, a glass bed because the leveling of the bed it comes with is horrible, an upgraded spool holder, and some lock nuts for the bed. (At a minimum.)

u/phr0ze · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Nozzles are all generally brass. Those should be expected to be replaced from time to time. They are relatively cheap. The Microswiss upgrade is more than just a nozzle. It replaces the stock hotend with all metal. In your stock hotend is a PTFE tube that can cause jams, will deform if heated too high, and prevents you from using certain materials. The microswiss is a relatively inexpensive and easy way to fix this.

I recommend the block too:

However you can save a little money:

u/royalchameleon · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

FYI, The Monoprice Maker select V2 is a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.1, and its also known as the Coccoon Create in other countries. If you see any of those names, thats your printer.

Your printer doesnt use an E3D V6 hotend, it uses a MK10 hotend.
You can use a V6, but you'll have to print a bracket for it, will probably require some firmware changes with requires flashing a bootloader with an arduino, and may require some additional hardware.

Normally its recommended to just heat up your hotend and carefully pull that plastic off with tweezers, but as your heating cartridge is damaged, that leaves you with two options-

  • You can heat it up (oven, lighter, etc) and pull the crap off it. Depending on the formulation of the filament, acetone may help soften it. PLA isn't soluble in acetone but depending on the brand they may use other plasticizers, and those can be, so try soaking it in acetone for a few minutes.

  • Replace the whole hotend. The store I link below has one, but it doesnt look quite right to me and the label isnt right... You can find replacement MK10 hotends on amazon/ebay from china, but if quality is more important than price to you I'd check out Microswiss. Theyre an American company, they make good stuff. You'll still need a heater block though... this one looks like its well made.

    I never used it, but this one from Gulfcoast Robotics looks well made as well. this is your whole setup minus a heating cartridge. A whole all metal hotend with nozzle and thermistor for $45 is a deal. They've even got installation instructions linked in the description. Side note- i assume it takes a 1/4in 6.35mm cartridge like the original but you might want to double check with them. You can never go wrong with well-manufactured American components.

    Either way you'll need a new heater cartridge (and probably thermistor). Heres a link to a replacement cartridge. Heres a link to a store full of wanhao parts.

    This printer uses an unusual sized heater cartridge- 1/4in, AKA 6.35mm.
    Most (E3D) cartridges are 6mm.

    Dont get a 6mm cartridge, get a 6.3-6.35mm cartridge. (A 6mm will be too loose and thats one of the reasons that the Anet A8 is such a fire hazard, the heater cartridge can fall out)

    Good luck!
u/Fuzzytech · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Important thing to remember: Nothing is -ever- mandatory unless it's a major safety issue. The closest thing to that on that printer is the mosfet. I believe your original message implies you replaced the buildtak, so the Mosfet upgrade would be a very good idea unless you plan to change out the control board entirely.

Everything else is Optional and Quality of Life/Print stuff. ^.^

The following are examples on Amazon. Other folks and posts may have better advice on where/what to get.

Y Carriage plate (This is the part under the heated bed)

MicroSwiss all metal hotend (From other person's post):

Linear bearings would be LM8LUU for the Y rods. If you have the plastic bearing holders, it's easy. If you have the aluminum block bearing holders, you'll have to find somebody else to source info on the circlips and how to not become sad with them.

You can print things just fine without any of these upgrades, so don't worry about the long print (unless you run out of filament).

A new controller board can do extra stuff and is required (Highly recommended, since you "can" make the probe work on the Melzi board, but poorly and at the cost of other things) for Z-Probe use, dual extruder, and with the heated bed on that printer, can remove the need for a separate MOSFET. It opens the path for other upgrades, can improve print quality to a degree in some cases, and can drive you absolutely nuts trying to set it up.

The inexpensive Quality of Life I'd recommend are thumbwheels with nylock nuts (hard to turn, but keep your level for a long time); corner-bracket spring cups (printed); and glass print bed. Two sets of printed things and about $12 at worst for the glass.

The bearing upgrade (If you can do it without fighting circlips) helps reduce Y-axis stutter and vibration. That upgrade brought my print quality up hugely. $25 or so if you get a lot of spares or higher quality ones.

The Y platform helps you with leveling and staying level.

The lack enclosure has some printed parts, $20-40 worth of Ikea furniture, and up to $50 worth of siding depending on your ability to cut glass and plexiglass.

So many things you CAN do. None that you MUST do. Some that you SHOULD do. And everything else is Just For Fun.

u/intrglctcrevfnk · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

That link looks like a Bowden extruder setup where the stepper motor is further upstream from where the plastic is melted/extruded.

I have a MS+ also, the recommended replacement for that part is the MicroSwiss all metal hotend.

Here is the block:
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with SLOTTED Cooling Block for Wanhao i3

Extruder plate:
Micro Swiss CNC Machined Aluminum Extruder Plate for Wanhao i3

CNC Machined Lever for Wanhao i3 extruder

u/citrus_monkeybutts · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

My MS is out of commission right now due to a motherboard issue - but that's not something that's common occurence with these machines. That aside - I love my MS, it's a damn good printer for the price and works really well. Plus it's on the cheaper side of things and can be upgraded pretty easily. I would suggest getting this printer, and a glass sheet for a bed upgrade. The buildtak stuff they put on it is fine for a little bit, but the glass just produces better results in my experience. And if you want to at a later point in time, a MK10 all metal hotend nozzle upgrade (with cooling block) is also a fairly cheap and easy buy/install. Just the core machine though, no mods - is really good and easy to install and calibrate. Totally would buy another one if I could right now.

Glass bed

Nozzle upgrade

u/skipsinclair · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Amazon has the same one if you don't want to mess with the 'bay.

u/TheMadRocker · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I went with the MicroSwiss upgrade. Was quite painless to do. Just be sure to start your base retraction to .5 and tweak from there. The Cura given with the MP Select has its retraction set to 7mm from the start so you may want to look into adjusting it now before you clog again.

u/AD108 · 2 pointsr/onewheel

I have the same printer. While everyone is correct in saying you can handle the higher temps, you need to be careful because of the PTFE hotend it comes with stock. The PTFE tubing in the hotend starts to get mushy around 245 and printing too long at this temperature will eventually result in a clog. I upgraded mine to the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend and never looked back. Higher, more consistent print temps as well as better looking prints overall!

Alternate Amazon Link

u/tropho23 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Hotend replacement:
I replaced the stock hotend/PTFE tube setup with an all-metal Micro Swiss hotend ($50):Amazon link to the Micro Swiss all-metal hotend kit:

Bed leveling:

  1. Most importantly, I purchased a glass bed to eliminate the never-really-level printbed.Amazon link to the borosilicate glass bed ($25):

  2. Since that didn't I completely fix the warped bed issue, I also replaced the aluminum Y-carriage underneath with a thicker, stronger carriage and my bed leveling is now perfect. I still re-level before every print just in case, and now never have leveling-related problems.Amazon link to the aluminum Y-carriage ($28):

    Frame Stabilization:
    I printed the parts, and purchased the hardware at Home Depot for the Z-brace mod, which stabilized the printer frame:Thingiverse link for Z-brace mod for I3 Plus: the original Thingiverse link in comments, which is required for the other Z-brace parts:

    I printed a Dii Cooler in PETG and replaced the stock cooler with one of those 24V "squirrel cage" fans, which provided much better cooling for all sides of my prints. Before that it really only cooled the front of prints, leaving the sides and especially the rear of prints looking pretty bad.Thingiverse link for Dii Cooler for i3 Plus:
u/organic_meatbag · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Drop the PLA temp to around 203, add minimum layer time to around 15 sec on Cura. Bed also doesn't need to be that hot with the Buildtak

Use cura 15.04 instead of the Cura the V2 shipped with - 15.04 has way more custom options.

I did the blower fan upgrade for my V2.1: which helps immensely in overhangs and small details like fingers

Also since your room is cold, consider upgrading your nozzle to all metal:

If you choose not to upgrade to all metal, consider using some nozzle insulation: you will need kapton tape for the insulation

The all metal hot end + insulation will help you maintain consistent temperatures in your cold room

u/Greg883XL · 1 pointr/wanhaoi3

Had almost the same problem on my Monoprice clone - would stop feeding, changed brands, etc. until finally the filament had fused to the PTFE tube in the hot end. Required a complete tear down to find it. I figured as long as I'm in there, upgrade the extruder plate

and the thermistor

Follow the instructions - do not skip the "tight, then back off 1/4 turn. Heat up to 250 and then tighten the nozzle" steps.

Strip off the Kapton tape (if it hasn't already torn off) and use these instead

u/NocturnalPermission · 1 pointr/wanhaoi3

I recently went through exactly this same situation. I was ready to upgrade to a microswiss all-metal hotend and the catastrophic failure of the print leaving gunk all over my heater block forced the issue. In my case, I opted to replace everything I could including the thermistor and heating element. They are both very inexpensive and you should have a spare laying around anyway in case you need one in a hurry. to clean your heating block...

Fire. Seriously. I used a combination of blowtorch and solvent to remove all the gunk (and mine was a LOT worse than basically encapsulated one entire end of my heater block, entombing the thermistor, heater and associated wiring).

I used your typical propane torch, holding my heater block in a vise or vise grips. I'd heat it up then quickly wipe away the melted PLA with a clean cloth. Heat, repeat. Then I'd soak the whole thing in some solvent (acetone, MEK, etc). Repeat until clean. Pay careful attention to the tiny setscrew that holds the heater in it free with a hex wrench while it is hot...chances are you got some PLA stuck on there, too. Obviously be super careful when you do this. Ventilation, fire-extinguisher handy, your mom on speed-dial.

When you replace the thermistor and heating element you'll need to do some soldering. This is pretty unavoidable. Those elements come with very long wires attached to them and the Wanhao/MP print heat doesn't need that length. Clip it short, make good solders and use heatshrink over your joints. For the thermistor I simply cut out the center section of the wire and spliced the connector back to the component at the length i needed.

Now, when you put it all back together you will have the option of re-wrapping the heater block with cotton and Kapton tape. People seem split on if this is necessary, but since I'd battled heat creep before I didn't want to introduce any more heat up the I opted to do it. It's a bit tricky if you get the non-punched cotton strips like I did. Luckily I had hole punches handy to make the provision for the hotend and nozzle to get thru the insulation. If you don't have these tools (or don't quite know how to do it), i'd shop around for pre-punched sets.

good luck. Let me know if you need any more help.

here are the parts i used:

u/dtmcnamara · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Get the microswiss all metal hotend and a glass build plate. Best mods I have done to mine, other than the z-brace

u/Vanced-player · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with SLOTTED Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 This should solve your issue.

u/Tjololo · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

/u/hupo224 I second this. I have the monoprice maker select v2, and the microswiss hotend is a great part for it. It's a little more expensive at $50 on amazon, but 100% worth it. If not just for the fact that you can print higher temp materials without worrying about the PFTE tube.

u/Shar3D · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Wanhao i3 Duplicator v2.1 by way of Amazon.

I have two of them, easy to use and improve machine.

Here's a Facebook group dedicated to them.

If you get this printer, this is a highly recommended upgrade. It's a hardened steel nozzle and slotted cooling block kit. Very easy to install, improves holding a given temp in the hot end.

And here is a good deal on filament that's made in America, a grab bag of four rolls for $60, your choice on type.

u/SomeGnosis · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Set it up and use the existing hotend to print out a z-brace kit, I printed for days without it but it really helps. This will also help you understand and appreciate the difference when you upgrade the hotend :) People run into the connector problem when heating the bed up for ABS and other higher-temp filaments, I have had no issue running PLA. I also never leave the house when it's running, but that's a general distrust of robots thing. Now, with z-braces, allmetal hotend, and a pei sheet, I have had awesome prints every time.

u/Jamlpr · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Would this be better for number 3?

Edit: also which hairspray do you use?

u/DaoDeer · 1 pointr/3Dprinting


($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod


($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.

Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.


Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2


Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.

The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.


Glass bed Holder

Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.


Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.


($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors

$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

u/WastingBody · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

The nozzle on that printer is a MK10 nozzle. There's a bunch on Amazon.

Unless you've been really abusive, it could just use a nice clean. I use a brass brush on mine. Just pre heat the hot end and scrub away. It'll be fairly clean when you're done.

But if you want to change the nozzle, you may want to go ahead and upgrade to an all metal setup with the Micro Swiss hot end. This comes with a new nozzle and some other stuff.

I personally have the Micro Swiss kit with their plated nozzle. After scrubbing it, it always looks good as new.

u/HillbillyZT · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Go ahead and grab the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with Slotted Cooling block. Like $50 on Amazon with Prime. An all-metal is necessary for printing PETG/ABS/anything above 230 really.

Also, the 3DPrinting nerd fairly recently uploaded a full tutorial on installing this thing if you're uncomfortable with the (well) written instruction.

Another user mentioned that they swapped in an E3D, but that is a) probably a bit overkill, and b) a huge hassle.

u/krush_groove · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

OK good info! I can get loads of 3mm hardware easily so no worries there.

I found this hot end and cooling block in the related items: Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend with SLOTTED Cooling Block for Wanhao i3 is this good for the price? I'll look online but are there specific enclosure designs that work best?

Also found a laptop cooling fan that is supposed to fit, and borosilicate glass for the bed.

I'm going to start slow with PLA and see where my adventures take me but I might get a reel of ABS too, hopefully I can make RC car parts and stuff like that the some point.

u/Abrahamarama · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I got this full setup from Amazon and I have been very happy with it. When I performed the swap I noticed that the heatsink facing side of my cooling block had a REALLY shitty surface on it. I think I was getting poor conduction to the heatsink and experiencing heat creep after a couple hours. The face on the slotted block is beautiful. No more heat creep.