Reddit Reddit reviews Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs

We found 48 Reddit comments about Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs
Mine A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs
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48 Reddit comments about Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs:

u/librarychick77 · 39 pointsr/Dogtraining

This might be a novel, so I'm going to address pieces at a time.

> We removed it and she put up a small fuss but we discouraged it once and everything was fine.

What do you mean 'discouraged' it? Any sort of punishment or negative reaction on your part will make her behavior worse - not better. I'd strongly suggest getting this booklet on resource guarding so you know what you're really dealing with.

> I reached for the chocolate and of course she guards it. She's growling at my and refusing to let go. Baring teeth. Whale eye. The whole slew of warning signs telling me to back off. Obviously this is a drastic situation, so I unfortunately have to ignore these warnings.

I'm going to disagree with you here - your next actions led directly to the nip. There are other ways to handle this, and you need to be better prepared for next time.

  1. teach a solid drop and reinforce the crap out out of it. 1, 2

  2. teach a solid leave it so you can prevent this in the future. 1, 2, 3.

    Work both of those until they're muscle memory for the dog - as soon as you say the word her mouth pops open no matter what's in it.

  3. Have an emergency backup. This is the big deal for if you're already in the situation and you need to get something back. This requires some prep, but can also work 'in the moment' if you give it the right tone.

    A few times a week suddenly hollar "TREAT TIME!!!!" and run to the kitchen, where you stuff 5-7 chunks of hot dog at your dog one at a time - 'machine gun' treats, one right after another. Next time she's got something you don't think she'll 'drop' instead of reaching into her mouth you can hollar "TREAT TIME!" and she'll run with you (away from the person who likely dropped the thing, handily) to the fridge where you stuff her full of things - because she can't both guard whatever she has AND get the treats.

    If it happens again before you have it really solid just send your SO to the fridge to get something yummy - at this point you are NOT worried about if it's healthy, you're worried about 'will she want it more than whatever she has'. Then when she drops the thing you lead her away from it with said treats and someone else retrieves the item when she's out of visual range.

    > I open her mouth with both hands and she growls one last time and nips me, but as she does it I snatch my hand and the chocolate away from her.

    Your dog has phenomenal bite inhibition. She could have given you a really bad bite, but didn't. Remember that. You literally took an amazing thing out of her mouth and she barely nipped you. Remember that.

    This is not the dog who 'suddenly' and 'out of no where' gives a deep bite. That is a wonderful thing. Listen to her warnings, and respect them and she won't escalate.

    > Her previous foster and I came to an agreement that if I decide to adopt her (which I'm still interested in doing) that my adoption fee wouldn't go to the organization, but rather a behavioralist/trainer to work out some of the guarding tendencies.

    I have to say - that is fantastic. Serious kudos to this rescue group for making this offer. The only hesitation I have is what their trainer is like. Hopefully the trainer is force free and will use scientifically based positive methods to help address WHY the dog is fearful, rather than trying to 'dominate' her into submission - which will not work, but will very likely make her much worse.

    Remember that guarding aggression is fear based - fear that someone will take her things away. If you feed into that by taking her things away it will get worse, if you teach her that giving you things is GREAT then it will improve.

    > Should I have taken the time to try and distract her from the chocolate she was consuming?

    Honestly, that's a judgement call. If you knew you were going to take her to the vet anyways based on what she had consumed...given it was chocolate I wouldn't have fought over it as they were going to pump her stomach one way or another. A bit more wouldn't have changed that.

    It really depends on what she has and how much training you put in.

    > Did I do the right thing by just taking the initiative to get it out of her mouth?

    My personal choice would have been not to risk it - however, I regularly deal with other people's dogs, and my #1 priority is to make sure I do everything I can to keep their dog from getting a bite history. In the moment, it's a hard call to make.

    > If the dog gives warnings like this one do I have to currently worry about escalation?

    That depends. If you work with her on a solid drop/leave, if you practice that emergency situation response I have above, and if you respect her warnings as much as you possibly On the other hand, if you 'discourage' her from taking or guarding, punish her, routinely take things from her forcibly...yes, definitely.

    The ball is in your court.

    > Also, should I worry about the bite getting infected?

    Probably not. You washed it and are keeping an eye on it, and it was barely a nick. Consider it a paper cut. Is it possible it gets infected? Yes, because your skin was broken it is technically possible. Is it likely if you have a normal and healthy immune system? Nope.
u/Serial_Buttdialer · 24 pointsr/dogs

Your training methods are the kind that causes aggression like this, not removes it.

You need to stop thinking of yourself as the "alpha" today and instead recognise that resource guarding comes from a place of insecurity and fear, not "dominance" or wilfulness. You don't specify how you 'correct behaviour', but any training techniques using the outdated debunked alpha theory are likely to be highly over the top, frightening and in no way a solution to the problem.

In addition, reaching into the middle of any dog fight is a recipe for a bite. In the moment, neither dog knows that a hand reaching in isn't another immediate threat and so they will react accordingly.

Here are some books to help you with the resource guarding and understanding life from your dog's perspective, not from pseudo-science's:

u/kt-bug17 · 18 pointsr/AmItheAsshole

YTA for being a bad dog owner by encouraging a dangerous behavior in your dog.

This behavior from the dog isn’t cute. It isn’t funny. It is a VERY concerning behavioral issue called “resource guarding” which can easily lead to a bite and euthanasia of the dog for aggression if left untreated.

Resource guarding is when a dog aggressively “protects” something of value (usually food or toys) from another dog or a person; occasionally a dog will resource guard their owner against other dogs and people. This behavior may be with just your sister for now but it could easily spread towards your dog aggressing at other people when they approach you. Those sorts of situations are when a dog is highly likely to bite.

> So he jumped off and proceeded to lay under my feet as if to guard me. My toes rubbing the back of his head. My sister comes near and he growls at her with his teeth bared.

> I laughed a happy laugh as she backed up and proceeded to talk shit about it and almost leave him at our house. I rubbed his butt whilst lecturing him.

You are reinforcing his dangerous behavior by petting him after he is aggressive towards a person.

You may be “lecturing” him but seeing as HE DOESN’T SPEAK ENGLISH your words are doing nothing. All he understands is “when I aggressively guard OP from Sister good things (pets and happy noises) happen to me! I should keep doing it to get more good things!” Your reaction to his aggressive behavior is actively making the problem worse.

You and your sister need to train the dog not to resource guard ASAP for her own safety. Here is a great dog training blog post The book Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs is a good resource to use. It mainly covers food and toy aggression, but the same training methods can be used for when dog is resource guarding a person. on the subject. /r/Dogtraining and /r/reactivedogs are also good subreddits for dog training.

Train your dog before something bad happens and the dog ends up suffering the consequences.

u/Mbwapuppy · 16 pointsr/dogs

You’ve gotten some very bad advice here, which you should ignore. Forget about being “alpha of the pack.” And do not flip your dog over on her back and say “no.” Those approaches are going to make things worse. You'll mess up your dog and mess up your relationship with her.

The common dog-jargon term for the behavior you’re describing is “resource guarding.” The best book on the subject is Jean Donaldson’s Mine! You should buy it or get it from your library (or via interlibrary loan). Also check out this blog post by Patricia McConnell.

u/SunRaven01 · 12 pointsr/dogs

Your fuck-up happened with "assert dominance."

Buy this:

You can't bully a dog out of resource guarding, and you certainly shouldn't be trying to bully a newly adopted dog.

u/[deleted] · 11 pointsr/dogs

> Now I'm not afraid of the pooch and give him a shout and put him on his side pinned down

You are teaching him to be afraid of your hands/touch and, by being physically forceful and threatening with him, you are teaching him to be more aggressive and possessive of his things. You should be afraid to let him around children, now that you've taught him that pushy hands on his body = a threat and his favorite things getting taken away.

Try reading Mine! and attempting a switch from physical threats to an actual training plan.

u/radalicious123 · 10 pointsr/Dogtraining

It's not judgment, it's pointing out that you need to take responsibility for what happened. It wasn't "unfortunate". It was your own serious fuckup when you let your toddler anywhere in reach of a KNOWN resource guarding dog while the dog had a bone. Now your kiddo has paid the price. Hopefully you will step up, and it will be the last time one way or another.

Yes there are ways to work on this with the dog. Here is one: Your idea of hiring a behaviorist is good too, especially if that guide doesn't make sense or seems too complex.

In the meantime you can't let this situation happen again - follow /u/shiplesp advice.

u/caffeinatedlackey · 8 pointsr/Dogtraining

Get a copy of Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs. It will help immensely. Resource guarding of this caliber in a puppy this young is very concerning so it's good that you're starting to work on this now.

u/AutoModerator · 7 pointsr/puppy101

Hello, we see you may be posting about Resource Guarding. This is when dogs vocalize (growling, barking), or use more physical means (biting, air snaps, lunging and so forth) to convince us or other dogs to stay far away from their valuable resource. The resource could be a mere piece of kibble, a bully stick or chew, a chair, a piece of trash, a bed, a toy, a person, or any object the dog deems of high value. All dogs may guard to an extent, since they innately do not know how to share. They view all resources mentally as "Mine, mine and only mine!". Resource Guarding is a rather common behavior that dog owners face to one extent or another. We wanted to supply you with some wonderful resources on this topic, but be aware that management and proactive learning will be needed.

u/_Lucky_Devil · 6 pointsr/dogs

There's a bunch of anthropomorphizing going on here... but your dog is not having PTSD "flashbacks," your dog is resource guarding. Dogs can resource guard food (ie kibble, treats, bones), toys, objects, people, and places (ie favorite spot on the couch).

Here are some resources to help you work on this issue with Dita:

u/helleraine · 6 pointsr/dogs

Sounds like he may hate other dogs, but he is also resource guarding. Does he toy guard from you too, or just other dogs?

I think management is probably easiest here, and just avoid parks and areas with other dogs if he's not dog friendly. I'd also muzzle train and give other dogs a wide berth.

Mine! is a fabulous resource on evaluating and working on the guarding issue. BAT 2.0 is awesome for the aggression/fear/frustration.

I'm not sure he'll ever be dog friendly, but dog neutral might be doable. :)

u/CallMeMrsSlender · 6 pointsr/puppy101

Here All of my dogs resource guard over different things. This book has been a lifesaver and I've made it to the point that things are manageable and rarely ever interfere with how we do things.

Aside from that just take a deep breath and try to relax. This a a common issue, you can and you will over come it. It's going to take some time but it's possible. You need to keep a level head, anything aside from being calm and patient will make things much harder on you both.

Edit: Sorry forgot to add, odds are he wasn't already feeling well since he vomited and with his guarding tendencies as you described, a simple touch was what pushed him over threshold so he growled/barked as a warning.

I mentioned it in a different thread but stress stacks in dogs. They don't just unwind and everything is magically a-okay like we can go get ice cream/ a bottle of wine or beer and we're good. A lot of little things can stack up for example (including some of the things you said plus things that probably didn't happen) unfamiliar things, a routine change, upset belly, loud noises, being very hungry, then being touched while eating all stacks up into one big pile of stress so he reacted more than he would have.

u/Phoolf · 5 pointsr/dogs

I would recommend this book called Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs by Jean Donaldson. It should help you understand why this has happened and what to do about it. If the problem escalates and you find yourself unable to cope then consult a behaviourist.

u/thisisthepoint_er · 5 pointsr/dogs

It you haven’t yet, check out “Mine!”. The person suggesting that hitting a resource guarding dog is appropriate is very much incorrect.

u/Works_For_Treats · 5 pointsr/dogs

This sounds like resource guarding to me. Especially if he's in a daycare and isn't aggressive there. He doesn't want anyone messing with his things. At daycare it's rare for there to be resources to guard, and if it's a reputable place there won't be. So it follows that he'd have no reason to be aggressive. You're also entirely right that the pup would learn from him. While he has these issues it would be unwise to introduce another dog into the situation.

A great primer for understanding resource guarding as well as protocols that can be set in place to prevent and eventually fix the issue is Mine. At his age he is still relatively young and the problem is only just now really developing, so it can be reversed. It's not your fault for not seeing the signs before it began to happen on a very obvious scale, you're not trainers or behaviorists nor have you been taught to recognize these things. It isn't your fault and you did you best with the knowledge you had.

What methods did the trainer you used in NY use if you don't mind me asking?

u/tokisushi · 5 pointsr/corgi

It's resource guarding. The key to working with this is to change the goal from taking something away to building confidence that you being around valued things is OK. the more you fight and restrain him and push him over his threshold, the more difficult working with this behavior will become.

If you find yourself stuck, call in a positive reinforcement based behaviorist with guarding experience. Be sure to discuss this approach in detail and make sure it is something you can continue to work on safely when the trainer isn't there.

This is one of my favorite articles on recourse guarding - it can be a good starting place :

Also this book :

u/CleverHansDevilsWork · 5 pointsr/Dogtraining

Like most training, you need to set up practice scenarios in order to succeed. If you dive straight into real world scenarios with highly valued items, of course you'll fail. It's a bit like trying to teach recall at the dog park without practicing hundreds of times in scenarios that are easier for your dog (and then claiming treats just don't work). You're setting the dog up for failure. You always need to set up situations where it's easy for the dog to give you the response you want. In this case, you need to give the dog low value items you can trade for in a calm, safe environment. Practice with items the dog is all too willing to trade for and gradually work your way up to higher value items and extremely high value items for trade. These practice scenarios will often involve items you can give back to the dog after you've taken them away. That teaches the dog that giving an item to you doesn't necessarily mean it will be taken away, and that really helps to build trust for emergency situations in the real world.

Mine! by Jean Donaldson is a good overview of guarding behavior in dogs and some of the steps you can take to work on it while making sure that you and others remain safe.

u/obastables · 4 pointsr/shiba

I know the dogs are both older but it wouldn’t hurt to take them to a basic training class that uses positive reinforcement. I would maybe suggest that you take your wife’s dog and she take yours. The idea isn’t to train the dogs so much as it is to condition them to listen better, which it sounds like your wife’s dog needs, but it will help both of you learn how to handle the dogs better and improve their bonds with the person doing the training.

It’ll also give them something to do together that’s positive & that’s really the goal. Right now they have negative interactions with negative consequences. This needs to shift to positive interactions with positive consequences.

Punishment when something bad happens is hard for dogs to understand. They don’t know that the bite was wrong or the growl was wrong or the way they looked at something was wrong and so it becomes hard to remove a bad behaviour because instead of stopping an aggression they just hide or adjust how it’s displayed. This is dangerous, because you may think they’re ok when in truth they’re just showing the aggression differently.

Positive reinforcement doesn’t teach dogs to hide their reactions. Instead you reward the actions you want to see and build positive connections between action / your reaction. It takes time, especially after an attack, but with the right training and tools I think you’ll get there.

I’d also recommend seeking a registered behaviourist if it’s within your budget, and recommend the following books:

Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0

Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs

u/Barkbringer · 4 pointsr/Dogtraining

Please stop alpha rolling your dogs. Dominance theory has been debunked and is likely only escalating the situation. It is up to you to manage the environment so that your dogs are set up to succeed. If that means feeding them separately in their own crates or restricting their access to things they can guard then that is up to you.

This book is often recommended for resource guarding.

u/YahtzeeDii · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

It sounds like you've already figured out that resource guarding is the issue. Just wanted to say that my favorite resource on this is "Mine!" by Jean Donaldson. This book provides management techniques and steps to help counter-condition Rainy to be more comfortable with others in the presence of his precious resources. Good luck!

u/TentacleLoveGoddess · 3 pointsr/dogs

Mine! is the one I see most often recommended.

u/sir_barks_a_lot · 3 pointsr/greatpyrenees

If you want to understand more about it and are willing to spend time on training, I would suggest this book: It is written for dog behavioralists, but as a fellow Pyr person I have found it very helpful in understanding resource guarding in my own dog. The strategies described in the book have been very helpful to me.

u/Shearaha1 · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

You sound like you have a smaller version of my dog (70lbs).

STRANGERS: Does he have a crate? If not, get him one. If so, teach him to go to the crate when people come over, and go there anytime he's feeling stressed or overwhelmed. No one bothers him there, and no one approaches him there. Give him his space. You can close him in there for safety, or if he's OK (and/or my next suggestion here) leave it open for him to go in and out as he feels the need.

Have you tried muzzle training. Teaching him to wear a basket muzzle while people are over will give him the opportunity to move around them, take treats and get acclimated all while keeping your guests safe. The muzzle may also be useful for walks. KikoPup has an excellent video on teaching your dog to wear a muzzle. If done right your dog will enjoy putting on and wearing his muzzle. I know mine does, he has trouble staying still while a fasten it on because he's wagging his tail so hard.

WALKING: Do your best to take him for walks during the quieter parts of the day. After dark, early morning and early afternoons are usually good. If having a job seems to help him, put him to work. Teach him how to focus and pay attention to you at home, then start asking for it on walks, then pausing to ask for different "tricks" along the way. Keep him guessing as to what you're doing next. Don't be afraid to pull out the "big guns" when it comes to treats for high distraction and problem areas like walks. Is there any food he goes nuts for? And not just the commercial treats; lunch-meat, cheeses, green tripe, bacon. Try a bunch of things and see what really lights him up, reserve that item for walks. If he's big on toys you can also use a toy to reward for good behavior or distract him.

FOOD AGGRESSION: I can't recommend MINE! by Jean Donaldson enough. It's a wonderful resource, with easy to follow step by infinitesimal step to help your dog be more comfortable with you around his food. Also, if you have a crate (or go get one), you can feed him and give him his extended chewing items in the crate.

IN GENERAL: It sounds like you've been doing everything right. If you get really frustrated don't be afraid to ask for more help. Sometimes training and time aren't enough to help our dogs. Do not be afraid to work with a Veterinary Behaviorist (not a person who calls themselves a behaviorist, or your general practitioner vet). Medication can HELP. If you have a continuously anxious dog, even at a low level, can cause chronic health issues for them (and since you're stressed because he is, you too). If after speaking with a veterinary behaviorist, they think medication can help, don't wait, go for it. The help of a veterinary behaviorist and medication has helped my dog become a happy dog, who can actually go out in public as long as no one tries to grab him, and can snooze in his crate while we have guests over.

u/Saydrah · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

Animal behaviorist. Call. Now. I could give you lots of advice, but the fact is, for the safety of your dogs, you need to bring in an expert immediately, and for the sake of every other pit owner, too.

You cannot afford to dick around when you have Pits behaving aggressively, because the one Pit who attacks someone or someone's kid or someone's dog often ruins things for every responsible pit owner in the city or county by being the central argument in favor of a pit bull ban. Never mind how many Golden Retrievers did the same thing last week-- the witchhunt for Pits is "in," and if your dogs get out of hand, you're likely to lose them and they're likely to lose their lives.

Also, buy this book:

You most likely have two fairly benign resource guarders who will be straightened out with some simple behavior modification. But don't take any chances. Get a professional in ASAP.

u/Volkodavy · 3 pointsr/dogs
u/AddChickpeas · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

I don't have much experience with resource guarding personally, but I've seen Mine! by Jean Donaldson recommenced a bunch of times. It's like 100 pages and is supposed to give a great overview of the issue and how to handle it. You can get the kindle version for like $9.

u/263248 · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

He's resource guarding technically, so look for specific things about that. This book is highly recommended. Seems like he's anxious as well. Good for you for trying to nip it quick.

u/freemoney83 · 3 pointsr/germanshepherds

Its very easy. Your BEST bet would to be to hire a behaviorist. Other wise the book Mine! is a good book and there is lots of info on the internet.

u/norberthp · 3 pointsr/dogs

Yes, that's resource guarding.

This book might be helpful. This going to be something you want to start working with immediately so it doesn't progress any further.

u/RuskiesInTheWarRoom · 3 pointsr/dogs

This book, Mine!, is about the only thing that we found that helped us outside of meeting with a behaviorist (which was also very helpful).

It certainly is something that can be dealt with.

u/Zeusa · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

Sounds like your dog is a resource guarder. The good news is that this is fixable. Get the book "Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs" by Jean Donaldson. Short, easy to follow steps. Highly recommend.

u/efletch · 2 pointsr/reactivedogs

Sorry you had a rough weekend. Two things that stand out from you post is that your dog is overaroused outside and has resource guarding issues.

Resource guarding is pretty common, dogs either guard from humans or other dogs or both. Dogs can guard food, toys, spaces (bed, couch etc), people and more. Since it is so common there are a lot of resources out there. Start with the book Mine! to learn about resource guarding and how train it.

As for the overarousal outside I recommend the Relaxation Protocol. It is amazing! Here is a writeup about what it is and some mp3 files that talk you through the process. Start inside your house and then slowly work you way outside (backyard or low distraction area first).

Working with a trainer is a great idea. Make sure they've worked with these issues before. There are plenty of good trainers who can teach a dog to sit or come but don't have experience with behavioral issues. How may resource guarding clients have they had? What was the outcome? Would they be ok with you contacting a previous client who had resource guarding issues as a referral? It is great that you recognize there is a problem and you're willing to work it. It is not too late to start training and helping Maya :)

u/socialpronk · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

Guarding is a normal dog behavior, but is definitely unwanted. I don't believe that any dog should ever allow another dog to take their chew or toy, so mainly I focus on making sure dogs can enjoy their chew in peace. Other pets are not allowed to approach one who has a chew. Anyway, guarding becoming scarily common in Goldens. Check out the book Mine! by Jean Donaldson, you'll find a wealth of great tips and advice.
Management is going to be extremely important. Don't let your dog have an opportunity to guard.

u/BlueBG82 · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

This book may also be a good thing to read.

u/OkayBai · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

Here is a great book on Resource guarding.

u/BoundingBorder · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

Mine! would be a very good idea to read and put into practice. It's a comprehensive guide to resource guarding.

u/KestrelLowing · 2 pointsr/dogs

I would suggest reading the book "Mine". It's all about resource guarding and while I haven't read it yet (it's in my queue!) it's highly recommended by most.

Another book you might consider is "Fight" this one is all about dog-dog aggression and I believe covers resource guarding from other dogs as well.

But, first things first, try to manage the situation first. This means no longer leaving food out, as annoying as that is. Everyone now has to have set meal times - preferably with the lab away from everyone else or at least in a crate.

Do not use a shock collar. All it will do will put more stress on an already stressed dog and may even make the resource guarding worse. It won't be fixing the core of the problem which is really what you want to try to do.

u/magnoliafly · 2 pointsr/corgi

Any dog can resource guard and you can accidentally train a puppy to resource guard if you aren't careful. Jean Donaldson wrote a wonderful book on how to tackle resource guarding if you happen to have a dog that does it with toys, people, food or places.

If you aren't comfortable with how the shelter screens potential families then you might not want to get a dog. Shelters are working hard to prevent dogs from being returned numerous times because families really don't seem to understand breed tendencies and always go on "oh he's cute" rather than get an idea of what the dogs behavior is actually like. They work hard to match you to the best dog for your family and lifestyle. A good corgi breeder will do the same thing and will want to get to know you and your family before placing a dog in your home. Likewise with a corgi rescue. If you aren't willing to go through that process please don't get a purebred dog at all.

I don't recommend getting a corgi from a backyard breeder or a pet store because you'll end up with some very expensive vet bills and quite possibly some expensive dog training bills in the end. I worked as a dog trainer for a number of years and I could spot the pet store and backyard breeder puppies a mile away. Owners had the same complaints - couldn't potty train, the puppies were sick when they came home or shortly after and were always having behavior issues like biting people and children.

If you have a family with a small child I recommend getting an older corgi from a rescue that is at least 2 years old. Their personality and behavior will be fully set and you will know exactly what you are getting. The rescue should help you figure out if it is a good fit for your home.

As far as a corgi as a running partner I caution you against running a corgi or any dog constantly on pavement. Dogs put a lot of pressure on their knees and shoulders and pavement running just isn't good for them or their paw pads. If you are going to run with your corgi do it on grass or dirt.

I wrote a guideline on how to find a good corgi breeder and I suggest that any potential corgi owner read it.

u/JaggBoom · 1 pointr/dogs

Resource guarding. It's a very normal natural instinct for dogs, but a problem for owners.

Had he ever broken skin?

This is something you would want to call a trainer to come out to your house for. And keep separated from kiddos when they are over. There is a book that may help if you guys do want to work in it, but everybody in the house needs to be on the same page. Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs

Has she tried trading for a yummy treat away from the object so she can grab it?

u/nicedoglady · 1 pointr/reactivedogs

There are over the counter supplements and products you can try that may help such as: adaptil, calming care probiotic, zylkene, solliquin (l-theanine). They can help take the edge off for some anxious, stressed out, or freaked out dogs but they aren't true behavior medications.

When was the last time that the vet was consulted about medications? Does the vet know the real extent of these behaviors or were they downplayed a bit? At the end of the day, vets are not behavioral experts. I would recommend seeking out different opinions with a vet with behavioral knowledge and experience, or consult a veterinary behaviorist because its unfair to the cats, to you and your partner, and the dog to have this sort of stress in your day to day. If you want to pursue medication options, a Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist is a vet who has gone through additional behavior residency and has the best range of knowledge to prescribe, combine, taper on/off and transition medications.

The alpha thing is bunk nonsense in dog-human relationships. When you try to 'correct' her or try to get her to listen she's most likely just afraid and nervous and not as familiar with you, so she is running to the person she finds most comforting and trusts more. What region are you in? Perhaps there is a trainer or resource we can recommend to help.

I also read in your comments that you work from home and are therefore with her all the time - I'm betting that this is really, really exacerbating things. Its hard to work, relax, chill, have a good relationship with a dog that is putting you on edge all day and night! Have you explained this to your partner? Does he truly realize how challenging and exhausting this can be? I went through the same thing when we first adopted our dog because I was freelancing from home and with her 24/7 for nearly a year. It drove me bonkers and I was on edge - turned me into a reactive human! I recommend just taking a step back and finding an activity you and the dog enjoy doing together and spend some silly quality time with her. Could be blowing bubbles, cuddling, playing with some toy, making dumb noises, whatever.

And lastly - this is a really good, short read on Resource Guarding, which seems to be one of the primary issues you are dealing with. It is one of the most highly regarded resources on this issue so I would strongly recommend giving it a read!

u/aveldina · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

To second this, we use the same approach with an otherwise healthy foster dog who refuses to eat what is offered. We get donated food for foster dogs, I am not about to go out and buy expensive dog food unless there is a medical reason to do so. I'm not reimbursed unless it's vet recommended.

I put the food down, dog gets five minutes to show interest. Only longer if eating in a crate. Walk away from the food and I pick it up. That simple. You see this a lot in fat dogs that have trained people to give them table scraps, etc. Eventually, they'll figure it out.

All things good and all reinforcement comes from me. There's a book out there called "Mine!" that I've heard good things from others who have had to deal with resource guarding.

u/alithia · 1 pointr/dogs

The why is tricky because it varies from situation to situation - can you account for her training/socialization/etc prior to you having her? A lot of that stuff is developed in that first year.

The NILIF (Nothing in Life is Free) lifestyle is great for dogs that resource guard, because it teaches them that all good things come from you. Make sure you manage the environment so that she can't guard (pick up all toys, food, etc). In regard to people, obedience is the best bet, a solid leave it command, or go to bed can help alleviate these.

MINE! is a great book resource for possessive behaviours.

u/bockwursti · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

Def try to get this book:

It's great input and contains detailed training plans.

For the meantime avoid strangers playing with him.

u/1Saya · 1 pointr/shiba

Have you taught leave it and drop it? Both good things to work on. Coarse start with low value items. Worked well with my boxer she has even dropped a deer bone a coyote left in the field. Which before she'd get all upset.

Resource guarding is natural behavior some dogs do it more than others. It can be with space, toys, and commonly food especially high value food.

Whats more awesome than steak.. Saya my shiba loves meat.. she is raw fed so she could tell ya it's yummy. She does not resource guard, but my boxer does. I've worked on her leave it, drop it and on trading for it. She has improved over time.

This book covers resource guarding I'd recommend checking the book out.

u/jellofiend84 · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

There is a great book on treating resource guarding: Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs

I suspect you are correct about where he got the behavior from, if he was in a home with other dogs and they were fed close together rather than in separate rooms it could lead to issues.

The important thing is not to push your dog, a growl is unpleasant but it is how dogs can tell us "back off" before having to escalate to something like biting or snapping. You shouldn't punish growling, that will only lead to dogs escalating to something more severe like biting without giving you any warning.

u/spidermilk666 · 0 pointsr/dogs

Taking food from a dog MAKES A DOG possessive of all food. It can lead to really dangerous stuff like the dog biting anyone who reaches towards their food. Unless it is a DIRE EMERGENCY- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TAKE FOOD FROM A DOG. Do not bother a dog who is eating, do not approach a dog who is eating, just leave eating dogs alone!

Step 1 is to not put any food anywhere the dog could get it. This isn't hard- I have a dog that can easily reach every counter in my house and I can keep all food out of his reach- the dog should never get food unless you gave it to him intending for him to eat it. Accidents might happen, and I would just let the dog eat something in that case unless it is cleaning supplies/other poisons, cooked bones, grapes/raisins, chocolate or alcohol.

Step 2 is to always trade an even better treat if you really need to get something from your dog. This goes for ALL DOGS, even dogs who have never been food possessive before. For example, say my dog is chewing a knucklebone I gave him but it is time for me to take it away. I call my dog into the other room and give him some really good treats (like chicken) and then while he is not looking I scoop up the knucklebone. A two person system can be useful to distract the dog.

Third- teach the dog leave-it. There are many videos of this on youtube. This can allow you to teach the dog the food is not for him to take and keep him from getting food that he shouldn't have in the first place. You should reward your dog often for leave-it and leave-it is not for something already in your dog's mouth!

And the best resource on resource guarding (the formal name for what your dog is doing):