Reddit Reddit reviews MOUNTAIN 8205 R-134a Brass Manifold Gauge Set with Couplers

We found 5 Reddit comments about MOUNTAIN 8205 R-134a Brass Manifold Gauge Set with Couplers. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Automotive
Replacement Parts
Automotive Replacement Lighting & Electrical Equipment
Automotive Replacement Electrical Equipment
Automotive Replacement Instrument Panel Gauges
Automotive Replacement Gauge Sets
MOUNTAIN 8205 R-134a Brass Manifold Gauge Set with Couplers
Use with brass manifold body for best performanceFeatures automatic style couplers for easy attachmentComes with 60" yellow, blue and red hoseThis product is for applications of the R-134A refrigerant A/C systems. Is not designed for R-12/22 refrigerantsComes with easy to hang hook to keep it where you want itOne year warranty
Check price on Amazon

5 Reddit comments about MOUNTAIN 8205 R-134a Brass Manifold Gauge Set with Couplers:

u/theredkrawler · 7 pointsr/refrigeration

Without tools, the best you can really do is look for oiliness on the pipe. When you find a joint that feels oily (look for dark colours on the pipe, usually covered in very fine dust. Once you rub the dusty area with your fingers you'll feel the oiliness), spray/pour a small amount of washing up liquid over it and look for bubbles. If there's any refrigerant left in the system, you'll usually see bubbles appear (or over a longer period, foam). Of course if the gas has all escaped already - and we're only talking a couple of hundred grams here - then you won't see any bubbles.

Most domestic gear has no access fitting at all so even locating the leak can be difficult if there's no visual indication. You need to get pressure in there so you can leak test - this means adding a bullet piercing valve (like this).

Then you need to put something in via your bullet piercing valve to raise the system pressure. It's best to use dry nitrogen to leak test to save wasting refrigerant, but since you most likely don't have that on hand you could buy yourself some refrigerant (most likely R134a) and pressurise with that. That's a big no-no here (both disposable cylinders and dumping gas to atmosphere by charging a system with a known leak) but I'm guessing your in the US, and those sorts of laws seem remarkably lax so go for gold. It's not like you'll be ruining MY ozone layer too, right? ;)

You also need to regulate the pressure going in to the system. This is where you need gauges. Connect the yellow line to your bottle, connect the blue line loosely to your bullet piercing valve, purge from cylinder to piercing valve by opening the cylinder tap + gauges tap, and releasing some pressure via the loose fitting, then tighten the fitting and close your gauges tap. Open the bullet piercing valve. Open the gauges tap slowly and give it ~50psi of system pressure.

Then you can go for gold with your soap, or you can lash out and grab yourself some "proper" leak detection fluid (like this), or better yet an electronic leak detector (like this one).

Once you've found your leak, you want to release your nitrogen (or reclaim your refrigerant using a reclaim plant and a spare cylinder), then repair it using an oxy/acetalyne set, or since it's only tiny pipework you can get away with a MAPP gas set.

If it's a copper->copper joint, you're laughing - polish the pipework up with emery cloth, heat the pipe until it's just this side of glowing red, and feed the joint with brown tip silver solder.

If it's a copper->steel joint, then it's a bit more of a pain. You need blue tip silver solder and flux. Clean your joint with the emery cloth, give it a nice coating of flux on every surface you need solder to stick to, then heat it up until it's a fair way short of glowing red. Feed the blue tip solder in and STOP. Unlike brown tip (15% silver) you can't just keep feeding blue tip (45% silver) as it ruins the weld.

Now, since you put on a bullet piercing valve and they leak like a sieve in the long term, we need to replace that with a schrader access valve. Since it's most likely going to be in a straight through piece of pipe, you can save time and grab yourself a pre made access valve in 1/4" pipe. Cut away the hole left by the bullet piercing valve, polish the copper and cut the pipework with a ~10mm gap using a tube cutter. Then slip your access fitting assembly in there, and follow the copper->copper joint procedure.

Of course, now that we've done all that you need to change the liquid line filter drier too. I'd recommend a 1/4" solder in core drier in place of the original copper spun drier because... well, copper spun driers are terrible. Follow the pipe cutting procedure from the piercing valve instructions and the soldering instructions from the copper->copper joint instructions and that's done too. Remember - always try and mount the drier so it's outlet is LOWER than its inlet. This turns the drier into a small liquid receiver and helps ensure a good liquid seal over the capillary tube. Speaking of capillary tubes, if it was inserted straight into the original copper spun drier CUT the capillary, don't try and unsweat it. The chances of blocking it up are about 82.5634% (approximately) when you unsweat capillarys. You're much better off chopping it with a set of capillary tube cutters and ensuring a good clean capillary. The ~30mm of wasted capillary will affect performance, but almost certainly not to any sort of measurable degree.

Then give the system a good evacuation using a vacuum pump and ensure it reaches a good vacuum (sub-500 micron) with a digital vacuum gauge.

Then using a set of electronic scales, charge your freshly evacuated system (remembering to purge!) to the charge recommended by the manufacturer.

Voila! You have just fixed your chest freezer.

..... Alternatively, pay someone to do it for you and/or recycle the components and buy yourself a new one.

u/video_descriptionbot · 2 pointsr/AutoDIY

SECTION | CONTENT
:--|:--
Title | How to Properly Recharge Your AC System
Description | Recharge your AC system properly. I go though all of the steps on how to safely recharge your air conditioning system with refrigerant. First you need to evacuate the system, then pull a vacuum, and then add the correct amount of refrigerant based on weight. Manifold gauge set: http://amzn.to/29fZqu1 AC vacuum pump http://amzn.to/29nr6xS Refrigerant (with no oil or sealers): http://amzn.to/1WMjvuS Refrigerant Can Tap: http://amzn.to/20vQFxc Scale to weigh Refrigerant: http://amzn.to/1TrEQbs Ho...
Length | 0:13:09






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^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^Info ^| ^Feedback ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)

u/imprl59 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

$60ish on Amazon

Unless you're really looking to dig in and learn and aren't afraid of spending $300+ in tools you'll be better off to just drop it by an auto a/c specialty shop to have it diagnosed and repaired. Most commonly the system has developed a leak which has to be identified and repaired then the system has to be vacuumed down and recharged by weight.

u/gimpwiz · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Thanks! Would the gauge set I linked work for me?

u/sbonds · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Your first diagnostic should be to check the high/low pressure to make sure the compressor is compressing something.

Get one of these (or similar): http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-8205-R-134a-Manifold-Couplers/dp/B000JFHNG0

A good book for learning about how the A/C (and everything else) works is this: http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Technology-4th-James-Halderman/dp/0132542617 ($110) No, it's not cheap-- but if it saves you even one mechanic visit, it will pay for itself.

The service manual for your Civic will have specifics of the pressures you want to see, but the short version is you want to ensure that the base pressure is roughly equal to the vapor pressure of the refrigerant at the ambient temperature. On the gauge set I have this is conveniently included on the gauge itself. The low and the high port should read the same pressure when you start. If not, perhaps the engine hasn't been sitting long enough after having the AC on?

If the pressure is lower than the normal vapor pressure of the refrigerant (less than the 60-80psi range depending on temperature) then STOP. Do not add more refrigerant. You have air in the system which needs to be sucked out with a vacuum pump before you proceed. You probably want a pro to handle that for you and there are likely some other components to be replaced as well.

This guy has great writeup of the recharging process:

http://blarg.introspect.net/cars/7