Reddit reviews NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS105NA) - Desktop, and ProSAFE Limited Lifetime Protection

Get a 5 port netgear 10/100/1000 switch. $35

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3

The IT department has their own DHCP server which assigns internal IP address for the devices on their network. The router also has a DHCP server, and it was probably configured. The problem here is that devices will connect to the router, get a valid IP from the router only, and not see school's network. It's a big problem.

The router can be configured (I believe) to forward on DHCP requests, but I think it's better that you get a simple 5-port switch. They might be able to provide such a thing (maybe not, given their unwillingness to help so far), or you could buy one for cheap.

So, I'd remove the router, tell them that you need a switch since you only have one port in the office and have x many devices that need to be connected. If they can't give you that, maybe just buy it.

Not OP, but we've deployed Ubiquiti products in a few of our enterprise customers and it is running great. I am not sure how much you already know about networking, but I'll explain for anyone else reading.

First, some background to fully understand what it is you are trying to do. The thing that most consumers call "routers" are really three things: a router, a switch, and an access point. TLDR the router portion is the thing that actually moves traffic between machines, the switch extends how many physical ethernet ports you have, and the access point gives you wifi.

The Ubiquiti Access Points (UAP) are just access points. You will still need a router to route traffic, and your consumer one will work just fine for most people. If you are looking to get something more SOHO, Ubiquiti also makes their own router/firewall (check out USG, or ideally EdgeRouter). For all intents and purposes, it is a pretty good idea to separate the roles of your network (physical appliances for the router, firewall, wireless, etc...), and you can have as many UAP's as you'd like for wireless. The UAP's run off of Ubiquiti's 24V Power-over-Ethernet (POE), which can be provided via a POE injector or with a Ubiquiti Switch (either Unifi or EdgeMax). So for a basic network, you'll disable the wireless functionality on your consumer router, and plug a UAP into a port (obviously you'll need to pass it through the POE injector first). Rinse and repeat for however many UAP's you want, maybe another one on the other side of the house for example.

The UAP is pretty useless on its own, though. It needs a piece of software called the Unifi Controller. The software is free, and you can run it on Windows, Linux, or with Ubiquiti's appliance called the Cloud Key. Within Unifi Controller, you'll setup the UAP's; e.g. setting the visible wifi name (SSID), security, channels, etc... It isn't too complicated, the interface is really intutive and anyone who is even slightly technical could figure it out. The controller also serves another really important feature, which is zero-handoff. As long as the controller is running, your device will connect to the access point with the best signal. This is the seamless switching you asked about.

Ubiquiti also is focused on mesh networking, although we are generally pretty against that for businesses for reliability reasons. Of course, the exception to that is Cisco Meraki, which is a hybrid that will self-heal. If you lie and say you are an IT professional, you can get a free Meraki with a 3 year license. Just make sure that you follow the rules.

As a note, I would stick to the UAP AC's. They are the newer version and run great. For consumers, the UAP-AC-LITE is going to work fine. Obviously there is more to networking and wireless solutions than what I went over here, but this is the general gist of it.

Any unmanaged switch from fairly well known brands will be fine. I recommend Netgear — the metal ones, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3/

I had issues with TPLink and DLink and older plastic Netgear ones (actively avoid those— they like to hang under certain conditions)— even though you might think that switch technology should have been polished by now.. turns out it isn’t.

How many more ports do you need? (Now, and say for the next year or two, looking ahead?)

Five ports: (leaves your four ports to work with, since one port is used to connect to your router)

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https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG105/dp/B00A128S24/ref=zg_bs_281414_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XF6W03YMBKHZVSTYKM35

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8 ports (leaves you seven to use for your devices)

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https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00KFD0SEA/ref=zg_bs_281414_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XF6W03YMBKHZVSTYKM35

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Another five port, all metal case, lifetime warranty (not a big deal)

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https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=zg_bs_281414_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XF6W03YMBKHZVSTYKM35

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What console are you using? Generally in a situation like this you want a small unmanaged network switch so that your router isn’t a single point of failure for show data. Netgear 5 port gigabit switches are like $30-40 and worth it.

So your map would be a wheel with three spokes: console, router, and node, all directly connected to your network switch.

And though it isn’t a big deal with a small network like this, it’s good to limit the number of choke points in your system. If you’re running everything directly through your router, you have to count on it to successfully and quickly relay all of that show data, and it might not be very good at that, many routers only have 100/mb/s network ports. Also if someone unplugs the router, your show will go down.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS105NA) - Desktop, and ProSAFE Lifetime Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yjV0CbKGVJ63Q

What you are looking for is called a switch.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427551913&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+switch

Get yourself a little switch like this. At least when I was there, they didn't care if you had a switch / hub inplace, they just got angry with routers. 1gpbs may be overkill if drexel isn't offering 1gb to the room, you can save 10 bucks or so with the 10/100 switch.

I have a Netgear GS105 and it works fine. Amazon

You need to purchase a small ethernet switch like this:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1496096921&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet+switch

Plug all the cables (Roku, PC, connection to router) into the switch and you will be good to go.

Simple. What you want is something like a 5-port Switch.

example

Edit: accidentally linked a 10/100Mb switch first time. You'll want Gigabit.

This is product I would recommend. Plug your Ethernet cable into the working wall jack, and then the other end into port 1 on the switch. You can now connect 4 more devices to the remaining ports on the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3

CAT5e splitters will only link two devices as 10/100Mbps

If your computer is set, or trying to negotiate at 1000Mbps, it will not work - you can try to force it to 100Mbps in the settings.

Better than a CAT5e splitter is to buy a cheap switch...
This is the correct way to get more Ethernet ports out of one run...
Example: http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3

"I'm about ready to cry, jack off, cry, and go to sleep" ...well that's might be fun, but it's not going to help the situation any.

Buy an inexpensive 5 or 8 port switch.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3

Yea you got it. The modem gives internet and that connects to the USG which is a firewall/router. From there you connect the switch into the USG. Then the switch into the AC Pro. And if you have other wired devices they connect to the switch.

Modem --> USG --> Switch --> AC Pro

I would recommend you get an unmanaged switch since it seems you may not need the extra options of a managed switch

Just pull a network cabel from your router to your counter. Buy a small 5 port switch and plug that cable and the two cables from that computer and CCmachine into that switch. Your cable can be up to 300ft long.

Dont get a powerline adapter, just go from the Router into the wall, then patch that line into a 5 port gigabit switch, like a netgear or something. Then you can patch the rest of the wall RJ-45's to the switch.

edit: This is what you want... Netgear

A simple, unmanaged switch will work fine. Netgear is a good choice. Gigabit speed, metal case, lifetime warranty. Like this:

[Netgear GS105](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3?aaxitk=Xekmbr5YXPQy1qtRc8A0-g&pd_rd_i=B0000BVYT3&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3ff6092e-8451-438b-8278-7e94064b4d42&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_i=netgear+switch&hsa_cr_id=1113147310301&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=NETGEAR%205-Port%20Gigabit%20Ethernet%20Unmanaged%20Switch%2C%20Sturdy%20Metal%2C%20Desktop%2C%20Plug-and-Play%2C%20ProSAFE%20Lifetime%20Protection%20(GS105NA)

You can add more switches. Get a unnmanaged gigabit switch and that's basically all you need. This is what I have running at my friend's place and I set it up about 2 years ago with no complaints since.

I'm not sure how cheap you can really go with these, I see under 20 options on Amazon - maybe someone else can chime in?

This guy gave terrible advice. You're already behind a router and adding another is going to mess up your NAT. If the UNI allows you to have multiple devices on the network then you just need to buy a cheap switch. I highly recommend https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465900519&sr=1-1&keywords=Net+gear+prosafe+5+port

Bluetooth is likely less reliable and slower than WiFi. I don’t know how apps would work but they’re probably more limited as well (e.g. no automations).

If it’s about the Ethernet port you should probably get an Ethernet switch. This one isn’t the cheapest but I know it works well.

Honestly I don't really understand what you try to do but if you want to have ethernet cables go from your router to you pc and Xbox over the same cable I would suggest you get a switch, it basically turns 1 cable into multiple cables, that way you'll have internet access on both your pc and xbox and they can also communicate over your local network.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000BVYT3/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504975974&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lan+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41trKxv8qKL&ref=plSrch
(I'm on mobile so I can't make the text the link xD)

Edit: actually now I just realized you probably want your pc that is on WiFi to share its connection with your Xbox over a cable, if that is the case why not just use the WiFi from the Xbox? As it is the same thing (maybe even faster) as using your pc as a repeater.

I recommend this little dude.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000BVYT3

I understand if you want to save money. But if you bought https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_1 instead, they're higher quality and last forever (in my experience).

Please note: the link above is for the GS10X series. Netgear also make a GS30X with crappy components for half the price, just like the D-Link you mentioned.

> So to make sure I understand, I'd buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3

Yep that would work fine. Just make sure you have enough ports. I count at least 6 cables so you might want an 8 port switch.

> The router in my living room would then plug into one of the CAT5E wall jacks, which I'd then patch to the switch in the connection panel. Then all of the rooms I want active will also plug into the switch. Is that right?

Yes, exactly.

I've had the Netgear switches and love them. You could just get the 5 port one that would give you a total of 8 free ports between it and your current router or spend a little bit more for the 8 port version giving you plenty of room for future expansion. I own both and my 5 port GS105 has been running pretty much non-stop for 10 years.

Get either a 5 port or 8 port Netgear Gigabit switch depending on how many devices you need. If you have 5 devices, get the 8 port because one of the ports will be used by the connection to the wall.

Don't get a super cheap one. They don't last.

5 port: https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502858441&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+gigabit+switch

8 port: https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Lifetime-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502858441&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+gigabit+switch

Not the cheapest, but they'll last and won't give you any problems. Make sure you get network cables to go along with them. Buy them on Amazon, not the local super store. They'll be 1/10th the price on Amazon as they will be at Best Buy or whatever.

Specifically for your application, you may or may not see any difference. You will however see a huge difference in scenarios when you are moving large chunks of data, such as: backup library over network. 10/100 is very, very, annoyingly slow. It does make sense to invest in gigabit switch. You can get these for pretty cheap these days:

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449549866&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+switch
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS105NA-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449549866&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+switch

imho, gigabit is not only worth it, it's minimum level

You could get a small 4 port gigabit switch for fairly cheap ($20-30 maybe?). Plug in a ptach cord to your jack, then connect your desktop and router and you're all set.

Here's a fairly cheap one on Amazon

You can get a cheap wifi router for probably the same cost as well, you don't need the highest quality since it's just going to be for the echo's connection.

Just buy a roll of this and run it to the room you would like to use it in.

To make it pretty, I would run the 100ft cable to the back of this

Get two more smaller Ethernet cables, run one from the outlet into this switch (any port on it) if you want more ports in the other room, and then the other short cable from the switch to your PC.

This would be the best, most professional way of getting Ethernet into your room. It'll be much more stable and provide better performance than a WiFi dongle.

This is one I use for a few smart devices. Works great:
NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch, (GS105NA)

What you need is a network switch like this:
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3/
Plug cable from other room, laptop, and desktop in to this.

Better to get a cheap switch to split the wired connection and then hang a cheap access point off of it. Or just run the router upstairs/mount it to the ceiling. Something.

One like https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485968055&sr=1-4&keywords=switch is what you are looking for.

We use these at work and they work pretty well.

EDIT - Changed the built in blind link to the full amazon link so you would know its safe to click on.

Netgear or Linksys would be my choice.

This Netgear is only 10/100, but it's $20.

This Linksys is only 10/100, but it's a few bucks cheaper.

If you want gigabit, you could get yourself this Netgear 10/100/1000 for $35. There's also an 8 port option on that page for $50.

Any of those should work great for what you're doing.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B0000BVYT3?th=1

This is a nice cheap switch. It requires no setup, you simply plug all three computers into it and plug in the power supply for the switch.

Nice and easy :D

Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347764&sr=1-3&keywords=5+port+gigabit

The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500Mhz-Copper-Ethernet/dp/B008I8AJIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347852&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr

I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping. Patch cables are super cheap, are certified for the speed, and in most cases save you time and money vs crimping your own.

Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459348192&sr=1-1&keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool

Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE

https://imgur.com/9vhZYS1

Splitters dont work! I found that out and we fixed it by buying a network switch instead and connecting it to the port, now we all have wired connection here!

We bought this switch https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538244576&sr=8-3&keywords=netgear+prosafe&dpID=41trKxv8qKL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I install these for clients ALL THE TIME

NetGear Unmanaged Switch

Get the Netgear metal 5-port switch. Affordable and reliable.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS105NA) - Desktop, and ProSAFE Limited Lifetime Protection

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aHtCDbSWAEBP0

It’s a dumb. Netgear gs105

3,100 amazon reviews at 4.5

Very well known stable switch. It’s even the newer v3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LYQJDbM4ANZY2

Ok I get what you're saying now.

If everything is working fine in the theater, I don't think you gain much by moving the cable modem behind there.

One other option, instead or unning a cable, is to use something like these Moca Boxes. This would allow you to create a network connection using your homes Coax cable. (if you've ever used a powerline ethernet box, its a similar idea, you put one box downstairs, and plug into coax, put another box upstairs and hook into coax. both boxes also have a network port and will link together). So in your case, put a moca box near the theater TV, put another upstairs, hook network cable from moca into router/switch downstairs. Upstairs, hook that moca box into the ubiquiti injector, and then hook the injector into the access point. You could try this route first, if it doesn't work, send the MOCA boxes back and then run a cable.

The only time this doesn't work is if you have cable or direct TV, and use a "whole home DVR" which also uses a MOCA connection, as they will likely interfere with each other. (although some have been able to get it to work)

As far as switches, you don't need to spend a lot, I really like the Netgear switches for the price. Something like this should work fine.

A network-switch ?... http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411334491&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+4port

That's the thing, it's rated for that. The amazon page for the router, seen here, says specifically "Gigabit wired - Ideal for HD gaming & video". Even so, would an Ethernet hub solve the issue? This, for example?

Assuming I am understanding you correctly, what you actually need to maximise the available wired and WIFI bandwidth of everything is a 4/5 port gigabit network switch (about $30) to share the single ethernet cable coming from your router in the kitchen (which I presume has gigabit capable ethernet ports) between your laptop, PS4 and Xbox (they're all in the same room at the other end of that ethernet cable coming from the Kitchen right??). Then If you have Windows 10 installed on the laptop with the laptop connected to the network switch you can create a wireless Hotspot with the WIFI chipset inside your laptop that will transmit direct to your GO in the same room eliminating all the signal degradation caused by the walls/floors between your GO and WIFI router in the kitchen. In other words, this gives your laptop, PS4 and Xbox wired gigabit network access and free's up the WIFI chipset in the laptop to broadcast a direct rock steady high-speed WIFI hotspot to the GO. The reason you started getting VD hiccups is that with the laptop communicating with the router in the kitchen via WIFI instead of wired last night, it was now battling with the GO for WIFI bandwidth from the kitchen router nevermind also battling the same signal degradation issues as the GO caused by the walls/floors between GO, Laptop and Router. My suggested solution eliminates all those issues and the only purchase needed is a $30 4/5 port gigabit network switch.

I've done something similar as my Router is in the kitchen 2 floors below. My bedroom VR PC is on a wired gigabit connection that goes through my houses 24port gigabit switch and then on to the router in the kitchen below. The difference is my Desktop VR PC had no built in WIFI chipset so I bought one of those USB3 WIFI AC dongles that plugs into my VRPC and broadcasts the Hotspot for my GO that I use from my bed at the other end of the room. You shouldn't need to buy one of those however because your laptop already has a WIFI chipset built into it. Even if you don't have Windows 10, there are free apps afaik that will allow you to create a mobile hotspot from your laptop. I didn't deeply research those because I didn't need to so you'll have to use your own Google-Fu for that. I'm getting a rock steady 400mbps between my PC WIFI Hotspot and GO and the only reason I'm not getting 800mbps+ over 5ghz AC is that the drivers for my USB AC Dongle doesn't expose channel settings when it's used in hotspot mode. If it were, I'd be able to switch it from 20mhz wide channels to 40mhz wide channels and thus likely get 800mbps or more. However, the 400mbps is more than enough already. Put It this way, I'm streaming 6k video from SLR (ahem, cough) to my GO without issue.

Google Windows 10 mobile hotspot setup for instructions. 2 things not mentioned in the instructions that I had to do was I right clicked on the Mobile Hotspot entry in Network and Sharing and went to properties and changed a setting to WIFI AC only which meant the hotspot only broadcast a 5ghz network because My GO is in the same room so didn't want my GO reconnecting via the slower 2.4ghz band at any time. I also went to the power management tab and unclicked the 'Allow Windows to power down this device' setting.

I'm in work atm so cant go into exact detail or give detailed instructions but if you have any problems just ask here and I'll try and help out.

So, when you connect to the internet you get a single IP address. This means that in theory you can only have one computer connected to the internet.

A router works by combining all the in/out data to one simulated "computer" then separating it all out to each computer, that is why each router seems to be on a separate network. What you need is one router and then one "switch" or "Hub" or "dumb router".

Here is the one I use

Basically you hook one cable from the router to the 5th port and you turned a 4port router into a 7port router. The down side is that the 4 computers on the switch will have a limited total speed of 1000Mbps (unless you use a 100Mbps cable).

something like this?

I'd splurge a bit and get a Netgear, but otherwise, yeah, not that expensive and worth it.

This. It's not glamorous and won't show you pretty stats in your unifi controller, but the price is right and it's bulletproof.

NETGEAR GS105NA Prosafe 5-Port Gigabit Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5qUIyb8QDJYXN

If you can, always use cat6 cable. Just pull it outside through a pvc pipe or something to protect it. Then plug in a switch (ex http://amzn.com/B0000BVYT3) and plug in your devices into that + an access point for wireless. (http://amzn.com/B00DWFPDNO or http://amzn.com/B004XXMUCQ)

I use powerline for my desktop. These:

http://www.tp-link.com/lk/products/details/?model=TL-PA6010KIT

Depends on the wiring inside your house no no way to tell your throughput until you try it. Easy to set up, plugin both in the same room first, hit the encryption button and wait for them to pair. Then place them where you want. Do not plug into a power strip.

I get better thoughput than 802.11N wireless. Have not done any LAN tests but the utility says 300mpbs. I can stream video via Universal Media Server/DLNA to a PS3, that was impossible over wireless.

I have this Netgear switch that has worked well in both cold and hot weather. It's in a metal cabinet mounted on a pole near our maintenance building.

One trick I've learned is that if you're concerned about cold weather, put the equipment in a small cabinet and install an incandescent lightbulb in the cabinet. This will radiate enough heat to keep everything warm enough. A guy I know uses this trick to keep his plants alive in his garage over the winter.

I also just got through installing these babies to get connectivity to our bus garage and offices. The run is just over 1/10 of a mile, and I set them up as bridged so that equipment on the remote end still finds the main building's DHCP server. I could not be happier with their performance so far.

Will this Netgear switch be okay?

Also, since I plan to connect my MBP through my AC's wifi when it's finally setup, where should I be connecting my PS4 Pro? Should it connect through the switch as well? Or through the eth2 port? I just don't want to lose out on speed/be throttled. Thank you for your help!

Depends on the amount of ports on the modem. A network switch will let you plug a lot of them, however the more computers that use the internet on that one modem the slower the connection will get. While possibilities are infinite, most people can't use more than 50 in their house.

Thanks guys. Would the following be suitable?

Router:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HXT8EKE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AIOHTZZBTU79M

Basic Switch:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0000BVYT3/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

PoE Switch: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HXT8QKC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AV2NFXD9LK2MO

AP:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GBVMIWE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1Q9X3520XXYAO

I understand the feeling of being overwhelmed. There's a lot of terminology and acronyms that can trip someone up.

It may be helpful to look up network diagrams that simplify what goes where. Here is a decent diagram.

This one is a bit less beginner-friendly.

Here is one more that also has a guide.

Basically, you have Modem -> Router -> Client (printer, computer, etc) and often wifi clients like smartphones. I'd recommend getting an unmanaged switch to give you more spots to hardwire cat6 devices.

sorry, i put the wrong switch, it's this one that i got. By acting up i mean, some of my devices no longer see the ip cams, like my phone and one PC after I added the switch.

How are you connecting right now? Through WiFi or an ethernet cable? Plug the cable directly in to your computer and test the speed. Pick up a gigabit switch and hardwire your devices.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000BVYT3/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0000BVYT3&linkCode=as2&tag=httpwwwnico01-20

You need a network switch, like this one:

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS105NA)

I have a few of them that I use around the house, and so far have had really good luck with them. You can find cheaper network switches that are 10/100mpbs that would likely work just as well if you are just trying to split your internet connection.

Gigabit Switch

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unmanaged-Switching-Protection-TEG-S80G/dp/B001QUA6RA


OR

If you want something that WILL let you configure things for gaming (like QoS to keep say videos Netflix from undermining your gaming Overwatch traffic then you want a managed Switch) but they are much more expensive..

Check this out..

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Streaming-Advanced-Protection/dp/B01MU3GE5L/

I'm just trying to say, that you don't want to use two completely different power over ethernet devices in your house.

This would be a switch:
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3/

This is a power over ethernet adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/

There has to be a switch or hub somewhere. ethernet can't split into multiples without one. (Technically there is a way to split into 2 but nobody actually does that.)

Is there an attic? You might try looking around where the modem goes into the wall/ceiling.

And by switch I mean one of these not a light switch.
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3

You can buy a 30$ plug and play ethernet switch on stores like Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3

Thanks! So to make sure I understand, I'd buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3

The router in my living room would then plug into one of the CAT5E wall jacks, which I'd then patch to the switch in the connection panel. Then all of the rooms I want active will also plug into the switch. Is that right?

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345950806&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+switch

That's what I'm using. It came with our AT&T U-Verse set up. With U-Verse TV, you're basically streaming all your TV over the same network connection, but separate from your internet plan. But this little thing handles near countless hours of HD TV streaming, torrent downloading on my laptop, and Xbox LIVE. Been switched on and going almost non stop for half a year now.

If you're just looking for a standard unmanaged switch that will make everything work, a Netgear GS105 shouldn't let you down. The GS108 is the 8 port model in case you need more ports.

Nothing will beat a wired connection. And you will never get that download speed on wifi... You have no access to your basement or attic to run ethernet? 100 feet is cheap.... Pair it with a 5 port gb switch for your desk would be a nice upgrade if needed...


With ~40 feet of distance, and everything in between like walls and doors, even with the best USB or PCI adapter, there will be signal loss.

A good way to test and see connectivity is to use your cell phone where your PC is located... speedof.me in your web browser, or the Speed Test Ookla app... Also, I know on android, you can see the properties of the access point you are connected to and see the current speed you care connected at, ( n130, dual band n300, ac900~ish)

The Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I you linked would be a decent choice, especially being it has a better positionable antenna... Anything PCI and that type of antenna would be better than usb.

TP Link could work as well

I bought a gigabit switch, so hopefully that takes my modem out of the equation if that's the roadblock. I just use my cable modem which has 4 ports on it currently.

Has anyone told you that you are a badass lately? Because they really should. I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this stuff.

Does the switch need to be managed? My first thought was this, but I wasn't sure if that meant I can't setup a VLAN on it.

Would something like this work ? https://www.amazon.ca/GS105NA-Ethernet-Lifetime-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=asc_df_B0000BVYT3/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293008414058&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15510387690995594347&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000690&hvtargid=pla-369945022241&psc=1

Here's a good switch that I use for my computer setup in my room. They are pretty inexpensive and easy to setup!

You do not need the Edgerouter-x if you are also using the Netgear AC2600 Wireless router. Only one router is needed per LAN. You will run into issues if you introduce a second router without very specific configurations.

If you are using the Netgear AC2600 as your router, you will need (instead of the Edgerouter-x) an inexpensive unmanaged Gigabit switch. Netgear also makes reliable switches (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B0000BVYT3). Keep in mind that one of the Ethernet ports will have to be connected to the Netgear wireless router, so if you buy the 5 port switch, you will only be able to connect 4 devices. I recommend getting the 8 port switch (7 devices attached), as it's not much more expensive, and you'll have extra ports in case you add devices in the future.

The modem you linked should be more than enough for your internet connection. Double check with your ISP to make sure that they allow you to provide your own modem (Charter/Spectrum, Comcast/Xfinity, and most other cable ISP should allow you to bring your own modem)

This is what I'd typically implement in your situation. All of these pro safes come with lifetime warranties btw.Here you go. http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421437678&sr=1-2&keywords=switch+gigabit+5+port

>The black panel (patch panel?) connects to all Ethernet ports in the house

FWIW: If you have broadband internet service, and a router with ethernet jacks, plugging an ethernet cable from the router into each of those jacks will "turn on" the ports in each of the labeled rooms, letting you plug in computers and get internet without having to use WiFi.

If your router doesn't have enough ports, you can add an ethernet switch, plugging one end of an ethernet cable into a port on your router, the other end to any port on the switch. It'll act as a "splitter" and the other empty ports on the switch will now act as additional ports coming from your router.

This is my favourite switch. http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3

You're probably using a gateway, not a switch. What is the model number of your "switch?"

You need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_6

Something like:

https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=5+port+switch&qid=1551383930&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

It avoids the wireless deadzones.

Something like this or this should do the job pretty easily.

I now use cheap gigabit switches. I tend to use whatever I can find on sale.

So for the remote ones I get 5 port ones that are made out of metal and get for $20 - $25 each on sale.

Down the basement and in the computer room I use 24 port switches that were more expensive but not home and do NOT remember the brand.

But I look at switches as a commodity and brand means little. Kind of the polar opposite for mesh.

The five porters look like

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3

But I do NOT believe they are actually Netgear. But this does look exactly like them.

I usually buy a couple when I find them on sale and keep extras in the closet so we have when needed. BF is the best time to stock up for the year.

I’ve had one of these in service for the better part of 7 years with no issues whatsoever.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3

As an update I own these two switches - right now my setup under cable is modem - router/wifi/switch - NAS/5-Port Switch/8-Port Switch/Free (I think, I cannot recall, I do not think I have a 4th device hooked into it).

So their modem - pfsense - I am assuming this EdgerRouterPOE/8PortSwitch/5Port Switch/Ubiqiti AP

Am I missing something?

>Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347764&sr=1-3&keywords=5+port+gigabit

Same guts? I picked the plastic... cus Im cheap but mostly because I think the front ports look sloppy in a HT cabinet or on a desk.

>The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500Mhz-Copper-Ethernet/dp/B008I8AJIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347852&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr

Thanks! swapped for monoprice

>I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping.

ok then, I really wasn't looking forward to crimping a dozen cable but I felt like Ill have so much cat6 it would be a waste not to make my own.

>Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459348192&sr=1-1&keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool

So what your saying is most of these keytones labeled 110 will except a krohn style punch? Id like minimize my cost and the 110/66 punch I linked is basically in my hands, its still worth going with this other tool?

So should I bother with the crimper/rj45 ends at all? Just buy a pack of 3ft patch cables and be done with it?

>Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE
https://imgur.com/9vhZYS1

nice rack (giggity)

You can split using a 5-port gigabit unmanaged switch to split the connection somewhere before the two rooms. Something like this Netgear

Yes, that's what Gilly was suggesting. If you're going to go down the ERX path, you need to get a switch, or you won't have enough ports to work with.

But even if you get an all-in-one, a switch is a simple way to get more ports.

In fact, that's all a switch is (in simple setups like yours). It's nothing more than a cheap little device that gives your router more ports to work with.

Here's a perfectly fine one: https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491598413&sr=8-4&keywords=5+port+switch

Get something like this. Plug router A into that, then plug that into router B for WiFi and your PC and w/e else you have that can be hard wired.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I1PhDb42NG8FY

Something like this would work (its what i use). A gigabit switch wont slow you down at all and should be pretty future proof. You just run one cable from your modem to the switch (input 1) and then plug your PCs into the other inputs. I would recommend running 2 cables though, if you're already running one, putting a back up cable in isnt much more trouble and will save you a lot of time if your primary cable gets cut or chewed up or anything like that, your backup would already be installed.

"My question is, is there a way to take that one Ethernet connection that is going straight to the PC and put it into a splitter or something that allows me to have multiple Ethernet ports so I could hook up one to the desktop"

You can get a Switch. Yes like the person below stated. Think of it this way, if you want more then ONE computer to that area, why not have this person run 4 lines and then get a 4 Gang Wall Plate to the end of it.

So :

MODEM in room to >>>> Switch 4 port >>>> CABLE LINES RUN TO ROOM TO >>>>> $ Gang Wall Plate and 4 rj45 ends.

Also use for Cat 6 cable.

Best of both worlds, since most ISP router modems have like 4 ports in the back for multiple connections. Also if you hire this CABLE LAYER, tell him you will buy the cable (like the one above) and save yourself a surcharge. U bet you'd pay 150$ a box or more if they come in with it.

thats correct except for the terminology. A switch will route traffic to the appropriate destination, a hub will send all traffic to all connected destinations. Hubs are outdated, you do not want to buy a hub

I have something like this in my attic:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=twister_B01AKLC5NI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

you can connect your devices to any port, the switch will figure it out.

edit: to make it look official, you can get the right plates from home depot

wall plate: http://www.homedepot.com/p/CE-TECH-1-Port-Wall-Plate-White-5001-WH/206428112

which fits a jack like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/CE-TECH-Category-5e-Jack-White-5025-WH/204410615

My apologies, let me use an analogy: roads.

The road coming into your home can allow 15 trucks per second to bring goods into your home. These trucks could be netflix, email, porn, you name it. Anything that you view, is a car driving into your home. With that said, the road going out of your home is a like a single lane dirt road. Only 1 truck per second can bring goods out of your home. Examples are video calls or files you upload to Dropbox. Think of these two roads as North/South on a turnpike.

Imagine, once inside your home, that the roads are huge. They can accommodate 1,300 trucks per minute, but those trucks have to be from at least 2013, otherwise you can only get about 300-600 per minute. 300-600 per minute is still a lot of trucks considering that only 15 per minute can enter the home and only 1 per minute can leave it.

Where am I going with this? Realize that you don't need to get hung up on speed with routers because in your situation they will be the fastest part of the setup. The bottleneck will be the shitty TW connection :-(

The biggest benefit to you, that I can see, is the range. If you have have a big apartment or will move into on within the next year or two, get an Extreme (hell I'd get one anyway for 129, even a previous generation extreme can be found for $40-$50). If you're price sensitive, an express will serve you well, just be sure that you get a splitter which is referred to as a switch. I prefer Netgear switches, and have had the big brother to this one for about 5 years.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSafe-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409928689&sr=8-1&keywords=5+port+netgear+gigabit+switch

I just realized one thing, TW usually rents out a combination modem/router. Are you getting one of those or are you buying a separate modem and router instead?

Sounds like your cabling to the jacks supports gig. I agree with the previous posts and you should bite the bullet and run new drops.

If you want to be cheap, get some cheap unmanaged gig switches and put at each drop where you need more than one device. Get something like this Netgear switch.

TL/DR: a bit of background and personal experience ultimately suggesting that you run some network cable, and look into a full Ubiquiti setup with USG router, PoE switch & NanoHD Wi-Fi AP’s for around $400 including cabling, provided you’re not planning on upgrading your internet to faster than 1Gbps soon.


I’m not familiar with coax cable internet, but assume you can get some sort of Ethernet handoff from your modem?


Either way, make the effort and run some CAT6 cabling for Wi-Fi AP’s, and key devices too if possible.


My network setup in my 1150 square foot apartment, works perfectly on my 200Mbps fibre connection and would cost you around $483 for the following:

• Router: MikroTik RB3011 ($150) - https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB3011UIAS-RM-RouterBOARD-10xGigabit-Ethernet/dp/B01EL7TF9E
  
  
  
• Wi-Fi: 2x Ubiquiti NanoHD’s ($149 each)- https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Compact-802-11ac-Enterprise-UAP-NanoHD-US/dp/B07DWW3P6K
  
  
  
• Switch: Netgear 5-Port gigabit unmanaged Switch ($35) - https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3
  
  
  I host the Ubiquiti Controller on a Windows PC acting as my home storage & media server and keep this running as a service (not necessary I know, but I like the stats).
  
  
  My network serves a mixture of around 30 devices, consisting of phones, tablets, computers, my home storage & media server, IoT devices, home theatre & TV’s all whilst doing some online gaming myself in the mix without hiccup. Hiccups are generally self-induced by my fiddling on the network. But from a stability and capability aspect, it’s perfect for me.
  
  
  I’ve previously used the “cheaper” MikroTik RB2011 ($102), which could also work for you - https://www.amazon.com/MikroTik-RB2011UiAS-RM-Routerboard-Rackmount-5xGbit/dp/B00DYWE2Z0
  
  
  However, if you you were already considering Ubiquiti Wi-Fi AP’s, then possibly consider going with a full Ubiquiti setup, by getting one of their routers & Wi-Fi AP’s? Ubiquiti’s UniFi range is quite impressive and I too like the commercial appeal of their products, so I’m slowly shifting my network over to a full Ubiquiti one (don’t tell my wife). A Ubiquiti setup could cost you between $384 with 1 AP and $533 with 2 AP’s... (although I feel you may need at least 2 AP’s)... excluding the cost of the cabling needed.
  
  
  But if I were you, I’d look into a setup like:
  
  
  
• Router: UniFi Security Gateway USG (+/- $128) - https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK
  
  
  
• Switch: UniFi 8-Port PoE Switch (+/- $107) -
  https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-60W-US-8-60W/dp/B01MU3WUX1
  
  
  
• And at least 1 Wi-Fi AP: UniFi NanoHD ($149) - https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Compact-802-11ac-Enterprise-UAP-NanoHD-US/dp/B07DWW3P6K
  
  
  If you could, the more robust UniFi USG-Pro 4 (tad bit expensive) would be a great router as I’ve read that the standard USG can cause speed issues with speeds above 500Mbps, when enabling nice-to-have features like its Deep Packet Inspection (DPI) and Intrusion Prevention System (IPS). These features are not necessary, but nice if you’re like me and like the stats and functionality they bring.
  
  
  
• USG-Pro 4 ($379) - https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG-PRO-4/dp/B019PBEI5W
  
  
  Good luck and enjoy the setup once you decide and get the kit. Always fun setting up a new network gear.
  
  
  edit:
  
  
• fixed typos and sentence structure.
  
  
• forgot I had a 5-port Netgear switch. Added that info & updated prices.
  
  
• fixed link for RB3011.

You could actually make that run with Ethernet no problem. I believe the max run for cat6 is something like 330 feet. You can even buy shielded cable and run it through conduit. Mesh systems are awesome (I have an Orbi), but they wouldn’t work well in long horizontal runs, such as this. Check out Blue Jeans Cable and they can build exactly what you need and confirm your setup would be ok. I’d buy a 5 port switch to put in your office- you’ll have all the connectivity you need.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, Sturdy Metal, Desktop, Plug-and-Play, ProSAFE Lifetime Protection (GS105NA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_QuawDbBWXVBW8

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/

up to 100mbps

up to 1gbps

I personally have that Netgear one and it's been online for months without getting switched off. Rock solid.

So, depending on how technical you are, I'd go with this plan:

Buy a couple of these suckers: Ubiquti Unifi AC Pro These are semi-enterprise grade wireless access points: convert wired Ethernet to Wi-Fi only. One might be enough, or you might need two or three, depending on how well the signal travels.

To use this, you'll need a couple things, some you might have, some you might not:

Cat6 cable and connectors: the Ethernet cable to connect these APs. This link is for bulk cable, to make your own cabling. Keep in mind you'll want to mount these APs to a wall or ceiling. I have mine taped on the wall in the middle of my house.

Router: just use a router you already have, just turn off the Wi-Fi broadcasting on the router. Leave the Wi-Fi to the APs. The box WOW gives you will either be a modem only or a gateway (modem + router). If that's a gateway, you can use that, otherwise, just use an old router, or buy a cheap one if you don't.

Switch: if your router doesn't have enough LAN Ethernet ports to send to the APs, connect the switch to the router via one Ethernet line, and plug the APs to the switch. This is a 5 port gigabit switch, so you'd have room for 4 APs or devices. Make sure you buy Gigabit Ethernet or 10/100/1000. Don't buy Fast Ethernet or 10/100: at these speeds, you'd be limited to 100Mb/s, instead of 1000Mb/s (this WOW plan is 600Mb/s, faster than the Fast Ethernet spec).

So something like this Netgear switch paired with this TP-Link AP? I'd like to spend less on the switch since I only need two ports if possible.

You can buy a cheap 4-port switch on Amazon for around $30 and use that to split the connection to the PC and PS4. Something like this should work just fine, you can save a few bucks if you don't want to go for a Gigabit version:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3

Hello, great article. I’ve been having a hard time finding a basic guide for setting home a home WiFi network using Ethernet cables. Every room in my house has the cabling for it but I don’t know what my hub ought to look like coming from the Verizon FiOS terminal. This is where I will eventually have my smart home hub as well (haven’t gotten to research that yet). Do I need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3
Or this? https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6

If not full article-worthy, any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks!

This won't work. In short it will be because there won't be any routing or IP configuration between the two routers which you can't do on most consumer grade home routers.

What you need to do instead is purchase a switch, something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B0000BVYT3?th=1&psc=1

And then put a cable between your existing router and the switch.

Ideally you would put a cable in the wall and terminate it (like an electrical outlet) at either end and then cable the switch and router locally at each end.

As for the Wi-Fi signal, the cheapest way to solve this would be to buy some Wi-Fi boosters to relay the signal but if you've got some cash to spare consider getting an access point or two (Unifi sell some cheap ones).

I'm by no means an expert though so take this with a pinch of salt.

TLDR,
buy a switch and some WiFi boosters instead.