Reddit reviews NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305) - Desktop, Sturdy Metal Fanless Housing

You need a small switch like this

I don't know how to help with your contacting for one from the University, but if you do follow through with purchasing one from Amazon, I highly recommend this Netgear Switch. TP-Link makes a cheaper one, but if you don't mind $5 Netgear is a good safe bet. Metal housing is sturdy, you'll have this sucker for life.

Link here.

Cheap 8-port netgear switch & 5-port.

$22 - NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS308)
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/

$17 - 5 port:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/?th=1

You have a few options here.

1. Put the Google Wifi system into bridge mode and let the Verizon gateway be the router. That would resolve the double NAT issue and put your wired and wireless devices on the same network. Your Verizon Gateway will still be your router/firewall, but your Google Wifi/Router will be used for WiFi. Also turn off WiFi radios on the Verizon Gateway so they don't interfere with each other. Note putting Google WiFi in bridge mode disables the Mesh features and turns the wireless APs into old school relays (which sucks), so if you are using multiple mesh APs you'll want to go with the next option. If you are just using a single unit, NBD.
   
   
2. Use the Google Wifi as the primary router, directly connected from the ONT. Google Mesh Wifi APs have one switch port, but you can just plug in a cheap switch to expand it with this Simple & well-built Netgear Switch and plug in all your wired devices. However, the Verizon router is needed for Fios TV channel info and on-demand services, but it doesn't need to be your primary router, it just needs internet to feed info to the settop boxes over coax. Just plug the WAN port from the Verizon gateway into the switch, and just make sure that the Verizon gateway and the google WiFi system aren't using the same IP range (i.e both using 192.168.x.x) either change the IP range in Google Wifi or change it on the Verizon router, make one of them 10.x.x.x or 172.16.x.x, and there will be no conflicts with double NAT and your Fios settop boxes will work normally. Also disable the WiFi radios on the Verizon gateway. (Note if you use the Fios app for live TV and remote DVR, you can't do this with Google Wifi, you'll need to use Verizons gateway as your primary router unless you buy different hardware)

If you can't run a line from the Ethernet cable in the basement to your game room, a separate router would be the best bet. Any dual band ac router will work. You can pick one up for about $60.

If you can, the best solution would be to use a mini switch to connect to the line in the basement and then run a line to the game room.

Just buy an inexpensive 5 port switch like this Netgear to get yourself going. You still need to use the poe injector for the AP.

Something like this sounds like it'd fit your needs based on your other comments.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR6XFHQ

Plug the long white Ethernet cable you ran to your room into that, and then plug all of your other devices into the other ports.

If you want to hardwire multiple devices to the puck, you just need a simple gigabit switch. Cheap, under $20. like this one.

Its basically like a USB Hub, if you remember those.

You can use a regular ethernet switch.

It shouldn't influence performance unless you've saturated the line by doing something intensive on both systems.

What speeds is your internet package? (Upload & Download)

If it doesn't exceed 80mbps you should be safe with a cheap 10/100 switch.


Here are my suggestions.

http://amzn.com/B000FNFSPY Cheap, but should be fine.

http://amzn.com/B00QR6XFHQ High quality & supports gigabit.

Let me see if I can suss out your details:

1. You have a single onHub router, wired into your cable modem (or Fios or whatever)
   
   
2. You're unhappy with its wifi performance
   
   
3. You want to run an ethernet cable from your router to your TV but the Onhub doesn't have an extra port
   
   
   If everything I said is correct, you can solve #3 for $20 and keep your Onhub with a simple switch like this one.
   
   If you also want to "fix" #2, the Nighthawk is fine. My quick google's make me horrified to think that you can't even manually select Wifi channels on the Google Wifi products, so you might actually need a new router for this (even if the hardware on the Onhub is fine). You'll need to be clearer about what exactly is bothering you for your wifi performance to be sure what you would be best served with, it's possible even the ac2300 is more expensive than you want. You certainly don't need Ubiquiti (I say that as a person that jumped from a Nighthawk to UBNT last year and absolutely love UBNT, but my use cases are more complex than yours).

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, Desktop, Internet Splitter, Sturdy Metal, Fanless, Plug-and-Play (GS305) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zTY6AbSQT52MW

Or

TP-Link 5 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Sturdy Metal w/ Shielded Ports | Life Time Warranty| Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG105) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A128S24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JUY6AbFBF1RXR

Netgears do have good reputation, I have that same model I believe, that runs 24/7 and has been for the past couple of years, 3 maybe

Edit:
Sorry I didn’t see where you needed an 8 porter. But nonetheless, these are great switches that I’m sure you can find in 5,8,10,24 ports

I'm not a fan of Netgear, but even I can't argue with this offering

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1526176523&sr=1-1&keywords=gigabit+switch

Just get whichever is the cheapest switch you can find at the local PC store. These are really simple devices and hardly ever break so don't need to get the fancy stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00QR6XFHQ

Thanks for the help. The switch I went with was http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=cm_sw_su_dp from some others that I talked to they said it would would very well for what I need it for.

I highly recommend putting both those on a switch. I did that and never had any more mount problems. That way router resets didn't affect them.
NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, Desktop, Internet Splitter, Sturdy Metal, Fanless, Plug-and-Play (GS305) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oPuPAbF228WN6

Going somewhat off u/TimKatt's response, but here's what you should be doing:

• Router downstairs with one ethernet cable running upstairs to the third floor
  
• Small switch (like this https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Internet-Splitter-Unmanaged/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500474739&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+5-port thought there are many other options) upstairs that connects to that ethernet cable
  
• Hue bridge plugged into another port on that switch
  
• Wireless access point plugged into a third port on that switch
  
• Configure wireless access point to use the same network name (SSID) and password as your router downstairs.

Yeah just get a small desktop switch. Wall to switch and then two Ethernet cables from the switch to your devices. You wouldn’t see any noticeable difference in performance. Something like this would do

Depends - can you run Ethernet cable (Cat 5e or 6 - NOT Cat 5) discretely or inside your wall? If so then you would set up at your ISDN modem (where your phone jack is) and an Ethernet switch - like this one.

You plug your modem into the switch and also your long Ethernet cable as well as your Dell desktop (3 ports total). You run that downstairs and plug it into your wireless router (whatever one you have - you didn't say) and any of your devices that have Ethernet.

Now you have wireless Ethernet and wired Ethernet downstairs and wired Ethernet upstairs.

If you can't or don't want to run a long Ethernet cable then you can replace the long wire with a Powerline adapter kit. This is an adapter kit that uses AC power lines to run networking. If you get a good one you can run 1 gb Networking on the AC wiring.

Here's a good Powerline kit (AV2 - up to 1gb networking) - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-1200Mbps-TL-PA8010-KIT/dp/B01EO5A4TI. This kit has 2 adapters - you plug one into the wall near your switch upstairs and connect it via Ethernet. Plug the other in an AC outlet downstairs and plug it into your wireless router. $50

Aye, probably something to do with the 100mbps connection speed. Try picking up a cheap 1Gbps switch and try that. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549168737&sr=8-6&keywords=netgear+gig+switch for example, it's a cheapy, but at $15 and prime, it may be worth a shot. Also check that your builtin NIC is gig capable. lshw -C network will show your network card's capabilities.

Buy a 5 port switch, plug your router into it and then your PC and your console, and anything else you want to have internet access.

Something like this:
NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305) - Desktop, Sturdy Metal Fanless Housing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dlEpDbDJ70CRA

And something like this:
TP-Link EAP245 V3 Wireless AC1750 MU-MIMO Gigabit Ceiling Mount Access Point, seamless roaming, Supports 802.3af PoE and Passive PoE(Injector Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NMZR3F1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dmEpDbWSY0PHE

You can go cheaper on this for sure but that would let devices take most advantage of the speed if you have new devices and fast wifi


But yeah, just a router in AP mode would work too.

With Uverse I have to use their router/modem. And in my experience, they're trash and I can't ever figure out how to do what I want. I guess I could always get a router and wire their modem into it, and have the router connected to the access points. I don't know how that works, would each access point give it's own signal that's not controlled?

Also, 5 port switch like this? https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524744877&sr=8-3&keywords=5+port+switch

And are there any good ones that receive a wireless signal and have data output connections?

Thanks!

I ended up going with this. It is a Gigabit switch, so that's good! Most of the time it'll probably be one PC or the other in use. My secondary is going to be primarily used by my girlfriend for school work (which she usually gets done while I'm at work), and occasionally by my friends to join me in games like League of Legends and Overwatch.

I appreciate your responses! Have a great day!

I think you're just trying to get two computers physically connected to one Ethernet port, correct? You don't need VLAN support for that.

Is this Ethernet port on your modem?

If it is on your modem, you need to buy a router. Most consumer routers have more than 1 port on them so that should be all you need.

If the port is not on your modem, you need to buy a switch. This Netgear switch is the highest rated one on Amazon and it (or something similar) would be enough to get you the extra ports you need.

I don't like Netgear stuff generally but I have a little 5 port switch from them that I use for my living room stuff (PS4, etc).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recommend a real switch. No telling how a real switch will compare to a home router. Switches are cheap, fast, and handy to have around!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QR6XFHQ/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518092066&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gigabit+switch+5+port&dpPl=1&dpID=413i643dDLL&ref=plSrch

Why not just remote in?

You could get by with something like this. Doesn't have a fan, and thus the only place it can make a noise would be the power brick. Those sometimes (but pretty rarely) have a slight hum to them.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, Desktop, Internet Splitter, Sturdy Metal, Fanless, Plug-and-Play (GS305) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1jgbBb649J7X1

That doesn't make it "impossible" it makes it easy.
Buy a couple of Netgear switches.

16-port
5-port
Done.

One thing to possibly consider is getting a wifi access-point and use that for the 4/5-port switch and extend the wifi to upstairs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b5IGzb5H66JEP

Spend the $20 and do it the right way man. If your pc is connected over wifi and you bridge it to Ethernet and plug it into your Xbox you’ll get the same or worse speed/latency than if you connected the Xbox via wifi. Get a small switch and a couple patch cables and do it the right way.

I have these cables on my network:

https://www.amazon.com/Dripstone-Ethernet-Network-2000Mhz-Connectors/dp/B07KMH7G75/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

​

https://www.amazon.com/CNCOB-Ethernet-Network-Internet-Connection/dp/B07D3PQTHW/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

​

This switch NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305). This router Google. This modem NETGEAR Gigabit Cable Modem (32x8) DOCSIS 3.1 (CM1000-1AZNAS)

yeah. def!

or these if you prefer metal casing.

TP-Link TL-SG105

NETGEAR GS305

> I have my modem downstairs and 1 ethernet cable going through the hall stairs and up in my bedroom

Assuming that modem (router) has gigabit Ethernet ports, why not buy an inexpensive gigabit switch to place next to your PC and PS?

Thanks a lot for your help so far.
My cable modem/wireless router is Netgear C6220.
I am planning on buying a NETGEAR Wi-Fi Range Extender EX3700.
Also, a NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305)
Would you call that the right gear.
It'd be amazing if I could figure out the way to have a single SSID and password across the house.

E: I already saw on Amazon comments that EX3700 isn't a mesh mode AP and thus can't be used with the same SSID. Will continue searching for a better alternative and appreciate recommendations (I know about Google WiFi but I'll rather something from Netgear , Linksys, etc.)

You know much about them? I'm looking at https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-8-port-Gigabit-Desktop-Switch/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=lp_680476011_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511549598&sr=1-2&th=1&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B002HH0W5W/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_of_33?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1X2CN1746AGX19TW3KMF&th=1

Price History

• NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch in Metal Case Essentials Edition   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 929 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
• NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS308) Desktop, Sturdy Metal   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 929 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
  _
  Call the Bishop, these prices are sinful.
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If you aren't on a tight budget you might want to go prosumer and you could look into separating the router into it's components parts rather than an all in one. For example:

• Ubiquiti ER-X
  
• Ubiquiti Unifi NanoHD
  
• Any dumb multiport switch
  
  ​
  
  The NanoHD is totally overkill for an apartment but once it's setup you'd likely never have wifi issues ever again. You can check out the Lite and Pro models as cheaper options but the NanoHD is the newest. Setup isn't as trivial as your run of the mill router but you don't need to be a sysadmin either. I've seen the ER-X go down to $50 at memory express before and it's an excellent router.

Like this?

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1524859162&sr=1-5&keywords=gigabit+switch

5 port. $20 shipped. New.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch in Metal Case - Essentials Edition (GS305-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR6XFHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v42CybYKV7WQN

Well I already ran one line upstairs for a project that I never actually finished so that one was already in place. A second line wouldn't be much work most of the basement has a drop ceiling and I would only have to sneak the wire up from one spot. I also moved the router just to test it and I'm definitely noticed a better coverage but last night my laptop (Windows 10) kept dropping connection nothing else seem to be affected though. The only thing I'm going to have to buy is another cable (used it to run the first line)and a switch