Reddit Reddit reviews NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS308) - Desktop, Sturdy Metal Fanless Housing

We found 24 Reddit comments about NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS308) - Desktop, Sturdy Metal Fanless Housing. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Computer Networking
Computer Networking Switches
Electronics
Computers & Accessories
NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS308) - Desktop, Sturdy Metal Fanless Housing
PLUG-AND-PLAY: Simple set up with no software to install or configuration neededVERSATILE MOUNTING OPTIONS: Supports desktop or wall mount placementSILENT OPERATION: The fanless design means zero added noise wherever its located, making it ideal for noise-sensitive environmentsPEACE OF MIND WARRANTY: Covered by an industry-leading 3-year limited hardware warrantyENERGY EFFICIENT: Designed to optimize power usage lowering its cost to operate. Most models are compliant with IEEE802.3az Energy Efficient Ethernet mode.BUILT TO LAST: Every NETGEAR Network switch is rigorously tested for reliability, quality, and performance.
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24 Reddit comments about NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS308) - Desktop, Sturdy Metal Fanless Housing:

u/Onlythefinestwilldo · 16 pointsr/homelab

Now that you mention it, I'd be curious too. I'll tally it up and get back to you all.

Edit: here it is!


Thing |Price | Quantity
---|---|----
Belkin Power Strip | 30 | 1
Raspberry Pi 3 B+ | 38.30 | 2
Miuzei Raspberry Pi Cooling Case Kit | 25.99 | 2
Netgear 8 Port Gigabit Switch | 17.99 | 1
WD 2 TB External Hard Drive | 59.99 | 4
KingDian 8GB SSD | 10 | 1
Mitac PD12TI CC Mini-ITX Motherboard w/ Intel Atom D2500 CPU | 149.99 | 1
Mini-Box picoPSU-80 80w 12v PSU | 28.95 | 1
Sabrent 12v AC power supply | 10.98 | 1


Total: $616.45

I was doing pretty good until I got to the damn WD hard drives. I suspect I paid way too much for how good they are. Probably could have saved some money by making an enclosure and using real hard drives or something

u/KingdaToro · 8 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Modem: Translates between different data communication protocols, typically Ethernet and DSL, cable, or fiber. Always connects to a router, or can be built in to one.

Router: Connects different networks together and forwards (routes) traffic between them. In a home network, a router also allows multiple devices to connect through a single public IP (NAT), assigns IP addresses to local network devices (DHCP), and blocks unwanted internet traffic from reaching the local network (firewall). Routers have absolutely nothing to do with Wi-Fi. There is always exactly one, and it's always directly connected to (or built in to) the modem.

Switch: Adds more ports to a wired network. Keeps track of which devices are on each port, so that it can forward traffic only where it needs to go rather than indiscriminately broadcasting it. Any router with multiple LAN ports has one of these built in. If you need more Ethernet ports, this is what you get.

Access point: Provides Wi-Fi. It has a wired connection to the host network. Most commonly found built into routers (the term "wireless router" just means "router with built in access point"), but also available separately. If you need more Wi-Fi coverage, this is what you get.

Extender/Repeater: Provides Wi-Fi, and has a wireless connection to the host network. Seems like a good thing, but it's not. Since Wi-Fi is a shared medium, it's not able to communicate with the host (router/AP) and devices at the same time. It has to split its bandwidth between them, so only half of it is available for communication with devices. This means that the speed of any device connected to it will be cut in half. And that's half the speed the extender itself can get, not half of what the router/AP can provide. If you connect an extender to the router with Ethernet, it's now able to use all its Wi-Fi bandwidth for talking to devices, so they can all run at full speed. This makes it an access point. So, anywhere you think you could/should use an extender, you should actually use an access point instead.

So, what to do in your situation is to get a gigabit switch. You could get a 5-port, as it will still leave you four ports on the switch and three on the router, but the price difference is small so you might as well get the 8-port.

Then, you'll want to get two access points, one each for the first and second floors. If you can only afford one at first, put it on the second floor. These provide the best coverage when ceiling mounted at the center of the desired coverage area, but this is by no means necessary. They're powered by PoE (Power over Ethernet) and include an injector for it. What you do is connect the LAN port on the injector to the switch, connect the PoE port on the injector to the AP, and plug the injector into an outlet.

To manage these APs, you use the UniFi Controller which should ideally be installed on an Ethernet-connected PC. You only need to run it to set up the APs and make changes, it doesn't need to run all the time. If you were to get the matching router, it would be controlled from here as well, simplifying your network management.

u/RossIV · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Looks like the top module with the yellow cables is a patch panel of sorts. I think I see RJ45 Jacks facing down there. You would need a network switch with enough ports (example) to connect each of those ports, then one to your router. Once that side is done, you should be able to connect wired devices to the other end of any of those ports.

The blue cables at the bottom are wired for telephone, not data. The master line from the phone company goes in, then all of the other cables are connected to it in a hub fashion.

u/Lagotta · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

How many more ports do you need? (Now, and say for the next year or two, looking ahead?)

Five ports: (leaves your four ports to work with, since one port is used to connect to your router)

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https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG105/dp/B00A128S24/ref=zg_bs_281414_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XF6W03YMBKHZVSTYKM35

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8 ports (leaves you seven to use for your devices)

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https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00KFD0SEA/ref=zg_bs_281414_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XF6W03YMBKHZVSTYKM35

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Another five port, all metal case, lifetime warranty (not a big deal)

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https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=zg_bs_281414_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XF6W03YMBKHZVSTYKM35

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u/windrip · 5 pointsr/skycoin

I recently built a four-board Orange PI DIY Skyminer in order to share a way to create a miner without the need to do any of the electrical wiring or flashing OpenWRT to a router. Hopefully this provides the community with some ideas on ways to easily setup a miner!

Here are the supplies used:

Orange PI Prime Boards

Using the Orange PI Prime boards makes sense for beginners since most of the community is using these boards and thus there are a lot of community members who can assist with issues when installing the software on Linux. Additionally, the Skycoin team will be releasing an image with the software preinstalled that can be easily flashed onto Orange PI boards.

Power Adapter (US Version)

Power Adapter (EU Version)

Micro SD Cards

You will want to use fast Class 10 Micro SD cards. 16 GB is what the official miners come with.

LAN Cables

You can use any short Cat 6 Ethernet cables. I used these from the parts list that has floated around and got some in both 15cm and 25cm lengths.

Case

Any Orange PI cases would work but these are the ones I used.

Switch

This cheap switch can handle up to 7 devices, not including the incoming connection from the router. If you might expand to 8 boards in your Skyminer, use a 8+1 port switch like the one referenced in other parts lists.

Power-Adapter-Compatible Surge Protector

This surge protector can support up to 6 bulky power adapters at a time plus additional standard plugs.

GL-MT300N-V2 Mini Router (300 Mbps) with OpenWRT Preinstalled

This mini-router is limited to 300 Mbps but comes with OpenWRT preinstalled and is likely sufficient for home users in many parts of the world where bandwidth is capped at low speeds. In the long term, this bandwidth would not be sufficient for running a Skyminer attached to an antenna, but it gives you time to flash OpenWRT on a gigabit router while still participating in the Testnet via an OpenWRT router.

Power Adapter for Router

The MT300N requires a 5V/1A power supply, so most USB adapters should work.

Summary

Another reason to consider getting individual cases and power adapters is that FPGA miners and official miners with more than 8 boards are being worked on, and when they are released, a lot of the first-gen equipment will not be as useful for running Skywire. When that happens, I will probably use this initial equipment for other purposes or give some boards to friends/family for them to use for various purposes, and everything is in place from the start to make that transition very easy.

One downside to using the Orange PI boards is that they are in high demand due to the Skywire rollout, so backorders are common and it might be a month or more before you receive the boards. Personally, I feel there are several benefits to using the Orange PIs which I mentioned above, but you would probably receive other boards such as Raspberry PIs quicker. Other users have put together guides for those boards as well, such as this thread on Skywug, so you do have several options.

I hope this simple DIY setup helps the community!

u/kakeyi · 4 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Taking into account the $5 discount and If you have Amazon Prime or Newegg Premier, the metal case version of this switch is "on sale" for $29.99, so only $5 more than this one.
Amazon GS308
Newegg GS308

u/bobadad23 · 3 pointsr/homelab

K.I.S.S. Is my motto. If you dont need anything more than basic switch functionality your best bet is a plug and play non-managed switch. You can get a nice Netgear 8-port off Amazon for $19.99.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFD0SEA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/washu_k · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> Are you saying that I need a piece of hardware called a switch that connects to that box ?

Yes. A switch connects multiple Ethernet devices together in one network.

> Sorry man lol can you ELI5? Any online tutorials?

For a basic switch there really isn't much to explain, they are literally plug and play. You connect all your Ethernet cables, connect the power cable and that's it. As long as one of the cables connects to your router it will work. Undamaged or "dumb" switches have no configuration.

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFD0SEA/ You can get more or less ports as you need depending on how many cables you have.

The potential issue is not the switch but if your cables are connected properly. Often network cables are wired for phone lines which will not work without fixing them. If you can post a picture of your box in the basement we can tell you if they are connected correctly.

u/Volcomm · 2 pointsr/lanparty

I've got this switch, it hasn't failed me yet, just wondering if there's something better I should be using

u/SphericalRedundancy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Put your ISP provided modem/router in bridge mode and get a UBNT ERX, they're like 50 bucks on amazon.

And if you need a switch just look for any 5 or 8 port unmanaged/desktop switch from net gear or TP-Link like this one.

If you need a wireless AP also get something from UBNT, they're amazing for the price.

u/689430944 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> landline

> im older

lol

anyways, what you want is an ethernet switch. (with Gigabit speed preferably) you don't necessarily need new RJ45 cables unless your existing ones are damaged or you don't have enough. it might be worth the cost to get a crimping toolkit and spend the time to make 1 cable into 4 shorter cables that go to a switch, so you don't have to buy more cable for each device.

here's a listing for an 8 port gigabit switch that should work

existing combo modem/router/switch/AP boxes can be configured as a wireless access point/switch.

information on how to use a second router as an access point/switch

here's that crimping kit I was talking about

u/re5i5tor · 2 pointsr/eero
u/iFarSuperior · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Modem: Arris XB6 Advanced WiFi Modem

Switch: Netgear 8-port Gigabit desktop switch https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KFD0SEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For all of my cat5e cables a green light is visible on my modem indicating a gigabit connection while the cat 5 is an orange light idicating an 100mbit/s conneciton.

u/generalization_guy · 1 pointr/emby

An unmanaged switch is just a piece of hardware you can add to give yourself more ethernet ports. I did it because the Google Wifi only has 1 ethernet port and I wanted to hardwire my PC, TV, and my NVidia Shield to the network.

u/grokdesigns · 1 pointr/homelab

That switch should be fine for getting started and just being able to connect more devices(you can also get it $5 cheaper on Amazon). Your wiring diagram is correct. Your modem shouldn't be a bottleneck at all unless your internet service provides greater than 300Mbps.

u/Emerald_Flame · 1 pointr/hardware

> A professional install would have been a dedicated hardware router and a dedicated access point which would have performed better, had better support, and would not have taken wireless clients offline when updating / rebooting the router.

So you call me out about suggesting a mid-range consumer option for being expensive. But then go on to suggest I should of told him to have a professional IT contractor company, that he may or may not know how to find, and pay them to come out to his 3 bedroom house, and install enterprise grade hardware for his half dozen of devices? I hope you see the irony in that.

> And using copper 1gig for this isn't acceptable why?

Because I want to be able to work from any room or let any client have 10G access. That way if I'm working I can access the larger video files I work with quickly. Or in the case of the steam cache so individuals can load games quicker from backups I have stored.

> Do tell. Keep in mind that we are talking about over the network and with multiple clients hitting it at once so a simple linear speed test from a consumer NVMe drive will not work.

Actually the use cases I'm talking about are practically all sequential. In my experience most steam game backup files are primarily sequential read, with some unpacking done on the destination. And for the hobby work I do at home, it's primarily large uncompressed video, once again, sequential. While that might not be everyone's use case, it is mine, and it's the case's I brought up for why I wanted an affordable solution.

> Honestly I don't see how 33 cents per day / less than the cost of a 1080TI really matters.

You're trying to trivialize the price by coming up with some per day metric. The solution you suggested would be $675 for just 8 ports on the low end, if you can find good deals on used hardware. A 1Gb 8 port switch would be less than $30 for a home solution, in fact this netgear solution is $26. That's a price difference of 25.96x for a performance difference of only 10x just for the switch alone. I don't know how you think that's a deal, but I don't know any home user that would.

As for this part:

> Had you actually approached any of this like an actual profession / as an adult it would be different.

And now your using personal attacks calling me childish, while using that attack to try to win an argument. I hope you see the irony in this as well. Regardless of whether you do or not, for me, that always earns people a spot on my RES ignore list.

u/jsdavis · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

It sounds like you want to connect three additional devices in the room with the PC. If that is the case, then you need a switch, not a router.

Since you alredy have a PC, and you have the cable from the router, that takes up 2 ports. Three additional devices will fill up a 5 port switch. In this situation, personally, I would spend a bit more and get a 8 port switch in case I add more devices.

Soemthing like this, or similar: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Internet-Splitter/dp/B00KFD0SEA

u/NotUserFriendly · 1 pointr/DIY

That is a real switch. I'd strongly recommend getting a netgear or other more reputable brand over whatever a totolink is. Like This One

u/DingDingDao · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

No problem, I hope it's helpful.

That is a shitload of cables. I can't tell from the pictures, but hopefully they're labeled in some fashion (bedroom 1, kitchen, whatever) so that you know which cables lead to where in your apartment. The blue cables are likely the cables you need, but to be sure, just open up one of the wall ports in another room and look at the cable and confirm that (and the termination pattern while you're at it).

Regarding the incoming signal cable, are you using cable internet or DSL or fiber? Actually, if you tell us the brand and model of your modem, that'll answer that question (and a few others) pretty quickly.

Regarding switches, this Netgear unmanaged gigabit switch worked fine for me, and there's different versions with as few as 5 ports and as many as 24 (just get whatever can accomodate as many ports as you're trying to get networked). The switch in the picture below is a different one (a managed switch), but for your needs this one (or one like it) is more than sufficient.

Patch panel...I'd just browse Amazon and find something that has as many ports as you need. Unfortunately, you have a weird-ass distribution enclosure that doesn't easily accept rack-mount patch panels (which make things way way easier). I, too, have a weird-ass distribution enclosure (picture below).

Here's a picture of my network setup.

  • Modem to the outside world is on the bottom left (connected to the outside world via the white cable into the red port) -- the coax cable coming out the bottom of the box is my TV signal, so ignore that for this conversation)
  • Modem is connected via yellow cable to my router (white box, lower left in enclosure with big glowing blue square)
  • Router is connected via the green cable to my switch (box wall-mounted below the enclosure)
  • Router connects via all the other cables (orange and purple) to the patch panel (top right box in the enclosure)
  • Patch panel connects to all the cables distributed throughout my house -- they're behind the patch panel, so you can't see them, which is the point of the patch panel (makes more a clean install and makes patching ports really simple). The patch panel I have is this one. It might fit your panel, but I can't guarantee it. It's also way more expensive than most patch panels, because LeGrand likes to charge a huge premium for their stupid proprietary crap (and I'm a sucker for clean installs).
u/avilash · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

If you go the wired option and have an Ethernet switch and Ethernet adapters for each Nintendo Switch, then you are effectively setting up your own network and wouldn't need to worry about the company's network as it would all be independent of that and would likely be the best way to guarantee a quality experience.

Example 8 port Switch

USB to Ethernet Adapter

5 Pack of 10' Ethernet Cables

What would be nice is if you could just bring your own wireless router that is not connected to anything, and if every device can connect to this wireless router even though it doesn't have Internet, then it should in theory work the same and prevent you from needing all that extra equipment I listed above.

I would definitely have a chat with your IT department if you have one. It is not uncommon that they may have an extra unused/old Ethernet switch laying around + cables they could let you borrow.

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u/Faps_McTickle · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

Others have commented on the availability of hubs in 2018 (or 2010, for that matter), but here's the dumb switch I bought for some simple gigabit networking.

u/moltencrystal1989 · -1 pointsr/HomeNetworking

this would probably sort your router woes

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1526238448&sr=1-2&keywords=ubiquiti

along with a switch to provide more lan ports

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFD0SEA/ref=twister_B07CZ6VCXD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

that should be good enough to sort your issues. You would need a seperate ap, for wifi, but it would help sort out a crappy router situatuion