Reddit reviews Nikey Sports Shorts (S, Red)

Get some desiccant for your storage. You can save the little bags you find in random retail stuff (food, shoes, etc), or buy them. Here's an ebay guide that should explain use.

Antique dealer here, though I don't have much experience with books or autographs and those are specialized fields of knowledge. Since you found records of Levi-Strauss' autograph alone selling in the area of $100, then it's safe to assume that your book is worth at least this amount. An autograph specialist once told me that sometimes a notable person's autograph is made more valuable when accompanied by an inscription, and sometimes this detracts from the value. I can't imagine that this will sway the value too forcefully.

The book's publication details are another point to consider. First editions are most collectible with each newer release declining in value, for the most part. The exceptions to this include high quality hardcover printings, limited editions, and other formats that can be published five years later than, say, the 4th printing but are now more desirable than those slightly older editions.

But the heft this book's value will be determined by its condition. If there were one bit of advice I could lend to anyone who is eager to learn the value of their possessions and ventures online to make comparisons, it's that value is a continuum and the detailed state of an object's condition shifts its position from one end of this continuum to the other. The other end is always $0.00. Too often people come to me having seen a mint condition version of their item sell on eBay for $2,000 or Antiques Roadshow, only to find that their treasure has a market value of $150 due to the significant wear and damage that they failed to consider.

I recommend reading some guides that explain how to size up a book's condition. (AbeBooks' is good for terminology and [eBay's can come in handy if you chose to sell online](http://www.ebay.com/gds/Standard-Guide-For-Rating-Book-Condition/10000000001469010/g.html, and here's one that explains a bit more) Carefully inspect the book and do your best to honestly and accurately describe its condition using the vocabulary of book collectors, and let its condition show you where it falls on the spectrum of value. I used to collect Mad Magazines and can tell you that tears on the cover are considered significant wear. I suspect you're in the "Good" range, unless the back cover or inside of the book are a mess.

Now the task is to look at auction or sales record (when searching eBay, check the "sold listings" and "completed listings" boxes in the left hand column to see what people have actually paid, not just what sellers are asking. Amazon "used" listings can be useful as well) of books as similar to yours as possible. If you can find a copy from this same printing that's signed and inscribed by Levi-Strauss and in similar condition, and it has sold recently (if you find a sale price from a while ago adjusting for inflation can be useful but keep in mind that market trends can fluctuate drastically. Beanie Babies are the extreme example, but that pattern happens all the time with everything from Shaker furniture to Civil War weaponry to Mad Magazines. I have no idea whether the book market has seen similar swells), then you have a pretty good indicator of your book's value. If not, then figure out the book's value independently since you seem to have an idea of the autograph's value, and combine the two. Maybe add a few dollars due to the combined book and signature carrying more appeal than the two items separately.

To answer your question, I think you've got yourself a wonderful piece of history there in your hands. I own two old autographed books and really enjoy leafing through them and wondering about them. And I think you've got some money there, perhaps a couple hundred dollars, waiting for you if you ever decide to part with it.

It seems to be a Konus Konusky-200 200mm (7.8") Newtonian Reflector (somebody asked about this scope before so I looked it up).


It shows up on this page (gotta hover your mouse over image, that page miss-labels the images).


This guy says these are Chinese made newtonians with spherical mirrors and they are basically junk telescopes, real telescopes like this have parabolic mirrors. If this is a spherical F5 mirror the image will probably be horrible.



They show up on this page.


Customer reviews here and here note the mount and optics are trash and the whole thing seems to be a bogus copy of name brand scopes such as Celestron or Meade. Real functional name brands like this go for $700. The Konus Konusky-200 is probably only worth $200, if that. If the optics are spherical it is basically worthless.



An amateur telescope maker may want it so they can refigure the optics and rebuild the mount to make it into a working scope. If you are handy and into telescope making you probably could do that as well.

It's not a first, that's not the first edition cover. My guess would be mid 20s reprint based on the style.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/Oz-Book-First-Editions-How-to-Identify-/10000000000999013/g.html

Oz books are one of those things that have enough value in early copies even thought they wouldn't normally be collectible just because they're so popular. You could probably get $20-40 each on Ebay/etsy/amazon maybe even locally.

The only downside to this power is that you have to GO to a store in order to get your merchandise. Its not like you can create it all out of thin ai...💡

AMAZON, buy whatever I want ONLINE. Haha, so i can do it all and have Rush Shipping all for the price of 1/1000000000th of a Bitcoin. Beat the system. 😎

You've thankfully got a lot of resources available online to help get you started. A good beginners tutorial can be found here on how to make your own custom knife from scratch with minimal equipment.

I tend to use Jantz Supply for a lot of my supplies including steel and kydex.

I'd highly recommend joining up for free on Blade Forums and browsing around the shop-talk forums. Tons of useful information by people that are just beginning and people who've been doing it for decades.

There's really tons of material online to help you figure out which steel to use. If you're just starting, I'd recommend sticking with something simple like 1095 high carbon, maybe 440C stainless. Here is a surprisingly good article written about it from an unexpected place. If you get the chance, pick up this book: The Master Bladesmith by Jim Hrisoulas. It's practically the knife-maker's bible.

Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions!

Accidentally replied to another comment at first. Get a smudge stick from a nearby occult shop if available, if not just get one off of amazon or ebay. It's just a bunch of white sage bundled up with some red string. Of all places I found a fairly level headed walk through on how to use it on Ebay from a guy or gal called hippie badger. Here's the link for the how to. Anyway never pay more than maybe $5 for a smudge stick unless it's HUGE. Just a heads up there to keep you from getting gouged. If that doesn't work report back and let us know how things are going.

I'm not an expert, but I did study jewelry making and gemstones a long time ago.

Gem-quality colored diamonds just aren't that common. If you have colored stones they are probably some other kind of stone. They may also be lab-grown synthetics or paste (glass).

The first thing I'd do is inspect them for size and imperfections. Gem-quality precious stones tend to not be very large, they tend to all be slightly different colored, and they tend to have flaws of some kind - internal spots or fractures, etc.

If you have a bunch of colored stones that are exactly the same size, shape and color - or equally perfectly colorless white stones, with no tiny imperfections in their surface or inside of them, they are quite possibly imitations of some kind or at best low-value semi-precious stones. Inexpensive synthetics can be very sparkly depending on their cut and the material they are made from, so "fire" isn't always an indication of value.

All you need to start with is a good light source and a good hand lens or desktop magnifier. If you wanted to get fancy you could buy a $30 USB microscope to plug into your computer. If you don't start seeing little lines and specks in the stones, or irregularities in the coloration, they are most likely imitations. Your magnifier doesn't HAVE to be very strong, either. 5x-10x ("five to ten power") magnification is perfectly adequate for finding these tiny irregularities, you can find such magnifiers (also called jeweler's loupes) in many hobby shops or online on eBay or Amazon, etc. Check online for buying guides, like this one.

Even if the stones do show these irregularities it's not guaranteed that they are natural, but it's a good first step. Really though, start by arming yourself with knowledge and simple tools. Go to a jewelry store and ask the sales clerk to show you some natural stones with minor imperfections, and to show you how to use a hand lens. Some may balk at the request, but you can always try another store.

Once you've done those things come back here and we can answer any questions that occur to you and suggest what to try next. Nobody was born knowing this stuff, and anyone who buys jewelry should at least know a little of it just to protect themselves.

Also, if you do buy a USB microscope you can take detailed photographs of a small batch of stones, one stone at a time, and then take them to someone for authentication knowing that they can't pull a switch on you by keeping your originals and returning fake or less valuable natural stones. It does happen sometimes, unfortunately.

Take your time, educate yourself, and have fun with it. You DON'T have to spend a lot of money, and even if you do decide to get the stones professionally appraised ask around to find the right person, settle on a price you're comfortable with up front, and just take them a few representative stones at a time.

Find out if there's a rock club in your area, they are also called gem and mineral societies. Sometimes the members will turn out to be mainly interested in agates and other semi-precious stones, but often there will be a few people fairly knowledgeable about precious gemstones as well.

tl;dr

Just sit down and start looking at the stones one at a time with a good handheld magnifier in good light. If the stones look too perfect and perfectly identical they're probably synthetics or fakes. (Though there are some lab-grown stones now with flaws and inclusions too.)

Good luck!

I'd go get all the available back issues from your friendly local comic shops (LCS's) first, and then mail-order the rest in Very Fine condition from Lone Star Comics (mycomicshop.com) ... except be careful about the expensive first few issues.

Notice that there are lots of different covers. These are called "variants" and some are more rare than others. Sometimes these are done to showcase neat cover artwork from a guest artist, and fewer issues with that are printed. These can be a lot of fun, but can also soak collectors who must own everything and then need to buy all the different covers.

In the case of Saga, these mostly exist because of reprinted issues. Think of reprints like first-edition hardcover novels vs later paperback printings... except in comics, the books are the same shape and size, and the content is the same.

In regards to grading, most scales are similar, but the biggest ones are the Overstreet Guide and CGC (Certified Guaranty Company) scales. CGC's is a bit opaque and they don't really tell you too much about why they choose what they choose, as well as being occasionally arbitrary when grading your comics for you, but that's a different discussion. Also, I find Lone Star's to be helpful as well.

For this first collection of yours, I would suggest focusing on readability and completion before collectibility (e.g., investing money with the intent to sell it all someday soon). Complete the collection with pretty nice issues without breaking the bank, so that you can go back and read whenever you want.

So, like with issue #2, you could buy a nearly perfect copy of the first printing for like $30-50, or you can buy a pretty terrific second printing for less than five! The one that's available right now for $4.10 also has a nice cover image posted so you can look at the actual issue and see that it looks great. Another example, regarding that tricky #1, in your situation, I would buy the "Saga #1 Image Firsts" which should only be like two dollars for an almost perfect copy.

If the two of you really get bitten by the collecting bug and want rare, more valuable issues later on, then you'll still have these high-quality, less-expensive issues to open and read whenever you want, so you don't have to worry about damaging a collector's item that you spent $50-200 on!

I probably wouldn't buy back issues directly off of Amazon. It's only straightforward because it doesn't give you enough information about what you're buying.

eBay can be great, but is better for a slightly more experienced collector, because descriptions can be deceptive and it's easy to end up with something you didn't want, or essentially be stolen from directly. It doesn't happen often, but it can, and eBay dispute resolution can be a pain in the ass. That said, after doing this for a while, you'll find sometimes that you can save money going with an eBay auction or Buy It Now, including better prices than at Lone Star, but I definitely suggest gaining some experience first so that you don't end up sad :-)

If you absolutely need something you can't find anywhere else, you can also buy from Mile High Comics as a last resort; last resort because prices tend to be higher and their ordering system is antiquated, but they are pretty trustworthy, they do have lots of stock and are sometimes the only place to simply order something and get it now.

Good luck! Saga is a great series, and I hope you find what you're looking for!

I guess it all depends on what types of books you like to read. I think I tend to gravitate toward mysteries and science fiction. There is a great place to start looking, and that is this list on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/gds/Collecting-Scholastic-Books-Part-I-Intro-to-the-LISTS-/10000000004041567/g.html.

I started there, looked up titles I remembered or thought looked good, and then looked in Goodwills, book stores, Amazon, etc. If I had to recommend a book to start an interest, I'd go with Homer Price. Classic, funny book that is hard to put down.

I got a great set of flatware from Amazon for a good price. I think this set was around $80 when I bought it. If you want something that's got a nice weight and won't rust in the dishwasher, look for 18/10 stainless steel. I've had this set for 2 years and put them in the dishwasher and let them air dry all the time and there's not a speck of rust anywhere. Also, they're surprisingly heavy in the hand.

The set doesn't come with steak knives, but I bought steak knives separately because I wanted a knife block.

Directv receivers: I just sold one on ebay. I researched before I listed to make sure it was okay with ebay and Direct. I used this ebay guide and the Amazon listing for guidance. I also provided the RID number and told potential buyers to contact direct with the number too find out if a contract or fees would apply.

The unit was NIB, it sold in about a week for a $45 profit. I have two more to list.

edit: fixed link for ebay guide.

I recently went to Portugal for 12 days and managed to go through it without charging my accus. I took 3 with me - original and 2 Wasabi batteries. I wasn't constantly shooting - I was turning it off and on.

http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-AHDBT-201-AHDBT-301-AHDBT-302/dp/B00I2VIR2M

Something like this - USB charger charges 2 batteries at the time, but I'm not sure if solar panels will be able to generate over 3 amps. Check it. Other than that - keep them close to body in a ziplock plastic bag. You can throw in some silica gel bags http://www.ebay.com/gds/Using-Silica-Gel-and-Desiccants-/10000000000898409/g.html


Disclaimer - I never took my gopro to as harsh environment as Himalayas. Maybe try to find on youtube/vimeo people who actually went there and used GoPro.

> I guess it all depends on what types of books you like to read. I think I tend to gravitate toward mysteries and science fiction. There is a great place to start looking, and that is this list on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/gds/Collecting-Scholastic-Books-Part-I-Intro-to-the-LISTS-/10000000004041567/g.html.
> I started there, looked up titles I remembered or thought looked good, and then looked in Goodwills, book stores, Amazon, etc. If I had to recommend a book to start an interest, I'd go with Homer Price. Classic, funny book that is hard to put down.

Thanks for posting; very helpful advice and resource!

I'm not the best person to ask, I never buy extended warranties (overpriced for a gamble), esp as here in the UK John Lewis generally do a 2 or 3 year warranty for free, BUT, I did recommend my brother get extended cover on his phone 'cause he does go thru them, seriously, he's dropped them in tins of paint, a bath, left it on the roof of his car...

Check the limitations out as well, google found this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/WHY-NOT-TO-GET-Square-Trade-SquareTrade-ebay-Insurance-/10000000003415423/g.html
But that might be different to Amazon. Also, review sites tend to give them 4 out of 5 stars, just make sure you read the small print - sunlight can damage the lens, could that be considered an act of God?

And good luck, welcome to VR, you're gonna love it! :)

There's the pro & pro 2.0 apparently. Pro has a darker gun metal look (same as Toe-Up color) while 2.0 has a lighter finish with the face insert showing the Odyssey logo rather than saying pro. Or that's my understanding.

Pro 1.0: http://s3.amazonaws.com/cloud.3balls.com/value-guide/images/Odyssey/Putters/white_hot_pro_9_large.jpg

Pro 2.0: http://m.pgatoursuperstore.com/media/pgatss/images/Product/detail/1000000000062DET.jpg

Did he pay the extra 99cent or whatever it is for priority processing? Otherwise, he shouldnt complain about slow processing. They are probably 1/1000000000th the size of amazon.

ebay has an article about the different methods here (along with pros and cons) and if you look on amazon there's bunches of choices for lead swab tests, here's one

Jesus can't y'all fucking google? Being a conservative means I have to have 100% of my facts straight 100% of the time. Everything is fucking scrutinized. Nobody does this to democrats. So here I am googling on my iPhone for someone who is not going to reevaluate their stupid fucking opinion regardless. Fuck.

Charity is inherent to the conservative ideology.

Here is some evidence from very reluctant, liberal sources:
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.rt.com/document/100000000000001000193952/amp

https://mobile.nytimes.com/2008/12/21/opinion/21kristof.html

https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.documentcloud.org/documents/1100129/who-gives.pdf

http://www.thefiscaltimes.com/2014/10/17/Who-s-More-Generous-Liberals-or-Conservatives

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