Reddit reviews NOCO GC018 12-Volt Adapter Plug Socket With Eyelet Battery Terminals
We found 23 Reddit comments about NOCO GC018 12-Volt Adapter Plug Socket With Eyelet Battery Terminals. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Permanently mount a 12-volt adapter plug socket directly from your car battery to power a tire inflator, vacuum, coffee maker, and more.Water-resistant cap to protect the female adapter plug socket from the elements.Built-in fused connection for protection against short circuit.High-conductivity 16 AWG copper wire and a rated capacity of 15-amperes.Molded strain reliefs prevent unwanted strain on the wire connections.Fit type: Universal Fit
Personally for local or camping (not air travel) I like the 35-55 AH AGM SLA scooter batteries. (SLA = sealed lead acid aka non-spillable) If you turn of heated hose & humidification (passover humidification is okay) they will last a few nights. See the ResMed battery guide for more detailed run estimates at https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/198103_battery-guide_glo_eng.pdf.
Basic list of parts you need:
Depending on which CPAP machine you have:
Edit: the cigarette adapter is only optional for ResMed since it comes with a clamp adapter - Philips does not. I'd still get one though since it can bolt to the battery terminals.
I am only aware on one user claiming there was an error and that user correlated that to his recent install of a hardwired blackvue. No real science there and highly speculative.
The way I hardwired into the 12v was simple. I bought this: NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
and installed on the battery terminal. It has an in line 10amp fuse and tucks away neatly under the hood. Then I ran the blackvue power cable into the car through the firewall where Tesla provides a very nice rubber plug to do so. Everything took about an hour to do (and I did it twice after doing it the first time without a fuse and it worked fine - just wanted to be extra safe)
Endless Breeze Stand alone Fan
https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-01100WH-Endless-Breeze-Stand/dp/B0000AY2Z6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1472756020&sr=1-1&keywords=endless+breeze+12+volt+fan
55 ah battery
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Exell-12V-55Ah-SLA-Battery-Rechargeable-AGM-replaces-UB12550-45825/186361686
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12V Male to Male Outlet Charger Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTOSTE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Window Vent Visors for ventilation....
You start with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G8WLW2Y/
Then your second battery has a socket to plug in things. Use the double headed cable to connect your battery to the vehicle cigarette lighter.
The vehicle cigarette lighter wire is small, too much resistance, not a good way to charge.
What kind of range do you want? 12V battery + adapter + Car FM adapter. Plug in your phone and you can transmit whatever audio you play. Perfectly legal under FCC Part 15 rules.
Edit: fix link
Any bike you want.
I built this setup recently:
https://old.reddit.com/r/bonnaroo/comments/bfy56y/mini_solar_rig/
A few other odds and ends brings it close to $400 total.
The charger controller is overkill for the one panel, and you don't need a lithium battery necessarily, but you also have to be careful what lead acid you get as most are not built for deep cycling. You can probably get a much larger capacity solar or marine deep cycle lead acid for what I paid.
You could also get a 12v socket - http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Socket-Eyelet-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ for instance - tap it off your existing 12v socket fuse with an add-a-fuse - http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ - and hide it all in the dash somewhere. That way you have no permanent mods.
I have a charge controller, but the door is directly attached to the battery terminals. As for the camera, I used the advice from this group and bought a car charger with USB ports plugged into this:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Adapter-Socket-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y
I had to strip the wires and crimp different terminals on them since they didn’t fit on the battery bolt.
Nah op, just buy a deep cycle battery and isolator relay to charge it off your engine. Then you can silently charge things at night etc.
Also buy
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wa9EybWJA9XPG
And any usb cigarette adapter for charging your devices off the battery.
As it sounds like you will be in cold weather here is a bonus. It seems pricey but is so effective. Temperature settings and everything.
DC12V Electric VACUUM INSULATED kettle boil cup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H4OYITE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ac9EybYMT5M1F
I have mine hard-wired to the fuse box (on only when ignition) - I did not use a kit, rather used a piggy back fuse thingy and this for pluggin it in (cut the red-end to attach it to the tap-fuse end).
It is more stable/better quality than the kits... and has an inline fuse for added protection.
I got a 40ah AGM for $140 at Interstate battery not too long ago and it worked perfectly on my last tent camping trip. Got 4 nights of out it without power. No humidifier and heated tube of course. See if there is a dealer local to you. I've seen cheaper AGMs also but this is an investment if you go camping often The dealer also will charge my AGM for free every 6 mo. Get a volt meter to take charge measurements. Grab a cigarette lighter plug hardwire kit that can handle the amps you need and hardwire it to the terminals. The clamps that came with my kit are almost worthless.
Links to some of the things I purchased and am happy with:
Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station
Hakko FX-901/P Cordless Soldering Iron
NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal
Carviya 12V 24V Heavy Duty 16 AWG 15A 20A Male Plug Cigarette Lighter Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0748GKHZ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115896&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=80w+folding+solar&dpPl=1&dpID=51GlBo5rIvL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K8E0WAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115963&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=35ah+battery+deep+cycle&dpPl=1&dpID=51TNL6zn1RL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115996&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12v%2Bbattery%2Bsocket&dpPl=1&dpID=511ZvmcpmsL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
I thought of getting the yeti 150. But went with this instead due to 2-3x capacity, and cost. The only thing i didn't get was an inverter, which i don't need
/u/SirDigbyChknCasear is right, the Escort 8500 uses 12V according to the manual.
OP, I would get something like this 12V socket, figure out where the radar detector's power cord meets the vehicle's harness (presumably somewhere behind the dash), and splice this in there. Do it properly - either using solder and heat shrink or using appropriately-sized butt connectors. Don't just twist the wires together and slap on some electrical tape. From there, you can plug in the dash cam's power adapter and run its cable separately while still maintaining a fairly clean look. Depending on how the radar detector is turned on and off, you may want to add a switch somewhere.
If the dash cam has a power adapter that isn't just a standard "cigarette lighter" plug, then you can probably wire it in without the 12V socket adapter. I can't help more without more info.
It's kinda like trying to weigh a letter for postage with a scale set up on a trampoline full of kids. It's bouncing up and down, so it looks like the letter weight is going up and down because it doesn't have a stable reference point because it's getting noise from the power line.
Laptop, you'd have to find a DC adapter for that model of laptop. Dell used to make some, not sure about other brands. They are kinda pricey considering you already have the inverter.
For phones, there are a couple different charge technologies, but they are all USB (sort of). Normal 5v USB is limited to 0.5 amps, so it charges slow. There is a higher power 5v USB, which is I believe 1.1 amps, and then there are USB charging adapters that put out somewhere around 2 amps. 2 amps is about the limit for the cable, so to charge faster than that they have what are called 'quick charge' adapters, which operate at voltage higher than 5v, either 9 or 12v depending on the device being charged.
Most of them are wall adapters, so I'm assuming that's what you mean by 'mains charging [was] faster'. But, they do make [DC quick chargers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OSX8UC?psc=1&smid=A142BGUZC6UH73) that will charge just as fast as the wall. It will also be more efficient than firing up a 1kw inverter to step it up to mains voltage to run a 30ish watt switching power supply that converts it back down to 5/9/12v. I'm not recommending that specific model; it seems to have good reveiws but I've never used that specific one.
Just make sure your phone supports quick charge, and know that there is quick charge, qc2.0 and qc3.0. They should be backwards compatible (it would charge at the highest voltage that both support), but I'm not 100% certain on that. You'd also need some way to connect that to the battery, something like this.
All of the KT-8900Ds that I have looked at have a cigarette lighter adapter. You can buy an adapter to go between the battery and radio like this. Otherwise a bit of cut and splice may be in order. As long as you have an appropriately rated fuse, you can wire straight to the battery.
Thank you! This is really helpful for me. I think I'll go with your approach of using a 12v socket USB adapter (most likely in the glove box); I don't want to risk a shoddy cable giving me problems when it's really hot/cold.
I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to electronics/car customization, so pardon any trivial questions.
Shopping List:
Something like this?
I wouldn't cut the end off the fridge, I'd think just use one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Socket-Eyelet-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R97VAZJ3VP025AT786SY
Battery, case, socket, splitter, charger
While it costs more than the orion/celestron ones, the battery is of much higher quality, it's more than twice the capacity, easily replaceable parts etc.
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Charger-Samsung-Qualcomm-Certified/dp/B01E764DXM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524747899&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+c+car+charger&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Adapter-Socket-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524747960&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+female+socket
I must apologise I didn't think the whole cigarette lighter battery charger thing through, as it turns out this will just blow your cigarette lighter fuse, since it may be possible that the deep cycle battery would draw to much current and since cars don't limit the current that goes through your cigLight socket ( as I originally thought). You can still charge your battery through your cigarette lighter but you will have to use this thing instead and maybe this connected to the battery to be able to charge it.
So I really don't have any links to all this since this is how we used to do it with our family outings (minus the charging the battery through the cig lighter port). At this point I'm maybe confusing you and would recommend to buy Yeti Goal Zero, since I don't feel comfortable giving advice on something that I haven't personaly tried, (charge the battery through the cig lighter thingy).