Reddit reviews OLFA 5003 L-1 18mm Ratchet-Lock Heavy-Duty Utility Knife
We found 13 Reddit comments about OLFA 5003 L-1 18mm Ratchet-Lock Heavy-Duty Utility Knife. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Professional strength stainless steel blade channel secures blade for the toughest of cutting jobsBlade is made of high-quality Japanese grade carbon steel and designed for unparalleled sharpness and superior edge retentionLong lasting and durable - a new sharp edge with just a snapEasy, tool-free blade changeGreat for cutting paper, cardboard, roofing, drywall, vinyl, acetates
Nice and innocent ;-)
Maybe you should do a weekly one like that. Since it got enough attention to hit the front page I would guess we were all down with it.
It absolutely works for that. Especially with card based games. On boardgamegeek.com I've seen the base game, intrigue, seaside, and prosperity in one box. One more tip based on my mistakes - get a good [utility knife] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006SJAR0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506310046&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Olfa&dpPl=1&dpID=3102gbTnywL&ref=plSrch) don't mess with foamwerkz. And a hobby knife only comes in handy for very fine detail which you likely won't need for a while.
Obviously, we all use utility knives in various styles and types, but I almost always have an OLFA 18mm Ratchet Utility Knife with their UltraSharp Black Snap-Off Blades. They are the most diverse knife I have used. They can be used to cut intricate designs from foam board to ripping through heavy-duty rope. I love OLFA stuff, more expensive up front, but I have knives I've been using for years and years at this point.
Thinner blades are better for cardboard. The issue isn't the cutting, it's the binding as the pieces move. You also want something that holds the blade well, because binding boxes will grab and pull a utility knife blade out of the knife if it's not well secured.
This guy is my new favorite utility knife. It's not the best for all situations, but it's the best for a lot of them and pretty good for all of them. Blades are a little more expensive "per tip" than the trapezoidal blades, but they're also thinner, which will be good for you. You could try the 9mm version that should be even thinner.
Xactos are probably good if you need to cut curves or details but for straight cuts you need a sturdy knife with a blade that won't flex. I use the Olfa 5003 with the Ultrsharp black blades.
For cutting, use a regular utility knife with replacable blades. I find exacto knives to be too small and fiddly for big work like this. I very strongly recommend splurging and getting ceramic blades. Metal blades wear out very quickly, but I still haven't even dulled one side of a ceramic blade on all of these inserts.
In lieu of that, a breakable blade utilty knife is a decent option as well. Just be sure to break the blade often to keep it good and sharp.
An Olfa knife. Especially if you're cutting/modeling out of wood, all blades will dull a lot quicker. Exacto knives and razors are more time consuming to change out, don't have the same level of sturdiness, and are overall more difficult to work with imo. Yes, you can get into finer detail work and use the sharp angled blade of an xacto for some niffty things, but I've used Olfas my entire school career and had 0 issues.
The blades are cheap and way easier to replace (simply snap them off). The larger and more grippy handle make it easier to do large cuts. They also sell a smaller Olfa knife that can have the same dexterity as an xacto with the blade snapping and "holability" of an olfa.
Xacto has been the go-to for a long time. Some of the principals I've worked with in the past all referred to them as the norm. But they've been almost completely replaced by olfas at my school because of the parity in usability.
Chances are pretty good, I'd say. Use a long, thin knife like this and lots of patience. Slice away at each glue line and eventually the whole thing should lift off.
90% of the time... just my fingers (and fingernails).
But I also have:
Ahh. An adjustable blade razor knife is what I use so I can set depth of cut and score the jacket without popping through. The ones with the locking wheel, not just the tab used to push the blade out. Like this one.
A thin sharp blade will help you remove it. You can use a sharpened putty knife or OLFA blade or flat bar. Sometimes it helps if you heat it up with a torch 1st.
If you’re really having a hard time, I highly suggest these
utility knife
I don't think a carving knife is necessary. One of these is my #1 suggestion for foam carving. Make sure you get a bunch of spare blades; foam dulls 'em like nobody's business.