Reddit Reddit reviews Ontel SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set

We found 36 Reddit comments about Ontel SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Ontel SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set
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36 Reddit comments about Ontel SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set:

u/gunslinger_006 · 50 pointsr/motorcycles

>So I've given up and have booked it in to the workshop, but I just hate how I cant seem to accomplish the simplest of mechanical tasks, I'm really just venting here. fuck my useless mechanical ability, I just ruin things like screw heads when I try >:( >:(

Few pointers from a guy whose been wrenching for a long time:

  1. Every guy like me got to where we are by making a fucking disaster of various jobs and having to sort our way out. Shit, I learned how to extract broken bolts by...you guessed it...breaking bolts! It happens. Take it as a chance to learn a new skill and your overall skill will grow...get discouraged and book a mechanic and you will not learn the skills you need to grow as a mechanic. There is no gain without pain.

  2. Some screws are made of fucking cheese and are going to strip no matter what you do, if they were put in hard and haven't been removed in a long time (or if they were painted, or rusted, or someone used the wrong locktite, or some dumbass jb welded them in place). This is just a fact of life, that sometimes you do everything right and you still ruin a screw.

    So what do you do?

    For those soft screws that love to strip: You use an impact screwdriver to break it loose and/or a good creeping lubricant to break the rust (PB blaster, Kroil).

    Once you munge a screw up badly, you will need an extractor set. I recommend you learn this skill by deliberately ruining a few screws that yo have screwed into a board and use the set to get them out.

    Here is one example of an extractor kit:

    http://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414453572&sr=8-1&keywords=screw+extractor

    My advice to you:

  3. Get an extractor kit and learn how it works.

  4. Get an impact screwdriver and learn how it works.

  5. If your problem is a bolt (m8 or larger) that is frozen, an impact driver (either electronic or pnuematic) is your best friend. There are some jobs like brake caliper bolts that practically demand an impact driver due to the rusting involved, and are prone to shearing the head off if you use a large bar instead of an impact driver. Every mechanic has one for a reason...they are necessary for many jobs on cars and motorcycles.

  6. Cut yourself some slack.

  7. If you are going to call in for help (we all have done it), you can start by taking your bike in and having a mechanic just get that screw out. Then you can finish the job yourself by ordering new screws from your dealer (the parts guy will help you find the right part numbers and order them for you...be nice to the parts guy, he is a tremendous ally!).

  8. DO NOT give up on learning to work on your bike!

  9. IF YOUR FAIRING SCREWS ARE PLASTIC...plastic is a WHOLE different animal and they are a nightmare. If this is what you are dealing with, let me know and I'll post different steps for you.

  10. NEVER use the wrong size phillips screwdriver! Using one that is even slightly too small or too large will result in stripping. You should have a nice selection and always make sure you are using the correct one for the screw. This is VERY important for soft screws like plastic, aluminum, and brass.

  11. The last point is also applicable to TORX, and HEX nuts/screws. I'm pretty much convinced that Torx was a created by a sadist to introduce untold suffering onto the world. Treat every TORX screw/bolt like it will strip on you. NEVER mistake a T27 for a T25 or you will have a bad day for sure. Harley Davidson loves to put soft torx screws all over their bikes and its maddening.

  12. Learn when a 12 point socket is ok, and when a 6 point socket is ok. 6 point = high torque application. 12 point - only for low torque applications. I almost never use 12 point sockets these days.

  13. Wear safety glasses anytime a power tool or compressed gas/air is in use. You will thank me for this one later.


    EDIT: Thanks for the gold, whoever sent that. Totally unnecessary but I appreciate it and gold helps reddit avoid selling out completely to advertisers. Cheers!
u/rui_lima · 19 pointsr/fixit

Go to your local hardware store and buy a screw extractor kit or a left hand drill bit, they're cheap and easy to use(i'll put an example at the end of the comment) punch the screw um the middle and with the extractor kit(instructions should be included) or with a left hand drill bit just drill ir out, it should come right of, i used the following kit to remove a broken crankshaft pullei bolt with success:

https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=screw+extractor+kit&qid=1574073325&sprefix=screw+extracto+kit&sr=8-8

If you have any other questions, ask, im here to help.

u/Narcopolypse · 19 pointsr/motorcycles

I know it's a little late now, but for future reference these work amazingly well: https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4

u/Blaskowski · 8 pointsr/wiiu

I don't know if that screw would be too small for this tool but I have used it for stripped screws and it works well.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4

u/slavejamhour · 7 pointsr/sysadmin

Firstly, sorry about your holiday.

Secondly, I've done this a few times now. Make sure that you double your downtime from what you are planning. Unless all the equipment is brand new, something WILL go wrong.

If any equipment is in with screws have a set of EasyOuts, they will save a ton of time if there are stripped screws.

I pre-label everything (cables, switches, machines) and then create a spreadsheet with each cable ID and associated switch/machine port IDs. This gets documentation out of the way and my focus is solely on racking and cabling.

This is a huge undertaking; make sure that you take the time to plan first, then execute. If you don't you're asking for trouble.

u/squiresuzuki · 6 pointsr/bikewrench

I was on tour a year ago and brought my bike to this one-man bike/ski shop and he managed to strip both of my XTR crank pinch bolts just like yours. Had to bring it to another shop and they drilled out the head on one of the bolts and that was enough to ease tension pull it off. Finally got around to removing those stuck bolt pieces yesterday with this screw extractor set, which worked really pretty well.

Anyways, the key to using the larger wrenches with higher torques and small bolts is to use one hand to hold it steady in place at the pivot so that there's no chance of misalignment.

And yes, Shimano sells bolts just for your crank. Assuming you have 105 5800 cranks, the shimano part number is Y1GS21000

Oddly enough, the bolt is not available on the bike shop distribution companies, nor anywhere else online (in the US). The only place I could find it is in this ebay listing from the UK: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-HollowTech-II-Crank-Arm-Pinch-Clamp-Bolt-105-Tiagra-XT-SLX-Deore-/191815279489

However, I'm 99% sure this one would also work fine http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-Hollowtech-II-Pinch-Bolt-Single-For-Hollowtech-Ii-Crankarms

You could probably also get a generic bolt to work -- it's an M6 bolt and it's 21mm in length (as long as the head fits in the slots).

u/t2231 · 6 pointsr/woodworking

This style of screw extractor has worked well for me in the past: https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4/

u/BassistBenoit · 5 pointsr/XR650L

Ok I got ya on this. I recently had all three bolts on my oil filter cover snap in the casing while I was working on it. (p.s if that ever happens to you, do not torque them to 7 ft/lbs as stated in the manual, just tighten to snug)

The reason this happens is that Honda cheaped out on screws, I guess in the event that those break before more important parts do. It's scary but not the end of the world

First thing I would always recommend is either downloading a factory service manual if you can find one. As well as BUY A HAYNES / CLYMER MANUAL. It will save you in the future.

a quick google turns up this, tada:

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/610432-xr650l-owners-manual-inside/

and heres the clymer link to buy one:

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-XR600R-1991-2000-XR650L-1993-2012/dp/1620921537/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-Nv0_9vm4wIVhRx9Ch1KeQ5-EAAYAiAAEgLtS_D_BwE&hvadid=177528169391&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032056&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6356380794860257313&hvtargid=kwd-10840489131&hydadcr=6586_9585033&keywords=clymer+xr650l&qid=1564835915&s=gateway&sr=8-1

So back to these screws. you need to extract em. good news is they are soft and easy to extract. use a speed out kit : https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2BIIO15IIO5JY&keywords=screw+extractor&qid=1564835981&s=gateway&sprefix=screw+ex%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-3

Basically what you are gonna do is use one side of the bit to drill a cone shaped hole in the top if the screw, then take it out, flip it around, and use the other side to SLOWLY extract it. Boom, easy and out. just go slow and don't rush it. you will thank yourself.

If you do mess up the threads, consider installing a helicoil so it can easily be saved in the future.

Next you need to find the screw. Your amazing new manual will have the parts diagrams all in it, so start there. If you just can't be bothered to read, we have the glorious internet! Hondapartshoues, Babbits online, and many others will help you find the size.

Look how easy it is! Here is the diagram for the screw in question:

https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/hon/5054117cf870021c54bee45d/handle-switch-cable

It is a m5x16 panhead screw. I personally would go down to your local ace, and get the same size screw in a harder material. Either 10.9 or stainless, or even chromey bois as they will have it all. But if you just must must must have OEM, order it from that site. I am guilty of this sometimes even though it is so much more expensive.

Anywho good luck! hope this helps.

Anywho good luck!

u/PirateKilt · 3 pointsr/guns

Snag a SpeedOut kit off amazon or your local tool place

u/Stem3576 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have removed many of those types of hex heads. You need to go to a hardware store and purchase a drill bit called an ez-out. Here is what they look like

u/konzy27 · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

These work as a last resort providing the head is large enough. Pivot screws are usually plenty big enough.

u/Corndogginit · 2 pointsr/bicycling

If you have an electric drill, these work better than cutting slots in screws

https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor/dp/B00IRL3WP4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5

u/alientity · 2 pointsr/cars

OP: you need to get your hands on a screw/bolt extractor kit. Most hardware stores sell them (or Amazon). Everyone should have one of these kits, they can be a life saver.

If you happen to have a dremel around, you could also try to cut a slot so you can use a flat-head screwdriver (have done this successfully several times).

u/wontpassme · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

[Haven't seen them mentioned yet but these things will save you from many fucks.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WAeuub0TTK73R)

u/Styer22 · 2 pointsr/3dprinter

My best recommendation... [linked below] The teeth grab in a counter clockwise direction and could give you the leverage you need to get the threaded piece out

Ontel SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_quqIDbX33B1DA

u/Jadenewfie · 2 pointsr/DIY

There are also 'bits' you can buy for a drill that run in reverse and 'bits' into the bolt in order to grip better and torque it out. Similar to this https://www.amazon.ca/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4

u/DrewOnBass · 2 pointsr/Dell

You could try a flat head that is the width of the widest part of that hole. You could also try a screw removal bit such as this one: Ontel SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-XdGAb8WRRP78
Third option could be to take a Dremel and cut at flat-head slot in the top. Good luck not damaging the laptop tho

u/skiwithpete · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've used these extractors on a drill http://amzn.to/1CVA7aq - they work perfectly, I just don't know if they're going to be too big to fit in that hole.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

Screw extractor set. Possibly a very small drill bit, as well. There are a variety of kits for removing broken and stripped screws. The one linked may not be small enough for the knife.

u/woodkeys_click · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

They make tools like this to remove stripped screws. You could try putting a little oil or WD-40 on the threads which should make it easier to remove.

For future reference, it's always best to put a little light grease on steel screws to avoid stripping the aluminum.

u/k0uch · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Snag this set

https://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4

Iv used this kit probably a hundred times, never snapped one bit. If it did snap, then you'd hav fresh grade 8 steel to weld on to. In all hon sty, I bought this exact set from walmart for $5.99, if it didn't work I wasn't out any real money. I was pleasantly surprised when it worked the first time, and the many times after that were just icing on the cake

u/hiphop_dudung · 1 pointr/Philippines

The last line was confusing.

I'm overseas so I don't really know any place but as somebody who dealt and still deals with fucked up screws, read this.

What kind of device do you have? If the screw is small, then I'd recommend a speedout tool https://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4

Or you put a piece of rubber over the head and push down with a screwdriver then unscrew. You wanna keep a constant downward pressure while unscrewing.

If your "device" is big enough to withstand a stronger force and the screw head is big enough, use a Johnson bar.

Lastly, my favorite one, make the screw head a flat head. Make a groove on the head to fit your flat head and that should do the trick.

Or you can say fuck it and drill the crap out of the screw until it's reduced to shavings

u/LordGoji · 1 pointr/Cubers
u/saltac · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I use this trick all the time, it's so simple and yet awesome. And when that fails I use this.

u/blacksheepcannibal · 1 pointr/aviationmaintenance

Spent my first several weeks working GA as, basically, a panel bitch. Combined with time in the USAF where power tools were not allowed and coin-slot screws were commonplace, I have an extremely well-exercised skillset in removing stuck screws.

Screwgun, using snap-on bit, won't get it out? Use the ratcheting screwdriver with those biting bits - you can get more direct force on it.

Ratcheting screwdriver with biting bit won't get it out? Oh, it's gonna come out, I'm not asking. Get the speed handle with almost-new bit, with a little valve-lapping compound on the tip. Put a lot of pressure downwards towards the screw, and first try the pop method - give the handle some pops. That doesn't work? Grab a rag, fold it up, and use your whole body to put maximum force on that little screw, and slow turn it. If you feel it start to slip? Stop. It's time to stop playing. Get the SpeedOut.

Drill out that head. Flip around, use the right-angle screwdriver (sometimes also called a Yankee, whatever works) to put a lot of pressure and slooooowly bite that sucker into that new hole. Continue with slow, even pressure to get the screw to break. That's not working? Okay, you've got a special snowflake, this fixes 95% of stuck screws.

Left-hand drill bit, waaaaaaaay down deep in the screw, and the pointy-type easy out you usually get from snap-on with the T handle. Drill clean thru the screw if you gotta, get MAXIMUM PENETRATION. Turn that sucker out, slow stead pressure to get it to break.

Still not working? Holy fuck. Use a bigger left-hand drill bit, and use the wrench-type easy out that is usually for bolts. Put some valve lapping compound on there for good measure, just to be sure.

That's not working? Fuck it. It ain't coming out. Drill the whole thing out, you're gonna need to rivet in a new nutplate. If it's not countersunk, drill it out like a rivet. If it is countersunk, well shit. You can try to drill it like a rivet, or you can match the hole and take the nutplate and all with it.

If that somehow fails, you're replacing significant levels of sheetmetal.

u/SirMontego · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

I've seen the rubber band trick on just about every "picture list of life hacks." I've tried it about four times and have never been able to make it work.

In my experience the only things that work are using a dremel to carve out a new groove, getting a pair of pliers and turning the screen or, if you can't get to the screw with pliers, use a screw extractor, like this: https://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=zg_bs_2225074011_1

u/Pyromaniac34 · 1 pointr/airsoft

Not sure how far down that is, but if you have a drill, you can purchase "easy-outs". In order to use one, you take a drill bit slightly smaller than the easy out, drill a hole into the screw you are trying to get out, then use the easy out to extract.

Easy outs are essentially reverse threaded bits that bore into the screw and then, when it reaches the bottom of the hole you pre-drilled, turns the screw out.

A set like this can be found for cheap at your local hardware store

u/Immortal_Enkidu · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I use Grabit for work but these will work as well. You can also get one from any hardware store, lowes/home depot.

I use these things all the time at work and they are very helpful timesavers

u/ARKnife · 1 pointr/knives

You could try to use stripped screw extractor.

Worked for me with some screws.

u/TacoDaTugBoat · 1 pointr/rccars

Time to buy a set of EZ out s
SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8xmxxb6TY2MJM
Designed to run in a drill in reverse. Grabs in and backs it out.

u/dbinkerd · 1 pointr/ar15

Use the heat gun as suggested, and either this or this from your local big box hardware store.

u/niagaraballz · -5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

SpeedOut Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9a3Dub1RZ8KAW