Reddit Reddit reviews Optimal Shop 20+4 Pin LCD Computer Power Supply Tester for SATA IDE HDD ATX ITX BYI Connectors-Black

We found 29 Reddit comments about Optimal Shop 20+4 Pin LCD Computer Power Supply Tester for SATA IDE HDD ATX ITX BYI Connectors-Black. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Electronics
Computers & Accessories
Computer Power Supplies
Computer Components
Computer Internal Components
Optimal Shop 20+4 Pin LCD Computer Power Supply Tester for SATA IDE HDD ATX ITX BYI Connectors-Black
8-in-1 ATX power supply tester: Support testing 20-pin IDE/24-pin IDE/HDD/floppy disk 4-pin/PCI-e 6-pin/4-pin/8-pin/SATA connector.Aluminum alloy shell: light and easy to carry, high strength, good thermal conductivity and corrosion resistance.1.8" LCD screen: The output voltage is displayed on the 1.8" LCD screen, which is easy to read (1.8" LCD screen is powered by the 20-pin/24-pin connector). Note: Is there a scratch on the product screen? Because the screen is easy to scratch, we put a protective film on it, if you think it is not beautiful, you can tear it off by yourself.Buzzer alarm: When your power supply PG number fails, the power tester will emit a buzzer alarm, which is easy to know.When testing with HDD/floppy disk 4-pin/PCI-e 6-pin/4-pin/8-pin/SATA connector, the indicator on the left shows the output voltage (+12V + 3.3V + 5V).
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29 Reddit comments about Optimal Shop 20+4 Pin LCD Computer Power Supply Tester for SATA IDE HDD ATX ITX BYI Connectors-Black:

u/z932074 · 4 pointsr/computertechs

None of the below links are affilliate.

  • PSU Tester

  • Cat-5 (or 6) Tester
  • Type 2032 CMOS batteries
  • Compressed Air
  • AA / AAA Batteries (When the client can't figure out why their wireless keyboard and mouse just won't work anymore ;) )
  • USB image of latest Mac OS release (Sierra) and Yosemite.
  • Patience

    If you're getting into more network layer stuff, you'll want a cable toner, RJ-45 Ends, Cat 5 or 6 Cable, RJ-45 Crimper as well.
u/itomeshi · 3 pointsr/buildapc

With an old power supply, there are a few things to keep in mind.

One of the biggest risks is capacitor damage - aging and bursting. Capacitor bursting is less common now, as the root causes were generally discovered - but a really old component or a cheap manufacturer could still run into them. Capacitor aging is still an issue - most capacitor types do suffer from this, and the general affect is that the power supplies overall rating reduces over time. This is so common that the popular OuterVision Power Supply Calculator references it as an issue (albeit less than it used to - see 'Computer Utilization Time'.

All components can fail, however. A few examples:

  • Bad solder joints may worsen over time and join or short.
  • Wires can break at stress points.
  • Connectors can loosen.
  • Insulation can melt.
  • Fans can die.
  • Dust can worsen heat management.

    This isn't to say don't use one! Just know the risks and act accordingly:

  • Use a UPS: Giving a power supply a clean input signal without drops minimizes issues. For a power supply less able to handle issues, preventing them is important. Remember: One of the jobs of a power supply is to fail without taking out all of your other hardware!
  • Clean it: Get dust out of there.
  • Test it: Use a power supply tester like this to make sure outputs are good. Make sure the fan spins at load (some fans don't engage at low usage levels). As best as you can, look in and make sure no components appear to be damaged.
  • Don't push it: As mentioned, an old PSU can and will lose capacity. Use a calculator to figure out your power needs. Don't overdraw, and don't come close on old PSUs. (For example, if a 750w PSU is 5 years old, I wouldn't push a build that needs over 550w or so on it.) Make sure individual lines aren't exceeding their limits.
  • Manage the risk: Using any component is a risk - even a new power supply can start a fire if defective or damaged. That said, act accordingly: If you just saved up for a 1080Ti and would be distraught if it died? Protect it with a good PSU and a UPS.

    I have some systems that have good PSUs that have lasted for well over 5 years. I have some that failed after a year or two. It's all situational, but you're safest when you think it through. Overprovisioning power usage from the start is a big help.
u/Route66_LANparty · 3 pointsr/buildapc

There's nothing inherently wrong with using extensions or custom cables (if you bought/were shipped the right ones). BUT YOU HAVE TO TEST THEM. There's too much chance of human failure with custom cables/extensions.

https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Computer-Supply-Connectors/dp/B00Q8SUYHW/ or https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/

At this point I'd test the powersupply both with and without the extensions. But you need to test that power supply!

When you build fancy, you have to "bench test" first. No fancy LEDs, just the base components on a non-conductive/anti-static surface. If you don't have such a surface, then just test the basics in the case.

u/billy_gnosis44 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Optimal Shop 20/24 4/6/8 PIN 1.8" LCD Computer PC Power Supply Tester for SATA,IDE,HDD,ATX,ITX,BYI Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q8SUYHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qMdRzb9B3AH0S

Looks like a rebrand and I haven't checked the integrity of the reviews, but for sub $20 it's a good diagnostic tool for future maintenance/troubleshooting.

u/WatIsRedditQQ · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

You don't really need a GPU to test a PCIe cable. You can get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Computer-Supply-Connectors/dp/B00Q8SUYHW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502243973&sr=8-4&keywords=psu+tester

I have this exact one and it has been infinitely useful to me. Alternatively you can simply test each pin with a voltmeter if you have one

u/AssSombrero · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yeah returning is a good idea. Just for future info, power supply testers are pretty cheap on amazon and can be very helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Computer-Supply-Connectors/dp/B00Q8SUYHW

u/-UserRemoved- · 2 pointsr/buildapc

OP you can get a PSU Tester for like $15, it's cheaper than getting a new PSU

u/jrizz43 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'd pick up one of these and test the PSU. If you have another PSU around, throw that in there and test it. Seems like a power issue.

u/Vulfilla · 2 pointsr/computertechs

I've had zero issuess with mine. Had it about a year. I used to double check with a voltmeter but I definitely trust the results now.

u/tanafras · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Please do a jumper test on the PSU without it connected to the PC; or if you're not comfortable/familiar with that do a quick PSU test with a tester.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-power-up-an-ATX-Power-Supply-without-a-PC/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-jG3vqRQHM
http://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Computer-Supply-Connectors/dp/B00Q8SUYHW

Having the ability to turn on the fan and the dvd but not the fan on the cpu / mobo makes me wonder if you have correct voltage or not from the psu through the mobo on the 20/4 pin outs.
OTOH, your box is what - 5-7 years old? It's possible it's dead after that length of time.




u/Madblood · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I'm not familiar with that particular Fluke, but I Googled the manual for it and it it appears you are using it properly, however the meter itself may not be suited to checking for low voltages. According to the manual, it will automatically switch to AC or DC voltage measurement if it encounters a voltage greater than "about 3 volts." Some of the voltages you're looking for are 3.3 volts and 5 volts DC, so the meter may stay in diode check or continuity mode. If so, the beep is telling you that there is continuity, which doesn't really help. Or it could be beeping to let you know it's changing modes when you hit the 12 volt rails. And "about 3 volts" could mean 5 volts or more, depending on the individual meter.Basically, when you're taking the reading, if the meter's display doesn't show V and DC near the numbers, it's not reading voltage.

With the black probe grounded, you should get the following voltages using the red lead on these wires:

Yellow : +12V
Red: +5V
Orange: +3.3V
Blue: -12V
Gray: Should go fro 0 to 5 volts when you press the computer power button (which is essentially what you are doing when you jumper the green and black wires with a paper clip.)

If the PSU fan is not spinning up at all when you put the paper clip in and turn it on, though, the PSU is probably dead or dying.

I recommend getting a cheap power supply tester like this one. It's easier to use than a voltmeter for this purpose, and a lot safer than the paperclip trick.

u/kk0425 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Get something like this to test the PSU if you're not sure. It doesn't have to be that exact one, I just searched on Amazon for PSU tester and clicked the first one that looked decent.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q8SUYHW/ref=pd_sim_147_5?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00Q8SUYHW

u/emmcali · 1 pointr/techsupport

I ran Prime95 with no restarts, so I guess that means CPU and motherboard are fine?

I ran FurMark and my PC restarted 5 seconds into the test.

Is there a way to figure out if my PSU or GPU is at fault? It has to be one or the other right? Test PSU with voltage meter like this amazon . How would I test if its the GPU? I don't have extra parts to swap with.

u/matsix · 1 pointr/techsupport

You'd be surprised at how often new parts go bad. Defects are actually a very common thing. So if your solution doesn't fix it try looking into buying some sort of power supply tester.

[This is the one I use at my shop] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Q8SUYHW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467820928&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=power+supply+tester&dpPl=1&dpID=51BT85YewlL&ref=plSrch)

It works pretty good and is cheap

u/Aiml3ssCalam1ty · 1 pointr/techsupport

It's possible that the PSU has failed. You can pickup a PSU tester for pretty cheap on Amazon or you could check with a store that sells computer components if there's one in your area. https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Computer-Supply-Connectors/dp/B00Q8SUYHW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=PSU+tester&qid=1555832897&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

It's also possible the motherboard failed but lets hope it's just the PSU. You could also grab a decent replacement PSU for not too much. Just make sure not to buy a dirt-cheap PSU as they can cause far more problems down the road. This PSU is less than $50 and has more than enough power for your rig https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Warranty-Power-Supply-100-N1-0750-L1/dp/B01LYRXRDI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=CX750&qid=1555833121&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

u/Computerknight54 · 1 pointr/buildapc

6 years seems pretty decent for me, personally I consider anything over ~5 years long enough to start considering upgrading anyways.

PSU failures are pretty rare. You can get a tester for them if you're worried similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Computer-Supply-Connectors/dp/B00Q8SUYHW

For 30 Euros more I'd absolutely say get the 1660 TI.

u/SirNastyPants · 1 pointr/Overwatch

The first step I'd recommend is checking VRAM usage and GPU temps (temperature more so, a 1060 has more than enough memory to handle Overwatch).

If temperature is fine then try reseating the card itself and the power connector and make sure both are secure.

If it comes down to it, try using DDU to completely remove the drivers and then reinstall.

From there make sure the PSU has sufficient wattage and is able to deliver the correct voltage (if you don't have a tester this one is pretty good).

Lastly, if none of that works, the card itself might be faulty. Try swapping the cards. Put the wife's 1060 in your machine and put your 1060 in her machine, then test both. If that fixes it for her and your machine now has the problem, the card itself is bad. If that doesn't change anything something else in her machine is faulty.

u/77xak · 1 pointr/buildapc

Since you've tested with 2 different PSU's with the exact same result, it almost certainly just sensor inaccuracy/error. The voltage isn't actually that high, the sensor is just reporting the wrong number. Of course the only way to verify PSU voltages 100% is with a PSU tester like this, or probing the pins with a multimeter as mentioned previously.

u/Dcm210 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Order this power supply tester and see what it says.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q8SUYHW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_xglPDb1SKZVHZ

u/kazoni · 1 pointr/techsupport

I wouldn't rule out the PSU yet. Even though the fan spins up, you may not be getting the full 12v/5v/3.3v on all the rails. Another thing is the Power Good signal might not be getting sent, etc. A cheap PSU tester (or multimeter) can help rule those out. This is what I use. There are cheaper versions out there so look around.

u/FuzzyPine · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

Let's assume they are not an electrician...

Using one of these would be much easier.

If they don't have a power supply tester, then /u/buddymanson 's process would rule out possible causes of failure. If the RAM is good, the next most likely cause is the PSU.

u/Reygle · 1 pointr/techsupport

These are relatively cheap.

u/clonetek · 1 pointr/computertechs

I just use a Power Supply Tester

u/wolfee182 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I would check the power supply. If the voltages are not close to the correct output or if they bounce around alot, then you can get some strange behaviors. I have a power supply tester like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q8SUYHW/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_wIBADb7FACANH

Some Bios will show you the voltages that the power supply is putting out. Try seeing if it tells you when you get it started one time. It should only take 10-30 seconds of watching to see. if the numbers bounce around a lot then i would replace it. (They should be +3.3, -3.3, +12, -12, +5 and -5 ) They generally are not exact, but within like .1. The most important part is that they are stable and not bouncing.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yah I know it’s pricey. For the PSU pick up a https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Computer-Supply-Connectors/dp/B00Q8SUYHW if the PSU passes take It to a micro center or a PC repair shop and tell em you tested the PSU and it’s fine so figure it out.

If it fails get another PSU, test it and if it passes slap it in ur system and see if it fixes anything. If not take it to mirco center/repair shop

u/AHrubik · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/parenormal · 1 pointr/techsupport

A good PSU tester is always handy to have.

Optimal Shop 20/24 4/6/8 PIN 1.8" LCD Computer PC Power Supply Tester for SATA,IDE,HDD,ATX,ITX,BYI Connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q8SUYHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_68ZIAbSGW8XHR