Reddit Reddit reviews Outward Hound Tail Teaser Dog Flirt Pole Toy, Play Wand

We found 38 Reddit comments about Outward Hound Tail Teaser Dog Flirt Pole Toy, Play Wand. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Outward Hound Tail Teaser Dog Flirt Pole Toy, Play Wand
Nylon cord for interactive exercise and funChase and tug action keeps dogs entertainedTwo faux-fur tails squeak and rattleNylon pole prevents you from touching a slobbery squeaker
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38 Reddit comments about Outward Hound Tail Teaser Dog Flirt Pole Toy, Play Wand:

u/tokisushi · 15 pointsr/Dogtraining

I say this with all the love in my heart - this situation is a hot mess. I am really sorry that this has exploded into such an unmanageable situation and I hope you can get in to see the behaviorist soon!

>She is destructive. She has hundreds of dollars in toys and a variety of them; however, she would rather chew the walls, the paint, the furniture, etc. or find something to get into (newspaper, trash, toilet paper, closets, shoes) than play with her toys.

  • Remove all items that she can get into from her reach. Buy trash cans with tight fitting lids, remove newspapers from areas she has access to, keep bedroom and bathroom doors closed or put up gates.

  • She needs to be in your sight at all times and should not have 'free reign'. Have her on a dragging leash and eyeballs on the puppy. If she starts to get into something - redirect to something else (a treat, a toy, a chew, etc)

  • If she cannot be watched, she needs to be in a puppy safe room. Put her somewhere with there are minimal things for her to get into and use gates to keep her contained.

  • Treat her like a brand new baby puppy. Keep working on crate training slowly, if you can (don't even close the door on the crate for the next month - just practice having her go in to eat meals, get treats or get toys). See Crate Training and Crate Games

  • Reinforce playing with toys. Give her a treat whenever you catch her with a toy or when she plays with you with a toy. Hide food in certain toys (like egg babies or IQ balls). Sit and play with a toy yourself and pretend it is the best thing ever - she will probably be curious and check it out.

    >She barks, ALL THE TIME, for NO reason, whatsoever.

    Is she barking at you? Out the window? AT something? Just walking around and making noise? Is she in heat? Has she always done this or is this a new behavior?

    >She is cage fearful and CANNOT be crated or confined in a room.

    If her reaction is that bad you may want to speak to the vet about getting her some medication to help her relax so you can train her - doesn't even have to be in a crate, it can be in a puppy safe room blocked by a high gate. Closed doors ARE really stressful for some dogs - you are basically locking them in a room where they cannot see or get out of it (so I get the anxiety). Crate usually work better as they can still SEE out of them. You need to work on getting her comfortable alone in a space - large or small - or you are going to have huge problems for an extended period of time.

    If she never likes crates, that is fine, many dogs dont really like them, but if she can't be in a room by herself, even, that is an issue. Medication, thundershirts, very slow methodical introduction to these new situations can all help you get you where you need to be.

    >Temper-tantrums- If she is not getting what she wants, she bites people, she scratches them, she barks at them, she jumps on them, etc.

    Dogs don't really throw 'temper tantrums'? Unless it is effective in getting her what she wants.

    If she is doing something you do not like, you need to be very calm, level headed and firm (but not forceful or intimidating). She does NOT get what she wants when she is acting inappropriately. Help guide her to more desirable behaviors to get what she wants (ask for a sit or down or settle before she gets anything). See Nothing in Life is Free.

    >Tendency for food aggression- She has on four occasions gone after the other dog in our house during meal time; again, this is for no reason, the dog will not be anywhere near her and she will run across the house and attack the other dog.

    If she cannot be crated for meals, crate the other dog. Physically separate them. If there is another dog in the house it may be contributing to her added anxiety (some dogs just DO NOT get along well with other dogs in the same space). If she is going out of her way to attack the other dog, I would start to suspect that this is more so the case than simple food guarding.

    >She is not spayed, she has demodectic mange and cannot be spayed until this is treated. She came down with a fever on Saturday and threw up. She has had several bouts of conjunctivitis and my boss (a veterinarian) now believes she may be suffering from an auto-immune disorder. Bloodwork will give a more definitive answer tomorrow.

    Has she been healthy with you for extended periods of time since you have had her? It is very possible some of this behavior is related to being in a new place and sick. It is a bit extreme to blame it all on that, but I would not be surprised if she calmed down to some extent once she was back up to 100% health and had some time to settle in more. (I see she has only been with you 2 months). Spaying may also help as, at 7 months, that is around the time she should be getting her first heat (which can have a significant impact on behavior).


    You need to be doing a LOT more with this. Your dog sounds anxious and crazy and pent up. At 7 months old it is not unheard of for puppies to still not really be 'into' walks (partially because they don't 'get it' partially because they are going in and out of fear periods). Socializing and walks can be good - but there are a lot of other ways to get your dog exercise.

    One of the big things is going to be training - especially considering how out of control she is. Do more training - 5-10 minute sessions 3-5 times a day (or more!) keep them sort and focused and start with things she already knows. Look into clicker training and have her earn her meals this way. Be sure to crate or remove any other dogs from the area before you start working. Alternate rewards between treats and play. If she knows a skill REALLY well, fade treats all together and focus on other rewards.

    Play training games like hide and seek (have her sit/wait and move to another area - call her and reward for finding you. Start out really easy at first then increase the difficulty to where you are hiding behind doors or other objects) or 'find it' (hide treats under cups and have her find the cup with the treats - if she guesses wrong, shuffle and try again. If she guesses right, lift up the cup! There are lots of variations of this game out there, too, that uses toys or other objects).

    Try doing some free shaping training and work on reinforcing 'going to bed' on a mat or pet bed if she is afraid of crates.

    Play games in a safe area - like an empty baseball diamond or wide open area. Get a very long lead (30feet) so you can still control her if you need to. Play chase games, get a flirt pole, teach her how to fetch, work on obedience or just let her smell and explore. Going on 'hikes' on wooded or unpaved trails can also be very engaging and tiring for dogs.

    >What I have tried (consistently, for 2 weeks consecutively)

    This is not enough time. Pick ONE method and stick to it. If you are getting ZERO results after 1 month of consistent training (again, 5-10 minute sessions, 3-5 times a day) then you can make small modifications, but do not change the rules completely! Your dog is just going to get confused and frustrated if one day she is working to earn rewards and the next she is being rolled on her back for not recognizing that what you were saying to her was a cue.

    >Give her a job, a project, a responsibility, a schedule: Not a thing.

    You MUST be consistent with this and it should be a part of WHATEVER training method you go with - full stop. Again, Nothing in Life is Free is a really easy way to get your dog working to earn things (aka "a job") and a schedule is ideal for ANY dog (meal times, bathroom times, play times - most dogs thrive on routine).

    >Positive reinforcement: Bribing her with food has somehow taught her to beg for food and harass people while they are eating.

    This means you are doing it wrong. Positive reinforcement is not bribing - it is encouraging a dog to repeat behaviors by giving them things they want when they do specific tasks. Check out our training basics. If you are always using obvious food (e.g. "loaded lures") to get her to do things then she is going to become more focused on the food then learning actual behaviors.

    >Negative Punishment/ "Alpha" Training/ Dominance rolling: Nope, doesn't give a sht

    Avoid these things with a dog with behavioral issues to this extent - it can just prove to them that you are, in fact, dangerous and unpredictable and cannot be trusted. At this point, you REALLY need to foster trust with her! Check out What not to do to your best friend, Comments on "alpha" dominance theory, and The Culture Clash

    -- to be continued --
u/shinyumbreon1992 · 10 pointsr/dogs

Lots of big dog stuff here! Here's some nice things for the little guys (~25 lbs and under). Many of these items are good for big dogs, too; will note them with a * sign and list them first in each section.


  • Himalayan Dog Cheese Chew*: Long-lasting hard cheese chews; can be microwaved to make "cheesy popcorn" for your dog when it gets small enough to pose a swallowing hazard. Comes in a variety of sizes.

  • Brushless Toothpaste*: Our dog LOVES this stuff, and it keeps his breath smelling awesome. Also helps keep his teeth clean. May want to introduce these into the dog's diet slowly, as some are sensitive to the ingredients but acclimate over time. Comes in an even smaller size for the really tiny dogs, and bigger sizes for the big dogs :)

  • Freeze-dried chicken*: Easy to break into small pieces and sprinkle over your dog's kibble or regular food.

  • Stella & Chewy Meal Mixers*: Great to sprinkle over your dog's regular food for both nutrition and novel taste.

  • Fruitables Minis: Small and low-calorie; great for clicker-training your dog. Comes in a wide variety of flavors.

  • Crazy Dog Bacon Treats*: Also small and very-low calorie; another good clicker-training tool.


  • KONG Mini Squeaky Tennis Balls*: Great for dogs who like either balls, squeaky toys, or both! My dog had zero interest in balls before these, and they're still the only ones he'll play with. Come in lots of sizes; not good for strong dogs who like to chew up their balls.

  • Dog Tornado*: Easy introductory puzzle toy that's not too big for little dogs. Good for kibble, wet food, and treats. May be too big for dogs under 7 lbs.

  • Dog Tower: Another great introductory puzzle toy suitable for small dogs. Good for kibble and small treats. Not sure how this'll hold up to big dogs, although I think it'd be fine with the gentler ones.

  • JW Treat Pod: Kind of like the Kong, but better suited for gentler, 'licking'-type dogs. Easier to clean out as well, IMO; the small Kongs are so hard to get completely clean even with a brush.

  • Outward Hound Flirt Pole: Fun and easy exercise, the Outward Hound version is more lightweight and suited for small dogs.

    Harnesses, Collars, & Safety

  • Pet Stairs*: Large collection of pet stairs. Some on this page are suitable for large dogs as well.

  • Hurtta Active Dog Harness*: High-quality dog harness for dogs that love to run around the outdoors in all kinds of weather and elements. Comes in a variety of sizes; for dogs 7+ lbs.

  • Ruffwear Swamp Cooler*: Comes in XXS, XS, and S. Great for keeping your dog cool in the summer if you don't live in a humid area.

  • Hurtta Pet Overall*: Great for rain and snow; comes in a variety of small sizes. Fit perfectly on our Pom mix and very high quality.

  • Musher's Secret*: Protect your dog's paws in cold weather.

  • Sleepypod Clickit*: Crash-tested car harness, comes in a variety of sizes.

  • Sleepypod Mobile Carrier/Car Seat/Pet Bed: Crash-tested dog bed/car seat/carrier!

  • Lil Pals Step-in Mesh Harness: For the seriously small dogs.

  • Ollydog Marin Collar: Completely waterproof, rustproof, extremely durable, easy to put on...the perfect collar!


  • The Stuff Detangler and Conditioner*: Keeps your dog's coat looking clean and glossy; easy to apply and doesn't have a strong odor.

  • Lil Pals Grooming Kit: Miniature grooming tools for your miniature dog at a very affordable price.

    Edited to add more+formatting!
u/holykat101 · 7 pointsr/Dogtraining

Firstly, get your dog neutered. There are places that will do this at discount rates (look for mobile spay/neuter clinics in your area) or local shelters/humane societies. Google it. There is no reason to not neuter your dog (unless you are a certified breeder and you intend to breed this dog).

This is something that my trainer told me that I found really helped - by the time you've seen a dog or person on your walk, your dog has likely been aware of them for some time, either through his superior sense of smell or hearing. This means that as soon as you see a person, you need to start looking at his body cues (See Here and Here) and then react appropriately by redirecting or distracting. My own GSD (female, spayed, 1.5 years old) is almost always in the 'alert' or 'unsure' stage when she sees another dog while we are walking.

As for the other stuff, it sounds like you need to go back to basics. Find a treat or a toy that he really likes and use that to train and only to train (meaning he will not get it unless you are walking/training). For my dog, training treats consist of boiled chicken, string cheese, or hot dogs (depending on what is at hand) but sometimes even this doesn't work. The only toy that she goes consistently bonkers for is a flirt pole. Start off by training a heel command indoors. When he heels consistently inside (without being lured by treats) you can move it outside. Stick to just in front of/behind your house at first, then move to longer walks as he gets more and more consistent with the behavior.

Other than that, consider getting a 30 foot leash (like others have said) and play play play right before going for a walk. Use play time to train cues such as 'drop it' and 'stay'. I also recommend looking up some trainers on youtube (Zak George, Kikopup, Victoria Stilwell). Its not the same as having a professional trainer, but it does help a lot.

u/sydbobyd · 7 pointsr/dogs

/u/8armstohugyouwith describes it well. I bought mine on amazon, you can also make your own for cheaper.

u/dontaddmuch · 5 pointsr/puppy101

Hey man two weeks ago I was in the exact same situation you are. My GSD is a male and 14 weeks now. Since two weeks ago his mouth has gotten extremely softer. He still has an outburst here and there and I do lose my temper sometimes, but if its one thing this little guy has taught me, it's patience. I was at the end of my rope just like you guys and figured I would give it just a little more time and I have seen a huge difference in him in those two weeks. They don't call German Shepherd puppies land sharks for no reason. Now potty training is another thing....

Also, he does try to assert his dominance over me but thats become less frequent as well. He just wants to be a leader, you can tell. He used to hump me, got his first red rocket at 10 weeks, started marking at 12ish weeks (doesn't even lift his leg yet), so I can tell that if I'm not confident and assertive that he's just going to be a hassle to not only myself but others. You have to show him that those are your children and are more important that he is. One nice thing though is that he rarely barks and when he does I remove him from the situation.

Oh and I don't exercise him every day because of those damn hips, but I do play with him a lot. It helps that I currently stay at home all day but that's not going to last for too much longer so we'll see what happens afterwards.

Anyways, this turned out into a bit of a rant but if you want to talk just shoot me a PM or something.

Edit: Get her one of these!
It's like the best thing in the world to him. I'm also using it to teach him drop it so it works out. Only thing is he loves to chew on the chew toy and the rope so be careful with that or it'll come apart. Nothing some duck tape won't fix though, I hope.

u/epeacecraft · 5 pointsr/Dogtraining

Honestly, I would not risk it and switch to a flirt pole. Mine looks like a little squirrel and I imagine your dog would very much like that.

u/JaylieJoy · 5 pointsr/dogs

Something interesting to get is a [bob-a-lot.](
) Or a flirt pole!

Both are fun, interactive toys that you don't see too often and I would love to get them at a dog birthday party.

u/corgiQuin · 4 pointsr/corgi

Yes! I second this. I just got a different version of this toy today and we all LOVE it! We live in an apartment and I'm not comfortable taking my puppy out on walks since she still needs to finish her puppy shots. The toy in the model we got squeaks and rattles! Plus it comes with a second replacement toy to attach when the other gets worn out.

outward hound tail teaser

u/asire_ · 4 pointsr/dogs

I wouldn't recommend fishing line. It can get caught up in the dog or you and would be more painful than something thicker. Well, if you are as clumsy as my dog and I are, it can. My dog uses her paws and the cord on mine caught on her carpal pad. It gave her a little burn :(

She also once knocked my feet out from under me while chasing, which shocked us both but luckily we were both ok. I am really careful now to not have her cross behind me!

I have this one. I like it. The toys that came with it didn't last very long, but I just use other toys that I already had.

u/69321721 · 4 pointsr/dogs

We've just abandoned any stuffed toys for Joe, because what is enjoyable for him is methodically ripping them apart. The first thing he goes for is the tag, because he knows that comes off easily, and after that he goes for the seams :)

Anyway, best toys for him are ones that we play with together: this flirt pole is great and I'm surprised how sturdy it is; we have a rope tug toy (it used to be a snake but the head was stuffed and so it got ripped apart within 24 hours!); and we have a Hol-ee roller ball which he enjoys chewing occasionally and chasing even more rarely! The holes are a little big to put regular treats in, but once I put the end of his rawhide chew in there and he had a LOT of fun with it, and another time I stuffed it with socks and an old dishcloth for him to pull out the holes because I thought it would replace stuffed toys a bit more safely. Then he tried to eat my sock, so I haven't done it since :P But it's fine if you're going to supervise!

We also have a rawhide chew for him and an antler. He really likes the antler; I think next time I would get the antlers that are split down the middle so that it's even more attractive to him.

u/TheVikingCoffeeMan · 3 pointsr/PitBullOwners

I’d be interested to see if he was actually being “aggressive” or if he was just playing. As stated earlier pits have extremely high pain tolerances. (But they do in fact feel pain). I have bruises and one pretty gnarly scar from playing with mine who is about 80 lbs. Mostly, it happens when we go out to play fetch. He gets over worked and extremely excited and starts to come at me instead of the toy.

My suggestion: shut it down quickly. Simply grab the collar and get him to sit down, and don’t let him move until he is calmed down. The more you push, hit and kick, the harder he is going to try to bring you down, because that is how pits play, by trying to pin each other. Hitting your dog is never the answer.

Get or make a flirt pole , as it creates a greater distance between you the dog and the toy, which will help keep his attention focused on the toy and not on you.

u/vyndree · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

Oh and if your dog likes Kongs, these are great:

And they do squeak. Annoyingly so. I mostly use it when playing fetch, because I can't stand the squeak indoors. No stuffing.

And flirt poles are also great for supervised play and getting puppy energy out... I can't recommend them enough. They do rattle as well as squeak. Not super "tough", but thought it deserved a mention.

u/oreobees · 3 pointsr/shiba

Looks like you have a good list going, remember to update your pups microchip with your address and get him/her a tag with your details.

We got a 36 inch crate and it's plenty big for our boy (he's around 30 pounds).

Puppia harness is a great starter harness, it's soft and doesn't have a bunch of metal jingling pieces which our puppy HATED on his harness our breeder gave us.

Kibble, check out dog food advisor for reviews and ratings of foods content, we were using grain free salmon and sweet potato from chicken soup for the soul, it's decently priced and well rated I can't find it anywhere atm so we're switching him back to their normal kibble.

Salmon Oil is a lifesaver in the winter, our pup gets terribly dry skin and extremely itchy without it.

Start out with a puppy kong, they sell kong fillers that are cheese and peanut butter flavored, our puppy was pretty picky at first and only ate the cheese one, didn't like frozen kongs either.

I'd start with a Basic Collar here's a Dog Tag Silencer and a Break-away collar for outdoors or dog park. A dog was choked unconscious at our park so I typically just keep our guys ID tags on his harness and don't use a collar, but if you do I definitely recommend a break-away if you are primarily using a harness with it.

Items we found useful: Bed Liner, Crate Fence, Kong, Stainless Steel Bowls (highly reccomend US made do not buy any made in China for health reasons), Zippy Paws Hide and Seek toys, Potty/accident cleaner, Potty Bells, Anti-chew Bitter Apple spray, 50 ft Leash, Retractable Leash, Soft stop Leash extender, Car Seat Belt, Car Booster Seat, Gentle Shampoo, Comb, Travel Water Bottle, Flirt Pole, Special Treats, Chew Stick, Greenies

Sorry for the HUGE list lol, feel free to ask any questions!

u/norberthp · 3 pointsr/dogs

This is a flirt pole. It's basically like a giant cat toys for dogs. You'll want to avoid a lot of sharp turns and jumping with it until he's older. My dog loves this. He usually plays with it for an hour a day, which is great exercise since he's sprinting the entire time. It's also good for teaching impulse control (drop it, leave it, get it, wait)

I've heard a lot of stories about dogs becoming fixated on lights/movement after laser pointers to the point of obsession. I just don't think it's worth risking.

Socialization and obedience classes for sure. Aussies usually do well in competitive OB, if you're interested. Agility would be tons of fun too. There are online classes you take, as well. These shouldn't replace classwork (since you'll miss out on socialization and distraction training) but it will be something you can do at home. I recommend Fenzi for online stuff.

Mental stimulation is super important, especially for your breed. Aussies were bred to work and they need to be entertained and stimulated. Start with 5-10 minute training sessions throughout the day, as often as he seems interested. Use his meals for training sessions too so he has to earn every piece. This is an example of how to teach beginners nose work. There's a really great Fenzi intro to nosework class if this interests you. Tracking, hide and seek, barnhut etc are all examples. It's really anything that makes him work his brain.

edit: grammar

u/TIG23 · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I don't think I've been "formally" introduced to you lovely people even though I've seen some of your contests going on here before ;)

For gift one: Either [this] ( or [this] ( both I've been wanting for a long time because I saw that hat on a little girl at the school I used to work for and have been obsessed but can't find it anywhere, and I collect tickets from everything I go to... so having a way to organize them would be awesome!

For gift 2: Also decently under $20 is [this] ( which I would absolutely love because I just moved (again) and need to spend more time with my pups!

So c'mon...gimme something good! :b

(I don't know you, but I love you, you wonderful and beautiful people, you!)

u/fwizard226 · 3 pointsr/dogs

Have you tried a flirt pole for him to chase?

Also, what kind of training have you tried? He's only a puppy, so I'd hate for you to write him off as "dim" when really he just might not be...properly motivated. Check out Kikopup's puppy training videos and start clicker training to get him thinking, which should help tire him out (and training is always good).

Additionally, maybe look into an interactive feeder for another mental challenge. I use the Kong Wobbler to feed my dog her meals, and I think that might be the best thing I've purchased for her yet.

Edited to add: Hide and seek is also a great indoor game to get your pup moving and thinking. You can hide yourself and have him find you, or I just hide little treats around for my dog to sniff you. I can really tell her gears are turning and she's actually working when she plays this game! I'd also look into what kind of group training classes are in your area and talk to local trainers--he's definitely not to young to do basic obedience, and from there he may be able to start with classes like agility or flyball which will really wear out an active adult dog.

u/poweroflegend · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

I've got a high energy lab mix too, and as many people have said here, walking just doesn't cut it. Several people have recommended fetch, which has been a huge help. Additionally, this thing has been a lifesaver. Basically, anything that gets him running hard and will help you drain his excess energy quickly.

u/JaggBoom · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

I bet he would chase a flirt pole.

u/k_182 · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

I have a very high energy dog as well. He has separation anxiety and can be destructive when bored as well.
Crate training was hard and took more than 6 months but gives him a safe place while we are gone. He’s even gone into the kennel on his own one time when he saw me getting ready to leave!
Establishing a morning/daily routine also has helped a ton with that. That would also help with the house training!
As far as the energy goes, both mental stimulation and physical exercise are important. We take Benji to the dog park almost every day. If we don’t make it there, he gets a long (2-4mi) walk in the morning and evening. The exercise is good for me too! We got a martingale collar and that has helped a ton for the pulling! Highly recommend. We also got this toy which may help you as well- he loves it! Mental stimulation can be new smells or behavior/clicker/treat training.

Good luck!

u/bitchpants-mccrabby · 2 pointsr/shiba

Shibas play differently than other dogs. The best way we kept our girl interested in playtime with a ball was to get a cat toy - had a stuffed bird inside and made noise when it rolled. She loved it and it spurred her prey drive. We also got a dog-hearty flirt pole and it’s still her favorite toy.

For the biting - he’s probably never been taught how to mouth rather than bite down and doesn’t realize what he’s doing. The trainer should be able to help with that.

u/AddChickpeas · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

My dogs favorite are her flirt pole and "Find it". You can also ask for some more tips on /r/Dogtraining

u/AngelicNerd · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

I absolutely second the flirt pole if you can get your backyard fenced in. Hell, I use it in my house for Charlie (though he's only 8 lbs and I have a decent sized living room.) I also take him in the backyard with a flirt pole and long line attached to his harness. You might look into those too. Long line and Flirt Pole

u/HelloPanda22 · 2 pointsr/germanshepherds

Flirt poles are god send especially on a rainy day. Dogs will chase that thing until they're ready to pass out. May want to get the "off" command down before getting the flirt pole just so it's not so annoying getting the dog to let it go. Flirt poles don't hold up as well as I would like.

I have always bought my dogs this one

u/rosieramblings · 2 pointsr/puppy101

I have an 8 month Yorkie is pretty high energy but not as a high as a husky mix. First thing I’d suggest is mental stimulation games. Our trainer in class last week taught us a very simple one where you can use Amazon box and put them down and place treats inside. It teaches them to sniff them out. We also gave our boy a treat puzzle ball, which has been a GOD. SEND.

However, the best thing for physical exercise to wear them out is this Tail Tease toy. We can’t use it with our boy right now (just got fixed 3 days ago) but, last weekend when it was stupid hot outside and we couldn’t do longer walks, this thing wore his butt out within 10 minutes. I can’t recommend it enough.

u/fa105934 · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

I switched from normal bowl-feeding to [this food dispenser toy] ( and my dog LOVES it. It's hilarious to watch him knock it around and he just about does cartwheels at meal times.

Is it possible to start taking your pups for walks to tire them out? Or teaching fetch to tire them out quicker in the backyard, or tug of war?

I've also been thinking about getting a [flirt pole] ( as my dog got to play with one at our training class this weekend and about crapped his pants (he really liked it). I think the trick is to figure out what activity your dogs likes best – chewing? squeaky stuff? chasing? digging? nosework? and then finding more focused activites related to that. Good luck!

u/matrawr · 2 pointsr/WiggleButts

my mini wigglebutt has the same problem. He likes to be chased and chase things but doesn't like to return the ball. He thinks it is funner to drop the ball wait there and make me try and go get it and then he will pick it up and run. He gets nippy so its hard to play with him because he gets so amped up. i got him a tethertug that he will play with. I get him different squeaker toys to put on the end and he will latch onto it which is good. Although the toy is meant to be able to play by himself he does not like that. So I stay on the other end and get him amped up and swing it at him which he likes. He wont nip at me cause he will go after the toy and i don't have to go after every toy because it is in the ground. He will get tired pretty quickly which is nice. If you don't want to hammer a metal stake in the ground, I also have a flirt pole. its like the same thing as the tether tug but instead of it being in the ground you hold it and fly it around and my wigglebutt will hold on and likes to be dragged. something like this. I would recommend getting a flirt pole first to see if she likes the idea of having a toy on a pole. Hope this helps. it certainly has helped me not get nipped at, herded, or pull my shoulder out from playing with him.

u/googoogoojoob · 2 pointsr/dogs

Training is the main thing, not only because you can teach a dog to settle or stay, also because the concentration of training is exhausting for a dog.

You can also tire a dog quickly by playing with a flirt pole.

u/NonsensicalSteph · 1 pointr/dogs

After reading your other comments it seems to me that your pup needs more exercise. Having herding breeds myself, this is something I have to make sure to do if I don't want a wound-up and destructive pup on my hands.

If you have a yard and you're not in the mood to go for a walk, I would recommend getting a Flirt Pole for him and tiring him out that way. A tired dog is a happy dog and a tired dog doesn't cause problems.

Be advised, that Flirt Pole I linked is strong enough for my 25 pounder but neither toy survived her wrath. The one made by Squishy Face Studio is higher quality and the toy holds up fantastically. So far the only issue we've encountered is the toy gets a bit dirty but that's nothing that can't be easily solved.

Also try giving him some frozen kongs when you leave or treat dispensing toys filled with his food rations so he will have something to keep himself busy while you're not home.

u/m3th4n3 · 1 pointr/puppy101

Update: here’s a link to the flirt pole I have. I posted a link to the snuffle mat in another response in case you’re interested. Good luck with you pup!

u/MercyKees · 1 pointr/dogs

I got one of these to work my dogs when they need it. Only had it since Friday but they love it.

Kyjen Tail Teaser with Refill

u/ramzafl · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

Yeah, don't think your suppose to use the laser pointer a lot. They need to be actually able to catch the thing occasionally otherwise it is really frustrating for them. :(

Learned this in puppy class a few months after we got our pup. They recommended this:

u/espike845 · 1 pointr/BelgianMalinois

I believe I used this one:

The included squeaky toys definitely don't last, but you can just tie your leather rag on when you get that.

u/SpazMjr · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

You might try something like this chase toy, seemed to really give my puppy a target to aim all his 'zoomies' at.

u/babybeanss · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

This saved my life when I got sick. ( Here is the one I bought: ) Could play with my new puppy more or less from the couch, and I used an app called Wag! that offered cheap walks and felt comfortable when meeting the walkers.

u/dbfish · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

Flirt pole! A tired dog is a happy dog. Also, use all that space for training/tricks! Mental exercise is just as important.

We use this (our dogs know "drop it" so they don't pull/destroy the toy when they catch it too much), but you may need a sturdier version - broom handle, rope, duct tape etc.