Reddit Reddit reviews Patterns of Fashion 3: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women C. 1560-1620

We found 4 Reddit comments about Patterns of Fashion 3: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women C. 1560-1620. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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4 Reddit comments about Patterns of Fashion 3: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women C. 1560-1620:

u/AFK_MIA · 10 pointsr/HistoricalCostuming

You will want to get a copy of Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion (https://www.amazon.com/Patterns-Fashion-Construction-Clothes-1560-1620/dp/0896760839/ref=pd_sbs_14_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0W87GRAAK069HWTTFWD3)

There are a series of 3 outfits in that book that belonged to some Swedish nobles (the Sture family) in the 1560's that will give you a fairly good pattern for the clothing that you want.

Those pants are called "pluderhosen" and are pretty tricky to construct. I'm someone with a decent amount of historical costuming experience and I'm just now starting the project to make these after building 4 pairs of simpler pants to work on building up the techniques. I'm fairly satisfied with my most recent version which is based on some of the more simple versions in the Meyer fechtbuch that lack panes, and that might be a good place for you to start as well.

These pants are quite the engineering project, so you'll have to carefully read Janet Arnold's notes and take care to make sure that you understand the correct techniques. There are a large number of gathers and these all must be hand-sewn or the garment will not work. Keep in mind that there is a form-fitting inner lining, an overly large lining layer that is gathered at the waist & leg cuff, and another somewhat fitted (in the crotch) outer layer that includes the panes.

Yes there is a codpiece. It's fairly substantial, but it gets hidden somewhat by the puffs of its inter-lining and it gets somewhat buried by the volume of fabric that surrounds it.

The length of the pluderhosen seems to vary between just above the knee and just below the knee. Longer seems to be more popular with younger, more flashy men and shorter seems to be the more conservative version for the period you're interested in.

Patterns of fashion also has a pattern for a shirts and doublets that should provide a similar fit to the ones seen here.

You may also want to pick up Matthew Gnagy's "The Modern Maker vol 1: Men's doublets" (https://www.amazon.com/Modern-Maker-Mens-Century-Doublets/dp/0692264841). The book describes all of the steps for constructing a doublet (they're more complicated than you might think), though the pattern provided by that book is Spanish and is from a few decades later than the Meyer Fechtbuch.

The two big details to keep in mind are 1) doublets stop at the natural waist (belly-button level) not your hips (which is where modern people usually wear their pants) and 2) the German doublets have a more squared waistline compared to English, Spanish, & French doublets of the era.

The "extra" piece of clothing over the doublet is a jerkin. In German, these get called a "ledergollar." They were frequently made of leather and slashed or pierced. There's a nifty one in Patterns of Fashion that you could use for a pattern; though the original was meant for a child.

The hats of the 1570's aren't the "pizza hat." Those are the really large hats from the earlier "landsknecht" era. By the 1570's the hats are smaller (like in picture #7 of your album), though a lot of woodcuts from this era show a different style called a "tall hat." The floppy hat that you linked (pic 7) is probably a variant of the flat cap. There are some flat cap patterns in Patterns of Fashion, though IIRC, those all require a bit of a gather, which is probably not quite how to make the one that you linked. Tall hats are kind of a cross between a bowler hat and a top hat. They're constructed using wool felt that is shaped over a hat block. You could also get away with a knit and fulled wool flat cap for this period.


u/Dietzgen17 · 4 pointsr/sewing

It's hard to say without knowing the fabric or the style. On jackets, the higher and more closer fitting the sleeve the more mobility there usually is. I would research historical patterns.

It probably will not be a quick fix. You will have to re-draft the armscye and the sleeve. Sometimes a gusset can help.

Here's a video. I only watched a minute. I don't know if it will help because the change to the sleeve is not for activewear. But the pattern maker specializes in costumes.

She mentions the series Patterns of Fashion.

This book has doublets.

Three hours is nothing, btw.

u/drowgirl · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'm in a super cheerful mood.

I'm at work, have finished my assignments for the week, and am piecing through my new copy of this.

If I didn't already have plans this evening, I would probably start on some of these doublets right away!

u/catnik · 1 pointr/fashionhistory

Don't know why the spam filter caught you. Should be fixed!

I own the Tortora book - it's a nice reference. I'm unfamiliar with the second. Are the pattern pieces on a scale-able grid? It sounds like I might need to get an addition for my hoard. I already love my Janet Arnolds, and period patterns can be a pain to drape from scratch.