Reddit Reddit reviews PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length

We found 25 Reddit comments about PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Plastic Sheets
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PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03
PEI is a strong, rigid plastic that withstands high temperatures and offers excellent electrical insulation over a wide range of temperaturesColor is opaque NaturalMeets ASTM D5205 PEI0113 specificationsNote: The Standard Cut Tolerance on the Width and Length is (+/-) 3/16”
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25 Reddit comments about PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length:

u/Falk3r · 12 pointsr/3Dprinting

Congrats, just got mine 2 months ago.

SeeMeCNC forums are awesome. Start reading every new post.

Best upgrade I've done: PEI Bed

~$30 in upgrades; all my prints stick and pop off with ease. Also, the underside of every part is glassy and smooth. So good.

Buy "feeler gages" to assist with leveling the bed.

My bed leveling process is kinda like this:

  • Set the Z=0 spot, should be where you feel friction when pulling a single, blank piece of printer paper between the nozzle and print bed.

  • Edit the radius of swing in the EEPROM settings per the instructions (I missed this the first time through).

  • Setup and run the tower calibration script.

  • Figure out what the gap is for the central point with the feeler gages; mine was between .006" and .007" (.006" fit, .007" didn't).

  • Now use those "Go" and "No-Go" gages to check the three tower points.

  • If you need to adjust all three towers in the same direction, change the EEPROM radius instead, 0.2 steps.

  • Every few tower calibration runs, re-calibrate the Z=0 point. It will shift as you move screws and change EEPROM settings.

    Let's see, what else. If you can spare the cash, I moved to Simplify3d for all my slicing needs ($100~$150 for the license). Love it. If you can't afford it, maybe you'll find a way.

    Also, get ready to do a bajillion calibration runs. I mean it, don't be in a rush.

    Find a nice 20mm box off thingiverse or whatever, and you're gonna want to print that repeatedly while you dial in your settings. Once that's set, move on to the hollow pyramid, or the 5mm stairs.

    I seriously printed at least 20 of each of these while I dialed in my settings:

  • Extrusion Multiplier
  • Retraction Settings
  • Speed
  • Infill, Outline Overlap
  • Printing temp
  • etcetcetc

    ASAP, move over to PLA. Prints so much nicer for me than ABS.

    Oh, before you go to PLA, make sure you print 3x of the layer fans housings (not just 1x) and order up 2 more of the "squirrel cage" fans (centrifugal fans) from SeeMeCNC. edit: I spliced the single pair of layer-fan wires into three right at the connectors, I didn't bother running extra wire for them.

    Oh, and one other big improvement I made was putting connectors in-line with the hot-end and for all the fans. This way, if I have to replace a fan or upgrade the hot-end I don't have to cut and splice wires, I can just pop it off and connectorize another new one. Here are the connectors I used:

  • Hot end, high-current lines
  • Crimp tool
  • 1 2 3 4 for the lower-current fan lines and thermistor lines.

    That was probably too much info -- just take your time and try not to get frustrated while you get things all set up. It is not a plug-'n-play object, it requires care and feeding.

    ... oh, and have fun! Whatcha gonna print?
u/Kariko83 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

DiiCooler, Z braces, thumbscrews for bed leveling, and the melzi temp fix are all common mods that I can recommend. You could also get the all Metal Hot end from Micro Swiss but I have not done this myself.

As for supplies, I would recommend getting a sheet of PEI and some 3M adhesive to stick it to the print bed. PEI is a great, low maintenance print surface that prints stick to very well even without any form of fixative to improve bed adhesion. If you don't go that route I would say get some buildtak to put on the print bed with washable gluestick depending on the filament you use. Basically you don't want to be printing directly on to the bed as there is a hole where the thermistor comes through.

Other than that, just get extra filament and have fun with it.

u/pyr0ball · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I used a combination of [magnetic sheets with adhesive] ( and a PEI sheet. Works like a charm

edit: here's some pics of when I was putting it together:

u/ThompsonBoy · 3 pointsr/CR10

Amazon has them for $22. Match with one of these to attach it.

The actual product doesn't have that weird edge, it's just a flat sheet.

u/bwyer · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I have several upgrades in the queue for this weekend once my M3 hardware kit comes in:

u/Dycus · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

While I've never had success with a Rep2X and PLA (except for one roll this one time), it sounds like you've got it extruding fairly well at this point.

So your current difficulty is getting the print to stay stuck to the bed? I'd recommend getting a sheet of PEI (I use 0.03" thickness) like this:
Then cut it to size and stick it to your print bed with this:

I've had awesome success with PEI and PLA. It sticks great until it cools down, then it comes off easily. Print with the bed at 50C.

u/throwaway_for_keeps · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

This was the one I got, and I also got these adhesive pads to hold it to the bed. Right now the PEI is just clipped on since I wasn't sure how well it would work, but I'm planning to throw the adhesive sheet on and make it a little more permanent this weekend.

u/BlueFalchion · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

attach to glass or aluminum plate with

i used 2" tape i'd suggest 3" or so -- it doesn't unroll clean, teh adhesive sticks

or buy a thick sheet of pei. and just use that. (but thats damn expensive)

u/esseff3d · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I added a heated bed to my Simple Metal, and now everything is pancake flat. It has been such a great improvement over struggling with the blue tape. I also put a sheet of PEI on the bed too. Now all I do between prints is wipe off the bed with rubbing alcohol. Everything sticks like glue while the bed is hot, and pops off when it cools down.

u/TURBO2529 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

[PEI for $17] ( this will last you for a long time (Through many many prints) if you are careful with it.

[Transfer tape for sticking PEI to buildplate] (

[Here is a site with more information] (

Edit: For immediate printing buy a cut sheet of glass from the glass or hardware store, then spray 2 layers of [Aqua net extra strength super hold unscented] ( it must be this brand and product. Or you could match ingredients. This method will work for fairly large prints but is not as good as PEI. After each print just spray another coat of hairspray.

u/sbussinger · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

In used this PEI sheet:

And this adhesive:

Try to get the adhesive down as smoothly and evenly as possible. No overlaps or gaps if possible. I scored and snapped the PEI to match the build plate, then applied the tape to the PEI, then applied that to the bed.

u/theRIAA · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I bought the same thing for my v1:
12"x12" 0.03" PEI
(6) 12x12" 3M Adhesive Transfer Tape:

At the time there were no practical cheaper/smaller options (although the extra 3M adhesive does come in handy).

... I scored/snapped the sheet into 4 pieces, and I'm still on the first PEI sheet after like 300 hours. It still looks flawless. I only use sharp scraper blades or no tools to remove parts. If you're printing something crazy in a cold room, you can add hairspray, but for the most part, PEI has perfect adhesion on it's own.

I definitely recommend the thicker PEI (0.03"+), as it makes the MPSM bed much more rigid. I don't have to bend the aluminum bed "flat again" anymore. I dont worry about bending the bed when ripping parts off the bed, even with super high adhesion.

Clean it with alcohol, not sandpaper.

u/aalkinsdesign · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

It's a specific material that has properties allowing most fdm materials to stick very well too (PETG too well at times). There is a ton of information in forums on that bed surface.

You usually buy a sheet about 30 thou (0.03") thick and stick straight to the aluminium heatbed or on to the glass bed with 3M double sided.

I bought this one: PEI
But here are tons of suppliers around depending where you are located.

u/therealpdrake · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

that's what i ordered for my printer. i have the same one, but i use simplify3D. totally worth the money.

u/ClearAirTurbulence3D · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Do you have any left over bits you can check for a film? Maybe the film was removed when the adhesive was applied, but it still seems odd that PET isn't sticking.

This is the PEI I bought

u/3dstuff · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/TeeJS · 1 pointr/CR10

Another option is using a PEI sheet ( ). I personally use a mirror and PEI. Nice flat surface with great hold. If you don't have an IKEA near you, Home Depot has a 12 pack of mirrors for $20.

u/archindividual · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

Get a sheet of PEI and never look back. Sorry. Was a lot vague.

PEI sheet, + 3M glue sheet = never mess with your bed again.



u/Trochlea · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Just in case you change your mind it has been amazing for me

u/jsm11482 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I recently stopped using blue tape and switched to PEI sheets on glass. I'll never go back. I think this would be a good thing for you to try, the PEI sheet releases pretty easily once cool.

PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length

TapeCase 12" squares (pack of 6), Converted from 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape

u/dmgdispenser · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
Do note I am using a rostock, but psi will work on all regardless, it's also acetone resistant, so you could clean really easily

u/Oh_Herro_ · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Also known as Ultem, it can be purchased here from CSHyde. There are several options there for size and thickness. The bonus is that these sheets come with adhesive already laminated to the sheet. I believe you can also get custom sizes, although larger sheets are no problem to cut to size.

Alternatively (and probably more common), you can purchase PEI sheets here on Amazon. The recommended adhesive (transfer tape) is here, and there may be other sizes for both available on Amazon as well as wBay.

The whole idea on using PEI as a print surface is that you get good print adhesion with most common print materials. Using a heated bed with PEI works great for getting prints to stick while warm, and also pop off of the print bed fairly easily as the bed cools.

I went with the stuff from CSHyde for convenience, but I think most users here are going with the Amazon stuff (they have thicker sheets which many users prefer as it can last longer before needing replacement).