Reddit Reddit reviews Perfect Plastic Putty, 40ml

We found 10 Reddit comments about Perfect Plastic Putty, 40ml. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Paint, Wall Treatments & Supplies
Tools & Home Improvement
Putty Knives
Household Painting Supplies & Tools
Perfect Plastic Putty, 40ml
Dries quickly without cracks to an ultra smooth finishFills deep cavities & takes paint easilyVery little odor
Check price on Amazon

10 Reddit comments about Perfect Plastic Putty, 40ml:

u/sinefine · 10 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've done most of the smoothing techniques.

XTC-3D does not work on larger flat surfaces. It only makes flat surfaces wobbly uneven. It works great if you have a lot of curves. Don't expect to sand this easily. It's a pain in the ass to hand-sand with sandpaper. If you have a file, it works much better. You don't have to wait the entire day. It sets non-sticky hard in about 6 hours. Another downside of XTC is that you have limited working time. It starts to harden after 20 minutes and its hard to spread even after that.

The best method is to spray everything with filler primer spray can. Sand it light with 80 ~ 100 grit sandpaper. Anything higher is harder to sand.

Then use this to fill gaps/uneven places: https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK

Sand with 200 grit paper. Repeat if you still have uneven places. Finish everything with 800 grit paper. It will come out so smooth you want to rub your face against it.

u/FlyingSMonster · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

This was recommended to me a little while ago, Perfect Plastic putty.

Best filler I've ever used, it goes on, however you want it, then you just let it dry for a few minutes to an hour or so, then you can use a damp cloth or a damp cotton swab and wipe down the excess since it cleans up with water. It's very similar to milliput, but it seems finer to be and its easier to use since it's just a paste, not two solids you have to mix.

I find this type of putty is the absolute best kind, because it requires no sanding at all to clean up, meaning you won't destroy panel lines or any raised details.

u/windupmonkeys · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

At this point there's not that much I would do unless you feel like repainting it, and you already decaled it. Unless you have spares, it's not worthwhile. Just learn from it.


I might be wrong, but are you from the UK? A manufacturer in your country makes a nice putty, called Perfect Plastic Putty, by Deluxe Materials. I just recently bought some of theirs and it works quite nicely. While wet, it can be cleaned with water, and is a good filler.

PVA can be used as a filler in small quantities; it might work in this case.

In the future though, you should putty these things and test-fit before you paint, so you can solve the problems before it starts.

Other fillers that I have used include Squadron White Putty, which you can smooth out with nail polish remover (which must contain acetone), tamiya filler, which you have to sand, and Mr. Surfacer 500, which is more like thick primer. (It wouldn't work for what you're trying to do).

In this case, if you had to do something, I'd use white glue and slowly build up the seam. However, white glue doesn't sand well either, so you're unlikely to get it to blend without sanding it, destroying the finish, and removing the decals.

In the future, fill gaps prior to painting. It's easier and shows you what you need to work on.

And when i say "excess" plastic, that's not always flash or residue from the molding process, or the attachment points on the sprues. Sometimes, kit parts are too thick or something, and I shave the inside of the parts so that it will mate with the part on the model better.

The putty I mentioned is here:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Deluxe-Materials-Perfect-Plastic-Putty/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394322259&sr=8-1&keywords=perfect+plastic+putty

Also, with putties, you almost always have to either clean up the seam with some kind of solvent (e.g. nail polish remover for Squadron White, or alcohol for Mr. Surfacer), or sand it to fit, unless you are so good at applying putty that you get exactly what you need exactly where you need it. I usually have to sand my stuff. To do that, cheap wet and dry sandpaper from the hardware store will do. Get one lower grit one, and a medium grit sheet, and then the finest one you can get. (The grits I use respectively are 320, 600, and 1500; I would get higher but that's what the store sells, and it costs less than a dollar per sheet). So putty is not a magic solution, you need to wet sand it afterwards to remove the excess. On older model kits with raised lines, this will obliterate the detail; the only way around this (in my experience I'm sure others have something else to say) is to tape off the areas with raised detail, and then carefully sand in the area that you don't have masked.

Also, thick superglue is also used for filling gaps, but it will craze clear parts, so don't use that here. (Recall episodes of CSI where they get the fingerprints from the drinking glass or clear object with some superglue in gaseous form? That's the same process that clouds the clear styrene if you just superglue on it.



u/PacManDreaming · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

It's just usually called "green putty". There are several different brands. GW carries a two part putty, but it's the same as other brands, but way more expensive.

This is a two part that's really good. You can also use it to mold and sculpt parts, like purity seals and the like.

This plastic putty has a nozzle so you can control the bead.

Tamiya and Squadron both make white/green putty that's good for filling small gaps and cracks.

u/rob12770 · 2 pointsr/ender3

absolutely, it is impressive..i use this putty, i find it very good.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0076LAVFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
glad you took my comment the right way :O)

u/Hexteque · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Its an endearing model because every modeler has one like it. Pretty good job for being a first kit!

As for airbrushes... I started with the super cheap Master brand airbrush. Later on I got a Japanese made Iwata. I can say that buying the Master airbrush + compressor is the perfect starter. This is a good example: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Performance-Airbrushing-Dual-Action-Airbrush/dp/B0017640RK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1482902837&sr=8-7&keywords=airbrush+compressor+tank

You get an airbrush that will be a perfect starter and a good compressor that will last you into your next step up airbrush.

I recommend staying with acrylic paints-- just easier to work with.

For putty, to fill seams with, I also recommend Perfect Putty. It's water based so it's easy to clean up and work with. You put some on a tray and use a toothpick to apply to a gap or seam, then wipe excess off with brush or finger. After it dries you can use sandpaper or a wet cottonswab to remove excess.

https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482902965&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+putty

What is your next kit?

u/montybug · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Perfect Plastic Putty made by DELUXE MATERIALS

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076LAVFK

u/streamweasel · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I was just turned on to Perfect Plastic Putty https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076LAVFK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1BKVSJG1RNAQO
Sounds like exactly what you need.

u/NotNeverSo · 1 pointr/ender5plus

All prints are straight off the print bed. I hate sanding so I've worked really hard to get the printer dialed in. And when the printer isn't as dialed in as I'd like, I have found a wonderful putty that will fill gaps, holes and even join two parts of a print together ... it's Perfect Plastic Putty ( https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-BD44-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1DRCN7LC5IRMS&keywords=perfect+putty&qid=1573437609&sprefix=perfect+putty%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-2 ). It's great stuff! Unfortunately I don't get a share of the profits but I'm impressed with it enough to recommend it anyway!