Reddit reviews Performance Rock Climbing

Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard cover this in Performance Rock Climbing (chapters Flexibility and Flexibility Training).

The chapters are included in the Amazon preview here: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Rock-Climbing-Dale-Goddard/dp/0811722198/

(It's quite an old book, so I'm not sure if there are new insights already)

Great book: "Performance Rock Climbing" by Dale Goddard & Udo Neumann

"Handbook for experienced climbers covers all the physical and psychological aspects of climbing training."

Bonus: Udo Neumann Interview Excerpt. A really nice guy.

Performance Rock Climbing by Dale Goddard and Udo Neumann is another great reference for improving your mental game.

Here's the thing: if you are bouldering at or near your limit, those thoughts telling you that you can't do it--and by "do it" I mean send the problem clean from start to finish--those thoughts are usually right. Bouldering is hard. So, for me, it's less about switching off negative chatter and more about developing a positive response to failure. Because if you challenge yourself in bouldering, you're going to be failing. A lot.

One thing that's helped me is learning to appreciate the process of unlocking even just a single move on a hard boulder. Try different beta. Feel out all the micro-adjustments you can make that change the movement. Celebrate each little improvement along the way, from getting closer to doing one move, to doing that move, to doing multiple moves in isolation, to linking multiple moves into a sequence, and eventually to doing the entire problem. That way you build up a habit of giving yourself positive feedback throughout the entire process of working a hard problem rather than only at the very end when you finally send it.

For training purposes, Performance Rock Climbing. It's old but certainly not outdated. Really well-written and easy to understand.

edit: typos

I generally buy a 5 pack at Climb Nashville, rather than the membership - since I have a hard time committing to regularity. I don't have my grip endurance built up, so normally I can't hold onto the wall after more than half an hour. I'll generally try to tie in some cardio, a class, or some lower body stuff so I feel like I get my time and money's worth.

What I love most about climbing is the strategic part to it. Sure you can power up a wall, but it takes strategy and finesse to be able to stretch your endurance.

Performance Rock Climbing is a great book I read in high-school when I started climbing. It really helped me work on technique.

Both East and West have great routes from 'just more challenging than a ladder', to 'I don't think a nickel counts as a foothold'. They're all marked, so its easy to realistically challenge yourself.