Reddit Reddit reviews Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml

We found 15 Reddit comments about Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Automotive
Oils & Fluids
Body Repair & Restoration Chemicals
Body Repair & Restoration Adhesives
Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml
Locks and seals while preventing parts loosening due to vibrationProtects threads from corrosionIdeal for all nut and bolt applications 1/4" to 3/4" (6mm to 20mm)Removable with hand tools for easy disassemblySuggested Applications: valve cover bolts, water pump bolts, oil pan bolts, drive shaft bolts, rocker arm adjustment nuts, carburetor studs
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15 Reddit comments about Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml:

u/SticklessControllers · 6 pointsr/fightsticks

I’d also suggest getting some blue threadlocker . This stuff is great and really stops things from coming undone unless intentionally unscrewed. Make sure to avoid red threadlocker, as it’s way too good. The red stuff pretty much ensures that once it’s screwed on it will never come off. The blue is less permanent. Just apply a little bit to the threading and you’re good to go!

u/OmniaMors · 6 pointsr/Firearms

time to trouble shoot!

did the metal bend? use a stiffer metal like steel if you used aluminum.

did the screws come loose? threads are naturally loose to allow for them to be screwed in, use a thread filler

did the screws actually bend? your shear stress is too high, increase the area the force is distributed over by using more screws.

Did any metal get scraped off at any point? Same idea as above, look to increase the surface area between any surfaces where material was used.

we can rebuilt it! WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY.

u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/rollerderby

Seconded. I had the same problem with my Big Bloc toe stops. Take the toe stop all the out and put a drop of blue loctite (buy at any home/hardware store, or http://amzn.com/B0002UEMZ2) on the stem of the toe stop and on the threads inside the skate. Also, which tool are you using to tighten the nut? The tool that comes with the R3's is terrible! I use a short 15/16 wrench that I bought online. (http://amzn.com/B00BI2D0H4)

u/pjor1 · 4 pointsr/Cartalk

https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24200-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0002UEMZ2?sa-no-redirect=1

It says medium strength, "for when disassembly is common"

So I was doin it right then

u/JutNob · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

If you are using nuts and bolts, I'd recommend Threadlocker Blue (It's available at auto and hardware stores too) it's common name is Permatex. It's a liquid silicone that you coat the threads of the screw with, right before put the nuts on to secure the plate. It fills the the threads, dries quickly, and prevents loosening from vibration.

Good luck.

u/ohwowgee · 2 pointsr/1022

Small gun related tip.

Loctite is your BEST friend. Anything that unscrews, or loosens with a thread on it, should get a small dab. Purple is lighter than Blue (Red is the strongest). If you're worried about the strength of the screw head, use Purple.

http://amzn.com/B0002UEMZ2 \ http://amzn.com/B0002KKTT0

Use screwdrivers that are "hollow ground". Meaning, for a flat bit, they should not be shaped like normal screwdrivers. A normal screwdriver actually usually looks more like a wedge than an straight block being inserted into the screw head. Here's a nice picture:

http://makezine.com/review/tool-review-garrett-wade-gunsmithing-screwdrivers/

You don't have to run out and buy fancy screwdrivers. Grab a metal file, and carefully file the sides of a cheap bit so it is more square. Keeps your screws pretty.

Last bit of advice, Dremels work really REALLY quick. Be careful!

You can put a trigger stop yourself if you'd like, that will reduce the overtravel. Check this out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgBprD635HM

Have fun, stay safe!

u/blujeh · 2 pointsr/applehelp

I would take the bottom cover off and blow the dust out of the two fans. I have to do this once every 6 months or so because of pet hair. Even if the vents are exposed you may have dust or hair caught in the back of the vents on the inside. Make sure you get some of this to put on the screws because once you take them off they seem to wiggle loose over time.

u/shifty21 · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

The monoprice stands are great. I bought 2 dual screen mounts to put on my lab's work bench. I got ones with the articulationg arm. The one that ovaltineEuroFormula will work for what you want.

Pro Tip: do yourself a favor and get a bunch of washer, LocTite and these type of thumb screws

I makes for taking on and off monitor tool less. The washers help spread the weight of the monitors. And the LocTite helps keep the bolts in. I do performance automotive work on the side as a hobby and I use that stuff on everything.

I didn't do any of that when I first did the install and regretted it once we started moving the articulating arm around and the bolts started to loosen a bit. Replaced everything from above and no problems for over a year and a half of use/abuse.

u/Coreycry · 2 pointsr/fpvracing

Frame: Realacc x210 V+
I have the non-V+ but the size isn't easy to build with, it required to mount the PDB flat, not on stand-offs.
4mm is pretty strong, a good choice for starting.

FPV cam: there are no bad choices, only preferences (PAL vs NTSC / CMOS vs CCD / IR block vs IR sensitive), this Swift will do fine.

Motors: Racerstar 2205 2300KV
2300KV gives you more torque, thus more compatibility with any propellers you want to try, see props section.
You'll choose 2600KV when/if you feel the need to, after more experience flying.

ESC: Racerstar RS30A V2 Blheli_S
Blheli_S is mandatory if building new: compatible with Multishot and Dshot in some extent, start with Multishot though.
20A would do fine I'm sure, but I'll choose 30A because Chinese-numbers and price difference.

PDB: Matek-clone with 5V/12V/Current Sensor
It's so cheap and do the job, integrated current sensor, XT-60 connector at the back.
Buy this XT-60 if mounting battery on the side.

FC: Omnibus F3 clone
OSD is integrated, and works well with the PDB above to read Current Sensor. This Youtube playlist is also nice when starting

Antenna: Anything really, small or long, you'll break them a lot so don't go too expensive right now.
Bear ind mind:
-first fly with this, it still works at fair-enough range and very durable.
-buy the same "type" of antennas: RHCP with RHCP, LHCP with LHCP. Don't mix them and label them if needed!
-5.8GHz for the video, 2.4GHz for your radio/remote.
-look at your video transmitter (Vtx) connector : RP-SMA/SMA-male/female
-buy multiple adapters, you never know when you'll need them.

Props: Science now! Propellers go according to your motors (torque) and also the battery (3S vs 4S), that's for the future, obviously they all fly (and break) at the end.
KingKong 5040 bi-blade are known to be cheap, good and durable.
-Tri-blades are heavier than Bi-blades, 2300KV motors can even bear Quad-blades.
-Bi-blades generally allow more room for unballanced propellers.
Need balancing your props?

Charger: Genuine Imax B3 = need to buy a power supply.
Fake Imax B3 = it works fine, no need to buy power supply.

Battery: There is debate to whether start 3S vs 4S, you could buy 4S now and be gentle on the throtlle.. but do you trust yourself?
I'd start with two 3S until I can do powerloops with confidence, and that's not today.
Get cheap at roughly $30 each, and around 1500mAh to get the most flight time/experience, forget lightweight ultra expensive 100C fake-rating 900mAh like you were racing for $2,000 championship.

Video Transmitter: preferably small & power adjustable, 25mW when flying with others and 200mW when flying alone.
DO NOT turn on 600mW it will simply burn unless you fly very fast all the time, when cold..
Also never power the copter without an antenna, Vtx will also cook.

Goggles: check if it accepts both PAL and NTSC, depending your camera.

Radio receiver: depends on your radio transmitter/remote obviously, I'd suggest going FrSky if you're naked. Check the difference between Mode1 & Mode2 before buying, Google will help.
No money and geek: Devo7e + FrSky/small toys multi-module, can control FrSky & TinyWhoop-like toys but requires some good knowledge on hacking/soldering/configuration.
No money and newbie: Turnigy Evolution is having some hype recently, but does not work with FrSky receivers. You probably need to open this link twice for it to work btw.

EDIT:
M5 size nylocks cuz the aluminum stock ones suck.
Blue Loctite or similar cuz vibrations will loosen the screws.
M3 screws cuz you never have the right size.
M3 nylon stand-offs cuz they break in crashes, you can get a pack of different sizes too.
75W soldering iron and it's the minimum, in this hobby you'll prolly want a station (you'll find good-enough ones at $60 on Amazon)

u/NoSatellite · 2 pointsr/applehelp

Protip- if you do choose to remove the cover, put some blue thread locker on the screws before you replace them.

u/potussanta · 2 pointsr/Watches

Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nJVzDbYM5A4DS

I’ve had no problem using this from mountain bike parts to pens. It’s not the original loctite brand but should do the job!

u/Nibroc99 · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Definitely do the shocks and brakes yourself! You'll save yourself nearly a thousand dollars and they really aren't even that hard to do with common hand tools.

How to replace brake pads and rotors

How to replace shock absorbers

How to replace struts (if this is what your car has rather than separate shocks and springs)

You really shouldn't need a full brake system flush for a car that's this new, but if you really want to...

The alignment will need to be done by a professional though, but all the other stuff can be done yourself for probably $150-200. You'll learn a ton about how your car works and how to fix it, and you'll probably get a lot of supplies that you didn't know you needed, like silicone paste lubricant for the brake guide pins, copper anti-sieze, and thread locker, all supplies that can be used for many, many different things, not just this one brake job!

I hope this all is helpful. I've been doing this stuff at home for many years so feel free to reach out if you need any help at all.

u/teholbugg · 1 pointr/frugalmalefashion

i don't know if this would solve it, or is okay to use on glasses/plastic, but my first thought was to try this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24200-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0002UEMZ2

u/Thanks_for_that_too · 1 pointr/Trucks

Thanks!

This: Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KNelzbNETSX7V

Versus this: Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMelzb052MTNF

Which do you recommend?