Reddit Reddit reviews Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure

We found 20 Reddit comments about Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Car Audio & Video
Electronics
Car Electronics
Car Audio Subwoofers
Car Subwoofers
Car & Vehicle Electronics
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure
Music Power (Nominal): 1,200 W (400 W) Frequency Response: 20 Hz to 125 Hz, Sensitivity (1 W/1 m): 93 dB, Impedance: Single 4Ω Tight bass from a shallow compact design, Reinforced MICA injection-molded resin preloaded subwoofer cone
Check price on Amazon

20 Reddit comments about Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure:

u/Indy1204 · 5 pointsr/f150

I put one of these under the back seat along with a small amp. Made a night and day difference.

https://www.amazon.ca/PIONEER-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC

u/IcePhreak · 5 pointsr/fordranger

On Amazon pioneer makes a shallow 10 inch. I had one for my ranger worked great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_CPh7BbNBAKVGE

u/oshout · 3 pointsr/fordfusion

This page is showing up on google results now :] Thanks for your detailed response!

Here are some answers I've found:

  1. L-Drive puts on full-regen when your foot isn't on the gas. If the HV battery is full, it uses the engine in air-compression mode to achieve a similar engine break. This is by far the fastest way to charge your vehicle, though not the most efficient. If you put it in L and tap the breaks at all, it reduces your breaking efficiency, so from this I'm pretty sure regenerative breaks are the electric motor regening. edit; this is a good way to learn to judge the regen-breaks capability. I think it's in maximum, electric (regen) deceleration in L, when your foot is off the pedal.

  2. The charging port allows for a maximum of 16a, 3.3kwh - however the battery can accept a charge of 145a and ..1305kwh?

  3. There are a distinct set of 'driver' controls and options in the left cluster menu - personalizing keys, auto unlocking and more are all available here.

  4. My car does not have front radar :(

  5. The Personal Key I mentioned which supposedly increased driving efficiency is for the MyFord Mobile app. It allows you to have two drivers which gain their own, unique scores.

  6. I'm hoping that I can pull apart the center console enough to insert the ground effects I want - I also want to tie into the DC jack on the under side of the console, so my console isn't packed.

  7. Side damage is bound to happen, if I can just accept that and keep it confined to the lower side skirting, I'll be golden. The side skirting does replace very readily - you can order the year and color from ford for $125 per side.

  8. All available tax credits are tracked by the government, here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/laws/ELEC

    --

  9. Subwoofers: On the SE package, you can see where the sub on the TIT package would be. Aftermarket, it looks like my choices are an 8" or 10" "low profile" or "slim" box - ideally self-powered. An Amp will fit on top of the HVB.
    Subs will not fit in the 6x9 punchouts in the package deck. If I want a perfect fit sub, I need to make the housing myself. The Slimline by pioneer looks like it would fit well: Here (this is the 10", they make an 8" which is approximately the size of the speaker.

  10. Warranty - Since I bought my car out of state, I'm going to take it to the dealership ahead of schedule and have it given a once-over. I only have a few thousand more miles under factory warrant and if the warranty works the way I think it does, the dealership would be down to make as much money as possible, finding any problems they can. I want updates to everything (the manual says to contact ford if the dealership won't apply courtesy updates). In this way I can get my oil changed and reset the intelligent life counter as well, gain some peace of mind and get the light ring fixed (does that break often?)
u/resykle · 3 pointsr/realdubstep

in that case since you have a small car I'd suggest a shallow 10", something along these lines would probably work well, although I'd get a regular box.

With subs the box is key so a bigger box would give you more bass but if space is an issue then I think this would be ok

Either way, any subwoofer will make a huge difference! Cannot recommend crutchfield enough either, they have a ton of guides as well if you want to install it yourself, which isn't that difficult - just takes a while.

u/stapleton87 · 3 pointsr/FiestaST

Mannn, you're gonna send me down a rabbit hole aren't you. That sounds very interesting. As an alternative I found this custom build: https://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/509-Another-Sub-Installation/page2

And I've had this in my Amazon wish list forever as something that should fit under the load floor without removing the spare: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC

u/Mustache_Machismo · 3 pointsr/mazda

I’d look into upgrading the front speakers and giving them more power. You could get a four channel amplifier and power a set of component speakers up front and bridge the rear channels of the amplifier to run a 10” subwoofer (rear door speakers would run off of the factory radio). Pioneer makes a 10” pre-loaded down-firing shallow subwoofer enclosure that doesn’t take up a ton of space and you can easily load things on top of it.

Not sure what your budget or car audio installation skills are, but here’s an example of what I’d do with your CX-5 for under $500:

Component Speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_091ISS165/Focal-Integration-ISS-165.html?tp=106

4-Channel Amplifier:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_130GMD8604/Pioneer-GM-D8604.html?tp=35782

Subwoofer:
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qy-EAb0AA96Y7

u/SparXFTW · 3 pointsr/FiestaST

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

u/xxYYZxx · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Not sure about LOC advice, seems like a splitter could work.

What size sub is "small" for you and is shape/depth an issue?

If you're looking into a powered sub I'd suggest building something like this for ~ $100 & getting a small amp for maybe another $100 + connection gear. This is just an example, but there are plenty of prefab boxes in the $25-50 range and plenty of subs in the $30-80 range which will stomp all over a plastic mini powered sub and don't need a big sub amp.

If you need a really small sub I'd recommend a Pioneer 10" or 12" prefab like these with a small (~300 - 500w) sub amp.

u/phantomprophet · 1 pointr/Wrangler

If space is an issue you should look at the 10 inch pioneer shallow mounted sub.
You can get it with a box for a reasonable price and it will take a good amount of power.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JQTU3QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485881674&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=TSSWX2502

u/Bondjoy · 1 pointr/CarAV

Jbl is always one of the top review for underseat subwoofer. What about this one, well its not really an underseat: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC

u/idred · 1 pointr/CarAV

Trying to understand all the differences. Would this sub work?

I'm assuming I'll use 2 out of 4 channels to power it.

u/TD350 · 1 pointr/foxmustang

I replaced all the speakers in mine and it was seriously lacking bass until I put in a shallow sub. Got this sub and an amp off Craigslist. Did the trick. Gotta go for a shallow mount sub. Trunk space is limited for one in a hatch.

u/omniscence · 1 pointr/audiophile

Limited budget. Would it be recommended to go with the JBL speakers in the cheap proposed systems or with the Micca ones plus a ~$100 subwoofer (found https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9723&AID=11051853&PID=7112509&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11051853&utm_term=Skimlinks-2617611 and https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502901197&sr=1-3&keywords=slim+subwoofer
were recommended)
For some background, they are for a fairly small bedroom and I have diverse music tastes but am particularly into hip-hop and electronic music. Specifically, bass heavy music so I want those low frequencies coming in pretty strong/clear. Thanks for any advice!

u/hfmutlu · 1 pointr/CarAV

Do you have a link?

Edit:

Remembered this was something we looked at:

Pioneer TSSWX2502 10-Inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure Sub Woofer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9x1szbVC9WQR9

We decided against this as it would be a snug fit & the boss has "more power". Also I told him to get something with 2ohm resistance vs 4 if he's only getting one sub and it will be compact.

u/fr0stie · 1 pointr/cars

I'm looking at a 2014 Mazda 6 Sport which has this dash. Looking to use this Pioneer head unit with this Metra dash kit. There's adapters so that I can keep the factory usb port and steering wheel controls. I'll probably spend the extra money buying the head unit from crutchfield for their customer support in case I need it. For speakers, I'm thinking Infinity Kappa's. I might fiberglass some tweeter pods for the sails, but if I'm feeling lazy, I'll just surface mount them to the stock sails. Gonna ignore the dash corners entirely (pretty bad speaker placement really, you can make it work with a dsp, but I don't want to spend that much....yet). I might go for a 10 inch sub in a sealed enclosure and am thinking about this pre-made box, but I also have access to a wood shop, so I might build my own sub enclosure. I haven't decided on amps on yet, but Rockford has a promotion where you buy a dual amp wiring kit and get 25% off an amp on crutchfield. Haven't done the math yet to know if I'd actually be saving money versus just buying from Amazon though.

u/93528761 · 1 pointr/CarAV

Ok so 0 guage can be used for any wattage im assuming?

And what is your opinion on the sub i chose and this one?

u/AnonymousMonkey1 · 1 pointr/hondafit

I had someone install it for me but it didn't take them more than 40 minutes or an hour. The guy placed it in the trunk on the bottom right and mounted the amp on the back of my rear seat. I haven't had any major rattling problems. Here's the sub and amp I used

BOSS Audio AR1500M Car Amplifier – 1500 Watts Max Power, 2/4 Ohm Stable, Class A/B, Monoblock, MOSFET Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S55ES6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ESDLBb74C7KN0

Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sUDLBb74CJYAE

My doors and radio are stock but I plan on getting different speakers in a year or so

Hope this helps a little

u/MysticMixles · 1 pointr/fordranger

So if I were to get something like this, is there a recommended way to secure it to the floor of the truck?