Reddit reviews Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, Sealed Wood Protector, Removes Dirt, Polish To Help Keep Floors Shiny, Original Scent, 27 fl oz
We found 63 Reddit comments about Pledge Floor Gloss Liquid, Sealed Wood Protector, Removes Dirt, Polish To Help Keep Floors Shiny, Original Scent, 27 fl oz. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Ready to useMakes floors look like new againLong lasting shineOriginal scent
So I've done a lot of mopping in my day. Over 2 decades combined working at vet clinics and restaurants, both of which are mopped daily.
Throw out the cheap sponge mops, twirl mops and gimmicky mops. Get a mop bucket with a wringer and a mop handle with a detachaable, washable mop head. I prefer the plastic attachment to the metal on the mop. I've seen the metal get all rusty. This is the mop bucket I got.. It's decent, just feels a little cheap compared to the more commercial ones I'm used to. I would rather a bucket like this which is more sturdy, but I was trying to save money.
For mop heads, do yourself a favor and spend a couple extra dollars and get the kind with the loopy ends that are stitched across like this, instead of the ones that are all loose and cut like this.. The loose ones come apart in the washing machine and get all tangled. I like to have 2 mop heads that I rotate.
Now for the mopping. Make sure you sweep/vacuum before mopping. I find dust mops work best for cleaning up fur and hair. Use hot water in the bucket, and the add your cleaner according to the instructions on the bottle. I've used Pinesol/Mr. Clean/Lysol all with about the same results. Thoroughly wet your mop and then ring it out in the mop bucket. Mop your floors in an figure eight pattern going with the grain of the wood for wood/laminate floors. For wood and laminate floors, it's important not to have too wet of a mop. You do not want puddles of water on your floor as this can damage the floors in the long run. Rewet and ring out the mop frequently.
If I have time, I will sometimes go over my floors a second time with something like Pledge floor cleaner. for shine. These cleaners are not meant to be diluted with water, but applied directly to the floors.
This is not the most exciting video, but it shows the two cleaner process I use as well. You may notice that her mop head attachment is rusted, and she does not use the loopy mop head. Obviously it's not wrong, I just prefer slightly different tools. (She does have the better mop bucket).
If you are a visual learner, there are a bunch of YouTube videos with professional cleaners showing good mopping techniques.
Pledge floor wax, under plastic wineglasses from Walmart to keep the dust out while drying.
Put the pledge into a dropper bottle, you can apply a drop directly to the area you want to work with and push around with a brush. Because it takes a few minutes to dry, it self levels out the brush strokes, but you should cover it while drying to keep clean of dust and hair.
Use as protective layer, mix with paint as glaze, apply before doing chipping, or seal whole mini and then airbrush, because overspray is much easier to remove from clear coat than from paint.
Thin coats, and try to leave surface level while it dries, since it dries slower than other products, you don't want it sliding down hill.
Frankly it has so many uses I'm still exploring.
Use anywhere you would use lahmian medium, and most places you would use ardcoat. It's about seventy times cheaper, so you can afford to experiment.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_xSd8BbJQS4J8Q
I believe its going by "Pledge Floor Gloss" now. Pledge 11182 Revive It Floor Gloss, 27 Ounce, Clear Transparent Liquid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mdqtDbTEVY54R
Here's an amazon link to the floor polish you're looking for. It's the same stuff, they just took the "future" off the packaging.
Pledge floor polish https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1505500753&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+multi+surface+finish
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Y54nqFbXz4o
Worked great on the loose ankle of my Mezco Commander Rogers 👍
You should get get Future Floor polish (this is the current version) and apply it according to these instructions.
It doesn't damage the plastic, it's reversible and one bottle is enough for the rest of your life.
Can take up to a day to dry, though.
well, the most important part of this is how thin do you want your paints to be? Most advice on the internet says to aim for "milky" consistency. This results in the paint being just thin enough that it takes multiple coats to apply a color, but not so thin that it just runs off of the model. Something you could do to acquaint yourself with the way this looks is to buy a small bottle of 2% milk, pour it into a plastic cup and use your paintbrush to "paint" it up the sides of the cup. This should give you an idea of what your final goal could be.
As for materials to thin paint with, you can use several different products:
As you may have noticed, water is a fairly consistent theme. I've hear that you can also use windex + water, but that seems like a waste of a good bottle of windex ;)
Another option, if you are finding it hard to consistently thin the paints, is to use a wet palette. If you keep the wet palette fairly full with water, it will automatically thin down the paint to a certain degree, after which you can add mediums or more water to push it further. It also has the added benefit of keeping the paints wet for an extended period of time. Here is a guide for making your own wet palette to try out: http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/Zpt5gLOoldY1
27oz Pledge Futureshine
Wow I love the look of that kit!!! I'll tell you right now, Pledge clear will be your best friend for removing any stress marks or scratches from removing/sanding nubs
http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451352679&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+clear#Ask
As far as clean decal work goes, make sure to clean the surface of the model with a degreaser before applying the decal. Then, after you cut out the decal and soak it, take it out of the water, still on the paper, and slide it straight on to the model.
"Pledge" or "Future" refers to a certain brand of floor finish that (surprisingly) can be used as a gloss coat. This stuff.
For a guide:
http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide-top-coat-guide (it's a bit far down)
I prefer washes and usually use Vallejo washes. Usually Vallejo oil. If you want to use gloss coat by had, check out this. It can be used both by hand and in an airbrush. It will give you a gloss coat to use with a wash. It is acryllic so don't scrub too hard but it can work very well.
I usually put the wash down and let it sit for a couple seconds then wipe away with my finger. If you want to get really fancy, wipe in the direction you would think rain would move the oil stain down the suit. Example 1 and Example 2. This will give you a pretty good looking run mark for the rain pushing oil or rust down from the site. Take into account where it may gather, then go from there. You can use water and a q-tip if you don't want to use your finger. If you scrub too hard with that it will also strip away the gloss coat. It does take a bit to do that though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the correct floor wax. Got this, two weeks ago. And have been running it through my airbrush gloss coating everything with out issue.
You've done a great job, especially considering it's your first and you chose an airplane - they're generally a little more difficult than armor. Is that a Typhoon? What's next in your build queue?
Like another commenter here said, before applying decals, put down a gloss coat. I've found that [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and this work well. After getting the decals on, then seal them in with another coat, and you can do your weathering without worrying about damaging them. You might want to use Microsol or Markfit when doing the decals - those solutions soften the decal and you don't get the "draping" effect over little surface details. Just be careful and test with the least important decals first, some kits have really thin decals that get destroyed. Other kits have thick decals that need repeated applications of Markfit strong to soften.
This is what I have — not sure what the current equivalent is.
Maybe this: SC Johnson Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish
Maybe?
The floor polish most recommended is this brand:
https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C/
You want a self-leveling acrylic floor polish. Some brands work and others do not.
Pledge future floor finish -- works great as a gloss coat (as well as for tightening loose joints). Just load it into your airbrush and spray. I've always wondered.. how did the first person figure that out?
http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-11182-Future-Acrylic-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=pd_sim_hpc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0V7FEZ3QPJY6C4AH1R4S
Here's the Future stuff via Amazon
Yep! Also, for the record, Future floor polish is an amaaaaaaaaazing clear coat paint if you have an airbrush.
This is the stuff I use.
It's all SC Johnson's fault that you can't get a straight answer. They've re-branded the product at least 4 times, slightly changing the name and packaging. It used to be Future Floor Wax, my bottle says Pledge Multisurface Floor Care, and now it looks like they call it Pledge Floor Care Finish.
This one off amazon is what you want. You should be able to find it in Walmart, Target, Meijer, any stores with a larger "cleaning supplies" area, it will be near stuff like Pine Sol and will be in a clear bottle like the link. It's a clear acrylic liquid and smells lightly fruity.
Hope that helps ya. Stuff works great for us modelers, I put mine into a smaller jar to work with, keeps me from spilling the big bottle! I got it a few years ago, used it on a lot of TFs and Gundams, and it's still like 1/3 full!
Here is where I got mine.
What kind of paint did you use? Do you have an airbrush? Do you plan to sand with 800+ grit before coating?
There's a lot to learn about paint jobs and sealing them. After a few failed attempts and weird reactions, I tend to keep same brand paint throughout a piece (for primers I hop around, but let it dry completely before top coating).
If you're using a different brand I HIGHLY suggest you wait until it has gassed out (it doesn't smell like paint anymore lol). This can take several days depending on how many coats you used, and whether you applied them too thick.
Sanding allows for better grip of the clear coat to the paint. Wet sanding is best since it removes the debris of paint and prevents most deep scrapes. It is easy to sand through your paint, especially if you only did one coat (which is why you should do 2-3 with some light 600 grit sanding in between)...
I hate sanding before a clear because I suck at it and tend to create a deep scratch or two because I'm too strong for my own good :P What I have found to work wonders is Floor polish/wax.
This is the ONLY one that a lot of modelers suggest:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It was known as "Futures" before, but after re-branding and all that, it is now what I linked. You'll need an airbrush for this. Do a light misting of the entire part you're working with, then apply several thin coats allowing them to dry in between (usually 1-2 minutes or less if you have good air circulation). It smells great, self leveling, you can dip small parts into a little cup filled with this stuff... it's fantastic. It's slightly flexible as well. If you wait 38 hours (i think that's what the bottle says) you can apply a second coat for added protection. Make sure to clean your airbrush with ammonia (I use windex), to prevent it from curing inside it.
Essentially, floor polish is more forgiving, but offers slightly less protection than a well applied clear coat. If you don't have time for all that prepping crap (wet sanding before and between clear coats), then definitely go this route.
Is this the brand you use?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1493221253&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+wax
> How would I make the Primer smoother without sanding and just out of the Airbrush? Like those Mr. Surfacer or near their quality
You're not. Hobby paints are made using much finer pigment that gives it that smooth finish. That's why they cost more money. If they didn't have an advantage over $1 spray cans no one would buy them. Straining might help, but it's never going to be as smooth as the expensive hobby primers.
>How would I make the Gloss Coat more glossier?*
If you are looking for a cheap gloss coat buy some Future Floor Polish. You can spray it straight out of the airbrush or thin it with rubbing alcohol. I don't know of a way to make an existing paint glossier. Maybe try buffing afterwards?
If they are too loose you can tighten them by applying a super thin layer of clear nail polish on the peg and letting it dry for 48 hours.
However personally I use future floor polish aka pledge floor polish
http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451296160&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+floor+shine
dip the peg in it vertically [hand up, peg down] and then just tap the end of the peg on a paper towel. let it dry 24 hours.
if its too loose still, repeat!
I've heard that a dip in this is helpful (dip and dry; don't polish).
Np. They keep changing the label - I guess this is what it looks like now: https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C
I lose track because one bottle will last you forever so it's changed a couple of times since I needed to buy any.
I don't believe that's the same. This is what you're looking for. And as far as I know, you can use a paintbrush.
If you ever want to make more transparent masks, I highly recommend Future...oh right they changed the name. [Johnson bought it off] (https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1478320050&sr=8-1&keywords=Future+shine+floor+wax), but it's the same formula. What you do is pour a bit into a cup, mix in a little dye/acrylic paint to your desired color, and then dip the mask in and leave it in there. No chance of mask melting/deforming, and a nice and clean process.
SC Johnstons floor wax, depending on where you live there might be a different name for it, and harder or less hard to find.
Clean out your airbrush thoroughly with Windex (or any cleaning agent of choice) and then water (to remove any ammonia from the Windex) afterwards.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C
To seal metallics the secret is to use Pledge acrylic clear floor finish. you can put it on as soon as the paint dries and it will dry to a hard shiny clear coat that won't dull the metallic sheen. https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496411036&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+floor+care
Same with Future Floor Polish - do people actually use that stuff on floors...
Pledge 11182 Revive It Floor Gloss, 27 Ounce, Clear Transparent Liquid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eVvZBbA92KC50
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_BKGLBb4NB363Q
This is the latest branding of the original formula
Ich möchte Dir diesen Artikel bei Amazon.de empfehlen
S C JOHNSON WAX - Floor Care, 27-oz.
von BIC WAREHOUSE
Weitere Informationen: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_jdo0AbNRAT8DZ
Cheers mate. Simple green over here doesn't exist, variation of is rubbish. I've read so many things to use, dettol, cheap disinfectant, nitromors, meths. I just want an easy solution, I don't want to have to scrub the buggers. I've a memory from being a kid and using nail varnish remover and the paint just going a smudgy mess that came off in strings, it was such a pita I never attempted it again.
I'm also struggling to find some future at a decent price, I'm pretty sure this is the stuff but it's quite pricey.
I'm wondering whether this is the same. Reviews on both say they're both the right stuff. I'm annoyed as thought it was easy to get in the UK and left two massive bottles of it in Aus when I moved. I've got an empty Tamiya paint pot of it and then it's gone.
Time to have a crack at my exhaust! Once again it's a pity to strip as she looks pretty good to me!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Future-Surface-Protect-Restore/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509921459&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+floor+care+finish
Future floor finish.
If it works on figures, it probably works on gunpla.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AKT0EVAUPPAX
I ordered this a couple days ago https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1. According to one of the answered questions, this is the same product, just renamed yet again.
I can't find any information on this pledge on the swammymodels future guide. Is this the same as the 2015 formula of the multi surface finish? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1AKT0EVAUPPAX&psc=1
This right here is what I'm using. It doesn't say future on the bottle but it's the exact same formula, just reskinned. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's a link to the product on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1509879400&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+floor&dpPl=1&dpID=415e8X8G5yL&ref=plSrch
Well, look. There's a simple and complex answer to your question:
The simple answer is: for a white stormtrooper, you want white primer. This is what is highly regarded: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-USA-TAM87044-Surface-Primer/dp/B0000WS01E
After that, you'd have him paint it white (using the vallejo paint), and black, or whatever color the joints are. You can also use gray as the primer, Tamiya makes it in that color, but for obvious reasons, it makes painting the white final layer harder.
Then I'd gloss coat it, in this case, using a wide brush and this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1525394737&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+multi+surface+floor+care
I recommend this stuff because it's one of the few gloss coatings that can be brush painted with relative ease. If there are decals, I'd apply them after the gloss coat dries.
Then, I'd apply the wash. There are several varieties, including prepacked versions:
Tamiya Panel Liner (But you'd need some kind of enamel or whatever thinner they recommend to remove the excess)
Or, more typical for many is an enamel wash (I think Mig AMMO makes those), or oil paint with turpenoid.
If you care about non-toxic (relatively speaking), watercolors will work in a pinch, but like I said, put a drop of alcohol or soap to break surface tension. It's not as good as oil paints for most people.
And then you can spray it with a final coat of matte varnish. I have an airbrush, so I'm partial to this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Bottle-Testors-Testor-Corp/dp/B004I0EVK8
Again, it's one of the flat coatings that can be brush painted rather than sprayed, if you know what you're doing.
The way to think about primer and matte/gloss coating is this :
All three come in spray and non-spray varieties. Future however is a household product with no spray version.
Thanks!
I was thinking of putting some airbrush advice on here, but I figured that most newbies are a long way off from getting an airbrush.
Regarding thinning for airbrushing: I use future floor polish. It's a really thin, clear acrylic that I learned about during the hours of research I did before buying an airbrush. I think it's an old scale modeler's trick.
Will this work? I also have some loose joints to fix
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/
the absolute cheapest route, and safest for paint compatability, is Pledge (aka Future Floor Polish). https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1504883161&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+polish
It is super tough, doesn't yellow, and will not react poorly with any type of paint. Oh, and you can brush or spray it on.
I've heard that Pledge is a good gloss coat but I'm not sure what I should be buying in the uk.
Is this the right stuff https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Klear-Multi-Surface-Wax/dp/B008HFVO32/
Or should I get this which costs quite a bit more https://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C/
That's not the same as I use, from the looks of the back it's not an acrylic like the "Floor Finish". You might want to look for this bottle. Or just order it online.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C
I also remember it being called klear in the uk but I'm not 100%
For clear pieces you'd use either a glosscoat spray or brush/airbrush on some Pledge Floor Care (previously called Future Floor).
Usually for topcoating you do indeed just separate the kit into the large pieces like arms, legs, torseo, etc. One pass with the parts separated in that manner and then once more with the whole kit assembled.
It's called Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish in the US, and goes by various names around the world. Walmart carries it, costs around $6 for a bottle that could clear coat hundreds of models.
It also works pretty well on floors :)
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1493385925&sr=8-3&keywords=pledge+floor+care
I have one dwarf whose like that. If you want to try to fix it, put a drop of super glue or plege floor finish on his hips and work the joints for a few minutes to get it inside and it'll dry while your still moving the legs and that should help tighten them up.
NO!! it is laquer based and may cause the acrylic paint to run. A lot of people use this Future floor care its cheap and lasts for ever and will not damage acrylics.
Do you use acrylics for your paint? If so, Future Floor Polish can most likely be used as a clear gloss coat. I'm not sure what it's labeled as in Australia, but I recall reading comments on other scale modeling forums stating that it is available there.
1)I disagree. I tried 6 different flat topcoats, and by far the FLat Acrylic Crystal clear is the best deal. For $5 bucks you get a can that is more than enough to finish 2-3 HGUC kits.
Name one other flat coat for roughly the same price/amount ?
2) For decals you should buy Pledge Multipurpose Polish (rebranded Future Floor wax). That bottle will last you the rest of your Gunpla career. All you have to do is brush it on where you are going to put your decals, let it dry for a bit and then apply your decals. Another trick (that I did with better results) was you can put your decals on first and then brush on the future floor wax afterwards. This seals in the decal even better, hides the decal edges even better and GURANTEES that your decals will not silver. The only negative to brushing on clear coat is that there is a slight "edge" to the clear coat if you look at it at certain angles.
After that apply your Flat coat as usual
Not sure why this hasn't been suggested yet, but Pledge Future floor polish works as an amazing gloss top coat. It's cheap and comes in large quantities. For about $5, you will have all you need for year.
Here's a link to what I bought, and here's a link on how you should use it!
I use acrylic paints so I use my airbrush to seal it with Pledge Ultimate Floor care (Used to be called Pledge with Future and is much cheaper at Lowe's than Amazon) acrylic sealer. I then add my decals and weathering then spray the entire model with the varnish I will be using. Either glass, matte, or satin.
The major modeling paint companies all have good top coat and varnish options out. Also, check out some videos on YouTube. There are some great resources out there too.
Is this what you purchased? This is the American version (may be called something else in other countries), it does not have ammonia in it. Ammonia will eat acrylic paint if that is what you used to paint your model.
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=pd_lpo_121_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3APXTKM365N28187EE0X
I'd advise against plastic cement. This will degrade the plastic, as it welds two pieces of plastic together rather than merely adhering them. Instead, get some Future Floor Polish (an acrylic that is no longer called 'Future' but is always referred to as such) and brush it onto the piece you want to thicken:
https://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1464798175&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+polish
If it has become foggy from micro-cracking as larwk mentioned you may want to try Future floor finish. It is an acrylic coating that will fill scratches and cracks amazingly well and self-levels beautifully leaving a crystal-clear surface on plastic. It is a tried and tested procedure in the model-making world. Check out this page for a lot more info on its use. Obviously you'd want to try it out on a small area first, but even if it doesn't work for you it is easy to remove with a quick alcohol wipe. You'd also want to use nothing more than a mild detergent to clean it after it is applied and dried.
SC Johnson Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish 27 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zNDgAbMQ8BW87
That same product has been renamed/rebranded several times over the years.
Good thing though, once you buy a bottle you won't need to buy another one for probably 20 years :)
And yes, Pledge Revive It floor gloss. I grabbed some at Walmart, but it's available all over.
https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C
Which part is floppy?
You can cover the floppy joints with layers of this stuff till it's no longer floppy.