Reddit Reddit reviews PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP)

We found 38 Reddit comments about PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Power Tools
Power & Hand Tools
Power Polishers & Buffers
PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP)
Random-orbit, swirl-free sanding/polishing action and 4.5 amp, AC onlyElectronic variable-speed dial from 2,500-6,800 OPMFeatures a proprietary counter balance for use with 6-inch sanding/polishing padAccepts 5/16 - 24 spindle thread accessoriesFeatures a 2-position (left or right) removable side handle for greater comfort and control
Check price on Amazon

38 Reddit comments about PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP):

u/Chocer24 · 9 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Avoid those cheap buffers and get yourself a Dual Action Polisher from a reputable brand. DA polishers are much safer on your car's clear coat and are user-friendly.

Griot's Garage 6" orbital polisher is a popular choice and will last forever.

Porter Cable makes a good polisher although it's not as powerful as Griot's and heavier.

MaxShine Shinemaster M8S is a great budget choice. I personally use this one and love it.

u/identifytarget · 7 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Okay. First off, I'm a newb so take my advice with a grain of salt.

Basic detailing goes like this

  1. Wash / Dry car
  2. Clay bar
  3. Polish [multi-step = (Cutting -> Polishing -> Finishing)]
  4. Wax (remove)

    You can google / youtube for detailed instructions on each step.

    I use a Porter Cable for application / removal

    For polishing, it can be a multiple levels of polish. Think of polish as a really fine sand paper in a liquid. Wipe immediately any that you get on plastic / rubber.

    They make different applicator pads and compound for different levels.

    They make buff pads for removing wax

    For black plastic /rubber you can use [Mother's Back to Black](

    Buy a shitload of microfiber towels.

    You can get 99% of what you need at Autozone. Once you start getting professional, then maybe you need to go online to get the good stuff. I don't know.

    What you can do is experiment. Wash / Dry / Clay only the hood. Then use painter's tape and divide the hood into four sections. Experiment with the different levels of polish in each quadrant so you can see the different. Experiment with different application removal styles etc until you're happy with the results then repeat on the whole car.
u/JRhodes88 · 6 pointsr/FocusST

Actually, this is just from a wash and Chemical Guys Blacklight

About a month ago I did a full detail which included:

u/b-hop · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing is a great starter and fairly capable, I still use mine for personal and some jobs.

u/drleephd · 4 pointsr/DIY

a basic walkthrough of the steps involved are as follows:

  • wash your car with dish soap to strip any wax on it (really!)

  • use a clay bar kit from the auto detailing section of the store to rub down the panels and soak up any contaminants bonded to the paint. it should usually come with a bottle of quick detailer to allow the clay to slide along the paint. you're not buffing here, just trying to catch all the tiny specs of dust bonded to the paint that a wet sponge won't catch. you don't want to polish those into your paint because you'll cause more scratches if you don't remove them.

  • use a cutting polish recommended for your particular paint condition, I won't tell you what to use because it's always something highly debated.
  • I recommend that you use a Dual-action rotary buffer or just a shitload of elbow grease, time, and a soft towel. It can be done by hand, but your arm and shoulder will be very sore when you're done.

  • finish with a good quality wax or paint sealant.
u/someguynamedjohn13 · 4 pointsr/harborfreight

PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher 119.99 over at Amazon. It's the most/best rated.
PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher

u/Ready_4_Change · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Porter Cable 7424XP can be found at Amazon and I would highly recommend the following Junkman videos specific to that DA Polisher. Also he states some supplies to go along with the polisher to help with your shopping list for your brother.



u/bmcclure937 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I am not quite ready to start polishing... but looks like getting 'em for $100 would save about $17-20. (Amazon)

How difficult is it to return an item or exchange or deal with Customer Service if you take part in a group buy?

u/bananas2000 · 3 pointsr/cars

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment: (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)

Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless): (medium aggressive) (most aggressive)

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

Claybar the car:

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

u/SPARTANsui · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This is what I have. It works awesome. You will need a velcro backing plate and the pads to go with it.

So for example, my setup was the porter cable polisher, the Meguiar's 105 & 205 polishes, a 6in. velcro backing plate, orange pads used with the 105, and white pads used with the 205 polish.

I started with the orange pads and the 105 to "cut" the paint. Just to get all those deeps swirls out. This will leave micro swirls, which is why you have to follow up with the 205 and white pads. You could probably skip the 105 step all together and just use either the white pads or black pads. (that is if you don't have really bad swirls) I would probably try to black pads first as they would be the safest and less abrasive.

So here's how I would do it with your car if you just want to try and get minor swirls out. I would 2 bucket wash, dry, and then clay. I would then tape off all your trim (if you plan on doing the whole car) as getting polish stuck between trim or on trim is a PITA. I would just worry about trim that is close to paint. Prep work will take time, but you won't have to slow down when polishing each panel. So once your trim is taped off it's time to get to work. Decide which panel you want to start with. Apply 3-5 drops of 205 polish to the black pad, have some water (preferably distilled) in a spray bottle and mist the pad. Go over to the panel and stick the pad against the panel to spread out the polish. You should have a couple spots where there's 3-5 drops of polish on the panel now. Bring the polisher up to speed, (I usually do a middle speed) and start working the polish into the panel going back and forth in a sweeping motion. Once you have thoroughly gone over the panel, carefully turn off your polisher without lifting off. If you lift off you will get polish EVERYWHERE. Now wipe it dry with a soft microfiber towel. I purchased brand new microfiber towels (basically the softest ones too) from The Rag Company. You want to remove ALL polish residue from the panel as soon as possible. Do not move onto the next panel without doing this. This will also give you an opportunity to check your work. Use a bright light to see if you can spot anymore swirls. You shouldn't see any.

I am by no means a professional, I have only done this once on my own personal vehicle. I believe I got pretty good results. Take my advice with a grain of salt. I just watched Youtube videos to learn what I know. I hope this helps! Don't be too worried or nervous. It's pretty easy and was pretty fun. But I won't lie, because I went over my car twice, my arms were killing me by the end of the day. I could barely finish the last panel (it was on the side) because my arms just wanted to give out. It was hard work, but so so worth it!

It should also go without saying, but be sure to either do this in a garage or in complete spot. You want the paint to be cool and you don't want the polish to dry on the panel. Also you don't want to have any dust blow on your paint or settle. Basically you want your paint as clean as possible before you go to town with your polisher.

u/JuvenileSenseOfHumor · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

In my opinion, if this is your first polisher and you're not a seasoned professional, I would not recommend it.

  1. it's a rotary (not a dual action) sander/grinder/polisher. Dual action is a lot more forgiving and a lot more user friendly.

  2. it's 7 inches - that is massive for a first polisher. Most people recommend a 5-6 inch polisher.

  3. simoniz doesn't make the most quality products. Their price points are amazing, but the quality of the product usually reflects why their price is where it is.

  4. 10' cord is good if you want to strangle yourself. Using extension cables when working with a polisher is annoying as it can come unplugged by you pulling on the cord or inadvertently stepping on it moving from point to point.

    Look for the Griots Garage 6in dual action polisher or the Porter Cable 7424xp 6in dual action. Both can be had for nearly as cheap. I kept the GG polisher in my Amazon waitlist because it goes on sale from time to time for $155'ish which is a steal.

    Griot's Garage 10813LNGCRD 6-Inch Random Orbital Polisher with 25-Feet Cord

    PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher

    Also, check out the wikilinks in the sidebar for recommended products -
u/slow_cars_fast · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I have been looking at this one:

Mostly because there is one at a local pawn shop for cheap. Anyone else have one that can verify that it's good stuff? Or should I spend the extra coin and get the same setup OP bought?

u/hellfst · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I never took a class, just watch a lot of videos. If you do decide to get a polisher, mare sure its a DA polisher. The one I use is proven to not burn the paint. At lease if you don't hold it down in one section for 20 minutes lol. It is the Porter Cable 7424 xp. I attach a 6 inch backing plate to it and use it with some of Meguiar's Polishing pads. Here is a link if you want to learn more:
Now that I think about it, Chemical Guys also sell like a complete kit that looks like a reasonable price. Here is a link:

I actually got mines from a local store and got rip off. This old lady sold it to me for 180 with pads only... bummer.
I think all you really need to do is clean the area well, clay it, mask it, and start with your polisher depending on the condition of the clear coat. edit: I can't spell lol

u/orlheadlights · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

That polisher isn't ideal for doing paint correction.

One of these is a great starter:

u/RGeronimoH · 2 pointsr/howto

If going to this amount of effort you can just use automotive polishing compound (bar keepers friend paste would probably be pretty close) and a wax/polishing machine. It will remove the buildup and then you can apply a coat of wax or Rain-X and you can do it inside your bathroom as long as you put a board to support the glass.

Take both doors out and lean a couple of 2x4 in your shower from the back wall to the front lip and then lean the glass against them. liberally apply polishing compound or barkeepers mix to the glass and then use the buffer ON A LOW SPEED - high speed will just make the paste fly everywhere.

I was about to do this to mine again but will try a couple of the 'easy' remedies mentioned above first.

Automotive detailers use this method on windshield of cars to remove buildup and grime and they look brand new after. I bought the Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher/Sander to polish/wax a black car that I owned and the paint was very neglected from sitting outside the past 15 years. After using a buffing compound the paint looked absolutely perfect. I used a polishing compound on the windshield and all of the scratches from the wipers and road grit were gone. The car was pristine - unfortunately I did this to sell it faster instead of to keep :-(

Edit: Your picture just loaded for me, you could probably do this while the door is closed and without removing the glass. If you open the door for better access while doing it be sure to put up a plastic sheet to keep it from spraying everywhere.

u/sboyerfour · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

The actual tool I used was Porter Cable's DA Polisher

With that I did:

  • Simple microfiber mitt wash
  • Microfiber towel dry
  • Full body clay bar using this kit

  • All-in-one wax & polish with this, applying with these.

    If you go this route, you'll also need a [hook&loop attachment]
    ( for the polisher. I did a lot of research before landing on what would get me good results with very minimal time. I did the whole thing in about 4 hours, after not having done anything but a normal wash for 3.5 years. about 9 months later, I'm ready for (need) another detailing.
u/wdgiles · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Harbor freight is definitely cheaper, but for ease of use and reliability, you can't go wrong with the PC7424.

u/thisonewillbeforgete · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Depends on the depth. If they're just light scratches across the clearcoat then it can be fixed with DA machine polishing, but if its really gouged into the paint then you can only just improve it at the most.

For fixing light scratches, for example using on my BRZ, I use a Porter Cable / Meguiar's G100 DA (dual-action) polisher with the DA Microfiber correction system with the 5 inch microfiber cutting disks. I use Meguiar's ultimate compound with the DA on areas were im just fixing light cobwebbing since it's lighter. Then follow up with a full wax. The two links provided below should cover it:

DA Polisher:


The kit includes everything including the backing plate to fit the Porter Cable polisher. Only things missing from the kit needed are microfiber towels.

u/gswoff · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and beginners guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP)

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad

Buffing Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

u/truckosaurus · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

If you want that particular DA I would buy it off amazon its 117.99 with free shipping (click add to cart to see the price)

then, since you're kinda new to machine finishing I would go with a microfiber pad and something less aggressive like megs microfiber formula

u/Worganizers · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing
I would get this porter cable or if you are looking for a cheaper approach maybe the Harbor Freight Dual Action.

u/evilv3 · 1 pointr/Trucks

This was polished (heavy cut then light cut) then waxed using a Porter Cable.

7" front lift and 5.5" rear progressive leafs + 1" block. It was super dangerous on stock leafs with TWO stacks 3" blocks.

u/Fyrel · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

If you have a dual action polisher (e.g. Harbor Freight or Porter Cable 7424 ), then it's definitely worth it to polish. By hand...well, if you've got about a week's worth of time and patience maybe.

If you don't want to make the investment in a dual action polisher or don't want to spend a long time polishing by hand, a wax may be the way to go. Most waxes will temporarily "fill" the tiny scratches, rendering them smoother, harder to see and ultimately making your car shinier. It will only last as long as the wax is on the paint though, which may be anywhere from a couple weeks to 2 or 3 months.

Because polish is a fine abrasive, yes, you can polish your car too often. Your car only has so much paint, and polish works by sanding off a very fine layer to smooth the paint out. As you can imagine, eventually it's possible to sand through the entire clear coat, especially with a heavier cutting compound. The less clear coat you have on your car, the less UV protection it has as well, so it will naturally degrade faster if you don't protect it (which is why applying a protective layer of wax, sealant or ceramic coating is essential after polishing).

u/Simbakush · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Porter Cable on Amazon is only $96 bucks IF you go to checkout

PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher

u/umsco226 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I recently bought this polisher ( and I see that it says it is a 6 inch polisher. Does that mean I need to buy 6 inch pads? Also, do I need to buy a specific type of backing plate? Do I even need to buy a backing plate?

u/seacritasianman · 1 pointr/cars

Definitely check out r/AutoDetailing,

But some quick tips, make sure you get a dual action orbital polisher, not a normal rotary polisher. It's pretty easy to mess up your paint with a normal one if you're not well practiced, but DA polishers are pretty easy to use as long as you pay attention to what you're doing. There's also random orbit polishers, but those don't generally provide enough power to do any serious paint correction...



Rotary polisher (hard to use):


Random orbit polisher (no power):


Dual Action polisher (what you probably want...):

u/lanmansa · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

A glaze would certainly cover up imperfections but it won't last too long. What country are you in? Can you do shipping through Amazon? If so I would recommend this, if price and shipping isn't too crazy.

Then check out the chemical guys pads on Amazon as well. If you cant get good shipping via Amazon then I'm sorry, I wish I knew more to be of help! But good luck!

u/CarsAndBikesAndStuff · 1 pointr/cars

I am very OCD about my car and its paint. I also live in an apartment complex with no hose, no covered parking and lots of shitty parkers. I recommend hitting up r/autodetailing and checking out their wiki.


As for my own cirumstances, I don't have a clear bra or ceramic coats as I prioritize paying my student loans to hundred to thousands of dollards of paint protection. However, I clean my car using AMMO Frothe, and do paint correction every so often as needed with a DA, Maguiars 205 and 105, and some Chemical Guys orange and white pads. I used Wolfgang Gloss 3.0 sealant on my car before winter and every month during the warmer months. If the car needs it, I'll do a gentle clay application before sealing.


Edit: This is the DA I use, but I recommend getting a separate velcro backing plate to mount reusable pads. Full disclosure, my gf works for the corporate parent company of Porter-Cable, and I got the thing dirt cheap.

u/pwnstarz48 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing
u/redsoxfan95 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hello every one, my questions seem like they're fairly simple so I'll get right to the point.

I'm trying to figure out if my car needs compound or if it just needs to be polished/waxed. The car is white so it was kind of hard to get a picture of the swirls. Here is a picture. The whole car is like this.

I'm also planning on buying this polisher. And I'm not really sure which brand of pads I should get for it for compounding (if needed), polishing and waxing.

I've never polished a car before so I'd like to practice on my old car then move on to my dads newer car which is a red 2011 ford focus, then move up to a grey 2016 ford escape, just thought I'd let you know.

u/nahreddit · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Buy a Porter Cable 7424XP buffer and some cutting compound and polishing compound and buff it out after a good clay barring.

u/itsmemike05 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

While I don't have that specific new one, I do own the previous generation.

It's an average tool. It's a little louder than other ones I have used, nor does it have the same amount of power output.

If you can spare an extra $40, I'd personally recommend this:

u/ryantrip · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing
u/nakedjay · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Just an FYI, you can get the 7424X for $119.99 off Amazon.

u/mightyprometheus · 0 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This polisher? I remember reading some time ago that there was some mod people were doing with this one and the power switch or something and that the newer model wasn't able to do this?

Also, because it has variable speed - what is a good speed to work with?

I found this and this. Any input on these?