Reddit reviews Pyle Hydra Marine Amplifier Upgraded Elite Series 400 Watt 4 Channel Audio Amplifier Waterproof, Dual Mosfet Power Supply, Gain Level Controls, RCA Stereo Input & LED Indicator (PLMRA400),BLACK
We found 11 Reddit comments about Pyle Hydra Marine Amplifier Upgraded Elite Series 400 Watt 4 Channel Audio Amplifier Waterproof, Dual Mosfet Power Supply, Gain Level Controls, RCA Stereo Input & LED Indicator (PLMRA400),BLACK. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Premium 4 Channel Amplifier: Pyle’s PLMRA400 is engineered as a 4 channel marine amplifier that allows high quality stereo reproduction from source; This will power up your speaker and Universally compatible with a variety of head unitsRCA Sterro Input: For an easier use of this hydra marine amplifier, it comes with premium RCA inputs; If your marine receiver lacks RCA output jacks, you can connect speaker output leads to the high level terminal inputsShort Protection: Built with a heavy duty Aluminum Alloy heatsink, thermal overload speaker short protection and LED light indicator; These are to protect the amp and Your vehicle's electrical system from short circuit conditionsPowerful 400 WATT: This amplifier is Powerful with its 100 WATT x 4 max or 400 WATT and dual Mofset power supply comes with dual adjustable input gain level controls between 1 300mV and 4 or 8 Ohm speaker impedanceMarine Grade: With its marine rating of IP 01, it is waterproof ready It’s constructed with gold plated speaker output terminal connectors as well to combat corrosion with long term useNote: Ensure that the power source is the correct voltage/amperage, also check the wiring and speaker load
I built a simpit that has two USB sound cards in it running seven channels: chassis, pedals, seat bottom, and seat back. USB sound cards are not recommended, but I wanted my simpit to be somewhat separated from my computer, and it's working for me.
It took some fiddling/tuning to get it right, but it really makes a huge difference in the immersion. I especially love being able to feel the gears shifting, and being able to tell from that how smoothly the gears changed. Without it turned on the car just feels dead now.
I do wish I had used larger transducers for the chassis corners, as they are on the underside of 5/8" MDF base. Seat and pedals are great. I used the following:
It's these StarTech USB sound cards that needed to be in 5.1 mode. In Quadraphonic I don't believe I was getting any channel separation in the SimVibe output.
General rule of thumb is that amps in a similar price range with similar power output sound pretty much the same.
Even across price ranges there's not a tremendous difference between amps at low output levels, just like a $90K Mercedes AMG won't get you around a crowded mall parking lot much better than a $17K Nissan Versa. Aside from the heated seats and overall coolness factor, the performance difference between the two is not really felt until you start approaching highway speeds or really pushing their performance past polite limits.
Amps should not be fucking around with the sound. They should just be delivering it accurately. Just like your cable box or bluRay player should not be trying to jack up the colors or brightness on your TV shows: they should simply be accurately relaying the signal.
I have plenty of experience with car audio
It's not too different. One thing that may surprise you is the lower "power ratings"... like, why can one buy a "400-Watt" Pyle car audio amp for $37 but a reputable home theater amp costs more has has "less watts?"
Short answer there is that power ratings for Class D amps, which I believe 100% of car audio uses at this point, are always really inflated.
There is nothing wrong with Class D amps and a lot of home audio amps are Class D as well, just know that there's no real standard for those power output numbers and manufacturer's claims are particularly wacky for Class D amps.
Or I could get a well known (vintage?) stereo receiver from the 1970s for example a Yamaha CR-420
I wouldn't buy an amp this old unless it was cheap and you just wanted to experiment. Electronics from the 1970s are pretty hit or miss. After a few decades capacitors dry out or otherwise fail. This either changes the sound of the amp or makes it stop working entirely.
I can buy a new Sony STR-DH130, or a 7-15 year old Denon (or other) surround receiver with 90 w per channel that was originally $900 for $50-100 on Craigslist
Either one should get the job done but I'd probably go with the Denon. CL is a goldmine for home theater receivers, since people sell perfectly good ones all the time when they need newer HDMI features.
The Denon will also have a proper crossover feature, if you add a subwoofer at some point. That lets you send the low freqs to the sub, and the mids and highs to your main speakers. Adding a sub to the Sony is possible but more of a pain and the results won't be quite as nice.
There is such a thing as a 12-volt amplifier - check Amazon. It isn't fancy - it just has inputs and outputs, and sometimes a volume dial. You would plug your audio in into it, and it would pump the sound out to the vehicle speakers.
The factory CD/Radio would still work, but if you turned both of them on at once you'd hear both. It's not ideal to plug two sources into the same speaker, but it will work - you might have to check polarity (get the + and - the same for both inputs). You might also use an audio "mixer" to switch between the two sources. Find a smart stereo installer and they should be able to figure it out.
Putting another stereo in the glove box would also work.
If you want bluetooth, of course, you can add a bluetooth adapter.
Here is a simple 4-channel amp.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLMRA400-4-Channel-Waterproof-Amplifier/dp/B000N5T0T4
Thanks so much!!! Would you be able to recommend an amp? I really have no clue what a good one is.
Edit: Something like this? https://www.amazon.ca/Pyle-PLMRA400-4-Channel-400W-Amplifier/dp/B000N5T0T4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480227641&sr=8-1&keywords=4+channel+amp
I saw this picture somewhere awhile ago, and it always stuck with me. Yeah, that is what I want. So I removed my whole head unit and replaced it with just an amp and a bluetooth receiver.
Now my car is a giant gadget -- basically a big bluetooth speaker. I run all of my music off my phone, and what used to be my stereo is a blank panel on the dash.
You should be able to use most usb dacs, heres an article to help you pick. If you are planning on taking out the old head unit you will also need an amp to drive the speakers, any auto amp that matches your speakers should be fine. If you are going for 4 speakers this one should be ok.
edit: after looking at the reviews of that amp, this one might be a better choice. Neither of these have enough power to drive a woofer, if you were going to add one.
Okay. So from what you told me I have put together this so far:
I envision a 4-way speaker system with two speakers aiming at about 45 degrees to the front and sides. And then two speakers aiming to the rear.
If I got 4 of these speakers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BZFSYA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
This amp: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5T0T4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ADCZTTE1BO460
This power supply: http://www.batteryspace.com/LiFePO4-Prismatic-Battery-12.8V-40Ah-512Wh-10C-Rate-without-Balancing.aspx
Then what else would I need? The most convient way to source music is from our phones, so we have been usin a male 3.5mm to 2 RCA cable. What would be the best option for a mixer or receiver to control volume etc.?
Thanks a lot for your help. I really appreciate it.
speakers
amp
Not sure about the ohm of the speakers, but what would I gain by using all 4 channels 1 speaker per channel as opposed to my current set up which is outputting 2 speakers on the first 2 channels, I does work and sounds great, but I was just wanting to make sure I get the most out of it.
Vga/hdmi>switch at podium>hdmi>hdmi tx>cat7 stp>hdmi rx>hdmi>projector>3.5mm to l/r rca(or terminal/phoenix block>amp>speaker wiring>speakers
Speakers: I have no idea. I salvaged them from a classroom like 10 years ago, installed them into this room back then, and then we stopped using them like 5 years ago. We tried to figure it out before we bought the amp, but couldn't find any useful writing on them anywhere.
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Projector: Panasonic PT-DZ570
Amp: https://smile.amazon.com/Pyle-Hydra-Marine-Amplifier-Waterproof/dp/B000N5T0T4
Extender: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-Through/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/
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Switcher: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-VS221HDQ-Automatic-Priority-Switching/dp/B00IUCVUB8/
We have one of that switcher, and one from the same company that's HDMI or VGA in instead of 2 HDMI. Same behavior is in each room.
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I'm looking to put together a festival setup that doesn't have to get crazy loud, but just decent loudness to play up a small campsite with some good tunes. I've been searching around a lot lately, and so far, my ideas look like this.
Get 4x Visaton BG 20
Get a Pyle PMRA400
Run it all off a car battery, at least 60Ah, like this one (In Danish).
Make up my own custom box, plug in a phone, and have some nice portable audio.
Again, this doesn't have to be a top-of-the-line audio system, but being able to play somewhat loudly, preferably enough to also bring to an inside house party and get some good quality audio, would be amazing.
My question being, how well suited would you say my current choice of amp and speakers are? Should I get something else? Of course this is all about maximising output-to-power ratio, as it'll be driven off a battery and not an always-on power source.
My preferred places of buying will be Thomann as they have lots of gear for relatively good prices, and of course Amazon (UK version as .com doesn't ship to Denmark)
For those speakers I would get something like this and find a good 12v power adapter...