Reddit Reddit reviews Recoton Fiber Optic Toslink to 3.5mm Mini Adapter

We found 29 Reddit comments about Recoton Fiber Optic Toslink to 3.5mm Mini Adapter. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Recoton Fiber Optic Toslink to 3.5mm Mini Adapter
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29 Reddit comments about Recoton Fiber Optic Toslink to 3.5mm Mini Adapter:

u/SwissMoose · 14 pointsr/hometheater

Why plug in a Chromecast Audio with basic analog cables when it supports an optical connection?

Adapter or Cable would both work really well and you wont have any crappy line noise.

u/rvazquezdt · 13 pointsr/headphones

All MacBooks have the ability to do optical audio out through the standard 3.5mm jack. All you needed was this: http://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM

u/rugyg · 8 pointsr/mac

The 3.5mm headphone jack on modern MacBooks are analog/digital combo jacks. You can use a Toslink to 3.5mm Adapter to send digital audio from your MacBook.

u/Lochmon · 5 pointsr/AskReddit

Anyone using a newer Mac should check the specs on the audio output... for many of them, that little 1/8" RCA jack is also capable of outputting optical. If so, you need a toslink to optical mini adapter for about a dollar plus postage and handling. My local Apple store didn't even know this!

And, yeah... I had cable, realized I just never used it anymore, and dumped it; no regrets.

u/AeroRandy · 5 pointsr/Games

http://webassets.scea.com/e3-2013/webasset/ps4-hrdware-large10.jpg

Does anyone know how I can get stereo audio output and HDMI video output at the same time? My current setup for my PS3 is with my HDMI connected to my computer monitor with this. And I have the audio cord connected to my Speakers with this. Would anyone know if I could replicate that with the PS4?

EDIT: Would this work?

Option 1: A Digital Output to 3.5mm Audio adapter connected my speakers which in turn is connected to the PS4 via a optical audio cable?

Option 2: Digital Audio to Analog Audio cable.

Option 3: HDMI audio/video splitter, this looks absolutely perfect.

My head tells me that these won't work cause when I was google searching, an actual converter box required DC power. If anyone had any experience with this, please help me out.

u/wparsons · 4 pointsr/audiophile

If you run an optical cable from your MBP's audio port, you won't need an external sound card. Instead, you'll be relying on the DAC in your receiver, which will probably be quite good.

In case you weren't aware, the 3.5mm stereo port on your MBP doubles as an optical output with the correct adapter such as this.

u/therightclique · 3 pointsr/mac

It's not a Toslink connector, if that's what you're thinking.

It's a 3.5mm connector that can be adapted to Toslink, like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MQGRM/?tag=support-simkl-20&sa-no-redirect=1

I've never in my life seen anybody use a laptop audio port for optical audio though.

u/woodne · 2 pointsr/mac

I could be wrong, but I believe all Macs do have an optical audio out, its just a smaller plug than that square thing. Perhaps you just need an adapter? Not sure if that's a thing that can even be done. I've never used optical audio on my Macs.

Edit: To be clear, the optical out is the same plug as the regular audio out.

This is the adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y

u/colepanda · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Sure. The audio can be a little tricky but here is what I have. The easiest thing would be if your home theater system or tv accepted optical inputs so that you could use the xbox's built in optical and connect if directly to your tv or home theater system without doing any conversions. If that does not work you have to convert the optical to a 3.5mm connection or a rca audio connection (these are the red and white components next to your dvi connection) . The way to do that is by way of adapter or cords. Like others have stated adapters might give you latency problems. So a cord might prove the better way to go. Ultimately for your connection it looks like you will have to go from optical to 3.5mm to RCA audio. Conversely the newer controllers have a 3.5mm connection built into it. So you would just have to go from 3.5mm to RCA audio.

I'll try to find links but hopefully this gives you a starting point.

Edit

Start with this or {this + this} then convert that signal to RCA with this

-In theory this should work

u/ima747r · 2 pointsr/xbmc

You want DVI to HDMI, you can get an adapter or just a straight DVI/HDMI cable.

For audio the audio jacks are both combined digital optical and phono. For digital audio you need a Toslink to 3.5mm adapter or cable (and obviously a digital optical input on your sound system). If you have a digital optical cable around just get an adapter for super cheap. If you don't have digital audio you can just get a headphone to RCA adapter or cable for stereo.

A more optimized distribution for Kodi than just running it on Mac OS might be nice, but I don't think it would be critical, it's not horrifically slow, but you'll have to test and see. Easiest thing to do since you got it for free is just make a new user (so you've got a good clean user account without years of someone else crap in the way) and try running Kodi from there, if it's good then you can clear out the old account or whatever at your leisure. If it's not up to snuff then consider installing openelec or something along those lines.

u/SloppyCandy · 2 pointsr/sffpc

OP here, I have an ASrock board, I fixed my issue with a driver (re?) install.

Also, I thought the ASUS boards had optical via a 3.5mm combo jack and an adapter like this

u/ben174 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Yea you can likely use one of these to output toslink from your 3.5mm jack:

http://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM

u/nicbrown · 2 pointsr/audiophile

A USB DAC and soundcard are much the same thing.

Basically, chip design has progressed to the point where you can get a simple USB DAC on a chip. It will come with a datasheet showing you which pins to connect to USB pins, power, and output. This sort of chip is at the heart of USB soundcards, pro audio interfaces and many other computer audio devices.

My USB DAC is cheap, and it has been built for compactness. Others take a lot of care to isolate the digital decoding part from the analog audio output part.

On the other side of things, we have Audio DACs. These devices are present in every CD player, but it was the fashion at the height of the CD era to have an outboard DAC stage. This would take the raw digital signal from the CD and turn it back into line level analog audio. Rather than plug connect the receiver via the red and white analog RCA inputs, you could connect your CD player via a digital link. This was either a fiber optic cable, or a single RCA link, usually color coded yellow or black.

Some home theatre receivers could handle the decoding of raw digital audio from CDs or DVDs, so may have an optical/RCA digital input. If your amp had such an input, you can connect your Macbook to your receiver via a single fiber optic cable, one end of which plugs into your regular headphone jack (you can purchase these cables readily online). Or you can use this optical cable to connect your Mac to a DAC/Soundcard, and as optical fibers carry no electrical current, the nasty hum can't get into your analog signal chain.

If your amp has a RCA digital input, but no fiber optic input, you need a little decoder box that converts the optical signal to a digital signal travelling in copper wire. Toslink is optical. Spdif is digital over copper.

With the rise of computer audio, the line between USB soundcard and DAC have been blurred. If you look at the back panel of the DAC Magic you will see that it has a USB input, two pairs of digital inputs (useful for a CD player or the optical a out of a computer - Note the fiber and RCA links) a further digital signal out, then analog outputs.

The noise you describe is a ground loop. Old timers may confuse you and claim that ground loops have a distinctive 60hz hum, but computer ground loops are a slightly different problem. It will sound like a faint high voltage discharge, and occasionally squeal like an out of tune radio. It may be more pronounced when you move windows around on screen, or when you scroll a web page. It can be more apparent in more sensitive gear, but it can also pop up in cheaper speakers.

tldr; if your amp has a true digital input, go optical. If not, then get the Turtle beach USB soundcard to begin with.

Hope you are still concious!

u/jhpton · 1 pointr/audio

Your iMac may support optical audio supporting 5.1. Which iMac do you have?

If so, the optical jack is combined with the 3.5mm stereo analog line level / headphone jack. To use this you'll need an an 3.5mm mini optical to toslink adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002MQGRM?pc_redir=1396793440&robot_redir=1. Then you'd need an optical cable and a 5.1 system with optical input.

u/toja92 · 1 pointr/mac

Do you have an adapter and do you have it connected to a 5.1 or 7.1 receiver?

A suitable adapter should be something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MQGRM/

I'm guessing you need to connect it before something happens. Maybe you'll have to change some settings in OS X as well.

u/nm1000 · 1 pointr/audiophile

"if I output with mini toslink, is the sound still being run thru the DAC in my macbook?"

No. The DAC in the HK will be used.

Toslink is the standard used for optical digital connections in consumer electronics. the HK AVR 1565 appears to have two optical digital inputs, which will accept standard toslink cables.

http://g-ec2.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/electronics/detail-page2/B00548SKH8_back.jpg

Mini TOSLINK is a variant of the connector that is shaped like a 3.5mm audio plug. The 3.5mm audio jack most Macbooks has both analog contacts and an optical output. Therefore you can plug an optical cable, with a mini TOSLINK connector, into the Macbook's audio output jack.

This cable will connect a Macbook to the HK.

http://www.amazon.com/6ft-Toslink-Mini-Cable/dp/B000FMXKC8


Or you can use a standard TOSLINK cable with an adaptor like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y


This page describes the audio connections found on most Macs.

http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4806



u/SAFETYpin6 · 1 pointr/audiophile

You'll either need a toslink to mini toslink adapter or a cable that has one of each.

u/asdf-user · 1 pointr/fireTV

Well since there probably aren't any surround drivers for my headset anyway it looks like I'll be using something like this and use my regular speakers.

Edit: I'll have to use something like you probably, don't think the FireTV supports the kind of plug I posted a link to :/

u/I3igAl · 1 pointr/ZReviews

The new SMSL AD18 has two optical inputs, one of them is 3.5mm style that you need an adapter, I will link at the bottom.
 
An additional option that you may consider, put a SoundBlaster Recon 3D or SoundBlaster Z sound card in your PC. it has an optical input and an output, and can pass your PS4 through to the DAC/AMP, as well as mix PS4 and PC sound to play both simultaneously. I use this so I can use PC to watch netflix/twitch or play music while I game on xbox.
 
www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWV62 for toslink to mini toslink if you want a specific cable
www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MQGRM if you want to use the adapter and a regular optical cable
www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY96MKC SMSL AD18 DAC AMP

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-0DR8F-00DR8F-Creative-Labs-Sound-Blaster-SB1350-Recon3D-5-1-THX-Sound-Card/381776420498

u/counttheshadows · 1 pointr/xbox360

https://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM something like that with another adapter maybe. There are headsets that use the optical port as well. My old Turtle beaches did.

u/poweruser86 · 1 pointr/applehelp

It will generally work fine to have a little network extension overlap on the same SSID for stationary devices and machines that don't stream content regularly, but for best results from Airplay the fewer the access points the better. Airplay streaming doesn't handle devices transitioning APs very well, and nearly always drop the stream when the source or target device migrate from one access point to another. You can fix this by building a managed wifi deployment with a WLAN controller and fancy APs that manage connections better, but that's way outside the scope of the OP's needs.


You're likely not noticing issues because you're streaming from a generally fixed location source device (desktop / laptop running iTunes) to a fixed location endpoint (Airport Express). If you start streaming music to your Airport Express from an iPhone, iPad, iPod, or a laptop you're carrying and move around your house, you'll likely experience streaming drops and inconsistent audio performance.

Oh, and if you'd like to use any of your much more common toslink-connector optical cables, a 1/8" optical adapter can be had on amazon for $2.04

u/post_break · 1 pointr/mac

I think this would force it to stay on. You'd have to leave it plugged in. I can't verify this though.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/xboxone

something like this?

u/HalalCadmium · 1 pointr/headphones

Thanks for the reply!

So, what you're saying is that using the E12 in the "default" way (dt770 to E12 input jack, with included male-to-male 3.5mm into E12 output jack and MacBook/iPhone's input jack) is "double amping"? Do you think using a "line out" is absolutely necessary, or would it increase sound quality by only a little bit?

If I used what you suggested for the MacBook, how would I plug the Optical end into the MacBook? Would I need this?

Thanks, I appreciate it!

u/prophetben · 1 pointr/mac

Use an adapter like this and a standard optical audio cable to connect your MBP up to your digital audio amplifier.

https://www.amazon.com/Recoton-Fiber-Optic-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B0002MQGRM