Reddit Reddit reviews Rikon Professional Power Tools, 80-805, 8” Slow Speed Bench Grinder, Powerful Shop Table Tool, Perfect for Sharpening, With Anti-Vibration Rubber Feet

We found 5 Reddit comments about Rikon Professional Power Tools, 80-805, 8” Slow Speed Bench Grinder, Powerful Shop Table Tool, Perfect for Sharpening, With Anti-Vibration Rubber Feet. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Power Tools
Power Grinders
Power Bench Grinders
Power & Hand Tools
Rikon Professional Power Tools, 80-805, 8” Slow Speed Bench Grinder, Powerful Shop Table Tool, Perfect for Sharpening, With Anti-Vibration Rubber Feet
HIGH QUALITY - This durable bench grinder includes 1” x8” 60 grit and 120 grit white aluminum oxide wheels.POWERFUL - With powerful ½ HP Motor with 1750 RPM this slow speed grinder has more than enough power for small workshops and for carpenters, turners, carvers, and other crafts people working with hand tools.STURDY AND SAFE - This grinders base is made of Cast Iron and features anti-vibration rubber feet. No mistakes will be made because of vibrations.ADJUSTABLE - The adjustable safety eye shield and spark resistors allow you to feel safe while using the slowspeed grinder. Also, this bench grinder includes a groove in its design for the sharpening of drill bits.KEEP IT COOL - This grinder is fully equipped with a diamond wheel sharpener and is ideal for sharpening operations since it reduces heat build-up.
Check price on Amazon

5 Reddit comments about Rikon Professional Power Tools, 80-805, 8” Slow Speed Bench Grinder, Powerful Shop Table Tool, Perfect for Sharpening, With Anti-Vibration Rubber Feet:

u/badwhiskey63 · 5 pointsr/turning

Some ideas:

Slow speed grinder for sharpening tools


Wolverine jig to aid in sharpening But he needs a grinder also.

If he only has the starter set of tools, he probably doesn't have a bowl gouge Those are the very best. I think 3/8 or 1/2 V-shaped is a good choice. He'll need to make a handle, but that's a good starter project.

A chuck is another great choice, but more expensive and we'd need to know the type of lathe to help pick it out.

u/hypnosmurf · 2 pointsr/handtools

All the crappy farm tables and diy projects on r/woodworking a your post gets removed, wtf.

I have a rikon half speed 1850 rpm 8" grinder with a 80 grit CBN cubic boron nitride wheel and a veritas tool rest. Shapton ceramic 320, 1000, 5000, 12000 stones. A 36"x6" 3 cm thick piece of granite and use adhesive backed sandpaper rolls. I wax the granite to allow the paper to come off the granite easily.

grinder

cbn wheel


tool rest

stones

320 g

1000 g

5000 g

12000

sand paper

u/tigermaple · 1 pointr/turning

Well, of course the main thing (and really the only thing you need until you start getting fancy) is a (dry) bench grinder. Here's one that gets mentioned a lot, and here's the one I have.

8" is better than 6", and low speed (1750 RPM) is better than high (3500 RPM). but you could make do with a 6" high speed grinder if you had to. And since high speed 6" grinders are generally lots cheaper than 8" low speed grinders, you could get by with something more like this if you had to, but be prepared for more frustration and a steeper learning curve than you'll have with the bigger low speed grinders.

Why is that? You may hear some people say that a high speed grinder will get tools too hot and they'll lose their temper, and that is indeed a concern with the high carbon steels that bench chisels for flatwork are made out of. (Lathe chisels and gouges used to be made out of high carbon steel also). However, modern gouges for turning are almost all made of HSS - high speed steel, the same stuff you'll find on router bits and the like. It's designed to get hot and you would have to be consciously trying really hard to ruin its temper because the point at which HSS begins to lose its temper is around 1000 - 1100 degrees (F), well beyond the "blueing" of the steel that occurs around 600 degrees.

So, what's the problem with a high speed grinder then? Put simply, they just eat away steel that much faster and the compound shapes needed to properly put what we call a "fingernail profile" on a gouge are harder to learn when you have to move through what is at first an unnatural series of movements that much faster. Not impossible by any means, just a little more challenging!

The Tormek and Worksharp that /u/KiltedCajun mentions are totally unnecessary for sharpening woodturning tools imo. Would I use them if I had them? You bet! It's always fun to play with a new toy. However, I'd be willing to bet he had them for other things first and didn't buy them specifically with turning in mind.

One thing that most turners do wind up getting is the Wolverine sharpening jig- it's essentially a two-sided grinding jig that goes under both sides of you grinder and makes getting a repeatable grind shape so much easier. It's gotten to the point where it's damn near ubiquitous in the turning world. Take a turning class anywhere from Rockler to community college to the top art schools and you'll see a Wolverine jig. More about those- base unit and vari-grind gouge attachment. As you can see, these will add to as much, if not more than, the cost of your grinder, but they aren't essential if you've got the patience to learn how to freehand. That being said, I can freehand sharpen if I have to but I'm not giving up my Wolverine anytime soon.

u/Moumar · 1 pointr/woodworking

In my opinion the most efficient way to sharpen in terms of both cost and time is to use a bench grinder to hollow grind your edge then use diamond plates to hone it. The grinder will allow you to quickly remove any damage to the edge, reset the bevel and create a hollow grind. A hollow grind means that the bevel is slightly concave. This means that when you put the bevel flat on a stone to hone it material will only be removed from the outer edges making it faster because you don't have to remove much steel. It's also easier to sharpen without a honing guide because you don't have to use a micro bevel. This image demonstrates what I mean. Here's a good video on using a bench grinder. You only need to grind the bevel once the hollow becomes too small to efficiently hone the edge or you chip or dent the edge. A good bench grinder should cost $80-120. This Rikon is a pretty good deal because comes with the right type of wheels unlike most other grinders.

After grinding I like to use diamond stones to hone the edge. I like diamond stones because they're low maintenance and a bit cheaper when compared to waterstones. I personally have Eze-Lap Coarse/Medium and Fine/Superfine doublesided plates. Some people prefer the single sided plates in which case go for the Coarse, Fine and Superfine. I went for the double sided plates because you get an extra grit for the same price and I don't mind flipping them over. A few strokes on each grit will remove the grinding marks and bring the edge up to a near mirror polish. To give the edge a final polish I use a strop and charged with green honing compound. I made the strop out of some scrap leather and a piece of scrap hardwood for free.

To go from a chipped dull edge to razor sharp takes me less than 5 minutes. I usually only grind the bevel when the hollow starts to become to small. Most of the time I can just hone the edge on the diamond stones then polish it using the stop which takes me 30-60 seconds. I've tried out systems such as waterstones, ceramic stones and the worksharp but in my opinion this is the fastest and most efficient way to sharpen. The setup cost is about $250-$270 which I think is fairly reasonable and you don't have any ongoing cost like the scarp sharp system or the worksharp. A set of quality waterstones is $200-300 alone and the power sharpeners like the tormak are quite expensive and don't really save any time.