Reddit Reddit reviews Robert Larson 800-1800 Honing Guide

We found 24 Reddit comments about Robert Larson 800-1800 Honing Guide. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Industrial & Scientific
Abrasive & Finishing Products
Laps & Hones
Abrasive Finishing Products
Robert Larson 800-1800 Honing Guide
Country Of Origin: Taiwan, Province Of ChinaModel Number: 800-1800Item Package Dimension: 5.0" L x 5.0" W x 2.0" HItem Package Weight: 1.0 lb
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24 Reddit comments about Robert Larson 800-1800 Honing Guide:

u/abnormal_human · 14 pointsr/woodworking

I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.

Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.

Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:

Hand Tools

u/anotherisanother · 6 pointsr/woodworking

If you go hand tools, you can start with Rennaissance Woodworker’s minimum tool list. You can go with a lot of vintage tools to save money, but for fun I priced out all new tools of good quality. Many tools were recommended here. I've added a workbench and some reference books and videos too.

MINIMUM TOOL LIST

$169 Jack Plane Woodriver
$125 Hand Saw backless saw ~26″ in length
$28, $30, $35 - 1/4, 3/8, and 1″ chisels Ashley Isles MK2
$79 Back Saw Veritas Crosscut Carcasse
$12 Coping Saw Olson
$18 Marking Gauge Beech Marking Guage
$12 Square IRWIN Combination
$149 Some kind of sharpening set up (stones, sandpaper, whatever) Norton Waterstone Woodworker Package

$592 Subtotal

NICE TO HAVE

$13 Honing guide Eclipse style
$13 Marking knife Veritas
$22 Mallet Thor
$15 Book to learn from Essential Woodworker Book

$63 Subtotal

WORKBENCH

$27 Workbench plans Naked Woodworker
$123 Materials for Naked Woodworker, costs from Mike Siemsen
$35 Holdfasts Gramercy

$185 Subtotal

GRAND TOTAL

$840

u/hibikikun · 4 pointsr/woodworking

I have bought both. Just save up a little longer and buy the veritas. It's a better long term investment.

That said, if you are really on a budget, realize that these honing guides are practically all copies of each other. I would not be surprised if they're made from the same factory. You can save a few bucks by buying this.
http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370329190&sr=8-1&keywords=honing+guide

after that build yourself a jig that lie nielsen suggest
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/pdf/AngleSettingJig.pdf

u/st1tchy · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Sandpaper ranging from 80 to 2000 grit and a piece of granite countertop that a local countertop maker let me dumpster dive for. I fold and tear full sheets of sandpaper into 4 strips longways (they are useful for sanding blocks this way too) and either tape them or just hold them down with my fingers and sharpen away. The blade is held by one of these guys.

u/minotaurohomunculus · 3 pointsr/woodworking

The first thing you're going to find on the internet is this fetishism of sharpening chisels. The Youtube rabbit hole on sharpening is deep.

What I found, and you might find something else you like better, is actually fairly simple, easy, and low cost to setup. 1) Scary Sharp --which is just sharpening your tools on a flat surface (glass, marble, MDF, jointer or table saw feed table) and graduating levels of taped down sandpaper: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scary_sharp. The second thing that is wildly useful is a $12 sharpening guide: http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1

There are kits for hundreds of dollars involving stones and guides and apparati and I've used some of my friends' stones and setups and they work --probably as well as Scary Sharp and a guide. But, $12 for a guide and a few dollars for sandpaper is low barrier to entry and works and is pretty fast. (The soles of hand planes may take a bit longer if you're planning to do those the same day.)

Good luck on whatever you choose.

u/TomVa · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I have been doing woodworking for upwards of 40 years. I recently bought a course DMT diamond plate

http://www.amazon.com/DMT-D8C-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond/dp/B0001WP1L0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1398809883&sr=8-3&keywords=DMT

some Norton water stones.

http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Japanese-Style-Combination-Waterstone-8-Inch/dp/B0006NFDPI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1398809928&sr=8-5&keywords=waterstone

and

http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Japanese-Style-Combination-Waterstone-8-Inch/dp/B00067ZSM2/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1398809974&sr=8-16&keywords=waterstone

Along with a sharpening guide.

http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398810023&sr=8-2&keywords=sharpening+guide

And could not be happier with the results.

The major purpose of the diamond plate is to keep the water stones flat.

Even if you go the sandpaper route make sure that you get a guide and when you get one get your bevel-T square and a protractor (from Rite Aid) to check that the distance for the stop blocks is correct.

u/arth33 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I'm no pro, but here's my suggstion.

Marking and measuring are important. Get a knife of some sort. This marking knife is cheap and well regarded. Get a combination square (lot available at all sorts of price points). For a longer straight edge, you can use extruded aluminum or angle aluminum which is cheap, lightweight, and straight enough. Then learn to create a knife edge and a handsaw (either western push style, or japanese pull style) and you can cut wood accurately to size.

You're planes will then get you to flatten and surface your boards (you can use the aluminum as winding sticks). Lots of resources available for rehabbing planes. Then the next step is joints. For this, chisels and a comfortable mallet are great (and a rabbet plane if you can find/afford one). To make life easier, a coping saw and a drill (electric or brace and bit) can clear out waste for you. It makes life easier. But the key here is keeping your planes and chisels sharp. I don't know of a budget way to do this. I've got a few Ezelap diamond stones (coarse, fine and extra fine) that I use, but there are other methods as well (sandpaper on glass, waterstones, oil stones, tormeks). But sharpening is critical to handtool woodworking happiness. You might want a sharpening guide as well. The cheap ones work great (I'm not sure why these are so expensive. I think I paid $8 for mine). Then build one of these and you're all set for sharpening. Finally, you need stuff to stick together, so glue and glue applicators are worth looking into. I also use my cabinet scrapers quite a bit, but that's just me. They're cheap so I think everyone should have one.

After that, you can spend all sorts of money on other stuff as you progress. But most anything square can be built with this setup.

u/moodsteve · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Basic Honing Guide

Fancier Honing Guide

I've used and like both. The Veritas certainly makes some things easier but you pay for that convenience. I'd probably get the basic version and see if you feel the need to upgrade. Also you'll probably need a basic one anyway to sharpen spokeshave blades.

u/coletain · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Typically you store planes either on their side or just make a little shelf with a lip at the back so that when you set it down the back of the plane is raised up a bit keeping the blade from contacting the shelf.

A simple honing guide, a combination stone, and a basic strop is all you really need to sharpen plane irons. You can use sandpaper instead of the stone if you are really on a budget, but a decent combo stone is worth having in the shop. You can spend hundreds of dollars on diamond stones, higher end waterstones, sharpening jigs, grinder wheels, etc, but with proper technique, a bit of practice, and about 10 minutes work improving the honing guide the 3 items above will get any plane iron or chisel razor sharp. Grinder is mostly used for lathe tools and to speed up major regrinding or damage repair in a wood shop.

Here's a video on how to properly sharpen a plane iron with the guide.

I like to apply paste wax to the sole and other exposed steel surfaces of my planes (and most other tools in the shop) to prevent rust. I like johnson's paste wax.

u/SoftwareMaven · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Woodworking with power tools revolves around the table saw. If you go that path, get the best one you possibly can. But used so your money goes father.

Woodworking with hand tools needs a few things:

  • A saw. A $30 Japanese saw with crosscut blade on one side and rip cut on the other is a great way to start if you aren't already an experienced sawyer. If you want to buy local, don't buy the crappy ones from Home Depot or Lowe's. You can get a good one from Woodcraft.
  • Chisels. Even the $10 six pack of chisels from Harbor Freight will work great. You have to sharpen a little more often, but it's much easier to get a keen edge.
  • A pounder. This can be a rubber mallet, a nylon mallet, or a stick. My first project was making a wooden mallet. I used a rubber mallet I already owned while making it.
  • A smoother. The best option is a bench plane (a used #4 Stanley, Record, or other pre-WWII plane is ideal; you can get fully restored planes on eBay for $75-90; you can buy a new Wood River at Woodcraft for under $150; or you can restore one (only do this if that process interests you). Stay away from new planes under $100). A secondary option is sandpaper. You will never match a plane's finish with sandpaper (literally glass-like), and some tasks, like stock removal, will be much more difficult or even impossible, but it is pretty cheap to get started.
  • A sharpener. On the cheap, you can use the "Scary Sharp" system using sandpaper and some thick glass to get started (I use a glass shelf I bought at Home Depot when I want to sharpen with sandpaper). For more money up front but less over time, you can use whetstones (water or oil) or diamond plates (I have a cheap $3 eBay-special 150 and 400 grit diamond plates to flatten my water stones and for major material removal, and I have two two-sided waterstones with 400/1000 and 4000/8000 grit for most sharpening). A $15 honing guide can make things much easier if you have coordination like me, but you probably want to spend a few minutes tweaking it to get best results.
  • Some marking/measuring tools. A marking gauge, a combination square (you will want to check and, if necessary, adjust it), a marking knife (a small pocket knife or utility knife works), and, maybe, a small tape measure. The tape measure gets used the least; most measurements are relative measurements made using the marking gauge.

    I'm a big believer in starting small and cheap and working my way up. With a few hand tools, you can get started for under $200 and have everything you need to make good quality stuff. The skills you learn with those tools will transfer to every project in the future, no matter how big. Fine joinery is the same, whether the boards are cut with a hand saw or a table saw, and you will never learn to read wood with a power jointer, planer and table saw like you will with a handsaw and bench plane.

    As you reach competency with these tools, you can decide how you want to expand your tools to achieve more. That may be more hand tools like a dovetail saw, additional planes, cabinet scrapers, etc, or it may be power tools with a table saw, band saw, dust collector, etc. Or it may be somewhere in the middle.

    Personally, I do this for relaxation, so a quiet shop and a face free of respirators and face shields is much better to me. Since I am in no hurry to finish projects, I use primarily hands tools (I have a few power tools from a previous life that I'll pull out on very rare occasions. I think often about selling them).

    If getting stuff done drives you, though, power tools are a great way to do that. It changes woodworking a little because it becomes a skill of setting machines up correctly (not a trivial skill!) to get the correct cut.

    The Wood Whisperer, who coined the phrase and, literally, wrote the book, Hybrid Woodworking, does a pretty good job blending hand and power tools. If I cared more about getting things done (and had the space and money to devote to it), that would be the path I would follow.
u/fashionbrahh · 2 pointsr/woodworking

an hr?? jesus that sounds like hell. I'm not sure how you are sharpening the blades but my 3 side arkansas with a honing guide can get me some nice shavings in a few minutes.

http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395892808&sr=8-1&keywords=chisel+sharpening+guide

but yes, one day I will splurge for a Norton!

u/Ellistann · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I don't mean a sharpening system like a buy this one this to sharpen your stuff like folks have for their kitchen knives.

I meant a method you have to keep your stuff sharp.

I started out using the 'scary sharp' sharpening method.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scary_sharp

Used a $3 tile from Home Depot and a set of sandpaper similar to this and used a honing guide like this one and then used Paul sellers techniques in this YouTube video

Also watch this Paul sellers video on preparing your chisels .

Scary sharp is great for beginner, and those that have little sharpening to do. The advantage and disadvantage is that you use up the sandpaper doing the sharpening. So the initial cost is low, but you need to keep paying for more it as your sandpaper supply runs out.

I lucked out and found a friend of a friend who gave me a pair of a course/fine combination oilstone similar to this. So I got a leather pad and stropping compound and then continued to use the honing guide and was very pleased with this result.

Now I'm pushing money towards getting a set of DMT diamond plates You want a course, fine, and extra fine. And lastly you want a 4000/8000 norton water stone.

This is what I meant by upgrading your sharpening system. All of these are options, and depending on your budget and needs, they can all work. Some advocate the buy once cry once mentality and just buy the last setup i talked about, but my progression has served me well enough that my shoestring budget allowed for continual progress, and also gave me the opportunity to cut my losses if I didn't use my chisels and planes as much as I do.

Hope this helps.

u/AsrockX370Taichi · 1 pointr/woodworking

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CFNCKS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I doubt it is a pressure issue. It's always off on the same side, and I even tried to favor the long side, and it was still cutting mostly on that one side.

u/kirbydanger · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have one of those fairly honing cheap guides-

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CFNCKS/

I am tempted to get the Veritas guide, but I really don't want to drop another $140 on stuff right now. The ability to do the cambered edges and easily add microbevels seems valuable, though, over what this cheap guide offers.

u/TomMelee · 1 pointr/woodworking

I recently bought this one for my very first plane (A Stanley #5 Sweetheart, woot!), and use it with a waterstone. It's very nice, except that my waterstone is exactly the same width as my blade.

I found a video...somewhere...about using this on the cut side and then using a very thin metal ruler as a stop for a very find back bevel, works great.

I still need to finish reprofiling my blade though, for which I'll probably use the sandpaper method.

u/Jewishjay · 1 pointr/woodworking

Yea, same idea. If you hone the edge correctly, you'll almost never have to completely regrind it. I like this little thing to hold the chisel at the correct angle, but you can certainly do it by hand.

u/PyratWC · 1 pointr/woodworking

Is this the honing guide you are referring to? How high of a grit on sandpaper do you need to go? I have not been able to find a higher grit than 400. And what is the winded for?

Edit: how many of those questions are answered in Paul sellers video? I have not watched yet.

u/rk5n · 1 pointr/DIY

I have this. I've only every used it for plane irons so I can't agree or disagree with the reviews about how it sucks for chisels. I like it for plane irons though.

u/choochy · 1 pointr/woodworking

The cheapest way to get a super sharp edge is wet/dry sandpaper on glass with a honing guide.

u/commodore_nate · 1 pointr/woodworking

The bottom budget (or lowest you could go without blaming your sharpening equipment for failure) would be a Norton combination India stone or King combination water stone, plus some honing compound and a scrap of denim or leather glued to a block of wood for a strop.

Use a honing guide like this if you aren't comfortable trying free hand.

A tool is sharp when two surfaces (the back/face and bevel) meet at a sharp corner with ~0 radius. The edge is honed/refined on finer and finer stones to get a better surface finish and better edge retention.

Here are some tutorials with and without a honing guide. I recommend watching both, because each covers a different aspect of initial chisel prep.

On top of your sharpening equipment, work from both sides and use knife lines to prevent blow out.

u/zendawg · 1 pointr/woodworking

I bought a buck Bros from HF for $10 and it actually works pretty good after flattening and sharpening. On the same day I went to a few pawn shops and got a No.4 and a 78 for $30 each. I recently got a 45 off of ebay for $45 and 12 cutters off of craigslist for $35. I suggest the re conditioning route. You need to be able to take it apart and put it back together in order to really see how it works. IMO.

I am a newb too but if you are going to get into this hobby with hand tools you are going to have to learn to hone and sharpen your chisels and irons. Most planes and chisels are not sharpened and or flattened. I have Wood River chisels (Wood Craft) and they are pretty flat but sharp, not at all.

I suggest getting a cheap honing guide off of amazon. I got this one. http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398874279&sr=8-1&keywords=honing+guide and one of these to verify your angle. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-Plastic-Protractor-Angle-Finder-2791/202035328

As for sharpening I am doing the "Scary Sharp" Method and it works well. You can either DIY it or you can buy the pre made kit from Rockler.

u/88bcdev · 1 pointr/woodworking

Did you mean to post a picture of the saw?

A rubber mallet is no good for chopping mortises (all of the energy is lost to recoil). You'll want to get a wooden chisel mallet or a dead blow mallet.

You will have to sharpen your chisels. There are different methods to sharpen a chisel. You won't ever find a consensus on which way is best. If you want a cheap way to start, google "scary sharp". You'll use sandpaper and a flat surface like a piece of granite or plate glass. It works just as well as any other method, but it's not a long term solution. I use diamond whetstones and a leather strop with buffing compound to sharpen. You can buy a jig (like this one https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468777145&sr=8-1) to help you sharpen the chisel or freehand sharpen. You may want to buy a protractor gauge to check your angle, which should be around 30 degrees. You can find many Youtube tutorials on this. Paul Sellers is a popular teacher of freehand chisel sharpening.



u/sscall · 1 pointr/woodworking

So I also own a few planes. I tried freehand sharpening on a stone and got good results, but I could never get that "sharp enough to shave your arm hair", I could get a few strands but not enough. THen I bought the honing guide (https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472754117&sr=8-3&keywords=plane+iron+jig). This bad boy gets the blade sharp, then you use the "scary sharp" method by wetsanding with very fine grit sand paper glued to a tile. Now I can take an entire patch of hair off with a single slide of the blade on my arm.