Reddit reviews Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery

Ok, I'll be the first.. Obviously you need to devote a large amount of your training to learning skill and technique. The new-ish John Kettle book is mentioned regularly on this sub and I can vouch for it—it's a no-nonsense list of highly effective technique drills and accompanying videos. Kris Hampton of the Power Company climbing has a series of movement skill youtube videos. Practice practice practice. Try and find someone with better skills that you can climb with and learn from. You have a head start with your strength, now you've gotta relax that grip and learn how to use your feet and hips and engage body tension.

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As far as synovitis goes, that sucks. There's advice on this sub which you can search for. Crimp avoidance is almost mandatory, taping can help, as can finger curls for some ppl. Progressive loading on the hangboard is a good idea.

Hi. I highly recommend you to check out "Rook Climbing Technique". It covers skill exercises to do during your warm up (or throughout your session) to develop precisely what you're asking. The book comes with a YouTube channel with examples on how to correctly do each exercise.

You could also consider Xian. https://www.xiangoh.com/


I haven't had a session with her but if I paid for coaching again in London I think it would be with her. Friends have had sessions with her learned tonnes.

I've had sessions with Louis and a number of the other Catalyst team and honestly the quality of the coaching really varies. Louis is great, I've climbed with him in London and on a week long trip to Sardinia, and I got some great insights from him both times. You could probably learn a bit from him. I was much more beginner when I went to him (around 1 year climbing at the time). But the real benefit from climbing is going to be regular exposure to the coach so you can continue to work on your weakpoints.


Also buy and read John Kettle's book. It's the best written resource on climbing technique I've found. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rock-Climbing-Technique-Practical-Movement/dp/1999654404

You get punished for all those things while bouldering, it just doesn't stand out because you're still posting numbers impressive for a newer climber.

Rock Climbing Technique is a great book. Spend some time with it and share time doing video analysis with friends and you may find yourself jumping even further up the chain.

Thanks for the Kind words. Been only climbing for about 2 1/2 years. I am pretty sure you will get some v6s done in the future aswell :)

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edit: watched some of the videos you posted. You seem to be pretty strong but i assume you just started climbing recently?


I recommend you buy this book from john kettle "Rock climbing technique"
https://www.amazon.de/Rock-Climbing-Technique-Practical-Movement/dp/1999654404/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1BK1T74RFEGBP&keywords=rock+climbing+technique+the+practical+guide+to+movement+mastery&qid=1563630779&s=gateway&sprefix=rock+climbing+tech%2Caps%2C1120&sr=8-1


spend some time on climbing problems as efficient as possible and get down every move super clean. don´t rush it. be aware of every foot and hand position and try to make every move as perfect and stable as possible. bouldering is not speed climbing :)

You gotta learn how to position your body so that you can drive your hips into the wall. Pulling power at this point is going to make you learn how to climb far worse and much less efficient. Our limit in climbing comes back to fingers, whether it's pumping out on sport routes or crimping 4mm micro edges on a boulder, the less strain you have to put on your hands for a given move the more likely you are to complete the route/problem. Learn how to do everything you can through your body positioning and core tension.

For reference the last time I checked pull ups I did 8 narrow and 7 with a wide grip and I can climb significantly higher grades. Your pull strength isn't the weakness, it's technique.

I'd recommend picking this up and going through the drills: https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Technique-Practical-Movement/dp/1999654404