Reddit reviews Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier,BLACK

I'm not an expert but Rockford fosgate amps have work well for me. Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eZIZDbPG15DB6

500watts for about 130 USD

$500 nets you an entry level system, even less if you're not installing yourself. My suggestion is to get a new radio + sub + amp. A new single din radio with usb option runs $80-130 depending on the brand (pioneer and kenwood are my favorites). A new radio with EQ adjustment should allow you to tune your stock system to where the highs arent nearly as harsh. The next thing is a subwoofer (plus the enclosure) and the amp (plus the wiring). Lets start small with an 8" sub in a ported box. An alpine type r 8" is around $100 and a ported box to go with it like this is $70. An amp to power the sub adequately could be a rockford prime monoblock which runs close to $130. An an amp kit to wrap it all up could be the Soundqubed CCA 1/0 amp kit for $60.

Total so far is $490 on equipment, and that isn't including the dash kit and wire harness for your car (which im completely guessing is anywhere from $60-100).

It's a P3D4-10 hooked up to a R500X1D. I was on the fence about getting an LC7i and getting a full new system but went with just the sub and everything else factory. I installed it using the high-level signal and it sound is amazing. Non-fender stock system is fine it just needed a little bit of a bass and a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure did the trick. Also saves on space.

This is a great amp for the price, then if you want to get another sub in the future you will have the extra power on hand
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495122194&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=300x2+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51m3QK2fvWL&ref=plSrch

My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.

Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vlp1CbJTXJETX

Rockford Fosgate Prime 750 Watt Class D 1 channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T166L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7lp1CbQXKYYXD

I believe you can get better quality for not much more. Look at a Dayton audio or image dynamics 12” sub something in the $100 range that has dual 4 ohm voice coil.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315ho-44-12-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-467

Possibly a pioneer or Rockford amp. Maybe: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SkF0AbH0KCQBR
Then get a prefab sealed box. Sonic has them for about $40 and then an amp install kit from knuconceptz or piece your own together using welding cable for the power and ground.

Should run you under $350 and last longer, take less space and outperform that system you asked about.

Oh. You are going to need a line level converter in order to tie into your stock system.


I don’t know why you are down voted. You asked an honest question...

8 ohm is not so much special as it is uncommon in car audio. your home speakers are going to be around 8ohm but most car audio subs are 2ohm or 4ohm. so here is a very cheap but good car audio amp: http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1406508052&sr=1-4

this amp will do 300W at 4 ohm or 500W at 2 ohm. at your 8 ohm speaker this amp will do around the 150W range at best. so your sub is rated at up to 500W. this amp will run this sub for now and if you ever want to upgrade in the future you will have 500W at 2ohm to play with.

if an amp can produce 1,000W on a 1ohm speaker if you hook a 2ohm speaker to it that amp will then produce around 500W. if you attach a 4ohm speaker to it that amp can then produce 250W of power to that sub. if you hook your 8ohm sub to it that same 1KW amp can dish out around 125W of power to that sub. roughly

Here you go, Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_zvZ.tb0TXQNX6

You want an amp that can deliver 500W RMS of power at 2 ohms. Like this Rockford Fosgate R500X1D.

And here's a good 4 gauge wiring kit.

here ya go!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00YQ674D0&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1ZCHPV8EK9A6VJT7C757

Would probably also do the job

Thanks for the advice it was helpful. These are my speakers, my 4 channel amp, my one channel amp, and I'm going to install a 12" kicker subwoofer in a factory box.

I have these Rockfords, with this amp. I love it, no complaints.

I'm unfamiliar with those ones. If you take one out and take a picture of the back with the magnet, it should have a model number and impedance. We can go from there. Otherwise I'd say something like a Rockford R500-1. Can't know for sure, though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=aw_d_img_back_car?qid=1370818771&sr=8-2

Don't believe any of amazon's specs on this, it's 500w at 2ohm and 250w at 4ohm according to Rockford's website.

Also, if all you want is Aux and sub pre outs on the radio, get a Pioneer DEH-150MP. $60 at Best buy.

If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc

amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit

This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these

$500 or under will be nearly impossible for a system with a headunit with built in navigation unless you go with used gear.

This is what I'd go with on a budget of $1,000.

Headunit $650

Box $135

Sub $73

Amp $115

Total is $973. It should end up a little over $1,000 after you buy your wiring harness and wiring kit, and I'm not sure if you need an expensive dash kit for that car. The new headunit should improve the sound of your stock speakers by giving you a lot more eq options so you can shape the sound to your liking. I added the sub because bass is usually what causes distortion in stock speakers, so with a sub you can change your crossovers on your headunit so your speakers only play your mids and highs and the sub handles your lows, which should also help to clean up the sound.

If you're not set on navigation though I'd suggest you get a different headunit. You can get a unit with comparable features minus navigation for half the price. I normally listen to my music from my phone with bluetooth and google maps just plays through the speakers telling me where to turn. Works really well for me since my unit doesn't have nav.

Lets talk some talk.

Good

Better

Best

Going with "Good" you're looking at a simple subwoofer upgrade.
You're going to need about 500+ Watts RMS to overcome your back seat. Then You're looking at a ported box with maybe a 12" or 2-12" subs that can each handle good power. Lets go with amazon's stuff and a Single 12" for good measure.

The Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 @ $130
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-12-1200-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050827&sr=8-1&keywords=Rockford+fosgate+p3

An Atrend Box the 12SQV $65 http://www.amazon.com/Single-Vented-Square-Box-Enclosure/dp/B0007XV5G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050938&sr=8-1&keywords=12sqv

The Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime Amp @ $120
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051007&sr=8-1&keywords=r500x1d

A REAL COPPER 5 Ga Wire Kit: XD-ACS60 $58 http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-XD-ACS60-Amplifier-Connection/dp/B0041MU7B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051265&sr=8-1&keywords=xd-acs60

A PROPER Line Out Converter LC2i $68
http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-2-Channel-Converter-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B01EDFPNSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051367&sr=8-1&keywords=LC2i

So, This is the MINIMUM for just adding one sub, Without going with the crap out there.

You are currently at $441 of your $800 Budget Limit.

Lets calculate installation.

1. Amplifier Installation: $120
   
2. Line Out Converter Installation: $72
   
3. Load/Wire Subwoofer into Box: $24
   
4. Disable ANC: $48
   
   Labor is going to be around $264
   
   Labor + Parts = $705
   
   I have no idea how to make your car better with $95 except maybe put some sound deadening in your trunk.
   
   Keep in mind, these prices are at AMAZON's.... Not retail.
   
   $700-800 Sounds like a lot, until you realize that GOOD Labor isn't cheap.
   
   If you think that's expensive, Go ask your dealership how much it costs to replace your alternator... JUST your alternator.
   
   
   

So quick question, I'm still learning all the math behind car audio and want to make sure I understand what amp I need to get. If I got an amp like this and wired it according to Rockfords website, on the 4Ohm P3 it would get 500W?

600 watt RMS amplifiers aren't as common, so they're usually a bit more expensive. The sweet spot for amplifiers in term of prices is 500 watts RMS (for entry level systems), so you'll be able to use your system at its loudest without worrying about frying your subwoofers, but your amplifier will run hot, since it will be at full power most of the time. Usually reputable amplifiers will be able to handle it though.

Here are two suggestions for 500 watts RMS:

Alpine MRV-M500

Rockford Fosgate R500X1D

Most people would rather overcompensate when it comes to the amplifier, so alternatively you could step down the power of the subs and go with two of these, and run your amplifier much cooler with the gain turned down a bit, which will prolong its life.

Basically it comes down these 3 options:

• Running a cheap amplifier hot while getting the same subs
  
• Running a cheap amplifier cool while changing subs and lowering power slightly
  
• Running an expensive amplifier optimally while getting the same subs
  
  Personally, I had the WXv2 subwoofers for 4 years, and they worked great. Plus, they're meant for sealed enclosures, and the W0v3s are meant for ported enclosures. Ultimately, it's your choice though! Hope I was of some help, and enjoy the system!

Parts list:
Woofa
Amp
ANL Fuse Holder
Ground Terminal
8AWG wire
Carpet

Combined with some wire I had on hand for the speaker and 12v connections - I like southwire for price/performance.
All connections crimped, soldered, and marine heatshrinked.
I tapped into an open KOEO fuse on the trunk's fusebox for the amp remote line. Unfortunately this means the sub turns on and off with the key, not the headunit, but I'm fine with that.
Wired the voice coils in parallel to end up with a 2ohm load.
Box internal volume is 10.5"x12"x18" - about 1.3 cubic feet. Image Dynamics recommends 1 cu. ft. in a sealed box, but 1.8 cu.ft. for "audiophiles" in a sealed box. I'm assuming that the audiophile in this case just means if we're going for only sq and not spl? I split the difference to end up with 1.3 cu. ft.
Running at 500w RMS it's pretty dang solid. Actually got off my butt and set the gain with a meter and 50Hz tone and not just by ear like I usually do.
My big challenge is that I need to figure out how to adjust or bypass the stock sub crossover from the OEM headunit/gateway. It's way too low, and I have a big ~40Hz hole in my bass. If anyone has insight as to how that works on the w211 Harmon Kardon system I'll be in your debt. Haven't dug into it yet.

hey, quick question. I'm looking at buying this subwoofer and amp. Would it work?

Here's what I ended up ordering, and I'm getting this installed by a local shop, so I'll buy the dash kit and sub wiring from them. They will also be building a custom box for the sub.

Sub: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch 4 SVC (single sub)

Amp: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier

Front speakers: Polk DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component

Rear Speakers: Polk DB401 4-Inch Coaxial

Head Unit: Pioneer DEHX6600BT

I wanted to give an update.

• ROCKFORD FOSGATE 500x1
  
  
• 2 pairs of these speakers [KICKER 6.5" CS65]
  (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cs65-6-1-2-coaxial-speakers-with-polypropylene-woofer-cones-pair-black/7708042.p?skuId=7708042)
  
  
• KICKER COMPS 10" SUB 4OHM
  
  
• 4 GA WIRING KIT
  
  
• PAC THING TO NOT HAVE TO SPLICE
  
  I'll be running the stock radio so I'm assuming everything installation related should be pretty self explanatory.
  
  Am I missing anything?

Alright so I've got KnuKonceptz wire now, but will THIS work with THIS?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile


It's 125. I think it was cheaper before. .. great deal still

Hmmm...

Yea I was considering my options and I could get a single 600W RMS P3 12" (with nice ported box) for $179. Or I could get two P1 12" that are rated at 500W total RMS for $220-ish.

The first sub I'd never really be able to push to it's full potential with the amp I want. The Fosgate R500X1D is a sweet little amp for $120 bucks. It's rated at 500W RMS, but the certification sheet that comes with most of them is bench-rating them at 620-640 RMS. Now, I'd never want to push it more than 520W both for my cars sake, and for the amps sake, so the first single 600W sub option would never really be used to it's full potential.

The dual P1's I could probably make better use of that 520W was my thinking. 80W might make all the difference on that P3... I wish I could test both XD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_107_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HRA3CZA6SSS9VXANAW8V

I agree with the other commenter, don't go with that one. The good amps are CEA-2006 rated for the power they advertise. Other amps may say they can put out a certain power but it may not be true.

​

This link is for a Rockford Fosgate (name brand) amp that puts out 300W+ RMS at 4 ohms. I have a RF 1200 watt amp and its birth sheet said it really is capable of 1250W of clean RMS power. If you get this one, it will have something similar, it may be certified for 520W (@ 2 ohms) or something, which would be over 300W RMS for 4 ohms.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67758_Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R500X1D.html

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=car+audio+amplifier&qid=1555008509&s=gateway&sr=8-6

​

This amp is Alpine, good brand, I've owned one in the past, but allows speaker level inputs if you need to do that.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76304_Alpine-MRV-M500.html

This one is a Kenwood amp that also puts out 300W RMS, but it costs more than the RF and Alpine ones above

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_69691_Kenwood-KAC-5001PS.html

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE

This the one?

I got the Prime 500x1 and it’s pretty solid. Good sound and the spec sheet say it’s pushing over 600 watts. Seems like a good value for about $130...


Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NgG3Db1MM47Y2

Yep, if you want to stick to Rockford try this.

What's the RMS power of the JL sub? I would recommend this for the speakers and this for the sub. Rockford tends to underrate their amps so you would be getting quite a bit more power than what they're rated at and you can't beat it for the money.

So the amp will be seeing 2 ohms?

This will work well.

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R168X2-Coaxial-Speaker/dp/B00BF6HVGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414640639&sr=8-2&keywords=6+x+8

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-ev2-15-subwoofer-e15v2-500w-e-series.html

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-RFK4X-Complete-Amplifier/dp/B0012BYOSK/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414640972&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=rockford+fosgate+4+guage+kit

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Single-15-Inch-Unloaded-Box/dp/B00BIFWGTO/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1414640830&sr=8-10&keywords=15+inch+sub+box#productDetails

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1414640957&sr=1-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+amplifier

Find an amp that does 300 watts at 4 ohms and you're good. A few examples: Rockford Alpine Rockville

For your sub amp, I recommend a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D or something similar in the 500 watt RMS range. You could go a little bigger for the amp but those subs are only rated at 250 watts each. The 1200 watt rating is a marketing ploy.

Are you only looking to upgrade your mids and not highs? I strongly recommend going with a component set like the Morel Maximo 6's. I'm assuming you want a set of mids for the back doors? If so you could get the coax version of those Morel Speakers for the rear doors.

As far as headunits go, pick something from a big name brand (Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood etc.) that fits your connectivity requirements(bluetooth? CDs? USB?) and has RCA outputs for at least 4 channels(front and sub) preferably 6(front, rear, and sub).

Do you have your wiring figured out? If not, make sure you factor the cost of wiring into your budget. Looking at about $100 - $150 for wiring depending on brands/size.

Edit: Keep in mind that while purchasing products from Amazon is cheaper, it will not usually get you a warranty so if stuff breaks or doesn't work out of the box, Rockford Fosgate or whoever the Manufacturer is most likely won't cover it or fix it.

Don’t listen to him.... save an extra $50 and get a Rockford Prime amp.

It’ll do rated power and won’t start a fire.

I'm so sorry for bugging you but should I send back the fosgate amp for the one you linked? Or will it not matter much or at all with those daytons. Just wondering since the fosgate was 30 dollars more than the one you linked, what the difference would be between the amps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D7vnzbTTEKNZR

You mentioned you had a blueprint, is that a universal one that a craftsmen could use that would provide the best output or is it only for a specific spec/size?

Will check out those components, thanks.
To add onto this component, I saw these Polks on amazon for a good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497924801&sr=8-1&keywords=POlk+DB+6501

Would these work with the Alpine amplifier?.. i'm assuming they'd work with the one you suggested. Also, I was told (idk if this is bullshit or not) that when you are running two amplifiers, you want to have them be the same brand... is there any truth to this? Not that it's necessary, but preferred.

I somewhat have a hunch that this place has some deal/discount with Alpine which is why they suggest their products so much.


ALSO is this the rockford amp you are suggesting? --- would get this one if the amplifiers matching thing is bs

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497925174&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+500.1+amplifier

Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0

is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP

these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY

And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR

Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4

I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me

Go D-series. Sound quality/range is worth the price. I just upgraded from an 1100 Boss Monoblock to this Rockford Fosgate amp: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539818799&sr=8-4&keywords=rockford+fosgate+d+amp and couldn't be happier. I'm only powering one 10" sub, but unless you're trying to wake up the neighbors it should suffice.

Edit: If you aren't planning to shell out for a nicer amp, just keep the one you have. I ran my Boss 1100 for about a year powering 2 Kicker 10" subs (same setup you have there) with no issues, and it could go LOUD. Run it, see how it sounds.

RF R500X1D Prime is as cheap as I could find new that won't be dying again in a few months. Getting cheaper than that I would recommend buying used.

Actual Power output is one. That Boss says 1100 watts on it, but I remember someone (Steve Meade?) put it on the amp dyno and it really only put out ~250 watts. Boss over-inflates their numbers.

Sure you can get the kicker set you linked, they are some of kickers lower line, each sub only rated for 250 watts RMS. For two 15s in a box, you get what you pay for.

For those kickers, I would recommend this amp https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524364575&sr=1-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+r500x1d

Its a bit more in price than the boss, but relativity cheap when it comes to good, reputable amps.

I thought I had hyperlinked the equip names to amazon links in the OP i missed the RF amp I guess. I think my plan is gonna be rather than build the p2 a ported box, since I already have someone waiting to buy it, i'll go ahead and either sell it with the RF amp and just get to work on figuring out this whole new "ported" thing (i've built 5 or 6 sealed boxes for myself and others, never looked into the science of building ported boxes much. i know I've got some reading to do) start on the new box and rewiring, buy the dayton (from what you wrote and what've i've found comparing them I can't justify the price difference with the IDQ12) and something like that NVX after I look around a bit more at amps.

The other option is selling him the p2 in the box, and using the R500X1D to drive the dayton - the driver is rated at 700rms and the birth sheet on this amp said 684 watts so I'm sure it can push it well enough until I can put aside enough play money for a bigger amp.

I bought a Rockford P1-1x12 ported prefab sub with a Rockford R1500X1D amp. The sub is 4 ohms and will run 300W on that amp. Both are about $300 together and will add some decent bump without straining your ears or electrical system.

If you want sightly less bump, they have a 10 inch version as well. If you want more bump, they also have dual sub prefabs, but those might require a bigger amp.

As for the hassle of an active/powered sub, it's not much different to install one with an amp vs without. You still have to run wires and plug them into the right spots. The only difference is the external amp just needs to be attached to either the enclosure or somewhere else and then the wires ran from the amp to the enclosure terminals, which is really easy.

I don't advise you use either of those amps. If you can spend ~150, get the Rockford R500x1d. I have the R500-1D and it is one of the better amps I've had. Also, the Boss amp being a Class A/B, would do all typesof wonders on your electrical

No experience with their speakers, but I like their head units. Better sound quality than Pioneer and Kenwood at their respective price points, just without some of the stupid useless features (looking at you, Pioneer). Their amplifiers are good as well, but they're a bit overpriced (Rockford Fosgate is my go-to brand for amps).

Rockford Fosgate offers a 500 watt (RMS, not peak) Class-D amp for under $150 on Amazon. I push a sealed 12 with it in my Explorer. Plenty of bass, for me at least. And it's clean. Link

I haven't actually bought a LOC yet, going to in the next couple days, just pulling some of the wire into the vehicle, and mounting the amp. Still wanting on the sub to arrive.

Also, I'd prefer not to have to pull the head unit either, becomes much more of a pain in the ass. If I can just tap off one, or 2 rear speakers that would be ideal. I just don't know much about it.

EDIT: Another reason i had not bought a LOC yet, is my Amp has a jack where you can input High Level Inputs from my speakers. Although someone had suggested getting a LOC.. Is that really necessary, if one is basically built in?
Heres the amp
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pe_386430_195257150_TE_dp_1

I've read about that auto leveling, it didn't seem to save the stock sub lol. (Though I think it blew when I was in an accident and got hit right in the driver-side rear.. they told me it was because I had the punch maxed out) Also, I don't really need it to go loud, so the stock sub was never a problem; I barely put it over 20-25 and it's loud enough for me and the wife.

I was looking at amps and it seems like they are around $150-250, but I would have no clue which one to get, that wouldn't blow all the speakers/be enough to power the sub. Any suggestions? I have wire schematics for taking apart the connectors going to the stock amp, so I wouldn't be opposed to just doing an in-place upgrade if I can for this price range.

And, looking at cheaper amps just for the sub, couldn't I get one of these two? Again, I know nothing, but I feel like I could use the existing wiring from the head to the amp by cutting the sub wires out of the connectors on the stock amp and connecting them to the output wires that run to the sub. Then I can cut the connector off in the trunk, put those 4 wires into a high level connector for whichever amp, and then run power separately. Then, with the sub amp in the trunk, I can run wires from it to the sub in whatever form necessary (IE, the BOSS one below gives 600w when bridged, so I would literally wire it as I am now)

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1512081314&sr=1-8&keywords=subwoofer%2Bamplifier&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-R1002-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNKI/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1512081314&sr=1-16&keywords=subwoofer%2Bamplifier&th=1


Is my thought process in the right direction, or am I way out in left field?


EDIT: Also, couldn't I use an LC2iB in the trunk to hook up another amp to the pre-existing wiring without bypassing the stock amp? They seem to be about $90, and if I can get an amp specifically for the sub for $50-60, I'd be okay with the $150 range

This is the most expensive e-series, but I think they're 15 in? So maybe I should go with the 12 inch one here? and for the amp you think I should get this?

Final thoughts on everything? I'll be putting them in a 1998 camry and presumably paying you to design me a box

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: this


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|




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Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.

Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.

Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:

Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1468928854&sr=8-48&keywords=3+channel+amplifier

Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929161&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=sundown+e12+d2

Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468929607&sr=1-10&keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box

Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit

Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.

The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.

Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.

Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.

Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line

Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.

If you wanna go cheaper, I've heard great things about the Rockford Fosgate Punch 500w and plan to get it. For $120 it seems pretty great. The 750w version was clamped and did over 1000w, I've heard these are usually birthed around 650w.