Reddit reviews Sandpaper, Premium Wet Dry Waterproof Sand Paper, 45PCS 120 to 5000 Assorted Grit Sanding Paper for Wood Furniture Finishing, Metal Sanding and Automotive Polishing, 9 x 3.6 Inches.
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【MEETS ALL YOUR NEEDS】KEAMA high grit sand paper set contains 45pcs wet dry sand paper assortment in grit 120, 150, 180, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 5000, 3 sheets of each grit. Variety of sandpaper grit can meet most of your daily usage.【PREMIUM QUALITY SAND PAPER】Sanding paper sheets are made from waterproof silicon carbide and are electro coated so it will not fall apart, tear off or crumble off whenever you use it.【PERFECT FOR WET OR DRY USING】Waterproof and tensile resistant technology enables these abrasive paper sheets sturdy and lasts for a long time using in your projects, and they can be used for both wet and dry purposes.【PERFECT SIZE AND EASY TO IDENTIFY】All the sand papers are in 9 x 3.6 inches, you also can cut it into any size as you need. The soft-back sand paper ensures a good hold by your hand and you can use it to polish the objects smoothly with only moderate effort, with high resistance to slip or loose during usage. The grits spec is printed on the back of the sandpapers for easy identification.【MULTIFUNCTIONAL】 The sand Papers are suitable for usage in art and craft, wood, automotive, metal, and plastic applications for buffing and polishing.
My PC:
I built this PC back in 2017 and the CPU temps have been terrible since day 1.
With my daily driver overclock of 4.8 Ghz, 100% utilization for more than 10 minutes would push CPU temps into the mid 90's. Heavy gaming (~50% utilization) would regularly cause temps in the upper 70's or low 80's.
After browsing around here and Youtube I found that the problem was likely Intel's thermal paste under the IHS, so for just over $30 I bought:
I then delidded my CPU, spent over an hour sanding down my IHS, then applied liquid metal under the IHS and Artic MX-4 above (which I had laying around). I chose not to re-seal the IHS after reading some comments here.
Now my CPU temps idle in the 30's, stay in the 40's while gaming and rarely ever hit the 50's.
For CPU temps to break into the 60's, I have to run 100% utilization for over 15 minutes (as shown), which doesn't even happen in my day-to-day use.
So pretty happy overall.
There is always an unanodized option
Here's what I sent to the couple of PMs I got asking similar questions...
I ordered these from Amazon:
Dupli-Color BFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Automotive Paint - 8 oz. Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00407TU5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4DxwDbP62JVFE
Sandpaper, Premium Wet Dry Waterproof Sand Paper, 45PCS 120 to 5000 Assorted Grit Sanding Paper for Wood Furniture Finishing, Metal Sanding and Automotive Polishing, 9 x 3.6 Inches. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KV3VX97/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NHxwDb65VSTCX
From there I started off using a 1/4 piece of one of the 240 grit pieces of sandpaper and spent about 5 minutes sanding off all the jagged edges of the curb rash. (Side note for your question: Pressure was about what you'd use with a scrubby sponge to get some stuck on food off a plate for all the sandpaper sheets, regardless of grit.)
Next I tore off a similar sized piece of 400 grit sandpaper and spent another 5 minutes sanding it down further to smooth out some of the larger damaged area into smaller issues.
Repeat another 5 minutes with 600 grit. Then 5 minutes with 1000, and finally 5 minutes with 1500.
Once you are done the damaged area should be shiny bare metal that should feel smooth to a light touch with your finger. (And leveling out the area is not really a problem. As bad as curb rash looks, it's mostly just jagged metal sticking up that gets sanded off. It's really not that deep that you end up with valleys and craters once you are done sanding. Technically, yes, the rim is "thinner" where you sanded, but it's a fraction of a millimeter so, and not really visible to the eye unless you get down real close and look for it.)
Next I cleaned it all off using nothing more than some Windex and a soft rag.
I then used a new small piece of 600 grit and lightly went over the whole area to make some tiny rough areas to help the paint stick to the metal better, and wiped clean the dust.
I then taped the tire and undamaged area of the rim to keep the paint off those parts, and sprayed on the paint using the instructions on the can. (Three light coats 10 minutes apart)
That's pretty much it. Someone else mentioned clear coat but I didn't use it. I though the result I got was pretty dead-on and didn't want to risk a clear coat make it look off or too shiny, then have to do the rest of the wheel to make it uniform - which would have made me then have to do the other three tires in clear coat to make them match as well. But if I down the road I change my mind, adding clear coat is as easy as the painting.
Anyway, it's time and labor intensive, but it's easy. Good luck!