Reddit Reddit reviews SE Helping Hand with Magnifying Glass - MZ101B

We found 77 Reddit comments about SE Helping Hand with Magnifying Glass - MZ101B. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Health & Personal Care
Medical Supplies & Equipment
Visual Impairment Aids
Magnifiers
Mobility & Daily Living Aids
SE Helping Hand with Magnifying Glass - MZ101B
Built-in magnifying glass (4x) aids in minute detail work12 diopter2 alligator clips on 4-way swivels—holds items securely (leaving hands free)Heavy-duty base for stabilityGreat for electricians, hobbyists, jewelers, and users who work with solder or small details
Check price on Amazon

77 Reddit comments about SE Helping Hand with Magnifying Glass - MZ101B:

u/prince_of_tacoma · 19 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

62 is really thick if you're soldering PCBs/components. I guess if you're just soldering wire to wire or wire to connector, 62 would be fine. I have a roll of 62 and 31. I mostly use the 62 to tin.

Also, use a sponge. Don't just go around flicking your excess solder/flux. It is, of course, very hot. I burned myself a few weeks ago and the wound is just now almost healed.

I got that exact third hand thing on Amazon for like 6 bucks here. It makes soldering significantly easier (most of the time). It even has a magnifying glass arm for PCB soldering.

u/panascope · 8 pointsr/Warhammer40k

>brushes

If you use GW brushes, get the Standard, Fine Detail, and Wash brushes. These give you a good starting point for most of the stuff you'll be doing. Otherwise you'll want to find similar brushes in other ranges (Windsor & Newton make good brushes). If you go with third-party brushes I think the sizes you'll want are 1, 0, & 3/0.

>mats,

You can get any sort of sewing mat, where it's basically just a piece of rubber you lay on the table. Joann's Fabrics or any sort of sewing store should have this. Here's one I found on Amazon.

>thinners

The paint you're working with is water based, so water will work as a thinner. If you decide to airbrush things that will change what you need but for now, build a wet palette.

>cutters

Try these

>etc

You'll need some glue at the very least. You might also want some helping hands to hold things while you paint them/glue them together.

>is there a site that tells you what colours you need to paint certain colour styles?

I'm not aware of any one site as a catch-all for painting any scheme, but googling things led me to this site that goes into detail about painting Space Wolves. You could also consider this video from Games Workshop where they go through the steps of painting the model.

As for the paints themselves, I'd recommend working with the Vallejo Game Color paint range. They come pre-thinned (extremely helpful for new painters) and convert to Games Workshop colors pretty easily.

Some more hobby stuff to help you get started:

Zenithal Priming

Airbrushing

Object Source Lighting

u/pianogamer005 · 7 pointsr/snes

To give you a more detailed answer, here's what you'll need:

  • A soldering iron, like this one

  • CR2032 battery holders (I've used [these] (https://m.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Plastic-CR2032-CR2025-Cell-Button-Lithium-SMD-Lead-Battery-Socket-Holder-/111611684009) successfully in the past)

  • CR2032 batteries (you can find these at just about any grocery store)

  • A 3.8mm Gamebit bit or screwdriver depending on what you already have

  • Some good heat resistant gloves probably

  • Not required (I've so far done all of my own replacements without this) but definitely helpful: a "helping hand" like this one

  • Patience

    If you're at all worried about doing this, I can tell you that, having no prior experience to soldering, I've successfully replaced batteries on 8 of my own carts without damaging any of them. You can do it!

  1. Start by taking the two 3.8mm Gamebit screws out of the front of the cartridge and removing the plastic shell. Since you have the board out, now would also be a good time to clean it and the plastic. Use soap and water on the plastic (letting it dry thoroughly) and isopropyl alcohol on the board's gold contracts (where it plugs in).

  2. Heat up your soldering iron by just plugging it in, resting it on its stand, and leaving it for a few minutes. IT WILL GET VERY HOT, DON'T TOUCH IT. To test if it's hot enough, just put your hand near it. You should be able to feel the heat coming off it if it's warm enough.

  3. Begin removing the old battery. Locate it on the board, then find the two corresponding points on the back of the board where it connects. Also, take note of the polarity of the connections; the tab that runs from the top of the battery down is the positive end, the bottom is the negative. Start heating one of the contacts while pulling up on the battery away from the board (this is where those gloves and helping hand come in handy) Once you've got one end out, go for the other one.

  4. Take your battery holder and (if you're buying the ones I linked) bend the tabs so they're perpendicular to the holder itself. I used tweezers to do this. Be careful not to bend too much, or you may snap the metal tab off! (I've done that more than once...) Once you've done that place a fresh battery in the holder

  5. Now comes the hard part: putting the new battery holder in. Remember the orientation the old battery went it, and orient the new one in the same fashion. If you forgot how the old one went in, the two tabs are actually different sizes, so you shouldn't be able to put it in the holes if you've got wrong. Proceed to heat the solder under one of the tabs until it flows again and slide the tab into it. You may have to alternate back and forth to get it in fully, but by the end the holder should sit flush against against the board

  6. Place the board back into the plastic and screw the screws back in. One note about bigger boards (like the Yoshi's island cart you have): some plastic pieces may interfere with the board when you put it back in. One thing you could consider doing to remedy this is using a file to scrape away some of that plastic if you don't mind doing that to a cart or (preferably) the holder. Also something to note, Yoshi's Island and other Super FX carts have metal tabs on the plastic of the cartridge that act as a ground by touching the outside of the cartridge slot. If this isn't placed back properly, your cartridge may not boot, so that's one thing to check if that's the case after reassembly. Now, congratulate yourself. You've done it! Give yourself a pat on the back and get back to gaming. Good luck with 100%! :)
u/amaraNT2oo2 · 7 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

u/chuckufarlie · 7 pointsr/whatisthisthing

It's called a third hand tool or helping hand: https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499213965&sr=8-3&keywords=third+hand

Often used for soldering; or any task where you need to hold items while working on them with hand tools. Using for tying flies would work, possibly examining gem stones too.

u/alienman82 · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Those are really cheap. They are mostly used to solder wires since they can't support much weight. I would get him something better like this or this if you wanted to spend a little more. I have all three of these, so I know what is good :)

u/Ristake · 6 pointsr/gifs

If anyones thinking of getting into a hobby that requires soldering, a quality soldering iron where you can set the temperature is immensely helpful. The Hakko FX888D is great starting point.

Having extra hands to hold wires in place and a magnifying glass is pretty much a requirement as well.

u/stonedeng · 5 pointsr/AskElectronics

I don't have any suggestions on soldering irons, but I do recommend a brass wire sponge over a regular sponge for tip cleaning.

They work great and don't require any water. I personally feel they are better for your iron tip and don't get nasty like a sponge can.

Something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PDQORU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1373850851&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX112_SY192


Edit: that weller above that you listed is a good iron. Because you are doing SMD as well I would also recommend a solder sucker, as I call them ha.

This here http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KRAAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1373851104&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX112_SY192

Helps a ton if you get solder is the wrong place or need to take some off or out of a through hole.

Lastly, these third hands can be a life saver at times if you will be working alone often. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RB38X8/ref=pd_aw_sim_indust_2?pi=SL500_SY115

Good luck!

u/TheBrandonOne · 5 pointsr/Warhammer

something like this could be right up your alley

u/DividedBy_Zero · 5 pointsr/RetroPie

If you're taking your first steps into wiring, then you should get comfortable working with wires and tools. Here is a kit that will introduce you to wiring, soldering, etc.

Along with that, there are a few tools that might be useful to you:

  • A small stand with clips and magnifying glass
  • Solder wick for desoldering
  • Soldering tip cleaner
  • Extra supply of solder

    And there are videos on YouTube that will teach you how to properly solder a wire to a soldering point. For that Elenco kit, the main goal is to get both the siren and the flashing lights to work, which it will if you wired everything correctly and used the correct resistors. It can be easy to make mistakes while learning to solder for the first time but most mistakes can be fixed, and it's very difficult to cause enough damage to render the board completely unusable.

    Also, one note of caution: soldering irons are extremely hot, as the intent is to liquify the solder and attach it to the soldering points.
u/Deoxysprime · 5 pointsr/Gunpla

I've built 2 RGs and haven't had any problems due to size or parts being flimsy. I also have big and very shaky hands. Here's my advice:

  • I think we all drop and lose parts from time to time. The best way to handle this is to build in a clean space. Make sure your floor is clean, vacuumed, etc. before you begin. Make sure your lighting is good too!

  • A good pair of tweezers is a godsend when working with small parts. Also consider a helping hand.

  • When making the frame, make sure to gently bend the joints back and forth a bit to loosen them up before putting the armor on them. If you fail to do that and attempt to move the piece before loosening it up, you do risk damaging the part. This is mostly due to the pre-assembled nature of the RG frame.

    RGs are very fun kits that don't take up a lot of shelf space while also looking very impressive. I'm very happy with the ones I've built and I've got a couple more on deck. I highly recommend you try one. People talk up the RG 00 Raiser a lot and I personally built the RG Wing Zero and RG 00 Qan[t] and had few problems with them. (The RG 00 Qan[t] does have a loose V-fin problem so I recommend some plastic cement or glue for that.)
u/thepensivepoet · 5 pointsr/Guitar

You might make a mess of a switch or pot on your first time around dripping extra solder and shorting out some connections but those are also the cheapest components involved so no sweat if you need to swap something out.

Before you solder you want to make a physical connection first. Twist up the tips of the wire so they're thinner and thread them through the little eye holes on the contact points and bend them over into a hook shape so they're now hanging onto the part before heat gets involved.

Now apply the iron tip to the component where you're going to solder for a second or two to heat it up and touch the solder wire to the component (not just to the iron tip) and it should melt and flow to lock down the physical connection you formed above.

Your biggest danger is mostly going to be burning/melting components by having the iron in contact with them for too long so just work quickly and deliberately and you shouldn't have any issues.

A higher quality iron with variable temperature control should make this easier as the really cheap $10 irons often don't get hot enough to melt cheaper solder quickly so you spend more time pressing the hot tip to the components trying to melt solder and burn up gear.

Don't skimp on tools.

Also wear safety glasses as the last thing you want to do is fling hot solder off a springy wire right into your stupid eyes.

"Helping Hands" tools can be really useful as well. Most of the time when you burn yourself it's when you're doing something that kinda requires more than two hands at once so instead of holding pliers and an iron like chopsticks with solder in your mouth and a row of blisters on your thumb just take a step back and find a smarter way to work.

Oh and just a reminder - metal is a great conductor of heat so if you're putting the iron to a component you'll notice pretty quick if your skin is touching another exposed metal surface of the same component or wire.

u/2capp · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Might be worth getting a solder wick for when you inevitably screw up. Solder vacuum isn't a terrible idea either. I have both, I use them for different things. A third hand is also useful. I find myself using the glass more than the arms but it's all useful. If the iron you buy doesn't come with one a brass ball is great for keeping your tip clean without cooling it off like a sponge will. Micro-cutter is useful, not sure if angled or straight is better, up to you I guess. Last but not least a pair of angled tweezers. You can get those anywhere.

These are all the things I have within arm's reach when I'm doing a project. Have fun!

u/niandra3 · 4 pointsr/diypedals

I'm still pretty new to this myself, but like you I have some electronics experience in the past. I just got this Weller 40w iron station with a desolder braid/sucker and a solder tip cleaner. Oh and a more precise tip for the solder iron

I'm really happy with it all so far, and couln't imagine needing more for a while. A heat gun would be nice for de-soldering and reflowing premade boards (like modding Boss pedals), but that can also be done with a regular solder iron as far as I know. You can get the above for about $60 total, so it's a nice way to get your feet wet without a huge investment. Then you gotta add on components/enclosures/pots/switches etc. Maybe get a helping hands and/or circuit holder if you need

Oh and get a good multimeter. I went a step up from the $20 ones and got this one which I'm also really happy with.

u/ENGR001 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Edit: Please make sure you turn off and unplug your power supply before cutting any wires.

Parts / tool list below, this what i used but there are substitutes out there.

Note: Main thing that is slightly challenging is soldering the XT60s, basic idea is to “tin” (soldering term) the wires and the XT60s first, then heat the connector with your iron as you put the wire in to get a good fusion. Decent video on soldering them:solder XT60s


My soldering Iron:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZRT4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Flux:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ZIV85A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder (60-40)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G1J3W6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New XT-60’s and Shroud:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PN6N4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Helping Hands (not required, but def helpful)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB38X8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought this a while ago, but any heat shrink will do:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA3OFA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire - If you’re new to soldering and need practice, or you’re going to split your cables for Rasberry Pi, or other components, etc:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABOPMEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/_imjosh · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

This is my go to list for what you need for soldering:


hakko soldering iron w/ diagonal cutters $91

hakko diagonal cutters $4.37

solder $7

solder sucker $6

solder flux $8 check digikey

solder wick $7
check digikey

wire strippers $10

helping hands $7 check harbor freight

check for lower price

One of the hakko clone stations paired with some genuine hakko tips is probably a good compromise on price/value. Maybe someone else that's from the UK could suggest something different that's also affordable there.

u/aol_cd_stack · 3 pointsr/retrogaming

Time to whip out ye olde soldering iron and some solder. Doesn't look like too bad of a job. I would probably start by sucking the old solder from the back of the board with a desoldering pump. Then I would push new wire from the back of the board, through to the ROM chip, touching whatever contact surface is available, and flow solder on to the new wire from the back of the board, soldering it to the remains of the ROM pin, while avoiding heating up the ROM chip as much as possible.

A kit like this should have pretty much everything you need: http://amzn.to/1TzCGVb other than a little bit of wire. I would also get something like this to hold everything in place while you work: http://amzn.to/1WdLOCu also avoid caffeine the day you work on this :)

What game is it?

u/ivebeenhereallsummer · 3 pointsr/headphones

Well then for work that small you may want to get some helping hands when you buy your soldering iron. Any place that carries one will likely have the other.

u/NealsTrains · 3 pointsr/modeltrains

Couple things. When trying to glue pieces together, consider using a 'third hand'

https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hand-Magnifier/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=247J0EMMDFYZF&keywords=third+hand+tool&qid=1554861038&s=gateway&sprefix=third+hand%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-4

Also, try a wrist brace which you can buy in a drug store or supermarket without a prescription.

If the shaking gets worse, see a doctor...

u/burstaneurysm · 3 pointsr/scion

It is, but you'd be way better off if you soldered.
Permanent connections, no way a wire will come loose.

You really only need a basic iron, solder and heat shrink.
Hell, this is all you need. https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4/
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Sleeve-Shrink-Tubing-240Pcs/dp/B01461R89O

If you wanted, you can get a set of helping hands too and make your life really easy.
https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8

Soldering is very easy when you're just splicing wires. Not a ton of skill required. Get a roll of stranded wire and practice a bit.

When it's time to do the harness, cut away the excess, so you don't have a ton of wiring shoved behind the dash, slip a piece of heat shrink over one of the wires first and then do a lineman's splice, solder that connection and then shrink the tube over the bare connection.

u/Koldfuzion · 3 pointsr/3dshacks

Yep you're correct.

When soldering there are a few basic things you have to consider. The main idea is that you want to heat up the wire and the contact point to the point that the solder will "wick" to the parts. You don't want to just melt the solder on the iron itself and have it drizzle on the parts.

Here are some other basic tips I wish I had been told when I was learning to soldering electronics in no logical order:

  • USE A WELL VENTILATED AREA. DO NOT BREATHE IN FUMES!!!! That stuff is really bad for you. Do it in an open garage, or under a kitchen hood.
  • Make sure you use solder with rosin core flux. NOT ACID CORE FLUX. That's for plumbing.
  • Thinner solder is easier to work with, you can always use more.
  1. Use the appropriate size iron for the job or you risk problems like the OP. For something like the 3DS, I'd probably go no bigger than a 35W iron.
  2. You want the solder to look shiny when you're done. If it's dull looking, it's a cold solder point and a bad contact point. Any movement while cooling frequently causes this problem.
  3. One of these makes a huge difference. It's cheap and worth buying if you plan to do much electronics soldering.
  4. Keep your soldering iron tip clean. Frequently wipe it down on a wet paper towel or a wet sponge while using it.
  5. Don't reuse solder. It's cheap, and the flux inside is important to help it flow.
  6. Tin the tip of your iron with solder as well as the wire you plan to solder. It's easier to just hold the tinned wire down with an iron where you need to solder than to use another hand to hold solder.
  7. Don't bother with those gimmicky solder removers to take solder off. Just buy some solder wick and watch it suck all solder off using the solder's wicking action as you hold it on with an iron.

    But most of soldering is just practice. It's a pretty easy skill to get proficient at. After a few projects it'll be almost second nature.
u/Banaam · 3 pointsr/Whatisthis

It's for working on small parts, here's something like it on Amazon.

u/mynumberistwentynine · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Super pricey really. I mean, you can get this for 7 bucks. It wouldn't take much to make the rest.

Thing is though, most people don't want to do that. So more power to them for making something people want to buy. I can't blame em.

u/RetroGM · 3 pointsr/Gameboy

Just be patient, I watched the video twice to make sure I was doing everything right. Don’t be intimidated, worst part is trying to connect the screen back but with the right leverage even cheap helping hands that can be a cinch

u/veni_vidi_vale · 3 pointsr/headphones

I like how you think!:-)

all you need is a halfway decent soldering iron. Some [helping hands] (http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8), with or without a magnifying lens, is, well, like a 3rd hand.

If you have never soldered before, practice on the old cable/connector. Get a 1/4 inch replacement connector because you will have more room to solder. You can get decent cable without having to pay $$$$$.

The detachable cable mod is a little more tricky, but you don't have to do it all at once.

It's a great way to spend an evening.

u/trustifarian · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

How much are you going to be making electronics a hobby? If you're just going to be soldering some boards occasionally you could save a bit on the iron and get this Weller. Also a cleaner. If you go with the 888 that will have a wire cleaner built in. I'm getting old so I personally would recommend at least a magnifying glass. I have this helping hand The clips didn't do much for me but the glass did. There are times where the switch pin just gets lost and the glass helped a lot. I also picked up this kit when I started, primarily for the sucker, but I thought the other tools may come in handy. So far they haven't, other than the solder. The first time I tried to use the sucker I could not get it to work correctly, I just wasn't getting enough of a seal around the hot solder, thinking I'd melt the tip, so I ended up buying a different pump that I still have never used, because I eventually DID learn to use the cheaper sucker. I also can't make solder wick work properly, apparently. If this is your first time soldering/desoldering I recommend getting a cheap practice kit that you don't care if you ruin. I can recommend this one as it has you intentionally foul up joins so you can learn to fix them. You won't need strippers. Flush cutters would be helpful if you need to trim the pcb mount legs off your switches (like Zealios, which you will if you have a GH60 Satan pcb) or trimming LEDs. Work mat would be helpful to keep your work area clean but not necessary. You will need a small screwdriver but I can't remember what size. Tweezers or one of these grabber thingies are always helpful when the screw flips sideways when you are trying to seat it. I used this solder on 3 builds so far and have had no issues with joins failing.

u/Haywood_Djabloeme · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Very awesome. When I started painting minis I bought this worthless piece of shit, but it turned out to be a worthless piece of shit, so I quickly abandoned it. Your doohickey seems a thousand times more interesting.

u/project_twenty5oh1 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I went on a little shopping spree for my DIY/rebuildable stuff. Picked up the following:

5 glass beakers, 50-1000ml
4 oz amber glass boston round bottles, pack of 12
2x pack of 6 2oz amber bottles w/droppers
2x 2pack 8oz amber bottles
[labels for bottles] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z5SM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
100count transfer pipettes
2 10 packs of 5ml blunt tip syringes
Heated ultrasonic cleaner (for quick steeping)

100ft A1 32 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 30 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 28 AWG kanthal
12ft 2mm braided hollow Ekowool
Pair of locking hemostats
butane pencil torch (for torching ekowool)
This genius little invention - everyone should buy this, it was like six bucks

other than that, a couple anyvape mini davide glass clearos because the protank 2 group buy I organized will likely not have a replacable drip tip, and I need at least 2 mini glass tanks that can take my bds60 from captivape.

i need me a fucking workshop, not sure where I'm going to put all this stuff...

u/Hard_Max · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Yep, that's the one (it's partially put together on my kitchen table right now). I'll tell what I bought and let you decide what to get (I overbought since I have nothing to start with). Keep in mind that I am completely new to the RC hobby and this is my first quadcopter build.

laptop screws for the motors

nylon spacer kit

Nylock nuts for the props

Velcro straps

XT60 connectors to make power lead

Wire to make power lead

zip ties

heat shrink

Like I said I overbought but I think this will work for me (for example my batteries have an XT60 connection).

Some other stuff I got because I'm a newb and want my quadcopter to light up the sky:

Helping Hands Magnifier -> this works very well

Learn to solder kit -> it helped me

Pretty lights

u/sumthingsup · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Just yesterday I replaced the body of my X4. I have never used a soldering iron before. The desoldering and resoldering of the motors is a piece of cake. You are going to want one of these... http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RB38X8?cache=11f46a07c09d9240592152877290bff4&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412195317&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1 Good luck!

u/UndeadCaesar · 2 pointsr/minipainting

You ever use something like this? Find my hands are hard to steady after painting for a while and they start cramping. Might need to wrap something soft around the tips so they don't mar the plastic but it seem useful.

u/Chadder03 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

In case anyone else wants one.

Less than 9 bucks on Amazon

u/SteampunkBorg · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Maybe a "third Hand" would help you.

Seriously, I can see on an acceptable Level and handle Tools pretty well, but I still use one of These for things as fiddly as Ethernet cables: https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/

There are more fancy ones available, with larger magnifyer, more clamps, more flexible arms etc.

u/citizenatlarge · 2 pointsr/woahdude

Samsung Galaxy Note 3 camera module replacement

I just replaced the wifi module in my wife's Note 2.. The Logic Board (aka- motherboard) in mine.. and then had to finally find a replacement for (b/c the connector ripped the male contact off of the logic board inside of the wire's female connector and I couldn't get it out.. super tiny shit) and install the USB/Cell Antenna cable in my Note 2.. With the tools, patience, PARTS lol, and instructions, you don't need a new phone as often as you'd think ;)

Total cost.. About $50 for all of those parts on ebay and ifixit-(which is expensive, but it's quick and reliable.. the bad cable I got was from them, and they replaced it free w/o a return of the faulty one) The tools aren't that much either.. ifixit has their stuff overpriced.. just find them elsewhere.. then, just watch a lot of videos, and go slow.

Did you know? you can use 2x magnifying lenses held at just the right distances from each other to create a MUCH more powerful magnification? I use a set of Helping Hands (not the best design btw) and then use a smaller magnifying glass held by one of the alligator clips held infront of the larger one to make a laymans microscope..

Here's an example of how I have mine setup.. This is an old RadioShack version that I paid waaaaay too much for back before I used the net lol.. Like $40?? I think ughh.. Pretty sure there's better for less now.

Shit.. I just reread what your issue was and it's the Vibration lmao.. I'm sorry, bit tipsy but I'm leaving all of that above. Did you try this?

u/necessaryresponse · 2 pointsr/DIY

I think a lot of people have trouble because they don't have a hot clean tip. My friend who "can't solder" has a 20+ year old soldering iron with a corroded tip. I use a wet sponge, cleaning wire, and tip tinner interchangeably to keep it clean as I go.

Also having one of those magnifying glass/alligator clip holders is extremely helpful.

u/shooteredditor · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

This and Helping Hands

u/r4d0x · 2 pointsr/diypedals

The nicest one I have ever used was [this one by Otto Frei.](
http://www.ottofrei.com/Store/Soldering-Stations-Third-Hands/GRS-004-570-Double-Soldering-Station-With-2-Third-Hands.html) I really liked it when I borrowed it to do some wire harness and cable modifications, so much so that I looked it up afterward, but I couldn't handle the sticker shock.

For pedal making/modifying, I would recommend a circuit board holder and a typical helping hand (with or without magnifying glass) so that you have both hands available to use the iron and feed solder.

u/jimtheadmin · 2 pointsr/3dshacks

Thanks, it's probably even better if we drop this here and this one has the magnifying glass on it.

u/pyronordicman · 2 pointsr/Tucson

This product is similar to mine. I can't find it on thinkgeek.

u/jake91306 · 2 pointsr/ModelCars
u/bigboij · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

secret to solder suckers is to use it while using the iron. a pair of helping hands helps alot when soldering so you can do such a feat

http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hand-Magnifier/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421695929&sr=1-1&keywords=helping+hands

u/Motorgoose · 2 pointsr/electronics

How strong are the arms compared to one of these helping hands? I have the below one but sometimes the positioning is limited.

https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486734389&sr=8-3&keywords=helping+hand

u/a1blank · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Those are referred to as 3rd hand tools or helping hand tools (this is the one I have). They can be useful, but I don't think they'll be helpful for the ErgoDox kit (haven't actually really done that sort of of soldering, esp the surface mount diodes). They tend to be particularly useful when you're doing through-hole soldering. Here's a video demonstrating some uses of a 3rd hand. Here's another video.

u/izzylobo · 2 pointsr/minipainting

You're probably looking for something like this -

Helping Hands

I use one of these on occasion - I've stripped off the magnifying lense (too awkward), and have only one of the "hands" modules on it. With a little adjustment, you can move the miniature around to get at every bit of it, it leaves one hand free, holds it securely (so at least one part of brush + mini is steady!), and you can adjust the height of the mini pretty substantially.

u/dfnkt · 2 pointsr/EliteDangerous

Look up some tutorials on youtube. A good iron makes a world of difference. I struggled with properly tinning all the irons I've used previously which were just those cheap $8 dollar irons from like walmart. The weller that was in my dad's stuff wasn't much more expensive but they make quality stuff.

The tip tinned very well and everything was fairly smooth. If you don't have a decent stock of soldering supplies I would purchase them before you start.

Here's a quick rundown of what I would recommend:

Simple Weller Soldering Iron

Helping Hands

Desolder Wick

Kester .03" solder

Having the desolder wick saved me a few times when I had some bad flow from the parts not having adequate heat and the solder just clumping on the pin rather than flowing into the connection. You just lay the braid over the solder and press your iron on top and it will soak the solder into the braid and leave your parts clean. You'll probably want something to clean your solder iron tip with. You can buy a Hakko cleaning stand with wire brush for $10 on amazon or you can just wet a scotch brite pad you buy from walmart for a few dollars.

You can use solder you already have if it's a small enough diameter. You want small diameter so that when you touch it to the part (not to the iron) it melts quickly and you dont have to continue to apply heat to the parts. As far as actually handling the solder while you're trying to work I like to cut a small length of solder, maybe 6-8 inches and then wind it in a mini spool around my pinkie finger and leave a length of it sticking out so you have something to hold on to that will give you good control.

How-To Solder Instructable

Once you make the connections look at them, a good connection should typically be shiny and not cloudy. It's likely overkill for this project but those are good practices.

u/water_mellonz · 2 pointsr/boardgames

https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/

Helping hands stand w/ built-on magnifying lense might help.

u/GaryV83 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

To save your eyesight, you might need this.

u/jaykaizen · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I'm basically in the same boat as you so I cant help you much but here's some places that can.

https://youtu.be/gDbVtbLJicA
I haven't watched that video but there are is a few on YouTube.

try doing a search here and if you still have questions do a post.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/

Thsee are two highly rated soldering stations on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1427285096&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=soldering+iron

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ANZRT4M/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?qid=1427285346&sr=8-19&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=soldering+iron&dpPl=1&dpID=41sCMxh%2BAYL&ref=plSrch

And you may want to get these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RB38X8/ref=pd_aw_fbt__hi_img_2?refRID=04241AVDK89CA7JZ7G53

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KRAAG/ref=pd_aw_fbt__hi_img_3?refRID=05VW456WDCV7D1PTHEPE

You may want to start with an unregulated or an okr or raptor build. It'll be cheaper and its easy to find tutorials on building them online. That is probably what I will start with.

u/NickTackular84 · 1 pointr/rccars

Do yourself a favor and buy this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RB38X8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1383180500&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

That's what I use. Also my technique is to put soder on the connector then sodder the wire then all I have to do is hold the cable next to the connector heat up the soder and wait a few seconds for it to cool. Perfect connection every time

u/xPandaStyle · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have -6 in my left eye and -5.5 on my right so I am near blind as well. Back when I used to make unregulated mods, I had a helping had tool for soldering. I think it could help also.

link to Amazon

u/JamesLeBrown · 1 pointr/techsupportgore
u/was-not-taken · 1 pointr/Guitar

Looks like you've started down the road to learning how to make your own cables, and you need some guidance while you're practicing.


This page has a nice picture of good, bad and ugly results. Yours are not bad for a beginner but ... ugly.


This set of search results will provide lots of information. Read as much as you can.


Here's what I use for guitar cable soldering tools. The links are for explanation. You don't have to get them at Amazon. An electronics store will have them. You may decide it's less expensive to buy the patch cables. But, if you are a do it yourself type, the tools will pay for themselves.

Weller 25W iron Get some extra chisel tips. They get destroyed quickly by noobs.


Helping hands


Wire stripper


Solder sucker


Brass wool solder iron cleaner


63/37/resin core .6mm solder

u/timisthedevil · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

If you bought the kit that requires soldering, buy Helping Hands
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_TfgIwbTHFC3S4

Soldering is a beast with just two hands.
And desoldering wick in case you make a mistake.

u/Ragnaroc05 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

ABSOLUTELY! I have built well over 50 models being a mixture of RGs, MGs and HGs and I have gone through the gambit when building them when it comes to emotions and skills. I started with automotive grade side cutters and using a pocket knife to trim the nub. Than I started panel lining, got a pair of jewlery nippers, sanding the nub and than to my system now a tool kit that includes Gundam Planet nippers, two hobby knives, straight edged toe nail clippers, sakura 005 black pens, metallic sharpies, masking tape and foam finger nail sanders. It wasn't until I joined this community that I learned more about aspects like adding a top coat and custom painting.

Gunpla isn't about making your model look like everybody elses, its about making yourself happy and enjoying the process.

With regards to RG kits, as they do have tiny tiny pieces, if you're really worried about your hands shaking I would look into acquiring a work stand similar to what people use while soldering electronics and making miniature figurines.
http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453307699&sr=8-3&keywords=solder+stand

EDIT: http://ragnaroc05.imgur.com/all/ In case you wanted to look around.

u/jaifriedpork · 1 pointr/Multicopter

This is my iron. There are many like it, but this one is mine. It's not a great iron, it's a good enough iron, and you can get replacement tips pretty cheap. (I'm actually wanting to upgrade to a $150 Weller, but my iron still works fine. I want better heat control and thermal capacity, but this is one of those "if you can't explain why you need it, you don't need it yet" things.) I also bought this tip cleaner on the same order apparently, I prefer it to a sponge but it's not necessary.

This is the solder I bought most recently. It's honestly a little on the thick side, and multi-core would be better, but it was cheap and works fine. Without the rosin, you'd need flux; they etch the metal to remove the oxide layer that naturally forms and would inhibit a good joint. Thin solder melts faster and gives you more control over how much you apply.

There's other stuff that isn't strictly necessary, but is useful. I have a heat antistatic may on my work bench, and a cheap fume extractor set up behind it; I won't bother linking it because it doesn't have any kind of filter in it. The rosin smoke and the lead are both kinda toxic, so a well-ventilated area and/or a good fume extractor are important. I also keep flux paste, desoldering wick, a solder sucker, and a set of helping hands on my workbench, but I use all that stuff because I do a fair bit of electronics work, YMMV.

For references, Dave of EEVBlog fame has a three part tutorial on soldering which covers all the bases pretty well. He'll also leave you saying "sohldah" instead of "sodder," which is a fun way to annoy American EEs.

Edit: This is my workbench, for reference since I'm in that room right now. There's heat shrink on the helping hands, a trick I straight up stole from /u/bulbufet. It keeps the alligator clips from digging into wires, though the heat shrink has to be replaced periodically as the teeth will eventually work their way through it. And if you don't want to slap together a solder holder out of MDF, you can buy them, but where's the fun in that?

u/lauraskeez · 1 pointr/Guitar

That's really nice. What else would I need? Just solder and a vice?

u/beetry · 1 pointr/DIY

I think if you're able to financially, you should try and get something more in the mid-range. I have a feeling that this 15 dollar iron is going to be wildly inconsistent in keeping it's temp up and make it extremely difficult for you to get good solder joints. I would recommend something like this.

As far as other accesories go, I would grab a "Helping Hands" a head band magnifier and some nice small tweezers.

u/wblock · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Just got mine yesterday for $6... Amazon Prime, free shipping.

Edit: Link included

u/KSinatra95 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi
u/MojoMonster · 1 pointr/telecaster

Soldering is a good skill to have, in general.

And if you're careful, there's not much you can screw up.

Watch a YT tutorial or two and you'll be good to go.

For tools you'll eventually want what is in this kit, but probably not that kit itself.

I bought a Weller WLC100 40 watt kit (definitely get a norrower ST2 or ST3 tip as well), a solder sucker tool (you can use desoldering wick, but the solder sucker is worth the money), a Helping Hands and 60/40 rosin-core solder.

In addition, I like using tip tinner, a wire tip cleaner like this because I found that using a wet sponge reduced the tip temperature too much.

Also, solder fumes are not great so only do this is in a well-ventilated area. I like to use a small fan to blow the fumes away from my face.

The only thing you'll need to do is desolder/clip the existing swtich and wire up the replacement. You don't have to mess with the pots or caps unless you want to.

Phostenix Tele diagram page.

edit: fixed solder type

u/sspencerz · 1 pointr/airsoft

get one of these and solder on random scrap wire. The helping hand works wonders in keeping your wires from moving.

u/PandaReich · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Heat shrink, why only pick one size?

If you're planning on using a lot of heat shrink it might be a good investment to get a heatgun, although a lighter works just fine.

[Cable sleeves] (https://www.amazon.com/PET-Expandable-Braided-Sleeving--10ft/dp/B00ZATLUZ0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467915160&sr=8-3&keywords=cable+sleeve) on amazon, there are multiple different sizes you can pick from, a quick search will net you tons of results.

A Helping Hand can be nice, but isn't needed.

You'll need to get a wire stripper or an x-acto knife and a careful hand. A hot glue gun is necessary IMO, it will protect and insulate your solder points as well as hold cables down IF you don't have zip ties. Also get zip ties. I made use of a wood file I had so I could smooth out some of the sharp carbon fiber edges on my frame, just don't breath in the fiber dust. I keep my quad in a backpack, my tool and extra parts are all in a box under my desk. Organization is not my strong suit.

u/Chrono68 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Diy lm317 power supply. these things aren't the best but it is a linear supply and for hobbies you won't need anything more sophisticated. It's dirt cheap, and you get to practice soldering. Imo, buy 2 so you can supply the negative voltages for the common op amp.

Soldering station I have fondness for this station as it was the one we had to buy for our program at school. I like it a lot because the iron stand, heating element, sponge holder, and a solder wire spool are all connected so you just need to haul around 1 object. Don't need to go digging for your iron stand or setting your spool of solder somewhere and forget it. Works well enough for your use and I believe there are tips out there.

Breadboard and wires this is mandatory. If there's anything on my list you choose to buy, you must buy this first. Breadboards are essential. If you can buy two of these.

63/37 solder you don't work for a company that is rohs compliant, don't burden yourself with leadless solder. Look for a us shipping of that if you don't want to wait.

Wire snips if you own side cutters you probably won't need these.

Wire strippers again you might not need these if you are patient and strip them with cutters. Also the breadboards above come with pre cut

Helping hands I do SMD rework professionally and I don't use hands because I'm an idiot. Don't be an idiot and learn from the get go using these.

If you can find any of these for cheaper than I found, go for it. Should be around 70 bucks. Good puck!



u/krimped · 1 pointr/computertechs

I recommend that you have at least one of these: http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1398110354&sr=8-7&keywords=magnifying+glass

And/or one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Carson-DeskBrite-Illuminated-Magnifier-LM-20/dp/B003EW1ZNC/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1398110385&sr=8-18&keywords=magnifying+glass

Also, you should have a cheap digital camera to take pictures of customer equipment with. Don't forget to get a decent air compressor so that you don't have to buy canned air. Set the pressure on the compressor to no more than 60 PSI. You will also need a good shop vac to go with the compressor. It will keep dust from flying into your work environment as you clean customer equipment.

u/permanenttemp · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

Can't go wrong with this, $19.07 shipped with Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NUS-Medium-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG6UQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1398198851&sr=8-3&keywords=weller+40

If you need something safe for smaller projects as well, this would be fine. $41.19 with Prime
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398198808&sr=8-2&keywords=weller+40

I guess I'm a fan of weller products. I've had them at home and a shop. I got one of their higher end soldering stations when I was about 11 to build my own battery packs for my R/C cars and it saw a lot of use. Back then we hardwired the leads from the ESC to the motors and batteries between heats for the lowest resistance. (not to mention deans plugs weren't a thing yet, tamiya connectors would melt together with a hot motor/battery combo) I still have it over 20 years later.

I would say 40 watts is about the standard with typical R/C projects. Also, the lower end brands 40 watt irons don't ever seem to create the heat as something of decent quality.

Also, if you don't have something like this yet, pick one up. $7 shipped all over Amazon. Also available at Harbor Freight for about the same price if you have those in your area.
http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=pd_sim_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TB7X5RYFKZ3SR4EXY1P

u/frankslan · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-937-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B000I30QBW/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1395077736&sr=8-15&keywords=soldering+iron

get a good iron, solder, and those magnifier hands. Then just start playing with soldering wire together and then do a project. Search youtube how to solder it's pretty easy. Oh and wear safety glasses sometimes the wire will slip or something weird happens and solder goes flying towards your eyes, better to be safe than sorry.


http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

u/Syesy · 1 pointr/DIY

I love my helping hands tool. Only $7 and had never failed. Maybe if I were soldering very small electronics I could see buying a nice vise grip like tool. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-L0HAbVWXN6R8

u/_josepi_ · 1 pointr/DIY

Hey, I've made one of those :) Sans fancy veneers.

To make your soldering life easier, get one of these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518785664&sr=1-4&keywords=soldering+helping+hand

Next up is dealing with those frets, get a fret rocker/files off aliexpress (about 1/5th the price of buying from US sellers) and a set of feeler gauges.

The pickups included in those aren't so hot, https://www.guitarfetish.com/GFS-Guitar-Pickups_c_7.html for cheap and mildly betterer.

Now, garageband isn't the best way to play, so...lookup on building your own 5e3 kit or the like, you'll save hundreds and probably have another video to make just in that.