Reddit Reddit reviews Seachem Stability Fish Tank Stabilizer - For Freshwater and Marine Aquariums 500 ml

We found 16 Reddit comments about Seachem Stability Fish Tank Stabilizer - For Freshwater and Marine Aquariums 500 ml. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Seachem Stability Fish Tank Stabilizer - For Freshwater and Marine Aquariums 500 ml
TANK STABILIZATION: Seachem Stability will rapidly and safely establish the aquarium biofilter in freshwater and marine systems, thereby preventing the #1 cause of fish death: "new tank syndrome".TREATMENT: Stability is formulated specifically for the aquarium and contains a synergistic blend of aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative bacteria which facilitate the breakdown of waste organics, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.BACTERIA GROWTH: The necessary conditions for the growth of Stability's bacteria strains encompass a very broad range. When other bacteria begin to die off (usually from high organic loads caused by the unknown death of an organism), Stability simply becomes more effective.USE: Shake Seachem Stability well before use and turn off UV/ozone filter. Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 40 L (10 US gallons) on the first day with a new aquarium. Then use 1 capful for each 80 L (20 US gallons) daily for 7 days. Fish and other aquatic species may be introduced at any time as long as dosage is maintained for 7 days.SAFE: The bacteria employed by Stability are non-sulfur fixing and will not produce toxic hydrogen sulfide. Stability is completely harmless to all aquatic organisms as well as aquatic plants, thus there is no danger of overuse.
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16 Reddit comments about Seachem Stability Fish Tank Stabilizer - For Freshwater and Marine Aquariums 500 ml:

u/Oucid · 22 pointsr/Aquariums

Glad you seem so willing and ready to help your betta! Im gonna try to cover everything that you need to help your betta live a happy healthy life in one comment :)

Requirements -

  • 5 gallon tank+
  • Filter
  • Heater (5watts per gallon is good)
  • places to hide, like silk or live plants (your moss ball is a live plant/algae) nothing sharp and plastic plants can tear fins (ive seen it happen)

    Petsmart sells 5 gallon kits that come with filters and lids! A 25-50watt heater will work for a 5 gallon, preferably adjustable like the 50watt aqueon is common in pet stores and theres a preset heater that would also work the tetra 40 or something i think its 50watt as well

    You will also need to cycle your tank! Ill explain that a bit more below and include links.

    Fish-in cycling -

    Basically the fish-in cycling process consists of 50% water changes daily using Seachem Prime (preferably). Do this until your tank is cycled, which I’ll explain how to know that below.

    While cycling, add the beneficial bacteria directly into the filter daily.

    A good filter set up is something with low flow, it can be baffled if needed. For filter media (or the guts of the filter) cermaic bio media, aquarium sponge, and filter floss would be great. Don’t replace any of this unless it starts breaking down, then you’ll need to seed new media, but you shouldn’t have to worry about that for a long time.

    You’ll need an API Master Test kit, this is an accurate way to know your parameters (such as ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate). This is more accurate than strips, with test strips its super easy to get an inaccurate reading. The kit also lasts longer so you’ll get your money’s worth. I’ll include a link below to the kit.

    When the tank is cycled, you’ll test and find 0 parts per million (ppm) ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and ‘x’ amount ppm of nitrate. (Dont focus too hard on what parts per million means, its just how this stuff is measured. Nitrates should be kept under 20ppm, they arent as toxic as ammonia or nitrites but can be in large amounts.)

    After your tank is cycled, you’ll need to do weekly water changes of 15-25% using a gravel vacuum preferably. Gravel vacuum/siphons allow you to get the dirt out of the gravel easily without needing to take it out. Highly recommend getting one of these! Its a necessity!

    • ⁠Avoid large water changes, it could offset the balance of your tank. Never rinse the filter media in tap water, that can kill the beneficial bacteria (which I’ll send links to explain that more in a second). To clean the filter inserts aka media, just take them out and swish or squeeze in old tank water till the gunk is out. You’ll probably only need to do this once a month or so.

    Links-

    Information:

    Nitrogen Cycle: https://fishlab.com/nitrogen-cycle/

    Fish-In Cycling: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

    My diagram/explanation on the cycle:https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/c8evu4/nitrogen_cycle_art_by_me/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

    Supplies:

    API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K

    Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u-kKDbTMV2W8K

    Northfin Food Betta Bits 1Mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

    This is the best quality pellet I’ve found, here’s why:

    • ⁠Nutritious, includes whole ingredients
    • ⁠No fillers, hormones, or artificial pigments
    • ⁠Packed with proteins, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals
    • ⁠Floating pellets, roughly 1mm (they float for a bit then drop, my bettas chase them down)
    • ⁠Easily digestible to promote optimal nutrient absorption
    up
    (This stuff is advertised by seller, but if you read the labels its all good)

    Helpful other supplies:

    Seachem Stability Fish Tank Stabilizer - For Freshwater and Marine Aquariums 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k.kKDbDZMVD4J

    (Bacteria in a bottle, it’ll help speed up the cycling process but it is optional)

    Gravel Vacuum/Siphon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q97ZPSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LblKDbFT79MAB

    (Of course you don’t need this specific one, I just chose the best seller off Amazon as an example of what to look for. The local pet store should have these for around $10)

    How-To Gravel Vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY
u/Dd7990 · 20 pointsr/bettafish

Umm.. ok. Unfortunately, if that bowl is Liam’s permanent home, he won’t have the really great life that he deserves. No living fish should be forced to live in such a tiny bowl/tank permanently.

A 5gallon is the recommended minimum tank size to give your new pal the best possible quality of life... You can keep him TEMPORARILY in the bowl but you’ll need to change the water DAILY with fresh dechlorinated water (or pure spring water works too but is a bit more costly) since such a small container is going to foul up fast. Remove any leftover food/waste ASAP as soon as you see it.

A larger tank is going to be more stable and better for the betta in the long run. I really hope you’ll upgrade him sooner rather than later.

Some cheap ones can be had:

https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-40713.html?cgid=300128 (manually click on and select the 5gal. It’s going for around $31.99 at the time of this comment)

https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-imagine-aquarium-kit-38988.html?cgid=300128 (be sure to get the 5gal. version currently priced at $25.99 at the time of this comment, DO NOT USE THE DIVIDER, I’m linking you this tank with the intent that you only put one betta in it, 5g for one single betta).

https://www.amazon.com/AquaView-6-5-Gallon-Power-Filter-Lighting/dp/B0182CAHWS

I recommend a sponge filter which isn’t included in those kits but would be gentler/more effective for a betta than those filters included in the tank kits. Also recommended a 25w heater (assuming you go for 5 g tank) with a manual temperature control knob since preset heaters are not accurate.

Once you have the 5g tank, sponge filter, and proper heater, you need to do Fish-in Nitrogen Cycle: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle

Must Have Items for your Nitrogen Cycling process + Additional Info:

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle.

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form.

https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates. ​

Other stuff:

Also... try getting NorthFin Betta Bits, they're one of the best pellets with high quality ingredients, little or no fillers, and absolutely no nasty toxic preservatives. My bettas love them so much that they inhale them like it's drugs for a drug addict or something LOL (or exactly like Kirby)! https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Food-Betta-Pellet-Package/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4/

Beware of overfeeding, which is equally bad for bettas (they are gluttons and would eat till they burst if given the chance) https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg. (save this pic for reference, feed betta as much as makes his belly match between 1st and 2nd photo, then let him digest back down to a normal belly before feed again.)

Filter - any as long as it have adjustable flow (or else you can make a baffle if the flow is too strong, google about that), or many here recommend a basic Sponge-Filter to have a gentle water output that won't be stressful and push the betta all around the tank (the ones with big fins have a hard time with strong currents in their tank).

Heater - Any heater, following the 5-watt-per-gallon power rating rule, with a manual knob for setting temperature (so for example 5g you want at least 25watt heater), don't go for preset heaters (they're not very accurate). Bettas like 78-80F (25-27C).

Plants - Bettas like to have a lot (like a jungle) of plants to hide in, swim through, explore, play, and rest on. Some beginner live plants that don't require special setups are Marimo Moss balls + Java moss, other live plants may have special requirements in order to thrive. Silk plants (cloth leaves) are fine too if you don't have a green thumb. I do a mixed hybrid tank; silk plants + lots of marimo moss balls + java moss. Make sure if using silk/fake plants that there's no sharp pokey bits, remove and sand them down if there are.

Decor - Bettas appreciate cave-like decor that they can hide in. Make sure there's nothing sharp on the inside of the cave, nor sharp edges or sharp parts outside. Avoid also any smallish openings that a betta can get their head stuck in if they get curious. Another nice decor is the ZooMed Floating Betta Log (for 5g or larger tanks), bettas like hanging out in there.

More info on Betta care & needs: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index

If after reading all this info it seems like more than you can handle, you should try to rehome him on r/aquaswap to a local aquarist with a big planted tank to give him the best life. He’s a living creature and you have to consider his needs as you are responsible for his quality of life. If you want to keep him, then you absolutely have to give him the best care and best environment possible so that he can live a long healthy life (bettas can live 3-5 years and sometimes more if you really treat them well). When there’s a will there’s a way! You can and should do it!

u/BrilliantNova · 12 pointsr/shrimptank

I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:

Equipment

  • 10 gallon tank with hood
  • Broad Spectrum Light The one that came with the hood did not provide enough for the plants, you definitely need to invest in a broad spectrum bulb.
  • CaribSea Flora Max Substrate I learned that shrimp prefer darker color substrate, this was worth the investment! My shrimp were so unhappy with cheap gravel, after switching to this substrate they are very active.
  • Air pump
  • Sponge filter
  • Heater, maybe optional for you?
  • Thermometer
  • Gallon Bucket
  • Siphon
  • Seachem Prime Because it's a smaller tank, I ended up poking a pinhole sized hole in the seal so that I could use it as drops rather than pouring it in.
  • [Seachem Stability] (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67101230-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499786377&sr=1-1&keywords=seachem+stability) Use this while you're cycling your tank, follow the instructions.
  • API Test Kit
  • Feeding Tray For the longest time I was really confused as to how the feeding tray worked, you can either get a tube or pre-soak the pellets and then drop them into the tray using long tweezers. This will help prevent ammonia/nitrite spikes.
  • Long Tweezer Set
  • Pellets Do also feed them blanched vegetables, make sure to peel the skin and buy organic to avoid chemicals/pesticides
  • Timer Outlet Worth the investment! So you don't have to keep remembering to turn the light on and off.

    Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.

    Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.

    EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:

    Setting up your tank

    1. Find a stable top to place your aquarium on, keep in mind a well sunlit room will mean more plant/algae growth. Make sure it's sturdy and made for heavy objects, don't want to place it on a flimsy shelf or it might break! I keep mine on top a waterproof place mat because water drips are going to happen.
    1. Rinse everything as a precaution! NEVER use dish soap!! If you must sanitize, vinegar is okay. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly. Also, NEVER use any kind of soap on your hands before handling things, just rinse well with water. Add your substrate, I lightly rinsed mine as there are beneficial bacteria living inside the substrate, pour it in. Make sure it's at least 2" of floor. Your water will be cloudy if you bought the substrate I listed, don't worry as it will settle after an hour and be clear.
    1. Fill water half way, use a small plate and pour the water on top of that to avoid the substrate being pushed around. NEVER use hot water! If you're using tap water be sure to always use cold water. It's also recommended to purchase "RO water" (Reverse Osmosis Water) as some times your tap water can be too "hard". The best thing to do is use the test kit on tap water and go from there. If the kH/gH are very high 100+ you will need to use RO water. I like to place my plants and decor now while the tank is half full. Place in your thermometer, heater, sponge filter, etc. After that, continue to fill all the way to the top remembering to aim the stream on top the plate. Leave about a half to an inch from the top.
    1. Take out plate, plug in filter, add in Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability. Please read the label for instructions and dosage according to your tank size. Since there is nothing inside you can add it after you've added the water to the tank. Moving forward, be sure to add the chemicals in the water bucket BEFORE pouring into the tank.
    1. Turn on filter, wait for the water to settle and temperature to come up. They say shrimp can tolerate 52F to 86F but ideally room temperature water is best, this is where your water heater will come into play. Follow which ever cycling method you choose before purchasing your shrimp. This can take up to 6 weeks.

      After your tank has cycled

    1. When adding your shrimp, there are many methods, the way I acclimate my shrimp is:
    1. Put the shrimp in a 1 gallon tub using the water that they came in.
    1. Drop in a tablespoon of the tank water, ONCE every 2 minutes.
    1. After the water has reached 1/3 old water, 2/3rd new water, your shrimp are ready to be placed into your tank.

      Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.

      Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:

  • kH: 60 / gH: 40 / pH: 7.0 / NO2: 0 / NO3: 20 / Ammonia: 0 / Temperature: 72F

    I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!
u/TheShadyMilkman206 · 6 pointsr/bettafish

Your ammonia levels will never fall to zero since you have now put a fish in an uncycled tank. You need to forget about all the conflicting information you have read and just focus on one thing since you are doing a fish-in cycle: Keeping the water as clean as possible for your fish.

The entire reason a fishless cycle is preferred is because you don't have the well-being of a living being to be concerned about and can make adjustments to help feed your beneficialy bacteria

  1. Start performing partial water changes IMMEDIATELY. 2ppm ammonia is absolutely toxic to your fish. Dose Prime at up to a 5x dose safely. You can get a free ammonia vs total ammonia kit if you want to see how much harmful ammonia is in the tank vs. the total ammonia that is being neutralized by prime. This Kit

  2. Read this article, follow his guide and don't worry about anything else you have read. It has worked for me multiple times. http://www.kevinbush.com/cycling/the-fish-in-cycle/

  3. Excel will not effect your cycle one way or the other. It is nothing but a liquid form of carbon.

  4. Safestart is trash. Don't rely on it and don't expect it to do anything. If you want to help stabilize your beneficial bacteria use Seachem Stability. Dr. Tims beneficial bacteria is known to work well. That being said, I never rely on quick-starters. I do add stability to new tanks though.

  5. Like I said, with a fish-in cycle you have one goal and one focus. Keep the water as safe as you possibly can for your fish and forget about your cycle developing. It will eventually develop on its own. None of the products you have mentioned using will impede its ability to form. Keep the water pristine and warm.

  6. Another option, if you want to get that cycle going fast, is to get a temporary holding tank for your betta (one that is still heated), turn the heat in your main tank up to 82°F and add pure ammonia. I have cycled tanks in as little as 2 weeks combining pure ammonia and stability. To give you an idea of how long a fish-in cycle is supposed to take, the safe level of ammonia for your fish (MAXIMUM) is .25ppm. During a fishless cycle you keep the ammonia concentration at 2ppm-4ppm (8-16 times the ammount!) and it still takes about 2 weeks (if you are lucky) to stabilize. If you want to perform a fishless cycle read kevin bush's other article: http://www.kevinbush.com/cycling/the-fishless-cycle/. I use this ammonia from Ace Hardware. The #1 thing you need to be sure of when purchasing pure ammonia is that it contains no surfactants (soaps). The easiest way to tell is to vigorously shake the bottle. Bubbles will form but should dissipate immediately. If they do not, then there is surfactants present. Here is an ammonia calculator if you choose to go this route: https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/AmmoniaCycling.php


    Good luck, ask more questions if you need to.
u/Palmfrond11 · 5 pointsr/bettafish

He might stand a chance if he gets into a larger body of clean, conditioned water and you step up water changes.

If the fish is in a small vase, ammonia levels will build up very fast, which means he would need his water changed daily. I can see where you’re coming from but the acute stress of a new tank would be less damaging than the ongoing stress of living in dirty water. It has been slowly killing him and making him more weak. Imagine how you’d feel entering a warm, clean room after being in a freezing cold one with smoggy air. You’d instantly feel better even if it was unfamiliar.

They can survive in small water quantities but that doesn’t mean they will do well or live their proper life span. They are only meant to survive in puddles to get to bigger puddles, and make it to the next rain which brings fresh water.

I would say get him into a new, minimal 5 gallon container ASAP! Get a 5 gallon tote from a store if you can’t get a tank right away. It’s better than what he’s in. You can probably find a kit that comes with tank, and filter together.

Change out 20-50% of that water daily. Use a gravel vaccum to suck up the waste. Make sure you add enough conditioner for the whole tank, not just what you’re adding.


After that, read up on the nitrogen cycle, which should be enough to convince you to get a filter. A ~$5 sponge filter is fine and has a low current. You’d need an air pump and tubing for that. Or just get a canister filter. Like i said you can probably find a kit at a pet store that has light, filter etc for a good deal.

If you plan to fish-in cycle definitely make sure you have Prime, Stability and a liquid API test kit

Amazon has them, pet shops too.

Also a heater is important. High 70s-82 is the best for their little cold-blooded bodies.

Most importantly yes, your instinct is correct, get him into a bigger tank. Good luck!
I’ll edit and link some of the stuff I mentioned.

u/Nparallelopposite · 3 pointsr/fishtank

Okay I see what your seeing now.

Okay so edit up in this bitch! OP, I read your strip wrong. Badly wrong.. You have no nitrite and no nitrate present in the tank based on this strip. Which means, you have noooo cycle at all started. You have "new tank syndrome" also known as your tank ain't cycled. (How long have you had this tank? Have you ever cycled a tank before?)You have no beneficial bacteria eating the poo and pee as it breaks down! And no ammonia test on this strip so we can't even tell for sure how bad the fish are. You need to get a master fresh water testing kit from either a pet store or from Amazon.. These come with little bottles of chemical plus little test tubes. Super easy. And 100% more reliable. Get yourself some seachem stability and if you don't already have a water conditioner/dechlorinater, get some seachem prime while your out shopping..all this should cost you about...50$ or less? I provided a link to the api master test kit. Apis a very reliable brand. I have their set as well. I posted links at the bottom of this comment for Amazon.

Follow what I said above about cycling. This is technically going to be fish present cycling, since at this point I'm sure you have a lot of fish and no other place to keep them so let's do this ;

Daily; Test water with master kit. You only have to test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. (Uonless you are using RO water, your pH should be fine for the fish you have. The pH on the strip is about average. The strips really only seem to be good for pH to be honest.), if you have any ammonia or nitrite values, replace the water with fresh dechlorinated water, add beneficial bacteria and then test again the next day until ammonia &nitrite are 0 and nitrate finally shows up. Once that shows, you're cycled and can proceed to just test weelyl or bi weekly and do 50-75% water changes biweekly or monthly depending on how high their nitrate levels are. Try to stick to less than 40ppm and change it if that goes higher.

But since you have no nitrate value at all, you have no cycle. Which means the fish are probably in an early stage of chemical burns due to high ammonia levels. Theyee gills are burning and are having trouble breathing. But since the test strips do not have ammonia on them as a testing option, we don't know how bad it is. We can only assume based on how they are acting.. OP please do a 75% water change of your tank today and continue with 50% changes daily until your cycle is built up to keep your fish from dying.

Master test kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549134324&sr=8-3&keywords=master+freshwater+test+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51FQhbpfB0L&ref=plSrch

Seachem stability ( beneficial bacteria)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APIIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549134417&sr=8-2&keywords=seachem+stability

Seachem prime ( water conditioner/dechlorinator)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00025694O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549134471&sr=8-3&keywords=seachem+prime&dpPl=1&dpID=41Q0rRc8NML&ref=plSrch

( You can get the smaller bottles of seachem but it's better to get the 500ml price wise due to the fact you'll always need them. Total cost of all this, on Amazon at least will be about 49$ + tax)

u/BlerpDerps · 2 pointsr/bettafish

I've had him for over a year now but I had an ammonia spike that resulted in an unstable biofilter for an embarrassingly amount of time towards the end of 2018. (I was going on vacation for 4 days and didn't know that he could, in theory, be fine for up to a week w/out food so I used one those dumb slow release food things for bettas. Never again.) I really didn't want to just start from scratch and have to do an in-fish cycle but I just couldn't get the biofilter stabilized so I started from scratch and seized the opportunity to move him from a 5.5G to a 10G, use better gravel, and get some live plants in there too. I used Dr.Tim's One and Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria, Seachem's Stability (to help boost the filter), and did daily water changes. I was also dosing Seachem's StressGuard daily during and after the biofilter was established for ~1.5 months and have been dosing it 1-2 times weekly since.

u/tylr10213 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

It sounds like your on the right path. I would dose prime on days your not water changing tho just to detoxify the ammonia. Would also pick up some kind of bacteria in a bottle I’ve had great success with tetra safe start plus another option is seachem stability

Good luck

u/Anat1dae · 2 pointsr/bettafish

At the least, adding some bottled bacteria like Seachem Stability (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW) will help the growth of benefical bacteria to create a healthier environment for your fish

u/AzarothEaterOfSouls · 2 pointsr/fishtank

Add some of the filter media from the old tank into the new tank, that will help get the good bacteria into the water. Don't put any fish in there until you can test the water to make sure the levels are correct. Adding some Seachem Stability can also help start the bacterial cycle if moving some filter media and rocks doesn't do it for some reason (it should though). I have had good luck, when cycling a new aquarium, to "feed" it as if there were fish even if there are none. Just putting in a tiny amount of food, about what you would give a fish if it were in there, gives the bacteria something to eat and coupled with the filter media from an established tank should get your new tank cycled completely within a week or so. Having a test kit, or at least strips on hand to check water levels every so often is good just to make sure that the tank is doing OK and then if something does go wrong you can see what it is, so I would buy your own supply if you can. If the betta is doing good in the old tank I would leave him there until you can make sure the new tank is safe for him. Also, you can join us over at /r/bettafish if you want to share pics of him or are looking for betta specific advice.

u/UrbanTrucker · 1 pointr/turtle

Do you add beneficial bacteria to your water/filter. It's likely a lack of proper bacteria in the filtration system causing the cloudy water.

There are different options but here is one example from Amazon. Anytime you do a full water change or replace the media in the filter, it's a good idea to add more bacteria into the water.

u/Ask461 · 1 pointr/bettafish

API test kit - to test your parameters and see how much you have in ammonia and nitrites and nitrates
Stability - this is beneficial bacteria that will help cycle your tank. This doesn’t replace working on your cycle by doing water changes
betta safe - this is your conditioner that detoxis or removes and impurities of your water. I would suggest getting this in the future instead. Helps better with ammonia too prime
These are the hearty plants I like and are easy to upkeep depending on your light anubias

Hope this helps... most of all look into water changes and cycling...

u/nuffced · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

I use this stuff.

u/xXJuanSanXx · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

https://www.amazon.com/Nutrafin-Biological-Filter-Supplement-16-9-Ounce/dp/B0026C8YMQ


Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APIIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469731003&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=seachem+stability&dpPl=1&dpID=412%2BoGRMHYL&ref=plSrch


I use both and have great results. With 25% water changes every other day adding after and anywhere from 2-6 weeks it should be cycled. Be patient, this is probably he most tedious part in owning a tank but you will save a lot of time and money in the long run with a properly cycled tank

u/flowstone · 1 pointr/bettafish

Since you JUST got the tank, you need to cycle out 25% of the water at least every 3 days. Your nitrate cycle isn't established yet.

A small bottle of Stability can help you accelerate that cycle.

Pretty kickass you impulse purchased a betta and immediately got a 5 gallon tank with heat and temp. BTW, the current seemed too strong at first, but he will adjust as he gets stronger. Trust me.