Reddit reviews Solder Sucker- desoldering pump

its a solder sucker.

I highly recommend the Hakko 936 soldering iron Hakko 888 soldering iron, which is still actually available. It's hard to fathom how a $100 soldering iron could be that much better than a $20 one, but once you start doing anything more serious than just sticking some wires together, it's worth it.

As for other tools,

• Standard needle nose, dikes, and pliers set
  
• Tweezers - Additionally plastic ones if you're going to do PCB etching.
  
• Dental Picks - for positioning surface mount parts and pushing wires into molten solder.
  
• Wire strippers - You'll often see people using the combo wire stripper / crimpers. They're not as nice as a real pair of strippers.
  
• +/-12V power supply for basic analog electronics, 5V for digital work
  
• Breadboard
  
• Solder sucker - Copper braid is useful for the same thing, but given the choice of the two, I prefer the sucker to undo soldered joints.
  
• 30x Jewelers Loupe - Mostly useful for surface mount work, but pretty much all soldering is easier when you're able to look at it.
  
  As for components, I've been buying them piece-meal for years, so other's will probably be able to yield you a better recommendation for kits than anything I can find just from a quick search. I do mostly digital work, so as far as passives, my main stock is:
  
  
• 0.1uF and 100uF capacitors, 25V
  
• 100, 330, 1k, 4.7k, 10k, 100k, 1M resistors
  
  If I need any other resistor for a specific project, I'll tend to just buy an extra 10 and keep them in labeled coin envelopes.
  
  Random other pieces:
  
  
• Precut Breadboard jumper wires
  
• 7805 - 1A 5V linear regulators
  
• 1N4007 diodes
  
• 1N4148 small signal diodes
  
• 3V linear regulators if you do low power work (MSP430, etc)
  
• An Arduino - If not for real projects, I use this a lot to hack together crude digital signal generators to test other chips.
  
• LEDs - I found a good deal on bright red ones, but any will do
  
• push buttons, power switches, DIP switches (4 in a tiny package that fits in breadboards)
  
• Copper clad perf board - To make through-hole projects permanent. Be careful because this also comes without the copper pads, which is just more of a pain in the ass to use.
  
• Copper Solder braid
  
  Edit: Fixed the soldering iron model.
  
  Disclaimer: I'm using my Amazon Associate links for all of these, which always feel a little amoral and a conflict of interest, but really, if my apartment were to go up in flames and I could afford it, I'd buy every link on this list right now. Does anyone have strong opinions one way or the other on using them?

How come they don't make tools like a caulk sucker similar to a solder sucker? https://www.amazon.ca/Steren-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

Is too much caulk usually not a problem?

To mention some other homebrewing supplies and tools that haven't come up here:

• Copper Clad PCB Board for Manhattan or Dead Bug or Island Pad circuit construction.
  
• Perf Board for circuits involving many IC's or other 0.1"-spaced leads.
  
• A Solder Sucker, for clearing solder from perf-board
  
• Solder Wick, for removing solder from things that aren't plated holes.
  
• A cheapie Rotary Tool, for making isolation pads, cutting boards, rounding off edges.
  
• A decent multimeter - decent used to mean something in that $30-$50 range, but now even down in the sub-$20 range you're looking at plus/minus 0.5% accuracy for voltage measurements, which is good enough for most homebrew purposes. Whatever you do, get one with a continuity alarm! A $6 meter without one is a $6 waste of your money.
  
• A decent Soldering Iron. I spent years thinking I was bad at soldering, turns out I was bad at buying soldering irons. A 15W radioshack fixed iron with a fat tip will do you no good. The 50W adjustable pencil linked here it solid, though many people (myself included) prefer a soldering station
  
• A pair of fine need nose pliers and a flush cutter. Xuron is the name brand, but excelite or hakko or most others are fine.
  
  

Maybe a desolder vacuum hand pump tool. Like
Wemake Solder Sucker- Desoldering Vacuum Pump https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002KRAAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9luDb9E68W8N

I don't have any suggestions on soldering irons, but I do recommend a brass wire sponge over a regular sponge for tip cleaning.

They work great and don't require any water. I personally feel they are better for your iron tip and don't get nasty like a sponge can.

Something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PDQORU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1373850851&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX112_SY192


Edit: that weller above that you listed is a good iron. Because you are doing SMD as well I would also recommend a solder sucker, as I call them ha.

This here http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KRAAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1373851104&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX112_SY192

Helps a ton if you get solder is the wrong place or need to take some off or out of a through hole.

Lastly, these third hands can be a life saver at times if you will be working alone often. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RB38X8/ref=pd_aw_sim_indust_2?pi=SL500_SY115

Good luck!

My advice is to pick up a soldering heat sink to clip onto the board so you don't damage other components while desoldering, and pick up a desoldering tool and some solder wick. I suggest trying to wick the solder first - I find it easier to work with than a solder sucker.

De-solder each through-hole individually and you should be able to get it out without damaging the rest of the board.

I sincerely doubt you'll be able to salvage the broken piece and TBH it isn't worth the trouble - parts are so cheap that you would be better off replacing it. Check out Mouser and Digikey. The laptop's user guide/literature should have the exact specifications for power-in. In my experience, Mouser is faster to ship. Also worth mentioning that both places sell soldering/desoldering tools.

Good luck!

Might be worth getting a solder wick for when you inevitably screw up. Solder vacuum isn't a terrible idea either. I have both, I use them for different things. A third hand is also useful. I find myself using the glass more than the arms but it's all useful. If the iron you buy doesn't come with one a brass ball is great for keeping your tip clean without cooling it off like a sponge will. Micro-cutter is useful, not sure if angled or straight is better, up to you I guess. Last but not least a pair of angled tweezers. You can get those anywhere.

These are all the things I have within arm's reach when I'm doing a project. Have fun!

This is my go to list for what you need for soldering:


hakko soldering iron w/ diagonal cutters $91

hakko diagonal cutters $4.37

solder $7

solder sucker $6

solder flux $8 check digikey

solder wick $7 check digikey

wire strippers $10

helping hands $7 check harbor freight

check for lower price

One of the hakko clone stations paired with some genuine hakko tips is probably a good compromise on price/value. Maybe someone else that's from the UK could suggest something different that's also affordable there.

Use a decent soldering iron and get one of these. Proceed carefully, don't rip up the pads, and keep the temperature as low as possible (while still melting the solder). Desoldering can be tedious, but you'll get there.

And no---no cool down necessary. So long as your iron isn't blazing hot, the PCB plastic can take it.

Try a solder sucker

Well, first your going to need to get a Solder Sucker of some variety, there are many out there, some cheap ones all the way up to very expensive vacuum powered rework stations. Recovery is going to be little more difficult, can I ask why you're trying to recover the solder?

Do you mean your going to attempt to reuse it?

Even if you do collect all the solder you "suck" that solder will be "dead". It won't have any flux in it, and you really won't be able to work with it again. Even doing little bits of rework or repair I usually completely clean the connection and go with new fluxcore solder else dope the area with flux before attempting any work.

Maybe, maybe not. Get a solder sucker. Something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-060820-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0 Heat up the blobbers and suck them off and redo them.

Simplest way to solder is to touch the tip so it contacts the PCB connection and the component lead for a couple seconds and then lightly touch the tip of the spool of solder to that point, it will flow right on to both points, or touch the solder to the tip of the iron right above that point and the solder will flow down onto the connection, leave the tip there for a second or two and then remove it. It should cool and leave a shiny solder joint. If it's kind of murky grey like a lot of those on your PCB, the solder wasn't hot enough when you removed the heat.

Getting a tip that has a small point is super helpful. A decent soldering iron makes everything so much easier as well. https://gokimco.com/weller-wlc100-40-watt-hobbyist-solder-station.html?gdffi=a2b2595eeb2e44a8bc2e332d298712bc&gdfms=EE997BA12347416BA1AEAC65CC33CFA0&gclid=CNXf4euHiM0CFUpZhgodW2kIkg This is a good cheap one. The ones that are like 25 bucks from Radioshack are garbage.

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

• DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)
  
  
• clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp
  
  
• variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one
  
  
• 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind
  
  
• desolder braid
  
  
• rosin flux
  
  
• contact cleaner
  
  
• (de-oxit d-5)[http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/]
  
  
• flush cutters
  
  
• solder sucker
  
  
• shrink tube of various diameters
  
  
• 92%+ isopropyl alcohol
  
  
• windex
  
  
• q-tips
  
  
• paper towels
  
  
• needle nose pliers
  
  
• nice set of phillips head screwdrivers
  
  
• standard screwdriver
  
  
• miner's headlamp
  
  
• digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly
  
  
• printer for printing service manuals
  
  
• heat gunor hair dryer
  
  
• canned air
  
  
  EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.
  
  All I can think of right now.

You can remove most of the solder by heating the solder and using a solder sucker. I feel like the clasp would probably go between the two pieces and not on top but am really not sure by looking at it.

I'd probably take it a jeweler and just ask them. If it can't be repaired and it doesn't have too much sentimental value then you could purchase her one.

Soldering iron: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M

Edit: most people recommend getting a chisel tip for the soldering iron. Big tips for big jobs, small tips for small jobs. Just having the pencil tip and one chisel will get you by for a long time.

Desoldering braid: https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17542-Desoldering-2-5mm-Length/dp/B003E48ERU/

Desoldering pump: https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

You want both the pump and the braid. Get thin solder for electronics. You should probably use lead-free, but I like good old 60/40.

There are a ton of suggestions on multimeters. The exact right one for you depends on what you eventually want to do. Dave Jone's EEVBlog has some good suggestions. As does Adafruit. Anything Adafruit recommends isn't too far off the mark. If you just want a suggestion: Extech EX330 for $45 https://www.amazon.com/Extech-EX330-Autoranging-Multimeter-Thermometer/dp/B000EX0AE4 Cheaper ones will do the job, but this is a better one. The next step up are True RMS meters for about $100.

Here are some useful links: Link; Link; Link. The Marantz cost about $58 using good quality replacements. I did a H/K 330B for $9.58. The Marantz 2285 I am working on cost about $90 for parts.

 

You will need a decent soldering iron; solder sucker; desoldering braid; lead solder; flux; and most importantly a multimeter. Here is another gear thread. Most of the manuals are available on Hifiengine. What you can't find there you can check the forums or Sams. Manuals on Fleabay should be an absolute last resort.

 

I would recommend going to a local thrift store and getting some practice junker units. It will take you some time to good at it and you certainly don't want to screw up your good unit. I still don't know anywhere near enough to do more than replace the parts and do basic troubleshooting. Fortunately for people like us, there are a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable persons on the forums who are always willing to lend a hand. Edit: Forgot about the Dim Bulb Tester.

https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

a) yes, it seems pretty much the same. For the most uses, most DMMs (Digital Multi Meter) will work just fine. Your basic needs are to have a couple of different ranges for both voltage and ampacity readings (i'm refering to the accuracy of the readings here... a DVM generally has 3 or 4 characters on the screen to describe the charactieristic. one range will cover, let's say up to 2 millivolts, and the next will cover up to 2 volts, the next up to 20... you'll figure it out). another major tool on the DVM is an audible continuity tester. these just make a tone when you have a clean circuit path between points a and b. Big help. That one you linked up seems pretty decent.... when you start wiring houses or something, then you can think about upgradign into a fluke handheld or a benchtop if you're doing big fancy circuits, but that'd be fine for quite a while.

I'll tell you, my Iron Experience is pretty dang limited. but this is what i know. As far as a soldering iron goes, one of the major considerations is the power rating, i.e. the wattage ratings... i think mine is about 30W, and it works just fine. If i had my druthers I'd go to one of those variable ones that can get up to ~800 degrees. I'd also definitely consider one that comes with a proper resting stand. An operating soldering iron is a pretty big safety issue, in that it is a burning hot iron tip hanging around on a surface that may or may not be covered in flammable material or human flesh.

As far as de-soldering irons go, at school i have access to those fancy powered vacuum ones... I just take any desoldering tasks i have over there because they are the cats meow. I've used those l'il non-powered vacuum tubes and i think they are going to take a lot of skill and training to get to use efficiently. i didn't like them. I've never used or seen this type

I would heavily suggest getting one of these https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

As far as the solder goes as long as the 5v pad isn't connected to that center pad you will be fine, the solder can remain on the pads as long as the pads aren't connected

On a another note if they are connected put your solder gun on a low heat setting (Just barely melting the solder) And using your solder gun to carry some of the excess away

https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

Five bucks

this works fine

https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

In addition to this, a solder sucker is both helpful and fun. In all seriousness, it makes the part pull so much easier when all of the old solder is completely removed. Makes for a cleaner re-application of the replacement part as well.

You should also buy a "solder sucker" (
http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG ) which is a vacuum pump, to remove the solder when you heat it up.

That will help prevent damage to the circuit board foil 'traces' which can break or lift off the board if you just heat the solder and wiggle/pull the cap. Also some components are soldered to traces on both sides of the board.

Many Dell and HP pcs had the problem for several years, our company had many models replaced under warranty. They would typically fail after 2 or 3 years. Tops of the caps were bulged or had white or yellow powder coming out of the top.

Be interesting to see if a spring-loaded solder sucker would work.

I know lead is bad for us, but is that why or does lead-free heat up/bond better?

I've got a solder sucker. I'm sure it's the same thing.

If I had nothing and wanted to purchase decent quality stuff but still being affordable, I'd do the following.

Multimeter $45

Soldering Station $38

Solder $25

Desoldering Pump $6

If this is the only time you ever plan on soldering, then you can get away with the cheap stuff. You could probably source some of it locally for cheaper. None of this is great quality, but it will do the job for a 1 time project. While I wouldn't enjoy it, I could build an Ergodox with the following setup.

Desoldering Pump $6

Multimeter $13

Solder $9

Soldering Iron $8

Iron Holder $6

I'm basically in the same boat as you so I cant help you much but here's some places that can.

https://youtu.be/gDbVtbLJicA
I haven't watched that video but there are is a few on YouTube.

try doing a search here and if you still have questions do a post.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/

Thsee are two highly rated soldering stations on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1427285096&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=soldering+iron

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ANZRT4M/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?qid=1427285346&sr=8-19&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=soldering+iron&dpPl=1&dpID=41sCMxh%2BAYL&ref=plSrch

And you may want to get these

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RB38X8/ref=pd_aw_fbt__hi_img_2?refRID=04241AVDK89CA7JZ7G53

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KRAAG/ref=pd_aw_fbt__hi_img_3?refRID=05VW456WDCV7D1PTHEPE

You may want to start with an unregulated or an okr or raptor build. It'll be cheaper and its easy to find tutorials on building them online. That is probably what I will start with.

Solder sucker http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KRAAG?vs=1

Also get a solder sucker. You'll use it far more than the wick.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KRAAG?pc_redir=1408420045&robot_redir=1

Edit: So why the downvote? Does someone not like solder suckers?

Looks like you've started down the road to learning how to make your own cables, and you need some guidance while you're practicing.


This page has a nice picture of good, bad and ugly results. Yours are not bad for a beginner but ... ugly.


This set of search results will provide lots of information. Read as much as you can.


Here's what I use for guitar cable soldering tools. The links are for explanation. You don't have to get them at Amazon. An electronics store will have them. You may decide it's less expensive to buy the patch cables. But, if you are a do it yourself type, the tools will pay for themselves.

Weller 25W iron Get some extra chisel tips. They get destroyed quickly by noobs.


Helping hands


Wire stripper


Solder sucker


Brass wool solder iron cleaner


63/37/resin core .6mm solder

Not really, just need a soldering iron and a desoldering pump
You can find some tutorials on Youtube.
Try to find a soldering iron with a small end.

This is what a desoldering pump looks like.
It's kind of easy to use

After that, you can get some LEDs and/or some of these. It's really simple to wire.

If you're just dipping your toe in the water, grab that Weller I linked. It's under $40, but is a well respected budget iron. I personally own a Weller WES51. It's a fantastic iron, but if you're not convinced that soldering things is going to become a hobby, save your money.

Hakko is also a popular brand, but I'm not as familiar with their lower-end gear. If you get an adjustable temp iron from Hakko or Weller, you'll be set for a while.

Some other handy items are:

• Desoldering Wick - Just a copper braid that will suck up solder. Great for removing parts from the board.
  
• Solder Sucker - A cheap little vacuum that is supposed to suck the liquid solder off of a joint. I personally prefer the wick with a dab of flux. Others swear by the solder sucker. Both are cheap enough, so grab both and see what you prefer :)
  
• Rosin Flux - a chemical that helps strip corrosion from your contacts, allowing the solder to flow smoothly and create solid joints. There are a lot of versions, but I've preferred using a pen like this one. It can (and will) make a sticky mess, so only use tiny, tiny amounts. (If you use the pen, keep a giant wad of paper towels nearby for when you need to get the flow going. I tried doing it with my hand...it makes a MASSIVE mess. The paper towels help immediately soak up the unexpected flow of rosin.
  
• Helping Hands - Cannot recommend this enough. Typically, you'll see things like this one. But after a while, the joints weaken, and it won't hold anything in place. I bought a SparkFun Third Hand which is amazingly stiff and has held up quite well. Great purchase.
  
  Other things to consider are goggles, a small fan to pull the fumes away from you (DON'T BLOW ON THE JOINTS), and something to solder on top of. If you don't care about your work surface, it's no big deal. But I use my desk, and sometimes the kitchen table, so I have an old 1 foot ceramic tile that I solder on top of -- the soldering iron base doesn't get hot, but you can drip/splatter solder if you're being careless, and it gives you a hard surface to use that you don't have to worry about getting hot/burned.

You need a solder sucker. Heat one point at a time and suck out the molten solder. Start on to the next one. Don't know the real name but they are available at most elec. stores. Try this link in amazon. https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

I got this iron: http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station-Features-Continuously-Variable/dp/B0029N70WM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1413223923&sr=8-7&keywords=soldering+iron but for throughhole work a pen is fine.

the elenco soldering kit I got was this: http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-FM-88K-FM-Radio-Kit/dp/B004YHZE0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413223964&sr=8-1&keywords=elenco+fm

you can get a flux pen, is that what you're asking? you probably won't need one for throughhole work but this one's good: http://www.amazon.com/SRA-Soldering-Flux-Low-Solids-No-Clean/dp/B008OC0E5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413223992&sr=8-1&keywords=flux+pen

solder pump: http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Solder-Sucker--desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413224011&sr=8-1&keywords=solder+pump

soldering wick: http://www.amazon.com/Aven-17542-Desoldering-2-5mm-Length/dp/B003E48ERU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413224038&sr=8-1&keywords=soldering+wick

and solder: http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-AT-31604-60-40-Solder-Ounces/dp/B00030AP48/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413224060&sr=8-3&keywords=alpha+fry

You'll need a solder pump and a reamer to get the broken pin out. Put the board in a vise/third-hand tool or whatever. You need to be able to work on both sides of it. Apply your soldering iron to one side and have the solder pump on the other. When the solder is melted you fire the pump and it will suck the solder and hopefully the pin out. You can use the reamer to make the hole a little bigger and get some tinned wire in there.

Solder sucker/pump

Soldering tools

The reamer is the second one from the left. I'm pretty sure RadioShack sells both.

If you can, get a cheap solder sucker. I desoldered ALL switches from my g710+ and it was a dream with this guy

I just bought this and this when i swapped my MX switches out. I mean i guess if you want to get into the SMD hobby it wont be the best, but for just general stuff or using it once in a blue moon to mod your KB it's been perfectly fine.

Oh and this and this helped alot.

When soldering to the header, should I do it to the long or short side?

Do you have any suggestions for solder suckers that work well for the size of work here? I'm looking at this one on amazon but it seems like the opening may be too large. Thoughts?

Great job. Though you need to get yourself one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG

You might find a solder sucker - https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG.
Or some de-soldering braid/wick - https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Clean-Desoldering-Length/dp/B00424S2C8 useful for removing the solder easily when removing header pins. Also before you try de-soldering, remove the plastic part from the pins by pulling it off with some pliars, this allows you to remove the pins 1 by 1, preventing the solder pads getting to hot and coming off.

Is it necessary to clean up flux? Almost never. Is it a good idea to do it anyway? I'd say so. Here's a good article about all things solder and flux to bring you up to speed.

Flux is SUPER carcinogenic, or so I've been lead to believe, and it also causes serious gastrointestinal issues if ingested, in even relatively small amounts. I generally try to leave all the circuit boards I work on clean of big globs of flux, but I'm no perfectionist. Flux is non-conductive, so don't worry if you leave a bunch behind or it looks like the flux might be bridging a connection. I oftentimes leave smaller flux contamination spots on the board, unless it's in a spot where I'd be likely to touch next time I'm handling the board.

Here's a pretty good soldering iron, the Hakko FX-888. It's more than enough iron to last you through all your projects in the foreseeable future, and it comes with extra tips and a tip cleaning canister. To be honest, though, it's pretty expensive, and I totally understand if it's out of your price range. Personally, I use a Chinese clone, which works extremely well, for what I paid for it.

I'd also recommend anyone working on anything with a soldering iron to get a set of helping hands. Finding one which isn't broken or of shit quality is a real crapshoot, but, once you have one that works, you'll wonder how you ever got by without one. Personally, I recommend spending the cash to get one with some sort of LED built in, but here's a link to a cheap and functional set of helping hands.

If you're going to be desoldering things often (or trying to make beautiful solder joints), you definitely want to get yourself some desoldering braid, which is just stranded copper wire filled with flux paste. When you put heat to the top of the braid and put the bottom of the braid on the component, the braid will wick excess solder from the component. Once you master using this stuff, it's a real boon for disassembly (or cleanup of solder blobs). You might also want to look into a desoldering pump, which is okay for some things, but not nearly as versatile as desoldering braid.

Last, but certainly not least, is having the right solder for the job. Personally, I use silver bearing solder, because I've been told it is more resistant to cold joints, and slightly more conductive. Here's a link to a spool of silver bearing solder, which I'd buy, were I in the market for a new spool.

One more link for you... When I was looking for a link to that Chinese clone soldering station, I stumbled on this DIY SMD soldering practice kit. Might be worth your time to invest in one and try your luck. For $2, it's a great way to go from soldering zero to soldering hero in a day or two. Also, check this page for more DIY kit ideas.

Let me know if you have any more questions! My inbox is always available, if you'd feel more comfortable PM'ing me questions, too. (That goes for anyone who needs a hand, not just /u/websurferathome)

I typed up a great list last night, then somehow, I managed to screw it up and lost the whole thing. So I decided to heck with it... and found a beer.

Let's try again.

Standard tools:

• screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, sockets, and most important, hollow point nut drivers. I got set from Sears on sale for about $20. You don't usually need the metric ones, but I love the zipper case they came in. It's worth the $20 alone if you ask me.
  
  Standard tools with more specific uses:
  
  
• You need a decent multimeter. It doesn't have to be fancy, I have a $300 Fluke that works just as good as a little cheapie that I got for free. And vice versa. The fluke does make somethings easier, like it's autoranging and has longer and better leads, but for just getting started, you should be able to pick up something decent for $20.
  
• You'll also need a soldering iron. Get a pencil, not a gun. Guns get too hot for most things. There are times when they are great in a pinball, like soldering coil lugs, but for most solder work, a cheap 25 watt pencil will get you by. I used cheapies for almost 10 years before I finally got a nice hakko and now I don't know how I ever lived without it.
  
• You'll also probably need to learn how to desolder stuff as well. There are a couple ways to do it. It takes practice, and I'd strongly suggest practicing soldering on junk boards before ever going at a pinball board. To desolder, there is the cheap way or you can spend a lot of money on a pricey desoldering system. I got one of these when I got my Hakko soldering iron. I love it, I don't know how I ever lived without it, but I also know that it's very expensive, especially if there are still a lot of other tools you don't have yet.
  
• We've already talked about you may need to replace some pins in your board connectors. You need two tools for that. First, you need a Molex Flat Pin Extractor. This lets you get the pins and wires out of the housings. You don't have to have it, you could cut the wires and use new housings, but those housings are increasingly difficult to find and it's not the housing that's a problem, it's the pins inside. This tool lets you extract the pin from the housing, cut it off, strip your wire and crimp on a new pin to slide back in to the housing.
  
• Speaking of crimping on a new pin... You're going to need Pin Crimpers for that. I have the yellow pair and they work great for most everything pinball. Yes, I technically also have some much more expensive ratcheting pin crimpers, but honestly, I tend to use these cheaper ones more. I don't really know why.
  
  Finally, pinball specific tools:
  
  
• Flexstones are used for cleaning contacts on switches. You want to be a little careful with these though... they're meant for some of the heavier switches. Often times, a business card will clean the gunk out well enough and doesn't risk destroying the contact points on the switch.
  
• Palnut removal tool is a very handy tool. Until you need one, it's kinda hard to describe what it's for, but trust me, you want one if you're going to try and take the plastics off your playfield posts to replace rubbers or change light bulbs. It's not really necessary, but for the money, it's a damn handy tool.
  
• Contact Adjuster is also a very handy tool. More for older EM games with lots of relays than for solid state games, but I mention it because Hulk, like many early solid state Gottliebs likely has a couple relays inside. It's unlikely you'll need this tool for Hulk, but it is a handy one to have around. Especially if you think you're going to be working on anything older.
  
  That should be about it. At least to get started. Depending on where you go from there, there are a bazillion things you could spend money on. But since you only have one machine right now, this basic list should take you a very long way. And don't kill yourself buying a ton of expensive specialty tools like fancy soldering irons if you don't think this is something you'll want to do a lot of. If you decide you like it and want to spend more money later, those are great upgrades.

http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG make sure you have one of these. SO goddamn handy

If you're going to do it yourself get a soldering iron and a de-soldering pump. Then check online for the schematics, places like this. Replace all the capacitors first and you'll probably fix the problem.

Once you get a new board, it would be a great idea to experiment with the old board. My first board was a Ducky Shine 3, and once I moved on I defs swapped LEDs and practiced soldering on it. It's a good investment to play with cheaper / worthless boards and parts before you accidentally bork your custom c:

To replace the switches, you'll need a solder sucker and a soldering iron. Those are the tools I use, and have used for the past 2-3 years. They're serving me well. I am very impressed with the soldering iron, as it's fairly reasonably priced (but YMMV, if you want the for-sure high quality iron Weller is highly recommended). Whatcha do is heat up the solder joints for the switches using the soldering iron (320-350C is good for temp), then quickly remove the soldering iron and put the solder sucker flush with the PCB above the joint. Press the button on the sucker and (if you were fast enough) it'll pull the melted solder off the board and into the sucker. Rinse and repeat for the rest of the switches. You will need to desolder all switches and LEDs before you can remove them, as they're likely plate mounted. After everything is desoldered and out, just put the new switches into position and solder 'em in. There are many good youtube videos on how to solder, but basically you just heat the joint (320-350C) and apply solder until you have a 'peak', whereas the solder is on the PCB touching the pad and it forms a nice peak to the top of the switch leg. (Peaking ensures that you have visual contact between the PCB and switch leg, which is why it's the go-to method).

After that you can get into cooler mods. Lube switches, clip and lube stabs, sip sockets, holtites, custom layouts, handwiring, building your own firmware... you can really go nuts if you want, it's all up to you. LMK if you have any other questions!