Reddit reviews Stanley 85-753 22 Piece Long Arm SAE & Metric Hex Key Set
We found 8 Reddit comments about Stanley 85-753 22 Piece Long Arm SAE & Metric Hex Key Set. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Wrenches meet or exceed ANSI/ASME B18.3 specificationsChamfered hex key edges to give better fit and reduce stripped fastenersBlack oxide finish resists rustDurable caddy keeps keys organized and has marked slots for each keyBacked by a limited lifetime warranty
The PH-1 set isn't bad, but for my money I'll go with the $13 Stanley Long-Arm set any day.
I would just buy a complete set of hex/allen keys. They don't cost that much and are useful for other things as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-753-Piece-Long-Metric/dp/B000NIFJQE/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1452031562&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+key+set
The kit lacks a hex wrench set, which is a central fixture in any bicycle toolkit. Whether or not you buy that set, you won't get far without metric hex wrenches. The fact that they omitted such an important piece makes me really skeptical about the rest of it.
I have an SAE/Metric set of Stanley hex wrenches, similar to this $10 set. They've been serving me well for years (except the 4mm wrench that I lost X_X).
Maybe if you really needed to, but seriously, just buy a set of allen keys. I got mine for 11.50$ on amazon and they have been as reliable as I could ask for. In fact, here.
Local hardware store have Hex key setHex key set for cheap. Most atomizers uses the 2nd smallest one.
7 for two sets, one 'murikan, and one metric
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-753-Piece-Long-Metric/dp/B000NIFJQE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499360414&sr=8-3&keywords=allen+key+set
10 and 14mm? I've NEVER seen hex bolts that big on a bike - they would correspond to M12 and M16 SHCS - so, half an inch diameter screws. you may be thinking of cone wrenches, which would vary based on hub manufacturer (and on older bikes, headsets).
For hex wrenches/allen keys, you don't need the fancy T handled wrenches. They're nice, but they're a luxury. If you're going cheap, just get a normal set of metric hex wrenches (like this - bonus SAE wrenches to boot http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-753-Piece-Long-Metric/dp/B000NIFJQE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405808907&sr=8-1&keywords=metric+hex+key+set ) or a folding set if you want something to take with you (but don't expect to be able to get crankarms off with it!) http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Tool-AWS-11-Metric-Folding/dp/B000OZFI76/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1405808982&sr=8-5&keywords=park+tool+folding
If you have a fancier bike with carbon components, or want to get serious about bike maintenance, do yourself and your bike a favor and buy a torque wrench and a set of hex bits. The smaller bolts with lower torques (2-5 Nm range) tend to be the ones you'll overtorque and damage parts, so start with a torque wrench with a low range first. You can add the larger torque wrench (~10-75 Nm range) later.
Other than that, just get the tools for the jobs you end up doing on your bike. A chain breaker is a must, and cone wrenches for your hub (if it uses them) are great to have.
Learn how to adjust your brakes. Again, takes 30 seconds to learn and you can do it within 10. All you need is a hex wrench (probably 5mm).
Learn how to clean your chain. It's easy to just put the bike up when you're done, but wipe the grime off your chain RIGHT AFTER the ride. Doing this keeps it down to a lower amount and reduces wear. Also, remember to wipe the cogs in the rear derailleur when you wipe the chain too.
I would suggest buying a towel and a few rags dedicated to this. The towel to cover the floor (if you do it inside) and rags to wipe off the bike. If you have a hose that always helps. I don't.
But if you get the bike wet, wipe standing water off. The bike is resilient but rust creeps in over time and ruins the look.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-753-Piece-Long-Metric/dp/B000NIFJQE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398374834&sr=8-1&keywords=hex+wrench+set
I got it and it's awesome. Lets you do virtually all maintenance sans BB removal and wheel truing on your bike. Seriously; you'll use the 4/5mm the most, and possibly the 3mm.
Get a floor pump for your house and grab some CO2/nossile for flat repair.
I normally carry 1/2 tubes, 2 CO2 canisters, 1 CO2 nossile, tire levers (you might not need those) on my ride in my jersey pockets. You can fix a flat in 5 minutes; no hassle.
So I would say now, to buy 3 tubes; 2 or one to carry with you, and one for a backup so you aren't left with a low number should you flat one day and need/want to ride the next.
Some people patch but I dont' flat enough to sweat 6 bucks a tube.
Those GP4000s tires are some of THE BEST tires you can buy right now for speed/durability/grip in wet/dry conditions. They really are magical.
Left pocket: Phone/ID/CC/Keys in a zip lock bag. Protects from rain and sweat.
Middle pocket: Tools/Tire levers/Gels/Chews/Food
Right pocket: Tubes
I actually have a storage bottle on my bike under the seat, so all of that goes in there; I just stash food and stuff in the back pocket now.
Also, if you get cycling shorts, and you should, you can put gels under the shorts on your legs for easy access and space saving.
In the past year, I've spent 100 dollars on bike maintenance stuff. That's on new tires. For stuff I needed anyway.
Lube lasts a long time, bar tape lasts a long time, quality gear lasts a long time.
The thing about bike maintenance is, it's kind of intimidating at first, especially if you're adjusting something and you don't "really" know what you're doing, but the physics are simple, and it's just a frame and parts held by tension on wires and some gears. Very simple.
If you get something changes/adjusted by somebody, try and stay and watch. Or, hell, ask to help. I had to recable my bike last month and just asked to help the guy to do it. Ended up taking a bit longer but I know exactly how to do it on my own now, and it cut the cost of 60 (which is on the low end, actually) to 30.
Last thing, I wouldn't worry too much about bottom bracket and wheel truing now; that requires special tools and isn't easily done without them. If you can afford to have that worked on, that's ok. (And those rarely need looking after, like once a year if you don't trash your stuff).