Reddit reviews StarTech.com 6in USB 2.0 A to USB 4 Pin to Motherboard Header Adapter F/F - USB cable - USB (F) to 4 pin USB 2.0 header (F) - USBMBADAPT

It only costs an extra 5 bucks.

$20 my ass. This is $4.50 with Prime shipping.

Don't really know what you are talking about but something like this could be used with every machine which has a internal USB header and every standard USB drive.

I put together a machine just a couple of months ago to replace my little consumer-grade router at home. I look at all of the options (the various ARM families, Atom, etc.) and wound up deciding that the best option was to go for the low end of the current generation of Intel x86 parts.

Here's what I threw together:

| Category | Part Name | Price Paid | Current Price |
|---------------|-----------------|-----------------|-----------------------|
| Motherboard | GA-H61M-HD2 | $49.99 | $54.99 |
| CPU | Celeron G1610 | $42.99 | $42.99 |
| Memory | 2x2GiB DDR3-1333 DIMMs | $30.78 | -- |
| Power Supply | Solid Gear Mini ITX 180W PSU | $26.78 | $26.78 |

At this point you've spent $150.54 and you have a small (9" by 9" or so) system (minus a hard drive) that will blow any of the more exotic options out of the water... and that runs your favorite OS just fine. It's got a gigabit network adapter onboard, as well as onboard video, which is at least a nice fallback if you have any trouble getting it set up as a server.

I spent $3.77 on a motherboard-header-to-female-USB adapter and $6.99 on a well-reviewed 8 GiB thumb drive and called it quits, since my usage (as a router) doesn't really need any storage.

Then I splurged for a passive CPU cooler; it's made by Supermicro for their 1U servers, installed very easily, and was all of $24.23. Now the only fan around is the tiny one in the PSU!

I added some of these network cards which add two gigabit ports for $30 each, but since it has the onboard gigabit port, you don't need to do that unless you need more than one port.

I had intended to put it in one of these cases, which comes with a questionable PSU, but it showed up broken and I never got around to re-ordering. It sits very happily on a little cardboard tray without a case. (Also, even the smallest cases are much larger than just the board, since they assume you might want to mount hard drives or optical drives.) One of these days I'll bust out the woodworking tools and build a teeny little case for it.

As a tiny little finishing touch, I spent $2 or $3 on a power button (and reset button, power LED, and hard drive LED; they came as a set) from someone on eBay.

By my count, my configuration was a total of $150.54 + $38.00 = $188.54 before the extra network adapters. If you like, add about $20 (for a total of ~$205) to remove the PSU and add a cheap case that comes with a PSU. (You can also skip buying the buttons and LEDs if you do this.)

I don't know how much power the machine itself uses, but the whole power strip (with Roku, Raspberry Pi, DSL gateway, a dual-band wireless access point, and probably some other things) uses about 100 watts.

I've been using this thing forever. I like your contraption as well. Installing mine upside-down results in frying your flash-drive. heh

Trying again. My previous attempt was removed by mods, not sure which link was in violation but I changed one of them:

Wow. Good going.

How about:

1. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/IYSHOUGONG-1-44MB-Floppy-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07QYYF36N
   
2. Paired with: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S
   
   BTW I have NO IDEA if that would work. But in theory you would think it would.
   
   Power cable into the adapter at #1 above is separate, but seems like that would be a legacy standard.
   
   Also, there is this:
   
   https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Olimex-Ltd/ARM-JTAG-20-10?qs=DUTFWDROaMbVQp3WoAdijQ%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKCAjwibzsBRAMEiwA1pHZrlxfq0xcms8HD_Vkh7lJCE2a9WGWQwkaVUBkFDo8g9iZXoZaFDNKKBoCQF0QAvD_BwE
   
   Datasheet PDF on that page is super-vague, so very much in the theme of 1995 All-Over-Again.
   
   If you get both 3.5" drives up and running, you should stripe them together into a RAID 0 !!!

I use them all the time. Works without issue.

https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525708548&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+to+motherboard

Edit: derp 3.0 not 2.0

As for the security of the USB port, moving the flash drive into the case can deter accidental or casual mischief.
If you have a spare USB header inside something like this lets you relocate the USB to inside.

After 2-3 years I have no problem using some ordinary SanDisk sticks. There is also a section in the FreeNAS manual for mirroring the boot device on 2x USB drives.'

EDIT: FreeNAS is unlikely to preserve the data from a Linux software RAID. In fact, probably can't read data from pretty much any other filesystem. May need to restore from a backup in order to load up the NAS.

You don't HAVE to have a gadget, or even an ETC device, with the nomad key dongle you can also output to sACN or Artnet. These nodes can be had for about half the price of the gadget II!

I also suggest doing what ETC does with their PUCK. They put the nomad key dongle inside the NCU to keep it from being lost or stolen. You can use something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S.

Might be too late for this, but I use the pictured controller dongle.

I recently bought one of these internal USB port adapters to connect it inside my case, and stuck it to the inside wall with velcro. Since my controller is already connected to it, theres no issues with is losing sync or anything. I might change my tune if I begin to have disconnection issues, but for now it seems like a good solution.

EDIT: The point being because of its size I'm always worried I'll accidentally snap it by brushing past my pc or something. With it secured inside the PC, that can't happen.

Transcend and PNY used to make them, called Internal USB Flash Module. Model fro the transcend was UFM-H. They are really too small to use these days, and expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Low-Profile-Drive-SDCZ33-032G-B35/dp/B00812F7O8
plus
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

Is a cheaper, better replacement (specifically, those cruzer fits are known to be very good.)

well if you have an open USB 2.0 header, you can use one of these to make an internal port.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

If you don't have an open header, then you could add an internal USB port with a PCI or PCIe card.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815124047&cm_re=pci_usb_header-_-15-124-047-_-Product

You could use something like this. I haven't heard of USB to SATA and even if there was you'd be limited by your flash drives transfer speeds.

EDIT: Oops, didn't see the laptop comment. The thing I posted won't work :/

Here are the amazon.ca links. The LED strip is a bit different but it is almost the same. You can control the colors on the litle dongle connected to it. As for USB power to the LEDS, there should be an option in your motherboard's BIOS to turn of USB power when you shutdown. Most motherboards today have that option.

http://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-USBMBADAPT-6-Inch-Female-Motherboard/dp/B000IV6S9S

http://www.amazon.ca/Lemonbest-120leds-Flexible-Changing-Waterproof/dp/B015R44RZC

As explained elsewhere in the thread, USB ports do have a bandwidth limit - you can't just use hubs to run an infinite number of devices simultaneously off a single port. Think of how much video data needs to flow through that single cable at the base of the Christmas tree every second...

Anyway, in response to your edit: yes, running a cable from the motherboard header may indeed help. You need more actual USB host controllers, not just more sockets, and the unused headers on your motherboard may provide that. No point installing additional USB controllers on a PCIe slot if you aren't making full use of the controllers on the motherboard.

Now, I don't know the internal configuration of your motherboard; there might be whole controllers you aren't using and there might just be an on-board hub. lsusb -t can help with that, as it will show you if there are any totally empty buses.

In case you didn't know, the header on the motherboard will use a different type of connector, and you'll need an adaptor a bit like this, or this if you want to make it neat. I'm not necessarily recommending those specific products, just showing you what they should look like. Note the different styles of header connector for USB2 and USB3.

Each header should support two USB ports without using any hubs, so with your motherboard you can gain six extra ports beyond those on the rear IO panel.

However, is there any chance of you telling us what you are ultimately trying to achieve here? I'm getting the feeling there might be an easier way...

> -First question involves booting it and running off a flash drive. While this feels like salvation in a lot of ways in contrast to dedicating a boot drive, my concerns are this: How would I go about 'booting' the USB drive from internally in the system? This would come from avoiding a physical environment of tampering/nudging/whatever? I understand after the initial boot, writes to the flash happens only through configuring, but it seems odd to me that a critical piece of the setup is outwardly accessible to whomever in a non-lockdown interface like a USB port.

Some motherboards, especially with server motherboards will have an onboard USB port. Mine has one and that is where one of my two boot USBs is.

Another option you can do is a SATADOM, although you lose a SATA port to this, but depending on your environment may be worth it.

Third option if you want would be to take the USB header on the motherboard that you would usually plug the front panel USB ports to and get something like this to connect to it and then leave the output inside the case: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

Why go to all that trouble when you buy an adapter for like $4?

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

So I see you're using that usb dongle for your internet. I feel ya, I've got one too, and it's not only unsightly but annoying to lug around when moving. I have yet to purchase this but I feel it'd be nice to have so I can hide the dongle in my case. It also helps because it frees up more usb space on your front I/O. just a thought I'v been having lately about my setup.

If you have extra USB headers on your motherboard I would get a USB port internally instead of using Molex. This will allow you to power and program the Arduino/LED strip. Something like this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_S7FMAb43HCRV7

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493676184&sr=8-2&keywords=internal+usb+header

Damage it? How? Is it a lan rig?

Also are you more concerned about how the case looks from behind than the cable mess that will be added inside the case?

Anyway it's your decision, you can get something like this.

The world is your oyster: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

​

Yes! As long as the BIOS will support booting from USB. Some older machines might not.

You could maybe use an adapter to put a thumb drive inside the case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IV6S9S

Heck, it might also have an IDE controller, so you could run the OS off IDE and storage off SATA.

You mean something like this?

Here's the Google search I used.

That is a great idea! Never thought of that. Is this what you are referring to? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_IE8pub177ZKM8

Flash drives and SSD's are almost exactly the same technology. There is really very little difference in the two if you buy a quality flash drive. I use the flash memory plugin on my SSD. I'm not sure it's 100% required since most SSD's support TRIM, but it doesn't hurt anything.

If you don't want to have your flash drive hanging outside the case.. and you have an internal motherboard header.. you can get a cable to plug the flash drive right into the header.... Obviously you would probably lose an external USB port, but it would protect against someone just snatching the flash drive out of your NAS. That is always my chief concern with external flash drives for the OS. To easy for someone to be looking for a flash drive, "find" the one on your server, then when windows can't write to it, formatting it and maybe not even realize what they done (if they aren't tech savvy)

For USB 2.0
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+flash+drive+header+cable&qid=1564302415&s=gateway&sr=8-3


For USB 3.0 Headers
https://www.amazon.com/Female-Screw-Panel-Mount-Motherboard/dp/B010NBLRHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=usb+flash+drive+header+cable&qid=1564302415&s=gateway&sr=8-14

Aren't bluetooth dongle really small already?

If the USB2 header on the motherboard is unused you can use this:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

But both USB2 & 3 are probably used since most cases have both ports.

If you want it to be entirely internal, buy a cable similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/

Then make sure to route it so that the dongle is outside of the metal area of the case (in the front panel if plastic, or near a glass window), to not block the radio.

Dunno if freenas benefits from usb 3. If it does not you can get one of these for a completely internal install of your flash drive.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395548208&sr=1-1&keywords=internal+usb3+plug

That Game Boy Player would absolutely not work, I mean.. it would allow you to play gameboy games, but you need to have the physical game disks.

It won't allow you to play WoW or something like that.

---

If you can paint out your vision?
I don't really understand much of what you have in mind. I would likely advise against the "roof". This will make it very complicated and also pretty difficult, based on the

• GameCube front picture
  
• GameCube rear picture
  
• GameCube rear picture with mini motherboard inside
  
  ---
  
  You want to place this adapter inside it? That's possible when you use an internal USB adapter cable like that one.
  But again, space is the big issue.
  
  I looked at the BRIX as best as I could since that seems to be the best & smallest option you've got. Here is the inside of it. It's tiny, but it also got 2 small fans next to it, to keep the CPU & GPU cool under load. Without those fans, the temperatures of both the CPU and GPU will not stay in check..
  Those fans are also pretty annoyingly loud.
  
  You could perhaps find replacements for these fans, to get the noise down. It are 40x40mm fans, which Noctua also produces. These fans will be a lot more silent, but I think that they might not push enough air.. Especially because of the fact that the GameCube is not extremely well ventilated. This is something you'll have to likely test out yourself.
  This Sycthe fan is 10mm thicker but also pushes a bit more air compared to the Noctua. It also is a bit louder (on paper) compared to it because of it.
  
  Do you already have the GameCube with you? If so, it's time to pull out a venier caliper and start measuring. You really need to know everything.
  Put it on a piece of paper or excel document or something.
  
  ---
  
  You could even simply consider to use the program SketchUp. It's a free program that allows you to design whatever you want. I would recommend to at least have a look at some beginners guides so that you can do the very basic things, without going crazy.
  
  You can use this to sketch out and design this whole thing from the ground up in software, before you start to even touch the GameCube in real life. To see if it would actually fit or just to see how much space you would have. SketchUp got a lot of GameCubes in it's 3D warehouse. But they're all in different sizes and I don't think anyone is actually in the right scale.
  The closest one that's correct in terms of actual size / scale is that tiny one in the middle.

This will do perfectly fine if you have no rgb header on your mother board but it take an usb header so will probably also need that

This is the one I snagged: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IV6S9S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I actually just bought this LED strip off of Amazon. It isn't anything spectacular, but it fit my needs length wise and color. I only really wanted white in the beginning anyway. I just have it plugged into my motherboard with one of these. It works well and was much cheaper.

You can just buy a short USB header cable like this to keep it internal.

This is such an amazing idea! I've just ordered the parts from Amazon to do this and it only cost £17.47 in total.

5.25" Storage Box

USB Header to USB Female Adapter

USB 4 Port Hub Bus-powered

TedGem USB LED Light Strip with Velcro tape, TV Backlighting, Bias Lighting for HDTV USB LED Strip with Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JHWKGB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YQZjybY8PRH2M and
StarTech USB A to USB Motherboard 4-Pin Header F/F 2.0 Cable, 6" (USBMBADAPT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6SZjybM4RVM3T

A bit late, but here are some questions.
Have you returned the motherboard or RMA'd it?

Do you have something of this sort?

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_cc_6?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1503257581&sr=1-6-catcorr&keywords=usb+2.0+front+panel+header

If you do, then please try plugging the 4 pin connector to first, at the top of one usb 2 header, then at the bottom of the same header. Try this with both headers and this would definitely help isolate the issue to either a fault in the headers or some sort of problem in the case's front panel usb 2.0 wiring.

Anyways, this is a hardware issue of some sort, just quite tricky to determine whether both usb 2.0 headers have either the upper half or lower half pins not working, or some plug issue in the case wire itself.

Do let me know if you do it.

Edit: formatting.

E2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016RPA2N6/ref=pd_aw_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3SR0AYGGSXC24022SK3H&dpPl=1&dpID=41yJFZivj8L

This would be a better and easier way. Just put this into one header, check both ports working or not, then the other.

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

I use this to power an led strip.

you can add internal usbs. Something like this is what u are looking for http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S
Or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015F6QXKO?psc=1

Yes sorry I wasn’t clear enough. I know where it’s at on the board... but what type of plug do I buy to plug into it?

This is the closest I have found... but it’s only a 4 pin. Will it work if I just offset it one pin?


StarTech.com 6in USB 2.0 A to USB 4 Pin to Motherboard Header Adapter F/F - USB cable - USB (F) to 4 pin USB 2.0 header (F) - USBMBADAPT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_68uODbKNB19J1

Not sure I would call 1 usb cable a ton, and the interface doesnt have to go on the desk, you could put it on your tower?

I'm not convinced that what you're looking for actually exists.

As an alternative, if you're ok with a bit of modding, then a Focusrite Scarlett Solo should fit in a 5.25" bay and you could run the usb out the back directly into a usb headder with one of these

Wow, BIG thanks for that bit of keyboard science! Depicting the disassembly is also really useful and complements the write-up in your review. I was actually wondering about this when I found out about the RK's internal port 1-2 months ago but this being such a niche within a niche, I never thought I'd get an answer, haha.

That USB connector looks similar to those that you would find on motherboards for the front panel USB ports, but with one row instead of two. Were the wire assignments labelled? Or would any adaptor work as long as it has 5 pins with matching colours? This one from Amazon only has 4 pins though I'm not sure how necessary that 5th pin is.

Only issue now is how to route the adaptor through that rear cable shield. From the pics, it looks like the shield is just slotted into place and can be lifted up? Otherwise I'd probably have to drill a hole through.

Suddenly ABKO has become a very viable option for me as it ticks so many boxes, except my preferred 75% layout and bluetooth (my endgame doesn't exist). Hopefully Topre steps up their game and starts offering more features. Not sure if I still want to wait for the V2 in 55g though, as now that I've tried the 660C and HHKB, I can say that the heavier Topre on the 660C isn't always preferable.

Bought a set of these for my Son:

https://www.amazon.com/Topled-LightUSB-Light-Multicolor-Backlight/dp/B01KXUX6SO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1492794760&sr=8-7&keywords=USB+RGB+LED+Strip

and a USB 2.0 Header to Female USB to power it from inside the case:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1492794817&sr=8-5&keywords=USB+2.0+Header+to+Female+USB

All up just under 20 bucks and it looks real nice.

It's not magnetic, just 3M adhesive, but if you really wanted to you could pick up some magnetic sheets from pretty much any hobby store for a few bucks and glue them on.

Possible workaround: Put /boot on a flash drive.

Both of my home machines have something like this inside and connected to the motherboard's USB header:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IV6S9S

And attached to that is just a regular old USB thumb drive to serve as my /boot. This was originally done so that I could have /boot be on something other than my raid6 array and I wouldn't have to worry about having /boot copied on multiple disks in the array or anything like that. It lets me keep the array's disks simple and disposable. Only one array, only one partition (or no partitions) on every disk.

Since /boot gets very little writing, even cheap USB flash drives tend to last forever. Just dd a full image of the flash drive somewhere safe occasionally just in case it dies. I've been doing this since 2009 or so, and haven't had a flash drive die yet, but I did mysteriously lose a motherboard's header port and had to move that flash drive to be external.

Flash drives with USB header connectors right on them do exist, but I decided it was easier to just use the cheap adapter cable and then be able to use any random flash drive I had lying around. That way, if one dies, I'm not scrambling to find an immediate replacement of an obscure item.

Back when motherboards still had legacy IDE ports that were never used anymore, I used to use this sort of adapter for /boot on a compactflash card:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TIXJ5U

I only know one PCIe wifi+bt card.

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/tTdqqs/gigabyte-wireless-network-card-gcwb867di

i dont know if there is a USB combo however you can buy two seperate USB dongles and maybe even a USB Hub. if you never remove the dongles and have spare internal USB headers you can also use cables like this and hide the dongles inside your computer. the signal strength will suffer a little due to the pc chassis shielding it however for normal use itll be sufficient.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Startech-Female-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header/dp/B000IV6S9S

It's a standard motherboard header for USB. A cable like this would work just fine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_KzT4CbEGMX9MT

If you have a spare left over from an old motherboard, that would work as well.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

but it would only be reasonable with the pcb plate option

Just grabbed one of these and installed it on one of my open usb headers on my mobo. I then connected the usb extension cable that comes with the xbox wireless dongle and routed it through the back of my case, out the front by the fans and double sided taped it with the sync button up so I can sync more controllers and the indicator LED is facing out on it too :)

Just use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495539285&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+motherboard+to+usb

...and put the receiver into your chassis

edit: sorry, misunderstood... of course you need at least the wireless adapter for USB.

Maybe it's a power problem like someone mentioned further up in the thread. You could try a flash drive big enough for the OS and everything. If it works, send back your SATA card and get an internal USB port. People do this a lot for FreeNAS configurations. I dont know how Windows would feel about it.

I figured I would share this with everyone as a nice sort of fool proof backup drive that I use for my mom and aunt. They basically only use their machines for email, basic internet and pictures. Well despite my best efforts both have lost pictures in the past. What I did was inside their case I install a USB header on the mobo, either something like this, or in my mom's PC just a spare back panel USB I had laying around that I taped to the bottom of the PC. Then I stick a 32gb USB 2.0 flash drive in there and name it "Pictures." They both use some shitty Kodak program that came with their cameras that saves to my documents in folders by date. I showed them how to drag the folders to the picture drive to back them up. Then every few months I use Teamview or showmypc and burn a dvd for them. So far so good, thought I might share that for the mom and dad builds.

Also the G530 is an awesome processor for a cheap office style desktop for family members.

Good call on the 3.5" bays. Regardless, I think you will be fine to start out with 2 or 4 3.5" bays :). Down the line, you could expand your storage options with a NAS. There is plenty of time for that.

I think one way to get both ESXi and HyperV experience is to deploy a HyperV instance inside of a ESXi VM. That way, you get to experience both. There are a few articles about doing this out there, here is one.

ESXi is relatively easy to get started with especially since they have a slick web GUI for it now (as of ESXi 6.0 Update 2). It would probably help to get some experience with the older vSphere client (since that is still kicking around). vSphere Client is a Windows application. It is going to go away eventually, but it does not hurt to have some familiarity with it.

Starting with ESXi is not too different than other hypervisors. You can download the free hypervisor here. You can burn that ISO to a CD or put it on a USB stick. If you are going to throw it on a USB stick, I would recommend using Rufus because it makes the process of putting the ISO on a USB stick much easier. Once that is booted up, it will start the installer. Follow the prompts, and you are good to go. Since you do not have a ton of SATA ports to spare, you may want to consider putting ESXi on a USB stick of its own (not the one you use to install it). I do not know if the Z400 has an internal USB A port, but if not, you could convert a front panel header into a USB A port with something like this. Putting ESXi on a USB stick frees up a SATA port for whatever storage solution you want to have.

To manage it, you can use the slick GUI (I believe you can just navigate to https://<IP of ESXi box>/ui) or vSphere Client, available here. VM operations are very similar to what you are used to with VirtualBox. From there, you can branch out to the aspects of the hypervisor that are interesting to you. Some of the features will likely require the vSphere Appliance (which costs money), but you can cross that bridge when you get there.

You can always buy an adapter. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394072993&sr=8-1&keywords=internal+usb+adapter

If you have an open USB header on your mobo, you could use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

Would this also work?
I honestly don't know what size the molex connector is.
But then you can use a USB A male to male extension cable

http://jinnfeng.com/products/electrical-cable-assembly/9-usb-to-1-25mm-molex-hsg

I know the Qanba one will work just from eyeballing it, but I don't know if the keyed molex is 1.25mm or 1.5mm.
I'm not an expert in any sort of connection stuff. The main difficulty is getting the proper size connector that is also keyed. I don't know what that connector type or size is called or it would be easier to search.

This isn't keyed but is labeled: Would THIS work?

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

Note that there are two grounds instead of one on the original cable, but this should still work. The second ground is a shield wire.
You'll notice that the Qanba cable has two grounds on it, but I'm using that cable on this PCB that only has one ground connector:

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/home/1658-brook-universal-fighting-board-ps3-ps4-xbox-360-xbox-one-pc-.html#/soldered_headers-all_headers

Again I know nothing about this, so I don't know if the amazon one with one ground will work (as long as you plug it into the correct pins). Maybe I'm causing more harm than I'm helping though.

Edit
USB A to 5 pin JST.

http://www.ioiusb.com/Cable/U2AP-JST.htm

Thanks for the input. I'm looking for something to replace my laptop so it being super tiny is really important.

I'm actually thinking of wiring up an internal USB WiFi module using a cable like this...

StarTech.com 6in USB 2.0 Cable - USB A Female to USB Motherboard 4 Pin Header F/F https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DIfdAb3RBGBWF

Probably not because you'd have to use USB to install the driver. Another option would be to use usb 2.0 on your case off of a header if you have it or get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S

If the problem is attaching it to an outer USB port, you could try something like this and attach the adapter to an internal header. I'm not sure how it would interfere with the signal, though- all I've got is a personal anecdote that I've done it with an aluminum case with no issues.

If I were to use one of these with one of those small bluetooth adapters, would the case interfere with the signal?

I don't really intend to be very far from my case at all, since I'll only be using it while I'm sitting at my desk, but I hate that god-awful blue LED. Lights up my whole damn bedroom, and it still blinks when the computer is off!