Reddit Reddit reviews Techni Edge TE01-111 No. 11 Hobby Blades, 1-Pack

We found 14 Reddit comments about Techni Edge TE01-111 No. 11 Hobby Blades, 1-Pack. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Techni Edge TE01-111 No. 11 Hobby Blades, 1-Pack
Sharp angle for detail cutting, trimming, and strippingMade with high Quality materials and highly durableManufactured in United StatesProduct Dimension: 1.9"L x 2.5"W x 0.5"H
Check price on Amazon

14 Reddit comments about Techni Edge TE01-111 No. 11 Hobby Blades, 1-Pack:

u/myheadhurtsalot · 10 pointsr/somethingimade

A couple protips from a former acid etcher turned full laser shop owner. If you want to pick up a decent vinyl cutter for a decent price, look into USCutter's SC series. It's a solid entry level machine with better manufacturing than the MH line (mine died after a year). They do cost a few hundred, so if you're just starting out, cutting by hand is going to be your way to go.

Cutting by hand is touchy, but there are ways to make it easier. Get a stack of #11 hobby blades (standard Xacto size), they'll be your best friend. Next - get a roll of clear contact paper (super cheap at Target, look in the shelf paper). Print your design on lightweight printer paper, then lay one layer of contact paper on your glass. Make sure it's on there nice and smooth. Next, sandwich your printed design between another piece of contact onto the glass. Then cut out your design, generally starting from the center and moving outward. Once you have the whole design cut, take the scraps of the top layer off, and weed (pick out the cut parts) your bottom layer. Then make sure all of your edges are pressed down, and apply Armour Etch. Make sure to dab, shifting your brush around, to get all the air bubbles out. Don't brush, or you'll end up with swirls and brush marks. Then just let it sit for 10 minutes (watch for drips), and wash off the Armour Etch and vinyl.

u/Veteran_Brewer · 5 pointsr/flitetest

You should invest in some new blades. These have served me well: [Techni Edge #11 Hobby Blades - 100](Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006GBSXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x24fzb017RKPS)

u/1D13 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Echoing the "buy in bulk" methodology here is the 100 pack of size 11s I use.

As far as I can tell they are effectively identical to the name brand ones like Xacto, but Xacto sells theirs 15 for $5 or so. The savings are tremendous comparitively. When I'm spending 11 cents per blade, I really don't mind replacing them.

u/Absolutionis · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Yes it does dull over time. It is rather significant. However, even with a slightly dulled blade, it cuts the flash off just fine. The parts you want to remove are almost always weaker/thinner than the actual detail on the miniature, so you can casually remove the excess with ease.

Plus, much of the 'cutting' power of the knife doesn't rely on it being super-sharp, it requires a simple blade and pressure. I find I cut myself much less often when using slaightly dulled blades.

Sharpening isn't necessary. Replacement blades are really cheap, and you don't have to get X-Acto brand blades.

http://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-X611-Blades-Knives-Bulk/dp/B00006ICJV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1367812873&sr=8-3&keywords=xacto+blades

http://www.amazon.com/Techni-Edge-11-Hobby-Blades/dp/B0006GBSXG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367812873&sr=8-1&keywords=xacto+blades

http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-96017197-Craft-Knife-Blades/dp/B0033PORF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367813009&sr=8-1&keywords=craft+knife+blades

u/wyijx · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

As a preface this was my first Gunpla model coming back to the hobby and taking it a little more seriously. I built a few no grade and a couple HG Gundam Wing sets back in my youth when Gundam Wing was big and Toonami was still around.

So I picked up this RG Qan[T] knowing next to nothing about 00 Gundam but just liked the design of the suit. I may look into a higher grade of the suit in the future (MG probably)

A lot of you guys might recognize me as Thu from the group Discord. If you are not yet a member of the Discord I highly recommend it. A great friendly community and I have quite a few people I owe everything I've learned about Gunpla to.

I'm gonna do a few posts of the three completed builds I've finished since starting again, and I'd like to detail my growth through out them so hopefully I can offer some help to others growing in the hobby. If you want to ask me any questions feel free to message me here or reach out to me on the Discord channel. I'm Thu#3048, friend me if you like.

I began building this around early October and wrapped up the build probably late November.


The Build:

Overall the snapfitting process of this suit is like most of the other RG's I've done now, it's pretty sturdy and doesn't really risk parts falling off. My only complaint is the arm holding the shield isn't the most sturdy and risks disconnecting quite frequently.

It has a solid few gimmicks to it that are pretty sweet but using all the blades to form the huge sword is probably the best. Unfortunately it is way too heavy for the model to hold up on it's own.

This being my first painted kit I used a NEO Airbrush, Vallejo primer, paint and top coat (varnish in Vallejo's case). Vallejo has great colored acrylic paints and I recommend them if you're looking for the least toxic options out there. Be aware those they are water based acrylics, and because of that it tends to dry on the needle of your air brush and it becomes a mildly annoying sticking point to clean the nozzle and needle in the air brushing process. In a few longer sessions (around an hour and a half) I would have to do it maybe up to three times. That being said it's very easy to clean your brush (just water will do fine most of the time) and spraying a windex solution through there will clean it out. Acrylics are great for when you're getting the hang of it, if you mess up, just plop the piece in a bowl of windex and then brush it with a soft bristle toothbrush to remove the paint layers.

There are not yet any available water slide decals for this kit so I opted to pick up the HG decals, and although there are a few ratio differences between this kit and the HG despite the HG being also 1/144. But I felt satisfied with them in the end, and tailored a few to suit my own flair.

For panel lining I simply thinned grey (for white and yellow) and black (all other colors) enamel paint using Ronsonol lighter fluid. Although I found this technique effective enough, the lighter fluid evaporates very quickly so in the end some panel lines were more pronounced (when it was less thinned) than others (when I added back thinner). Which to me left the panel lines a little inconsistent.

What I learned in this build
This kit was a lot of firsts for me, but in a quick way:

Snapfit

  1. Cut pieces from the sprue with a little space between the part and where you cut, this helps reduce stress on the plastic and creating stress marks
  2. Cut thinner sprues connecting the pieces before cutting larger ones. I find this also helps reduce stress marks
  3. Replace your hobby knife (xacto) blades often and early, the longer you wait the more you're shoving plastic off instead of cutting it cleanly. I found this pack of 100 for $15 a pretty sweet deal on Amazon compared to what I'd find at my hobby store.

    Painting

  4. Wash your kit first, didn't know this going in. There's a lot of greases between the factory production of the kit, and oils from your hands.
  5. Primer, always primer. It helps your paint adhere and gives you a good even surface especially if you've sanded.
  6. Thin your paints 2:1 (at least this was what I did here unless you're using the Air Vallejo paints they're prethinned)
  7. Painting white is hard
  8. Experiment with your PSI from your compressor, the distance from your piece and how thin your paint is. It's hard at first but once you've found what works for you it will help create a consistent experience in painting.

    Decals & Panel Lines

  9. Don't use stickers, they're ugly :P.
  10. Water stickers are a builders dream, revolt against the stickers and take the leap if you haven't. I promise you water decals are 100% easier to re-position if you screw up than stickers are. Just keep that sucker wet.
  11. I at first was seeking to use Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer but opted to try Micro Set Solution ($6 at time) and Micro Sol Solution
    ($7). I found this was more than adequate and did the job great, found them at my local Hobby Town.'
  12. Panel lining is best done with enamel paint (be sure you've at least primed to use enamels because the thinner for them will split your plastic in two).
  13. Thin that panel lining if you do your own till you can basically see the pigment floating around in it.
  14. If you use ronsonol lighter fluid be sure to keep it thinned consistently, because it will evaporate consistently making your panel lining inconsistent.

    Top Coat
  15. Be patient, do not over do it, and do many coat. Use your lighting to a consistent coat on it.

    Learning Resources
    I have to admit I camped the tutorials linked in the subreddit wiki, asked a hundred new builder questions in Discord, and tried a lot of things people suggested. Without a doubt if you're a gunpla builder beginner or not, join the Discord and get involved, there's a great community there.
u/deathbydoughnut · 1 pointr/minipainting

Suggestion: I don't see a hobby knife anywhere. I see you have a cutting mat, but no actual knife which is integral for removing mould lines and other flash. I definitely suggest getting a xacto knife.

Also as a pro tip: don't be a sucker and buy the official xacto knife blades for like 5 blades for $3 when you can buy 100 blades for ~$12ish http://www.amazon.com/Techni-Edge-11-Hobby-Blades/dp/B0006GBSXG

u/aarongerhart · 1 pointr/fpv

I have a couple xactos and a pack of like 100 blades that I bought on Amazon. These ones, to be exact: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006GBSXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_32WLzbXQCAH76

They've never let me down.

u/7x13 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Nice Write up man.

An alternative to the Xacto knife would be the Tamiya Design Knife which is a personal favorite. It has a smaller blade (similar to the Xacto #24 blade) which gives you more control in smaller areas. Goes for about $8 on Amazon but includes 25 blades which last a while. Something to consider if you get tired of constantly getting poked and cut by those #11 blades.

and if you choose to go with the #11 blade Amazon sells a pack of 100 for cheaper than the Xacto branded ones.

u/dialtoneplus · 1 pointr/stencils

There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

  • I use #11 blades [Link]
  • I alternate between these two knives [[link]
    (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)
    ] [link]
  • Painters tape [Link]
  • Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  • 110lb cardstock paper
  • Clear scotch tape

  • As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)


    [] General Tips []

  • Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.

  • For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.

  • Take your time with your cuts
  • Make sure your workspace is clean
  • Let your layers dry
  • Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  • shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  • Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  • Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.


    Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!
u/Bortjort · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I use probably 1 for every 2 HGs or 1 per MG but this depends a lot on how much styrene I work with etc.

I bought this pack of blades and they are just as sharp as the originals and I never feel bad about grabbing a new blade when the old ones wear out

u/JARL_OF_DETROIT · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I got THESE on Amazon.

I highly recommend them. 10x sharper than any exacto blade I bought in store. They dull a little fast but these thing can split hairs. I noticed a big difference on my first use.