Reddit Reddit reviews TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece

We found 38 Reddit comments about TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Screwdriver Bit Sets
Power Fastening Tool Parts & Accessories
Power Tool Parts & Accessories
Power & Hand Tools
Tools & Home Improvement
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece
Instant impact force loosens rusted or frozen screws without damaging themForward and reverse drive directionDrives included screwdriver bits or any 3/8 in. drive impact socketComfortable handle with non-slip knurled gripFrees corroded brake caliper screws and other vehicle or outdoor fasteners exposed to the elements
Check price on Amazon

38 Reddit comments about TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece:

u/Sophias_dad · 53 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Impact screwdriver. Note: I'm thinking the one that you hit with a sledge, not the one you'd use to install drywall screws or something..

This is one of many examples. Be aware that they can also usually be used for TIGHTENING, so make sure it's set right before whacking it.

https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3Q0ZTN8MJTHOX&keywords=impact+screwdriver&qid=1558795291&s=gateway&sprefix=Impact+sc%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-3

Also comes in handy for removing Honda brake rotor screws!

u/gunslinger_006 · 50 pointsr/motorcycles

>So I've given up and have booked it in to the workshop, but I just hate how I cant seem to accomplish the simplest of mechanical tasks, I'm really just venting here. fuck my useless mechanical ability, I just ruin things like screw heads when I try >:( >:(

Few pointers from a guy whose been wrenching for a long time:

  1. Every guy like me got to where we are by making a fucking disaster of various jobs and having to sort our way out. Shit, I learned how to extract broken bolts by...you guessed it...breaking bolts! It happens. Take it as a chance to learn a new skill and your overall skill will grow...get discouraged and book a mechanic and you will not learn the skills you need to grow as a mechanic. There is no gain without pain.

  2. Some screws are made of fucking cheese and are going to strip no matter what you do, if they were put in hard and haven't been removed in a long time (or if they were painted, or rusted, or someone used the wrong locktite, or some dumbass jb welded them in place). This is just a fact of life, that sometimes you do everything right and you still ruin a screw.

    So what do you do?

    For those soft screws that love to strip: You use an impact screwdriver to break it loose and/or a good creeping lubricant to break the rust (PB blaster, Kroil).

    Once you munge a screw up badly, you will need an extractor set. I recommend you learn this skill by deliberately ruining a few screws that yo have screwed into a board and use the set to get them out.

    Here is one example of an extractor kit:

    http://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414453572&sr=8-1&keywords=screw+extractor

    My advice to you:

  3. Get an extractor kit and learn how it works.

  4. Get an impact screwdriver and learn how it works.

  5. If your problem is a bolt (m8 or larger) that is frozen, an impact driver (either electronic or pnuematic) is your best friend. There are some jobs like brake caliper bolts that practically demand an impact driver due to the rusting involved, and are prone to shearing the head off if you use a large bar instead of an impact driver. Every mechanic has one for a reason...they are necessary for many jobs on cars and motorcycles.

  6. Cut yourself some slack.

  7. If you are going to call in for help (we all have done it), you can start by taking your bike in and having a mechanic just get that screw out. Then you can finish the job yourself by ordering new screws from your dealer (the parts guy will help you find the right part numbers and order them for you...be nice to the parts guy, he is a tremendous ally!).

  8. DO NOT give up on learning to work on your bike!

  9. IF YOUR FAIRING SCREWS ARE PLASTIC...plastic is a WHOLE different animal and they are a nightmare. If this is what you are dealing with, let me know and I'll post different steps for you.

  10. NEVER use the wrong size phillips screwdriver! Using one that is even slightly too small or too large will result in stripping. You should have a nice selection and always make sure you are using the correct one for the screw. This is VERY important for soft screws like plastic, aluminum, and brass.

  11. The last point is also applicable to TORX, and HEX nuts/screws. I'm pretty much convinced that Torx was a created by a sadist to introduce untold suffering onto the world. Treat every TORX screw/bolt like it will strip on you. NEVER mistake a T27 for a T25 or you will have a bad day for sure. Harley Davidson loves to put soft torx screws all over their bikes and its maddening.

  12. Learn when a 12 point socket is ok, and when a 6 point socket is ok. 6 point = high torque application. 12 point - only for low torque applications. I almost never use 12 point sockets these days.

  13. Wear safety glasses anytime a power tool or compressed gas/air is in use. You will thank me for this one later.


    EDIT: Thanks for the gold, whoever sent that. Totally unnecessary but I appreciate it and gold helps reddit avoid selling out completely to advertisers. Cheers!
u/__redruM · 31 pointsr/videos

It you are mechanically inclined, brakes are an easy way to save money. Watch a video for your specific car before attempting though. Some times that rotor is held on with the rusted phillips screw from hell, and you don't want to attempt removing that without the right impact tool.

u/sumsomeone · 7 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Invest into a Impact Driver.

Seriously these things are awesome. Your local hardware store should have them.


Other than that try a little heat around them. Stick a screw driver on it and bang the end while trying to twist.


if all fails you most likely have to Drill them out.

u/mooglobe · 6 pointsr/fixit

I would recommend this tool.

u/No-Coast-Punk · 6 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Get one of these or a similar model at your local parts store.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3

You hit it with a hammer and the internal mechanism turns the screw at the same time.

3 things happen. The hammer blow causes sever vibration which lets the threads break loose. The impact keeps the bit firmly in the screw. The turning motion backs it out.

Anybody talking about any other method is wrong.

u/chunkyks · 5 pointsr/engineering

An impact driver alone is probably adequate. But as raoulduke25 points out, unlikely a drunk chav is stumbling about armed with one of those.

u/the2baddavid · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I'd hit it with the penetrating oil (not sure what kroil is) a couple times waiting a few minutes in between to give it time to work.

Grab one of these as well. Is the old style impact driver. You whack the end with a hammer which is what turns the mechanism. It can go left or right so make sure you have it set to the correct one.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=impact+driver&qid=1550950294&s=gateway&sr=8-8

If those are standard size screws, you can change to Allen screws which can be easier to remove. Just make sure you don't over torque. And consider putting a little anti seize on there when installing.

u/mrmax1984 · 5 pointsr/Cartalk

I have a 2008 BMW 335i. It has the N54 twin turbo 3.0L engine. I bought the car with 51k miles almost 5 years ago. It now has around 88k. Here's a rough list of what I've done so far:

  • spark plugs, easy diy
  • water pump and thermostat, relatively easy DIY if you have small hands. Parts were ~$400 or something like that.
  • clutch delay valve delete, ~$20 or $30 for the part; relatively easy diy
  • rear brakes; you'll need a hand impact driver to get the rotor set screw off
  • front control arms; you'll need an assortment of 20mm+ sockets and wrenches, as well as a breaker bar, and a torque wrench capable of 122 lb-ft; this one was a pain in the cunning linguals, primarily due to the fact that the car has to be at ride height before torquing down the frame bolts. This means that you need to alternate between jack stands and ramps.
  • valve cover gasket; a bit of a pita. The valve cover is plastic, so it's generally recommended to replace along with the gasket. ~$300 and change. Took most of a weekend, but I took my time.
  • carbon cleaning; had to buy a media blasting kit for this. I already had a harbor freight 21 gallon compressor. It has to refill between cylinders, so ~6 or 7 times per walnut blasting session.
  • oil filter housing gasket; got about half-way through with this today, actually

    In general, I will say that I've managed to DIY just about everything on this car, with the exception of the air conditioner evaporator. That I had done at my local A/C shop, but I've since seen someone on the e90 forums do it themselves.

    I have had to buy quite a few tools and accessories along the way: a battery trickle-charger for the water pump bleed process, media blaster for the carbon cleaning, torx and e-torx bits/sockets, steering hub spreader for shocks (forgot this in the list above), impact hammer thing for brake rotors, extended low-profile jack, and so on and so on.

    The most frustrating thing though was getting the BMW software to work. It's necessary for registering a new battery (so that it charges properly), or for installing new fuel injectors (they have individual flow rates and tolerances).

    OH. I almost forgot. The waste gates on my turbos are rattling, and I'm out of warranty, so I'm looking at ~$1500-$2000 for new turbos some time this year. After that, it'll be new front wheel bearings. As soon as things stop breaking, I'll maybe have some time for upgrades and/or tune. =)

    I should add, that the only reason I am even willing to do this stuff is because my wife and I commute to work together, so my car can be in pieces for weeks at a time if it needs to. Were that to change, I'd probably have to ditch this car for something more reliable.

    Edit: After I finish all of the above, I'm going to polish and seal my headlights. I pretty much have to do this, since I'm sure as shit not going to pay $1k per light. >8|


    I kind of got off topic. You asked about the feasibility of maintaining a car like this on your own. It's definitely possible, but it helps to know what you can expect down the road.
u/I_Only_Post_NEAT · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

For that last part, they make the hand impact drivers that does exactly this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s1QPCbJW6THVR

There's a flat driver in that set, slot it into the slot, get a good grip, and hit it with a hammer. It simultaneously impact the bolt to break the rust while at the same time turn the bolt out.

u/BranfordJeff2 · 3 pointsr/projectbike

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rp.ZDb3MSFFNV

u/bms42 · 3 pointsr/DIY

You need one of these: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MbX3Bb9Y8YFD0

May be too late now that you've drilled it, but for next time these are magical.

u/someguymartin · 3 pointsr/cars

Impact screw driver, it's a tool you put a bit in (i.e Phillips or torx in BMW's case) set the direction, and give it a whack with a hammer. 99% of the time the rotor carrier screw comes loose. Here's one on Amazon

Big tip - only cars with wheel studs (Germans and now FCA vehicles) need the screw re-installed.

Domestic and Japanese using wheel nuts, use the screw to hold the rotor in place while the vehicle is being built, (so a rotor doesn't fall off the car and hit a factory worker) apart from that it doesn't really serve a purpose.

You can get away without using it on the German cars too, but you have to make sure if the bolt snapped that it's flush with the hub.

It's really annoying trying to get the stud through the wheel then the rotor and then to the hub with out the screw holding the rotor in place.

u/chilloutdamnit · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

For oil change, a standard socket set, a drain pan and maybe an oil filter wrench is all you really need.

Depending on what you’re doing with your carbs, you might invest in an impact hammer set like this one: TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8VjCCbNQD190X. This will prevent stripping the screws during disassembly.

You might also want to do a valve check which will require some feeler gauges. If you wanna cheap out on a valve adjustment, you can use some sand paper to bring your shims into spec. Otherwise you’re gonna need to buy some replacement shims.

u/tecnic1 · 2 pointsr/bmx

If you can find someone with one of these, they will work.

u/mtimber1 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

... nope...

An impact driver imparts not only a rotational force but additionally a linear force along the axis of rotation of the fastener. You're just hitting a wrench with a hammer.

This is what a manual, or as you said "analog", impact driver looks like


Edit: I'm full of shit don't listen to me

u/AAA515 · 1 pointr/mechanic

Alright, no offense to the first commenter but we need to clearly define what we are talking about.
There isn't an "impact driver drill" I believe your talking about something like this that is a cordless electric 1/4" impact driver. It accepts 1/4" hex driver bits notice the special cut out at the base of the bit, that's what keeps it from falling out. It functions like a drill/driver until it encounters sufficient resistance then it impacts, giving increased torque(rotational force), it does not produce a hammering force(along the axis of the bit).

Now this is an impact wrench it too functions like a drill/driver until it meets resistance then it impacts adding rotational force but not hammer force. What are the differences between this and the driver we looked at earlier? First is obviously size, the wrench is bigger, and stronger, and heavier. But that's not what makes it a different tool, what makes it different is the tip, it's a square, like for putting sockets on, in this case 1/2" sockets but they make 3/8", 1/4", 3/4" and much larger!

So could you use the first tool in place of the much larger second tool? Yes! Use one of these adapters

Here's the problem tho, the first tool, the driver, makes at most 117 ft-lbs, and I believe that's stretching, the second tool, the wrench, makes 700 ft-lbs. To remove a rusty, crusty, stubborn lugnut you will need the bigger badder tool, sometimes it still won't be enough, and you'll need a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

Now what the other commenter mentioned, the hammering force, that can be made with a few different tools. Let's start with the handheld impact driver yes it's confusing, two different tools, both called impact drivers, but this one we'll call the handheld, you hold it with one hand, and hammer it with a hammer. It has a cam mechanism that takes some of that axial force and imparts a slight (like 1/16 of a turn) rotation. It's good for stuck screws especially Phillips heads.

Another, more common tool is the hammer drill it is essentially a drill, it grips with three jaws onto the same bits as our first impact driver, or onto completely round bits, like your common drill bits but when you engage the hammer mechanism it will push its chuck forward and back rapidly, and the pressure you apply to the back of the drill hammers the bit into the material your drilling, useful for concrete/masonary work. But for real drilling power into concrete you want an SDS rotary hammer drill this bad boy only accepts SDS bits, provides it's own rotary and axial forces and will drill thru reinforced concrete like non reinforced butter.

Ok I think that about covers it, if anyone would like to add on I'd appreciate it. And remember:

Always use the right tool for the job, a hammer is the right tool for every job, and every tool can be used as a hammer!


Obviously that was sarcasm.

u/rozumiesz · 1 pointr/specializedtools

You might want to consider, depending on how tough the thing you're working on is, a manual impact driver.

u/BickNlinko · 1 pointr/Fixxit

Start with tons of lube(I like Kroil and LiquidWrench), then use an impact driver with the correct size bit.

u/pbgod · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice
u/sendtitsapplebits · 1 pointr/Dirtbikes

This thing is more of what i'm talking about.

u/gunnie430 · 1 pointr/skoolies

There is a manual impact driver that will work better than any electric driver. You basically put it on the screw then hit it with a hammer (preferably a dead blow hammer for best results) and it will literally break any screw loose, I’ve used one for many years in the navy on gun mounts when the screws were seized in place due to the rust.

The benefits are that it won’t strip the screws out and it’s cheap enough that you can pick it for about $20 or less at places like harbor freight.

The down side is that it can be hard to use sometimes when in a tight spot while trying to hit the head and it’s not as fast as an electric impact.

If I were you I would use the manual impact to break them loose then use the electric impact to speed up the removal. Here’s a amazon link so you can see what it looks like TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pxIZDbMCYSWGE

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

You're using the wrong tool for the job, the corded drill is made to drill holes. A corded (or air for that matter) impact gun would work but an impact driver is way cheaper. It's similar to a punch, you hit the back hard with a hammer and the tool translates your striking motion into a twisting motion which can break loose stubborn bolts. Similar to putting a wrench on it and hammering the wrench but much easier.

Something like this

u/randomwords42 · 1 pointr/DIY

You could try buying an impact driver and using that, which could deliver more torque to the screw than you can with just a regular screw driver.

This is what I mean

u/AKADriver · 1 pointr/Cartalk

> As an aside, just bite the bullet and drill those damn screws out.

If the heads haven't been ruined yet, on a 2010 they should come out pretty easily with an impact screwdriver, which you can sometimes rent from auto parts stores.

The hollow sound definitely makes me think there's either a dented dust shield or a piece of debris stuck between the shield and rotor. However, I had a grinding noise sort of like this once that turned out to be one of the pad clips having slightly cracked and warped such that it could rub the rotor under braking.

u/boondoggie42 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement
u/herqleez · 1 pointr/HondaCB

And you absolutely need one of these!

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BpUDDbSQB0RGV

u/Necrofridge · 1 pointr/motorcycles

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511535850&sr=8-1&keywords=manual+impact
Get a manual impact for that. Every hit on it turns the driver, so you have maximum force on each turn.
/u/dhroknoobx

u/AFewShellsShort · 1 pointr/motorcycles

You need an impact driver,
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_VVNsDbWB1P6WT
Some like this are cheap, nicer ones are out there but if you only need it once it might not be worth it.

I have had to use one on my first bikes brake reservoir, and 3 of my friends... they come in handy.

u/glennkg · 1 pointr/fixit

These do a great job also until the head is fully rounded out

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b0OkDbAQAGG1H

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 1 pointr/Fixxit

You can find one of these at most auto parts stores.

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kdr2AbZP86E84

Need a hammer and just be carful. If this doesn’t work you’ll need to drill out the screws. I have ideas about that but try this tool first.

u/enbay1 · 1 pointr/scooters

Not to mention if you're going to be working on a bike being able to remove stupid JIS or Phillips screws without stripping them is invaluable. Buy this and move on with your life. JIS tip not included.

u/kobra410 · -6 pointsr/bikebuilders

Try using an impact driver, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qzCBDb9KRYWE8