Reddit reviews TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-80 ft.-lb.) | 24330

I use TEKTON torque wrenches for everything, and have had 0 problems they work very well and are extremely cheap for the quality. You can get them on amazon here's the 3/8's one I use http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1457543167&sr=1-2&keywords=torque+wrench

This Tekton is in the range of what you're trying to torque to and will do most jobbies on a bike. A little bit of blue locktite on the caliper mounting bolts for added insurance if you're really concerned.

Don't be stupid. Get a decent torque wrench.

For $30, Amazon is your friend:

TEKTON 24330 3/8-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-80 ft.-lb./13.6-108.5 Nm)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_HzgxzbAME8322

I personally wouldn't buy a torque wrench from HF they are very good for certain things that are solid metal (socket, crescent wrench) but anything more technical I may not trust them. I purchased this torque wrench from amazon and it has served me well at $30 10-80ftlb.

For sparkplugs, engine air filter, and cabin filter you can DIY for much less if you're inclined, need a torque wrench and the bmw spark plug socket

total: ~130 + tax/shipping if any (amazon prime?)

Takes about an hour to do, maybe 2 if you're not mechanically inclined. These are all done at the same time in the same steps (you have to to remove the cabin air filter housing anyway to get to the spark plugs)

You need a socket wrench and socket for removing the cabin air filter and the torque wrench and the spark plug socket and thats it. Plenty of DIYs online you can just follow

plugs ~34

socket tool ~10

torque wrench ~$30

cabin air filter ~$27

air filter ~28

Rear brakes 277 seems okay, maybe a tiny bit high by a few dollars

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Drive-Socket-Extension-SHA11106/dp/B07R8JQKGK


https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-108-5/dp/B00FMPKAD0


https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-Tools-22887-Magnetic-Socket/dp/B00AXTKZ26

I have one from Nashbar.. 25% off today, so $60.

I also have a fixed 5Nm wrench, not exactly this one but similar.

This makes things like threadless stem replacing really quick.

For 6Nm, I carry Topeak's 6Nm Torqbox. Not on my work bench but on the road.

EDIT:
After I returned one from Harbor Freight one, I bought Tekton's one for 3/8" drive. For bike, this one is too big. I used this to install the hitch on my car so I can mount a lovely bike rack.

Ok, cool. I have this one from Amazon:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FMPKAD0

Since it's rated for 80 ft-lbs, I should be ok for the 50 ft-lbs torque specified in the Curt install sheet.

I just put together a tool kit for my BRZ, and I ended up getting a set of Tekton metric sockets and a Tekton low-profile 3/8s inch ratchet. I've used Tekton quite a bit and I found them to be pretty great. These metric sockets will cover just about everything on the car that can be loosened or tightened with a socket, and since they're deep sockets you can loosen lug nuts with them.

I'd suggest getting a breaker bar or torque wrench if you want to get an additional accessory. The breaker bar is great for loosening tough nuts, and the torque wrench is terrific for tightening a fastener to the exact amount of force it specifies in the manual.

If you really want to go above and beyond, an open ended wrench set (also metric) can be great for when a socket just won't fit. They even make a version with a built-in ratcheting mechanism

In summary, a metric ratchet set that goes from about 8mm to about 20mm is a great gift idea, and you can easily add on other accessories or wrenches if you want to make your gift a bit bigger. I can personally vouch for the Tekton stuff--sure it's not the most expensive fancy set of tools out there, but they look, feel, and work well.

Hope this helps!

I have this tekton torque wrench. No complaints. The torque wrench doesn't get much wear and tear so it is hard to judge the longevity but I also have a racheting wrench set by them - my most used tools (for auto work) - they're holding up well.

Thanks to everyone for your help! I bought all the tools you mentioned (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Drive-Socket-Extension-SHA11106/dp/B07R8JQKGK

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-108-5/dp/B00FMPKAD0

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-Tools-22887-Magnetic-Socket/dp/B00AXTKZ26)

and just replaced the spark plugs. Here is a photo of the old one. It seems it is not that worn, but I have replaced the four anyway.

>but be careful with cheap torque wrenches. They're made in China and are rarely calibrated accurately.

Any suggestions which brands would be not cheap? and what should I expect to pay for a decent torque wrench?


Also below are both 3/8 wrenches one is measured in inches 120-960 the other is feet, 10-80, which converts to the same exact measurements, is there a benefit to having a wrench in inches over feet or vice versa?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMPKAD0

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL12Y

The following will get you out of most mechanical issues:
workstand
mini ratchet
set of hex bits for ratchet
1-10ish Nm torque wrench
10-100ish Nm torque wrench with adapter for 1/4" drive bits
Park spoke keys
homemade bearing/bb press out of plumbing odds and ends
Park chain checker
Park mini chain tool
Park chain whip
Park master link pliers
Park hollowtech crank cap tool

I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-Torque-ft--lb/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1473166396&sr=1-4&keywords=torque+wrench

But it's a little overpowered for bicycles, and I actually feel like it's not giving me the right torque. But it can give you 50nm or 36 ft-lbs, so it should do the trick for cheap.

A more expensive option is the bicycle specific Park Tool one:

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Ratcheting-Torque-Wrench/dp/B004KZWL9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1473166567&sr=1-1&keywords=park%2Btool%2Btorque%2Bwrench&psc=1

Only the 3/8 Drive one will give you the necessary torque. I ended up ordering this one today, because of my problems with the cheaper one, especially for low-torque applications.

Also, I'm not sure what drive those Bafang sockets are. If they're 1/2 inch, you'll need an adapter to go down to 3/8 for either of those torque wrenches. Something like this set:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Adapter-Reducer-Vanadium-Conversions/dp/B01G3VKPAE/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1473169675&sr=1-5&keywords=socket+adapter+set

You're halfway correct. You're only converting the length unit, not the weight unit. So to go from kg-m to ft/lb you'd have to convert both units. Easiest way is to use an online converter, like this one. So your range, 0.15 to 13 kg-m, is equal to 13 to 1128 in/lbs, or 1 to 94 ft/lbs.

To really get all those torque ranges, you would need 3 torque wrenches: one for the smaller torques, one for the bigger stuff, and a screw-type torque wrench for the really small stuff. But two torque wrenches should cover about 90% of the stuff on that list.

These two wrenches would work perfect for what you're doing: a 1/4" drive and a 3/8" drive. With Amazon's free shipping the price should be right around $75. These two wrenches give you a range of 0.23 to 11 kg-m, which is everything on your list except the "cone seat for steering rod" and the "speedometer cable locking screw". If you ever mess with those, just use common sense and don't over tighten them.

I currently work as an aircraft mechanic, but I have also worked on motorcycles and cars before. I can tell you that most people would not even torque the vast majority on that list. Some things are important, where a failure of the bolt or nut can result in damage, like the axle nut bolts, and those would get always torqued. But things like the kickstarter arm bolts would normally just snug them up. Over time you will learn what is proper strength that should be applied. But for a beginner the torque wrench is great because it reduces the chances of stretching a bolt.

Quick science lesson. If you look at this chart, you will see the torque you can apply (the stress axis) vs. the stretch the bolt will receive (the strain axis). As you torque a bolt, the bolt will stretch slightly, which is fine, unless you go too far. A normal torque for a bolt would be somewhere between 0 and the yield strength on the chart. In this area, the bolt will stretch but return to it's original form once the torque is release. If you go any further, you enter the strain hardening area. Here the bolt will receive permanent deformation, but will still be tight. If you go even further, you enter the necking area, where the bolt has stretched so far that it has become thin and the strength of the bolt is no longer there, and the bolt is very close to breaking.

The reason why I bring this up, if you're ever tightening a bolt, screw, or nut and it feels like it all of a sudden got easier to turn, most likely it's because you've entered the necking area and you're about to break the bolt. Best thing to do then is take the bolt out and replace it.

alot of this is dependent on your model, but to give you a rough idea...

the most important tool you can own is a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your car, it can make fixing any part of the car 10x easier, and gives you torque specs for almost everything so you dont wreck your car. Subaru uses aluminum engine blocks, and over torquing will strip the threads from the block, or if you're really unlucky you can crack the block or head leaving you with a 3,300lb paperweight.

99% of fasteners are Metric, common sizes are 8, 10, 12, 14, and 17mm. there are also some 19, 21, and 23mm but they're less common. If you do any engine work you'll want a 14mm 12-point to remove the head bolts. If you need to split your short block, those are 12mm 12-point i think...

changing the engine oil will require a normal 17mm socket, but if you feel like changing manual transmission or rear diff oil you'll need a Torx T70 bit. (im doing mine this weekend) thats about $10 on amazon

If you plan on doing any engine/timing belt work, consider getting a set of cam/crank pulley tools. they're specific to Subaru and its nearly impossible to get the timing belt pulley's and harmonic balancer torqued correctly without them. There are a few different tools for different pulleys, each is about $50. you can find them here and on amazon.

I'm not sure about older models, but the fuel line that connects to the intake manifold on my subie has a quick-disconnect that requires a special tool to remove, you can remove the fuel line in other locations, but its nearly always a pain in the ass to get it back on and will risk damaging a hose. this is only really needed if you think you'll ever remove the intake manifold or plan to pull the engine at any point.

Other than that...

Breaker bars are great, especially for head bolts, brakes, and oil drain plugs

Feeler Gauges for checking tolerances

If you jack up the car, throw some jack stands under there for redundancy so if your jack slips, you aren't killed (this happens, alot.)

a compressor, impact wrench, blowgun, air ratchet, and some impact sockets can be infinitely useful, but know when to use them and when not to use them.

a good set of torque wrenches is always good, the torque specs on subarus are anywhere from 3.6ft/lbs to something like 136 ft/lbs. Amazon has some pretty good ones which cover this range... i bought this, this and this

im sure i can come up with more, if i do i'll add them as an edit. If you can give me an idea of what you plan on doing maintainance-wise, maybe we can give you an idea on what you'll need/expect