Reddit reviews The Practical Beekeeper: Beekeeping Naturally

>I built a top bar hive a couple years ago but never moved anyone into it. Been hoping I'd have what you found one day: some feral bees moved in. Been a couple years (scent it with lemongrass oil & beeswax each spring), maintain a lot of wild flowers in my yard (bees seem to particularly like milkweed), and in general try to make things conducive to being a bee, but no dice so far.

Definitely the right start, but I'd recommend building a simple nuc, and putting it high in a tree (maybe 8-12 foot up). If you can put it near a water source, even better. Also, try getting your name on some local bee removal sites (and if you're only comfortable with swarms, state that you only do swarm removals). It's a great way to get free bees, and a lot of times people will pay you to boot! I once got $100 for doing a trap-out even after I insisted that I didn't need the pay. Free bees, free money!

>So, I've been thinking of actually buying some bees and putting them in the hive, knowing basically nothing I feel I might be throwing good money (and a bunch of bees) away. Is there a particular resource on the internet you'd recommend as "essential reading" for someone who is 100% just interested in keeping bees on the property, with basically no desire for honey?

Absolutely. Michael Bush is basically the Elvis of hobby bee keeping, and he will go out of his way to answer any questions you post on forums he lurks on. His entire website is also available in hardback book form. It's a bit pricey, but absolutely worth the purchase.

>Any company you'd particularly recommend for me to purchase bees from?

I'd always recommend catching a swarm over buying. The bees you buy are typically Italian or Russian imports, and in my experience, not as hardy as feral bees. Ferals (at least those that I have) seem to be just aggressive enough to fend off the varroa mites, where the ones bred to be docile don't. Though do keep in mind that you have to "test" your ferals to make sure they're not Africanized if you're in that area. (Believe it or not, even Africanized bees are decent honeybees so long as you can be 100% sure that no man, woman, child, or pet will go anywhere near the hive unprotected - a guarantee you cannot make in a rural setting.) If you catch a swarm, let them move in, then "tease" them a bit when suited up. If after the first bee stings your suit, you only get 10-20 stingers in your suit, you're fine. The Africanized guys will tag you 100's of times.

This said, if you've no other choice but to buy a package, the hardest part is just finding someone that can deliver in your area, and has some available. You'll have to reserve your package in early February for a March or April delivery. (They go fast, particularly as so many colonies are dying out now.) Unfortunately I can't point you to a specific breeder that ships via mail. I've always had to go to a semi-local apiary to pick up my packages myself. (Queens are another matter. Those I can get by mail.)

>Finally, I have the hive relatively close to my house at the moment (also on about an acre)...is there any unwanted interaction during day-to-day activities? Or they're as chill as any random bee is, even when you're relatively close to the hive, and pretty much only freak out when you're actively going after the honey?

I've seen people keep bees right next to their back door without problems. I've seen people with massive hives living underneath their trailer home for 10 years without issue. Even these ferals that I have, once they calmed down, they no longer even try to attack me when mowing right next to the hive (within about 2 feet). So long as the bees' primary point of travel isn't directly in a walking path, there won't be a problem. And even then, it's usually accidental (them getting tangled in hair and panicking for example).

One thing you can do if you're particularly concerned is give the bees their own little "coop". Build some 7 foot walls up around them, and bees will travel up, and then out from there. They won't come back down to our level until they've neared their flower source. The girls I have only really get pissy when I start tearing apart their hive. Being ferals, they also produce a ton more propolis, so pulling their hive apart can be a pretty strenouous activity, resulting in lots of jostling.

https://www.amazon.com/Practical-Beekeeper-Beekeeping-Naturally/dp/1614760640/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?keywords=beekeeping+book+natural&qid=1554986172&s=gateway&sr=8-18

So, not a fan of Michael Bush, then?

As a natural beek, I am perked up.

>But you cannot be treatment free.

What would you consider the line between "treatment free" and "minimal treatment." i.e., what would YOU consider the bare minimum treatment? Is using small cell mediums "treatment" (as Michael Bush suggests)?

I'm really trying to learn and really trying to not spread varroa — but I have them and my Freeman oil trap can only do so much (i.e. not very much, but something).

At what point of saturation per 300 bees do you burn the hive for the betterment of the species? 10? 20? 50?

OP: sorry for your familial loss =(

Hey there!

I live in Ontario, so I'm a little North of you. I'm a hobbyist beekeeper with five hives. I help my mentor out (who has ten hives) too. We make some honey, but we do it more for the hobby.

> Is it possible to let the bees survive the winter on their own supply?

Absolutely. This is how my bees do it. I don't feed sugar or anything like that to them. They live off entirely their own supply. I take a little bit from them throughout the summer, but stop after Labour Day. In fact I've read that feeding sugar is detrimental to the hive's health.

> Which hive box is the best option to use for a beginner?

I suppose this depends on what is available in your area. I recommend the style of hive other keepers use in your area. I've only had experienced with pine wood boxes ranging in thickness from 7/8 to 1 & 1/8. My mentor is trying those foam hive boxes this winter. I can't report on how they perform just yet.

> Is early March or early April a good time to get started on placing my queen inside the hive?

You usually don't buy a queen to get started. You purchase a nuc or a package of bees. I started by buying a couple nucs. My mentor gave me a couple splits too. See what is available in your area. The local keepers won't sell you a nuc if they're not ready / it's too early.

> Really any points or tips would be greatly appreciated as I'm excited to get started.

I strongly recommend reading a few books on the topic. I've read a few over the summer/fall/winter prior to me getting my first hives and they really pumped me up for the hobby. I recommend to start:

Natural Beekeeping by Conrad Ross

The Practical Beekeeper by Michael Bush

These books go against the traditional line of thought of considering feeding sugar and pre-emptively striking with antibiotics and other medicines to be normal practice. I am still a new keeper, but so far with the three years I've had my hives I haven't had a problem going natural. Also means you don't have to play with nasty things you don't want to play with as a hobbyist.

The Michael Bush book's content can be found on the Michael Bush website for free. I prefer reading paper, and bought the book, but you can still learn plenty from his site: Bush Farms.

Good luck!

Yep the kit is an ok start. 8 frame mediums?
no room to grow.

Why not top-bar?

Go to Mann Lake. They ship fast, best service.
I've tried products from all the suppliers, but Mann Lake delivers.

http://www.amazon.com/Practical-Beekeeper-Beekeeping-Naturally/dp/1614760640
Good book.