Reddit Reddit reviews TP-Link Omada AC1350 Gigabit Ceiling Mount Wireless Access Point | MU-MIMO, Seamless Roaming & Beamforming | PoE Powered w/PoE Injector Included | Centralized Cloud Access & Free Omada app (EAP225)

We found 31 Reddit comments about TP-Link Omada AC1350 Gigabit Ceiling Mount Wireless Access Point | MU-MIMO, Seamless Roaming & Beamforming | PoE Powered w/PoE Injector Included | Centralized Cloud Access & Free Omada app (EAP225). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Computer Networking
Electronics
Computers & Accessories
Computer Networking Wireless Access Points
TP-Link Omada AC1350 Gigabit Ceiling Mount Wireless Access Point | MU-MIMO, Seamless Roaming & Beamforming | PoE Powered w/PoE Injector Included | Centralized Cloud Access & Free Omada app (EAP225)
Business level access point, suitable for homes, hotels, warehouses, restraurants etc.Simultaneous 450Mbps on 2.4GHz and 867Mbps on 5GHz with MU-MIMO, beamforming, band Steering to deliver best performanceCompatibility with 802.3af and passive PoE support makes deployment effortless and flexibleFree EAP controller software lets administrators easily manage hundreds of EAPsCaptive portal provides a convenient method for guest authenticationSupports management VLAN for an enhanced network management
Check price on Amazon

31 Reddit comments about TP-Link Omada AC1350 Gigabit Ceiling Mount Wireless Access Point | MU-MIMO, Seamless Roaming & Beamforming | PoE Powered w/PoE Injector Included | Centralized Cloud Access & Free Omada app (EAP225):

u/atvking · 8 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

A standalone wired router (e.g EdgeRouter X) and access point (e.g EAP 245) will perform much better than pretty much any consumer grade wireless router and allow for a lot more control/config, but you would be paying about $190 vs $110.

u/Jemikwa · 5 pointsr/homeowners

Network cabling everywhere. Even if you aren't in tech, you'll still find tremendous use out of this. Some requirements if I were to get it done custom:

  • At least one ethernet jack per room, maybe two per room on opposite sides if I could splurge. These are called network drops.
  • For each ethernet jack, run TWO ethernet cat5/6 per drop, because if one of them breaks or fails, you don't want to be the one that has to rewire a second one from your network closet to the jack. Also useful for testing if the cable is the culprit or if your networking gear is at fault. You don't have to hook up both cables on both sides, just choose one cable per jack to connect and the other is left dangling until you need it.
  • Addendum to above, if you want to be very fancy, get ceiling mounted wireless access points and have a network drop in the ceiling where the WAP will be mounted. You can get WAPs that are powered over an ethernet cable (called Power over Ethernet, PoE) and you would need a PoE Injector with your switch equipment to supply enough power over the lines (though some network switches PoE inject by default, so look for those if you want convenience), or you can wire another power outlet to where the WAP will go in parallel to the network drop that should be there too. Unless your home layout is convoluted, one, maybe two WAPs per floor is sufficient, usually in the common areas of each floor. Too many will cause interference with each other and you'll have a bad wifi signal. You can go with consumer grade TPLink or Netgear (ceiling mounted, remember, not just any old wireless router), or go with a more enterprise Ubiquity WAP (what we use).
  • Find a good spot for your networking gear, preferably near your home "demarc" AKA where your internet comes into the house at. Or, move the demarc into a closet for easier access. Have a patch panel set up that all of the network drops from the rooms connects to, and then you would connect each jack on the patch panel to a network switch, which then has one uplink (connection) to your home modem/router. Of course, the patch panel and network switch have to have at least as many ports as you have network drops to rooms, so if you have 16 drops, you'll have to get a 16 port patch panel and a 16+1 port switch (+1 because you have to have one connection to your uplink router/modem).
  • Not 100% necessary, but if you like having internet during power outages, or just momentary power in general during an outage, get a UPS or two or four... It will provide battery backup power to whatever is plugged into it for a certain amount of time, depending on the electrical load (how many devices you have plugged in, and how much power each device uses). I personally have 4 UPSs all around the house. One for the bedroom, and our phone chargers are plugged into them so we still have charged phones if a power outage happens overnight; one for our desktop computers (avid gamers :P); one for our networking equipment (power spike usually means you lost your internet and it has to reboot. I haven't had to deal with since getting a UPS unless the outage lasts for longer than 30-45 minutes!); and one for the living room TV setup and consoles. If you could only get one, I'd recommend it for the networking gear so you still have internet during momentary spikes. Useful for cell phones and laptops!

    This turned out longer than I expected, so if anything is confusing or you want more details, let me know!
u/hyperactivedog · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Some general thoughts.

You included a map. AMAZING.

  1. You should be able to "convert" coax to ethernet. MoCA 2.0 Bonded Adapters work wonders and basically give full ethernet speed(~16x as fast as your internet). They work so long as the coax is not being used by satellite TV. If you're using satellite TV along that run, the DECA is the next best thing. DECA is 1/8th the speed but cheap kits can be had on amazon for $20 (still ~2x as fast as your internet). If you aren't doing network transfers either works. For 90% of people it's pretty much plug two adapters in and you're done. It's almost like magic. For the remaining 10%... MoCA filters, maybe fiddling with the 500 splits some cable-guy rushed into place 20 years ago, etc. Let me emphasize, it's pretty awesome, there's a reason why the reviews on the products are so awesome.
    https://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ (you'll likely need 2)
    https://www.amazon.com/PACK-Broadband-Ethernet-Generation-Supplies/dp/B01AYMGPIO/ (this is a paired kit)
    latency associated with MoCA is ~3ms; latency from Wifi is 3-100ms. MoCA tends to be VERY consistent.


  2. A switch is a switch to some extent. I generally buy whatever is cheap from TP-Link or netgear. As long as it's gigabit.
  3. The best way to improve your wifi is to probably add on another access point (or router repurposes as an AP) and set it with the same network name(SSID) and password
    https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/
  4. Flat ethernet cable is worse. At the same price, go for full, round ethernet... with that said, if being flat allows you to "get away" with it, it'll often work. I personally have used flat cables without issue and it often goes a long way with getting others to "approve". If your walls are white or you already have an existing cable... it disappears.
u/bbsittrr · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

OP, take a look at this

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT

Or, a sub favorite, Ubiquiti router plus Ubiquiti AP

Note: if the back haul is wired (and I am not familiar with any mesh products that do it that way), it's like having APs, not mesh anyway.

>Along with this I am going to run hardlines for wall jacks in each of the bedrooms and one for the back of the house.

And, in doing this, hard wire anything that doesn't move: TV, desktop PC, DVR, etc. That gets that traffic off the airwaves, reduces congestion, and is faster.

u/KingdaToro · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You don't want a second router. You should never have more than one router, because only the device that's connected to the modem should actually function as a router. What you want is a switch and access point.

If you already have a router that you want to use, you can just put it in Access Point mode, or if it doesn't have this, disable NAT, DHCP, and firewall. But if you need to buy something, buy the right things instead of buying a router that won't be doing any routing.

u/cellman25 · 4 pointsr/ATT

My wifi sucks from my AT&T modem as well. I went with installing two of these access points in my house: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT TP-Link EAP-225, they are connected to the modems ethernet switch ports. I have two installed, one on each floor. I then turned off the modems wifi. My wifi has been great since and they have been trouble free, house is around 4000sqft.

u/ERIFNOMI · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You can get a good AP for much less than $100. An EAP225 is $60.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT

u/chronop · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Don't buy another router, you already have one. Buy an access point such as a TP-Link EAP225, EAP245, or Unifi UAP-AC-Lite. Give it an IP address on the same subnet as your router (if your router is 1.1, pick 1.2 or 1.254 or something out of the DHCP scope) and make the WiFi network the same details as your current setup. Your client will figure out which AP to connect to based on signal strength.

u/gpb500 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Something like this?

u/michrech · 2 pointsr/homelab

If you're just wanting to add some WiFi in a WiFi-weak area, you want an access point, not a router. Something like this would work.

u/FantasticPhenom · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Tldr: single EAP225 added on to what you already have. Costs around $70, should be a night/day difference in terms of WiFi performance.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/
an alternative is the Ubiquiti AC Lite. The AC Lite costs a bit more and has lower performance, it does look better though which might be useful if you need "wife approval".

>The modem i am using is sbg6580

This unit is a single band device and its WiFI performance SUCKS. I've used it before. The performance is just bad. It's passing as a router/modem though. You probably don't need to replace it, unless you're paying a rental fee in which case DO REPLACE IT because the rental fee isn't worth it.


Disable the WiFi on the 6580 and get something like a TP-Link EAP225. It's dual band (2.4GHz + 5GHz) and each of those bands performs better than what the 6580 can do. It's also a lot easier to position in a strategic location which in general helps with WiFi performance (distance/walls kill WiFi).

----

When funds/time allows, DO try to hard-wire everything you can, especially if it's far away. If you're in a big building you can even add more than one of the wireless access points I listed and this would expand coverage a lot.

u/larrylarrington03 · 2 pointsr/wifi

That's only if you are converting a wifi router into an access point. Follow these instructions:
https://www.cnet.com/how-to/how-to-turn-an-old-wi-fi-router-into-an-access-point/

You don't need to do that if you buy an actual access point, like this one:


TP-Link EAP225 V3 Wireless MU-MIMO Gigabit Ceiling Mount Access Point, Supports 802.3af PoE and Passive PoE(Injector Included), AC1350 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kqIZCb7WK1SBS

Get a better understanding of what you're doing with this video:

https://youtu.be/Vc16CCAAz7Q

u/Mr_Goose · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Perfect. This is the one I was looking at.

TP-Link EAP225 V3 Wireless MU-MIMO Gigabit Ceiling Mount Access Point, Supports 802.3af PoE and Passive PoE(Injector Included), AC1350 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RiKUBb7VM90JJ

It does look like it has power included. But where I’m putting the AP it has power right next to it, so I got lucky with that.

Now when this gets setup into my system. Will my phone and what not have to connect to it separately? Or will it mirror the same SSID and what not as my wireless router?

u/themedicd · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

How do you have the second router configured? Two routers on one network is going to cause problems. You either need to turn off routing on the second router (if that's even an option), or you need an actual AP (I like the TP Link EAPs https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT?th=1&psc=1)

u/greatrudini · 1 pointr/PFSENSE

Not totally against picking up the SG-3100; not sure what my initial reservation was. I do like the form factor.

Also, i considered getting a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ to serve as APs throughout my home. Shouldn't have any issues with those, right?

Thank you all!

PS: The current Netgears are 802.11n - hoping to upgrade to ac (or better?) as part of all this...

u/corsairdominator · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'm too lazy to write things out

watch this, it's conceptually the same for DECA.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhCaZqxVAJE

get a cheap AP
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT

u/K_Redi · 1 pointr/homeautomation

TP-Link EAP225 V3 Wireless MU-MIMO Gigabit Ceiling Mount Access Point, Supports 802.3af PoE and Passive PoE(Injector Included), AC1350 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GUO9Ab1TBD5V0

u/xanksnap · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks this worked but now I have more questions:

I currently have 1 router, and 2 more routers running in "bridge mode". I assume that means that they are running as access points. I have them all wired with ethernet from the main router so I assume they are getting the internet signal over the wired network and then rebroadcasting it as wi-fi. They are all Linksys EA4500 model routers. Each is currently brodcasting a 2.4ghz and 5ghz signal, so I previously had 6 SSIDs total. Once I scan my neighborhood:

  1. I find all the channels everyone is using, and pick the least used channel on my device, right?

  2. Do I set the same, least used channel on all 3 of my devices or do I need to find like 6 different least used channels across my neighborhood and set 2 for each device (1 for the 2.4ghz and 1 for the 5ghz)?

  3. If I understand this concept correctly, my mobile and wifi devices are smart enough to 'latch onto' and 'release' wifi networks based on signal strength; the access points and routers don't need to communicate with each other to pick up and handoff devices, right?

  4. so who needs a 'mesh network'? I was under the assumption that the mesh network was needed to pick up and handoff devices and distribute the network load and stuff. It seems, from my understanding, that if you have a weak signal somewhere in your house, all you need to do is get an access point or two, connect it to your network with an ethernet cable and have it rebroadcast your wifi signal and find a channel that isnt crowded in your neighborhood and use that. Am I missing something? Is the only benefit of a mesh network is for people who dont want to run ethernet between access points and so are buying devices with a dedicated wi-fi band that can handle the backhaul without contaminating the 'internet' bandwidth?

  5. do you have a recommendation for access points I can stick around the house so I blanket my house with seamless wifi coverage? is this a good one for what I want: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wireless+access+point&qid=1573065820&sr=8-5

    thank you!
u/AndrewG2000 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Depending on how close to $100 you want to stick, you might do best just ditching the wireless on your existing router and setting up matching access points upstairs and downstairs. Here are some 802.11ac wave 2 access points that come in at "around" $100 for a pair:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/

https://www.amazon.com/Grandstream-Mid-Tier-802-11ac-Beam-Forming-Technology/dp/B071XTVSXL/

If you disable the wireless radios on your existing router, and set up a pair of access points, you would have one SSID that would provide better transitions between upstairs and downstairs.

u/studylikehermione · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I have an SBG6580 and am looking at getting either this:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Dual-Band-passive-UAP-AC-LITE/dp/B016K4GQVG

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_zhWKAbGA77383

and just putting the SBG into bridge mode disabling the wireless radio. I've read this is a decent solution.

u/safhjkldsfajlkf · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking
u/lilotimz · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

It's a waste of money spending $250 on a mesh setup with dedicated backhaul radios if you're not going to use it when a superior option of running MOCA backhaul exist.

You can get 3 AC Lite's or 4 EAP 225 for the same price as as the RBK40 setup.

Does all your houses coax cables converge into the basement? If so then all you need to do is get a simple wire only router like an Edgerouter X and connect an ethernet cable from the router to a MOCA adapter connected to the COAX splitter.

Then at the locations you want to have good wifi you'll need another moca adapter connected to the coax coming out of the wall and ethernet out into a wireless access point like the two mentioned above. In addition you can have say ethernet switches connected to the MOCA adapters. This way you can plug in devices like your PS4, desktops, etc in addition to a WAP at the same time. Doing this will reliably get you the 150 mbps you're paying for at each location.

u/Nagarakta · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I may Pick your brain when my kit arrives. I went for a cheap gigabit switch and the TP-Link EAP225

u/GrossOil · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Should I just keep my existing router, turn off wireless, and then buy an ac accesspoint like this one TP-LINK EAP 225 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y6Y9AbGWRKSF4). ?

u/Alt_Shift_Delete · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thank you for such a detailed reply. After your reply and checking out those links the other comments make much more sense to me.

i checked out the equipment you recommended, read more about them online to get a better understanding but its very expensive for me.

I thought I'd buy a cheaper router for example
archer c50. or archer C7. and get one of the UAP you mentioned but apparently getting equipment from different companies causes problems in switching connections automatically when you move around the house, so it'd be better to get ones from the same company.

Cause of that what do you think about one of those archer C50 or C7 with a TP link access point like AC1350.??

Yes regarding your last paragraph i got that sorted out yesterday. Asked Verizon to convert COAX to ethernet. Yes its through the MoCA adapter in case I decide to get TV services from verizon in the future.

u/1new_username · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

If you can run Ethernet cable, then that is the best option. I've never had good luck with Powerline adapters.

That said, if the distance isn't really that bad, your best bet is to get a new Wireless Access point. Here is a good one if you don't want to spend too much:

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/

I would advise against getting another router. Two routers in a network can create issues unless you really know what you are doing. For a wireless access point though, you just run a network cable from your Verizon router to the access point, and then set it up with a new network name (say VerizonSucks) and password, etc. Then you connect your devices to it. For bonus points, if you know how, go into your Verizon router and turn off the wireless to reduce interference.

The only exception would be if you are Internet only (no TV or phone from Verizon). In that case, you should be able to ditch the Verizon router all together, and plug in your own router directly. If you have TV or phone though, you have to keep their router.

u/sivartk · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'm going to upgrade my wireless in my house come fall (when it cools off below 110 in the attic) and I'm looking at the TP-Link EAP225 for about $65 as it should suite my needs. If I can get the EAP245 on sale for about the same price I'll go for that. I only have about 5 total active wireless devices (at the most) at any time, so the throughput of the EAP225 should be plenty for me, but your situation may be different.

(Oh, and I'm sure people will recommend the Ubiquiti Access Points too. They are on my watchlist for a sale, too...so whichever is cheaper is what I'll end up with).

u/jacle2210 · 1 pointr/wifi

lol, gotta love a vague answer, lol.

So, if he wants just strong WiFi access, then a plain WiFi Access Point will be all he needs.

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=tp%2Blink%2Baccess%2Bpoint&qid=1566684082&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

Here is hoping that he's done the needful when he had that long Ethernet cable run to the shop and ensured that its grounded properly.

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History


  • TP-Link AC1350 Wireless MU-MIMO Gigabit Ceiling Mount Access Point EAP225   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.3/5 from 140 valid reviews
    CamelCamelCamel - [Info]Keepa - [Info]

    _
    Always check the prices. The savings can be Knight and day.
    ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fcdde1m%2Famazonca_prime_day_2019megathread%2Fetufibb%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
    %0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
u/LeKKeR80 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Can always add more wireless access points (APs) if the house is already wired. The other option is to put a switch in the basement and put the router in a central location.