Reddit reviews TP-LINK TL-PoE150S PoE Injector Adapter, IEEE 802.3af compliant, up to 100 meters (325 Feet),Gigabit -10/100/1000,Black

I've done that exact setup.

2 of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-Dedicated-Management-NS-5ACL-US/dp/B078NN1J4K/

1 of these for within the barn
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-GREENnet-Switching-Protection-TPE-TG82G/dp/B074PXNRFH/

1 of these for inside the house:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/


If you want wifi out there you can do a LR:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-UAP-AC-LR-Single-Version/dp/B01609AF22/

Cameras you can use a variety. but even at 4k resolution with h264 you're at 75 mbps with 4 cameras at 30fps.

one camera option:
https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Outdoor-Security-Surveillance-Waterproof/dp/B0776S8N8X/


edit: i also suggest a battery backup to clean power up in remote buildings. esp if they're old
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/

I don't think there's any non-Cisco equipment that can do that, but you could buy a passive PoE injector. It only powers one cable, but it is cheaper than buying a whole Cisco PoE switch.

Like this: TL-PoE150S

Or you could just buy a Cisco power brick (keep in mind it needs an IEC C13 cable), which is about the same price: Cisco CP-PWR-CUBE

The Cisco IP phones are very cool, so I hope you get them working.

No, the 24V ones only work with the older AC-Lite and AC-LR (and the Nanobeam, etc non-UniFi products).

I've used this model TP-Link PoE injector for a 802.3af UniFi AP (AC-Pro) before and it works fine.

Network cabling everywhere. Even if you aren't in tech, you'll still find tremendous use out of this. Some requirements if I were to get it done custom:

• At least one ethernet jack per room, maybe two per room on opposite sides if I could splurge. These are called network drops.
  
• For each ethernet jack, run TWO ethernet cat5/6 per drop, because if one of them breaks or fails, you don't want to be the one that has to rewire a second one from your network closet to the jack. Also useful for testing if the cable is the culprit or if your networking gear is at fault. You don't have to hook up both cables on both sides, just choose one cable per jack to connect and the other is left dangling until you need it.
  
• Addendum to above, if you want to be very fancy, get ceiling mounted wireless access points and have a network drop in the ceiling where the WAP will be mounted. You can get WAPs that are powered over an ethernet cable (called Power over Ethernet, PoE) and you would need a PoE Injector with your switch equipment to supply enough power over the lines (though some network switches PoE inject by default, so look for those if you want convenience), or you can wire another power outlet to where the WAP will go in parallel to the network drop that should be there too. Unless your home layout is convoluted, one, maybe two WAPs per floor is sufficient, usually in the common areas of each floor. Too many will cause interference with each other and you'll have a bad wifi signal. You can go with consumer grade TPLink or Netgear (ceiling mounted, remember, not just any old wireless router), or go with a more enterprise Ubiquity WAP (what we use).
  
• Find a good spot for your networking gear, preferably near your home "demarc" AKA where your internet comes into the house at. Or, move the demarc into a closet for easier access. Have a patch panel set up that all of the network drops from the rooms connects to, and then you would connect each jack on the patch panel to a network switch, which then has one uplink (connection) to your home modem/router. Of course, the patch panel and network switch have to have at least as many ports as you have network drops to rooms, so if you have 16 drops, you'll have to get a 16 port patch panel and a 16+1 port switch (+1 because you have to have one connection to your uplink router/modem).
  
• Not 100% necessary, but if you like having internet during power outages, or just momentary power in general during an outage, get a UPS or two or four... It will provide battery backup power to whatever is plugged into it for a certain amount of time, depending on the electrical load (how many devices you have plugged in, and how much power each device uses). I personally have 4 UPSs all around the house. One for the bedroom, and our phone chargers are plugged into them so we still have charged phones if a power outage happens overnight; one for our desktop computers (avid gamers :P); one for our networking equipment (power spike usually means you lost your internet and it has to reboot. I haven't had to deal with since getting a UPS unless the outage lasts for longer than 30-45 minutes!); and one for the living room TV setup and consoles. If you could only get one, I'd recommend it for the networking gear so you still have internet during momentary spikes. Useful for cell phones and laptops!
  
  This turned out longer than I expected, so if anything is confusing or you want more details, let me know!

ich hab die hier bestellt, zusammen mit diesen PoE Injektoren.
Ich find sie ganz gut für den Preis. Können eben das was ich wollte (PoE, Nachtsicht, FullHD, Motionsensor], und bei amazon hätt ich sie auch problemlos umtauschen können wenn ich sie nicht gut gefunden hätte. Du brauchst allerdings entweder ein DVR-System mit dem du die Cams koppeln kannst, oder einen Windowsrechner mit etwas Festplattenplatz auf dem die Software dazu läuft (ich hab nen kleinen Server mit diversen VMs im Keller, der übernimmt das bei mir) wenn du aufzeichnen willst - das Kameramodell hat keine internen Speichermöglichkeiten. Cloudintegration geht wohl auch, hab ich aber nicht aktiv.

Bonus: Obwohl Chinakram funken die Geräte scheinbar nicht nach hause. Mein Wireshark meldet nichts Verdächtiges.

You don't need a PoE switch -- most of Ubiquiti's APs come with an injector, and if the one you end up with doesn't for some reason, gigabit injectors are readily available (and don't need to be UBNT branded).

​

The UAP-AC-PRO or UAP-nanoHD are probably the two you'll want to consider, especially if you plan on getting 3x3 wireless clients down the road (if you don't have any already). :)

your camera is POE. you cannot power it directly from your PC.

if your regular wifi router is not POE, it will also not power the camera.

you need a POE power injector, such as : https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/

however, you describe lights coming on, so i'm assuming you've got it powered up....

​

most IP cameras will boot up into their default IP address.

this should be in the documentation included w/the cam.

whatever your cameras default IP is, your computer needs to be in the same domain.

if camera is 192.168.1.10 as default, your computer needs to be 192.168.1.X

you'll set your computer to that IP address, and then connect the network port through your POE injector and connect to the camera. you should see it then.

once you can log into the camera, you can set the IP address to whatever the rest of your network uses.

This link is just an example. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-Adapter/dp/B001PS9E5I

For Echo I would consider making my own by cutting the end off of the Amazon power brick and splicing the ends into a network cable, RJ45 male end and RJ45 female end.

Edit: here's someone that made their own somewhat ghetto power injector. Same idea. http://tech.firstpost.com/news-analysis/how-to-make-a-power-over-ethernet-poe-adapter-19818.html

Most likely just the blue/white blue pair will be connected if you only have one phone line(it could be anything, but I think the blue pair is most common). You can replace the wall plates with a keystone plate and punch a cat 5 block onto the existing cable.

On the other end you will need to have something connected to it, but you could get creative if you don't want to have the router/modem in the closet near the existing box.

What I mean is you can plug the router into any of those ports in any room, and then terminate all of those lines in the box with an RJ45 plug and add a switch in the box.

But wait? There's no power in there! Precisely! You can get a TP link PoE injector (router side) and a Netgear switch with a "PD" port which will be powered by the 12v PoE voltage.

Just for reference, here is an example PoE injector. Not being limited to batter opens up options if you can run the wire: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

I don’t have any camera recommendations for you. But I did have a really shitty night camera for awhile. I ended up setting up an external IR light to make up for it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6K407Q

So that’s something to keep in mind if you are unhappy with whatever you get or want lighting from another source

I'm a really big fan of Hikvision cameras. They feel really solid for the price and image quality is very good. I'm looking pretty hard at an Amcrest for my next cam. They're getting decent reviews for the price too.

If you do get a Hikvision, look closely at whether the seller is an authorized distributor. I've gotten a grey-market camera and it was ok, but for a few $ more you can also get support and english firmware updates.

For myself, I have one of these in my garage
DS-2CD2332-I-2.8MM

I have one of these on my front porch.
DS-2CD2142FWD-IS-2.8MM

I have one of these powering them both NETGEAR ProSAFE FS108PNA

An unfinished basement and vinyl siding makes mounting exterior cams more tolerable. http://imgur.com/a/qufyW

For setup / testing, I keep one of these around TP-LINK Gigabit PoE Injector TL-PoE150S

I've also installed many more cameras for friends and family.

One 16 cam setup used a dedicated Hikvision DVR unit, DS-7716NI-SP/16-2TB. It has the PoE switch built in. Setup was pretty quick and he's still really happy with it. Runtime on a 1500VA UPS is pretty respectable too.

• 1x DS-2CD2132F-I-4MM
  
• 10x DS-2CD2032-I-4MM
  
• 1x DS-2CD2232-I5-4MM
  
• 4x DS-2CD2112F-I-2.8MM
  
  I've got a buddy with 8x DS-2CD2032-I-4MM powered by a Passive 10/100 Power over Ethernet PoE Injector. He's having pretty good luck with that setup.
  
  At work we install mostly Axis cameras, but we're trying 24 Avigilon cameras for one section of student housing. They seem pretty well built too. This is a mostly positive post, the only cameras I HATE are made by Arecont Vision.
  
  If you haven't decided on software, I've got an opinion on that too.
  
  I'm running Milestone XProtect Go on a spare PC. It's free for up to 8 cameras, up to 5 days of retention, no charge for the clients. I am familiar since I manage an XProtect Enterprise install at work, but it can be a pain to set up at first.
  
  I've also played with Blue Iris and ZoneMinder. I think Blue Iris is the way to go for most folk.

Get a Ubiquiti ER-X for routing and a used Zoneflex 7962 with a tplink poe injector for wifi:

https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=0XK-000W-00080
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Ruckus-ZoneFlex-7962-PoE-Access-Point-300-Mbps-Wi-Fi-/222336422560
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I

That is $114.34 in total.

Those will be cheaper and work better than many of the combination units. Be sure to enable the smart queue on the ER-X so that your gaming pings remain low even if you are doing background downloads.

Setting up the ruckus unit will require resetting it before you can log into it. The reset is a bit cumbersome, but once you have done it and have set it up, you will love it. It's radio technology is years ahead of anything that you will encounter on the market (despite that being a 802.11n model). It shines when the radio waves are congested or you try going far from the AP. I have gotten a usable 2.4Ghz wifi signal on my cellphone from a ruckus 7982 at 300ft away with 2 walls obstructing the signal. :)

Ubiquiti EdgeRouter POE

or any OpenWrt-compatible router and a couple of POE Injectors

> Turns out this beast does not have poe

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I

VDSL (aka extended reach ethernet) would be the most robust as you don't have midspan unit. I've had great luck with the startech units, these look like carbon copies of those units for $100 less--

https://www.amazon.com/Tupavco-Ethernet-Extender-Kit-Repeater-VDSL/dp/B01BOD8C9W/

Otherwise, PoE powered switch/repeater midspan sounds like the ticket. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Gigabit-IEEE802-3af-Security-Splitter/dp/B07FMNHYP8

And an injector:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

Having something that needs an outlet to plug into halfway just feels half baked. 398 feet I'd roll the dice on forcing 10/100 first to see if it works. I've had gigabit work over longer.

The camera is connected to this PoE injector. The injector itself is connected to this repeater. It has a ethernet port that can be used to either connect the repeater via cable or to "translate the wifi to ethernet". The repeater is connected to my Unifi ap. Thats it.

I just don't wanted a normal wifi camera for security reasons. Also it wasn't possible for me to run a network cable to the camera itself. That's why I use this "complicated" method.

Edit: here is a really crappy picture I drawed on mobile :D

I got you. I have a similar setup. So here’s what you need.


Wilson Electronics Wideband Directional Antenna 700-2700 MHz, 50 Ohm (314411) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J14YEHQ/

Buy two of these. Place on a pole as high as you can get it. Mount them 45° and -45°. That’s how LTE is polarized.

Example: https://www.solwise.co.uk/images/images3g/4g-ren6702709-lpda-5.png


Heavy Duty Weather Proof Multi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FSKZM

Put the M1 in this on the pole too.

Use this to send power up the Outdoor cat6 cable:


TP-LINK TL-PoE150S PoE Injector Adapter, IEEE 802.3af Compliant, up to 100 Meters (325 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PS9E5I/

And this to pull the power out of the Cat6


ANVISION Gigabit PoE Splitter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PW9FJNT

Then convert the mini to USB C:


ARKTEK USB-C Adapter, USB Type C (Male) to Micro USB (Female) Syncing Data Transfer and Charging Converter for Chromebook Galaxy S10 Note 9, Pixel 3 and More (Black/White, Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0ZAJXO/

Ok.

That’ll get you where you want. Don’t get a booster or anything else. It’ll make your signal slower.

Put the whole thing on the pole because if you leave it inside you’ll get a lot of signal loss along those long cables.

———

Now the M1 is a 4x4 MIMO which claims it can get you gigabit speeds. But once you plug in the external antennas you’ll get 2x2 MIMO. the only way to solve this is a bit hacky.

You’ll need this:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183651187710

(This isn’t me but it’s the only guy I’ve seen selling these wires)

Then you’ll need two of these:

weBoost Outdoor Directional Yagi Antenna with N Female Connector 301111 for 700/800/900 MHz Band https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006H4FVM/

These will be you MAIN antennas. While the other covered ones will be your additional.

To explain. LTE towers send out 45° 800mhz, -45° 800mhz, 45° 2700 MHz, and -45° 2700 MHz You need an antenna for each. This will get you the fastest speed and best reliability. But this is hacky. I haven’t done this, YET. I’ve just planned it all out. I’m using a LB1211 with two covered yagis. I’ve gotten up to 70mbps with just that 2x2 setup (in a valley).

I plan on getting an M1 with 4 antennas soon, but right now my pole situation sucks. I need to figure out a better solution first. Then I’ll be comfortable spending that much more money. But just getting those two covered yagis and putting you M1 up until the pole, you’ll get a much better issue

No, you wouldn't.

All you would need is a laptop or desktop with a PoE Ethernet port.

Since that's highly unlikely, you could buy a PoE injector for under $20-

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

They make an adapter that takes PoE and converts it to USB +5VDC to power the camera.

http://www.vidabox.com/kiosks/vidapower-power-adapter-vcharger-cat5-to-usb-poe-power-over-ethernet.html

Here's the PoE injector we use:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Injector-Adapter-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1473772431&sr=1-3&keywords=poe+injector

I think you are a little confused. PoE = Power over Ethernet (which by definition requires an Ethernet cable). Maybe tell us what equipment (Brand / Model) you have and what you are trying to accomplish and then we can help you.

I can try and read between the lines and say that you have a PoE Access Point and want to use it in the garage as a repeater instead of an access point (since you can't get a ethernet cable to it). You could still power it by PoE with an PoE injector in the garage for power only. You will just have to buy an injector that uses the same PoE standard as your device.

You want an 802.3af injector.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Injector-Adapter-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I

What kind of router do you have (name and brand)?

Your router probably doesn't support PoE. In that case, you will need to use an PoE injector for the camera. If you need to support multiple PoE devices, get a PoE switch.

I have a bunch of Amcrest cameras. I honestly have zero familiarity with the protocols/standrds you are referencing.

I have 3 different types of POE Injectors that I use on my network, for various reasons.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRO4M73/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GECC11O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PS9E5I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They all work with no issues.

TP-LinkTL-POE150S POE Injector (Black) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l84OCbX671W85

Is this the same thing?

There isn't really much to it. You can either use a PoE capable network switch or get a PoE injector. Just have that inside somewhere safe near a mains socket and the Cat5 plugged into the output will run outside and into the enclosure. The PoE splitter I linked above then splits out the power, regulates it to 5V and terminates in a RJ45 plug for Ethernet + micro-USB plug for power. Not all PoE splitters will regulate down to 5V so check before buying it. Just plug both wires into the RPi and you're good to go. The RPi doesn't know or care that it is using PoE because it is all handled before it sees anything. There is a PoE HAT for the RPi but it is far more expensive and you don't gain anything useful apart from it screwing onto the top of the RPi as a HAT.

> Enclosing stuff would be great, assuming you can also dissipate the heat.

I've not had any problems with heat buildup. If it is in direct sunlight and acting like a mini greenhouse then you might need to work out some way of shading it. You want a certain amount of heat anyway to ensure no condensation and so it doesn't get too cold during the winter.

>Will each line on the network require PoE or just the ones feeding the Aps?

Just the ones feeding the APs. The APs use PoE exclusively.

PoE stands for "Power over Ethernet", which is just like it sounds. Devices need to support PoE for the switch to send power over the Ethernet connection.

You can connect a non-PoE device to a PoE port and that would work fine, no worry you'll "fry" anything by doing that. But PoE devices need PoE ports, unless you want to use the provided injector (more below).

>
>Along those lines, a few of my LAN runs have small switches I used to feed other hard points. Rather than one powered switch for the network can i use individual/ PoEs for each AP?

You can indeed use what's called a "PoE Injector" to power each AP individually .

The ceiling APs (the ones that look like flying saucers - The nanoHD, Pro, and Lite models) come with this Injector free!

However, the In-Walls do not come with a PoE Injector. You'd have to buy one for each separately. The In- Walls use a PoE standard known as "802.3af", and you want to make sure the Injector you buy also supports gigabit speeds (some are only 10/100, make sure you dont buy these).

Here is one that would work:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=poe+injector+af&qid=1574915029&sr=8-3


If you go with all Injectors, you don't need to buy the PoE switch at all

>I'm guessing you need the extra power to amplify the wifi signal. Does it work that way?

No, it's not "extra power to amplifi", it really is just simply powering the APs for regular use. There is no other way to power them; they do not have a "power plug".

Be sure to watch a few YouTube videos on how to set up the Ubiquiti gear you choose before you buy. Make sure you are comfortable with the technical skill you need to administer them. It's a step up from your basic home router setup.

Could have been Power Over Ethernet (PoE).

If the old router supported PoE on its LAN ports, it was probably powering the switch over the ethernet link. If the new router does not have PoE LAN ports, it will not be able to power the switch, and the switch will not work. You'll need a router with PoE LAN ports, or an intermediary device that can supply PoE.

Maybe something like this would need to sit in between the router & switch....about $20 & will have to be plugged in to a power outlet.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Gigabit-Injector-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

I think staying with 6 is fine. Most people will say if you are wiring now to go with 6a because the cost is similar but I find it is thicker and harder to bend. If you really want to future proof then you could go with 6a but right know 10Gbps is a little excessive.


AP wise you call Ubiquity expensive but the newest UAP-AC-PRO is the same price as the Linksys and will be much better, it is hard to find now because of limited supply. Sorry Its actually $20 more



I would spend a little extra for the Edgerouter Lite over the X but they are similar.



Unless I missed it I don't think you mentioned how many wall jacks you will have. So I will assume 24 drops. A good 24 port non POE switch is This normally $160 is on sale for $100
And This for POE only 8 ports though

EDIT

Sorry didn't release the netgear switch wasn't all POE you might be better off with a cheap 8-10 Port switch and POE Injectors


Like /u/topcat5 said you can get UAP-AC-LITE for $90.

Something like this for the POE Injector should work.

Then something comparable to this would work for the battery backup. The higher the VA the longer the runtime.

Just get some actual PoE equipment. You can get a nice Netgear switch that does PoE for only $65. This would be a good choice if you think you might have more PoE devices in the future.

An cheaper solution would be to get a PoE injector.

There are a number of active PoE dongles out there, too that would work with the Pi, as far as powering it.

Another option on the Pi end is a HAT specifically designed for this purpose.

Depending on which way you go, it looks like you could do it as cheaply as $30.

I would recommend against what the other commenter has suggested, though. PoE standards are designed with Cat5/5e/6 cabling in mind and should include some over-current and over-voltage protection to prevent overloading the wires in the cable, which are meant only for low voltage and current. If you were to accidentally short something or have an electrical fault with a homebrew system, you'd run the risk of starting a fire, and given that a homebrew setup that was properly done wouldn't end up being all that much less expensive (after buying adapters and plugs and power adapters and such), it's better to go with a professionally made solution. It's unlikely that you'd have an issue, but better to play it safe than sorry. Besides, the purpose-built equipment is likely to give you fewer headaches over time.

Here is a post I found about what you're trying to do. Apparently it shouldn't ruin anything, but it may or may not work.

I'd say your best option would be to pick up something like this. As long as it's 802.3af or 802.3at compliant it will work with the AP.

If the patch panel you have says anything about 802.3af/at then it should be able to be used.

Cat5e should be plenty fast for home use.

Like the other guy said, you really need to get power here and a switch. If you want to do it right, you could terminate all the wiring into a patch panel, then attach those ports to your switch. That gives you a nice setup to centralize network equipment.

Examples:
Patch: https://www.amazon.com/Dshot12-Cat5e-network-Mount-Surface/dp/B00NTWK8VW/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=patch+panel&qid=1572791966&sprefix=Patch+&sr=8-8

Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1008D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Network/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch&qid=1572792046&sprefix=8+po&sr=8-6



Edit:

Thinking more, if you absolutely can't get power in there you could probably do a PoE (power over ethernet) powered switch here, with a PoE power injector on another line.

Something like this in the closet: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122614

Then the port on there for power would need to lead to something like this in another room: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=poe+injector&qid=1572793212&sprefix=poe+i&sr=8-3

OP........... Just no.

A couple of points:

1. Good idea in theory not in practice.
   
   
2. This proposed splitting would significantly violate ANSI/TIA/EIA 568A and 568B, leading to increased crosstalk and EMI, leading to extremely poor SNR on the cables. TL;DR: The end devices would not be able to communicate with all the noise.
   
   
3. Please just get a 802.3af POE injector? They're cheap, and most of the conform to the proper standards for reliable and efficient data transfer. For example, this model from Amazon.
   
   
4. Another option would be to get a used POE switch. Got my 24 port gigabit model that has plenty of power per port, for $60 used at an auction. It currently runs my six Cisco 7960 VoIP Phones, and the plan is to use it to run my IP cameras once I move from my apartment.

Note after reading thread I use use these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I
:)

If you can afford it, go for the Ubiquiti Switch 8. I personally hate having tons wires and plugs filling up power strips.
https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-switching/unifi-switch-8/

Otherwise, if your wanting to keep it really cheap a PoE injector will work. I wouldn't go for that ebay one, instead go for a more reputable company that has a good warranty. TPLink has one for a few bucks more but has a 3 year warranty. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I

Yes,

If that access point does not use an AC power adapter, then you will need a Power-over-Ethernet Injector which adds DC power to the cable to power the device.
This is because your router does not have PoE from what i briefly skimmed. If it does, disregard that ish.

Said device: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_X.o1CbVJEVEEV

Posted from Android.

Yeah, I thought this was for eeros, but the comment would be the same for cameras.

Something like this.

I would take him up on his offer, not necessarily his advice. Get a used computer and just purchase needed poe injector:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-Adapter/dp/B001PS9E5I/

Injectors are pretty cheap
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

I certainly may just go the route of running a long cord and using the 3M products. What about:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS105PE-Pass-through-GS105PE-10000S/dp/B00J8NAWZ8?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Gigabit-Injector-Adapter-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464783035&sr=1-4&keywords=poe+injector

TP-Link TL-POE150S, which is $18 on Amazon. They list a splitter there for cheaper; That pulls power out of a PoE drop for non-PoE devices like Raspberry Pis, so it won't be useful for you.

That module is running passive 802.3af, which is standard vanilla 15.4w Power over Ethernet. My rather crufty old 3550 PoE switch will power my 3502E APs, which is the same power output, so I don't doubt this will power your 3502I just fine.

Hi, if not a PCI slot, maybe ISA? If you really want to gwt this working you might unplug the sound card (however, being this old, maybe it only comes with an Internal speaker?)

For ISA devices there's:

-NE2000

• 3COM 3C503
  
  Once you managed to get an Ethernet Card working, than the Job is done. At this point if you had a raspberry you would use it as Wifi to Ethernet Bridge adapter or simply buy a Bridge Adapter like this. In this way you'd be able to fast-connect to any wfi network with DOS (I do so)
  
  Otherwise you can Remote-Band connect to your telephone line using a RJ-11 port, through a dial-up modem
  
  You will need a dial-up ISP account, an analogue phone, a dial-up Modem and a RJ-11 cable...all oh which are not so obvious these days(.....this reminds of my childhood spent hacking with a 28 Kb/s connection)
  
  If you got everything, then you'll may want to give a look to this page to start understanding how to dial-up connection works in MS-DOS
  
  
  If no one of these is viable/bearable, then there's Spider_Gilgamesh' solution, using a USB to Serial adapter and configuring again Rpi to act as modem. I think it's theoretically correct don't see why it shouldn't work, so why do not you ask him whether he's put that solution in practice for real or not? and maybe ask for a walkthrough ;)

Assuming your switches there are not POE capable, you'll either need a power supply for the phone or a POE injector, something like this

Get yourself this, but remember only certain devices can be powered with POE, make sure what you're powering is one of those. https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=55223477679&hvadid=274679589486&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9008163&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11296999524037889642&hvtargid=kwd-297006276719&hydadcr=20137_9346292&keywords=poe+adapter&qid=1565434708&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I looked at the Hikvision-DS-2CD2032 and it is a great picture and the price doesn't hurt my wallet. When I looked it up at amazon it suggested that I also get these
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Gigabit-Injector-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_y

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SF1008P-100Mbps-8-Port-802-3af/dp/B003CFATT2/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z

since im thinking of getting 3 cameras do I need them?

So I cant use something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I?th=1

I use this switch:

Linksys 16-Port Business Desktop Gigabit PoE+ Switch (LGS116P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GECC11O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4avHybKEXXE7S

And have 9 POE cameras. The above switch only has 8 POE ports so either a full 16 port POE switch or adding some of these would work:

TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Injector Adapter (TL-PoE150S) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tcvHybQM8F5XQ

I use those injectors too and they work great.

Don't have a recommendation for a pre-built server bc I built my own to spec. Disk space, Memory, and a good CPU will do for this type of set up.

You're right. I've never actually used an adapter, as I've always just had PoE switches available. It's nice working for a company with good available resources and funding for dev/prod upgrades often. Makes more sense to put the injector on the switch side. Still, makes no sense to use them over a PoE switch, though.

Why are you assuming I'm using Ubiquiti throughout the whole network? I have an ER-X, that's my only Ubiquiti product at home. I see tons of people recommend other brands, for instance like a TP-Link AC1750 as a decent cheaper alternative to Ubiquiti APs. And look, it doesn't ship with a PoE adapter!! Dang! https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Supports-Technology-EAP245/dp/B01N0XZ1TU/ Only ~$80, instead of ~$130 for a UAP-AC-PRO (Which on Amazon it says it doesn't come with a PoE adapter either! https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-PRO-Access-Included/dp/B079DSW6XX/ ). So here's an one adapter for $20 https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ but wait, it can only push 15W! My Aruba APs can draw up to 25W. So less flexible, gotta get adapters for every AP, gotta power them near the switch, what a hassle.

It'd almost be awesome if there are affordable PoE switches available! Oh, look at this 8-port Gigabit PoE Managed switch for only ~$65! https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Lifetime-compliant-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ whereas a Unifi Switch 8 PoE is ~$110 https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-60W-US-8-60W/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ Plus, you'll probably need the cloudkey if you're gonna use UAPs, so there's another $80. And might as well throw in a USG while you're at it for another $120, since OP needs a router anyways.

So, we could do your Ubiquiti stack:

• UAP-AC-PRO - $130
  
• PoE Injector - $20
  
• USG - $130
  
• Cloudkey - $80
  
• Still will likely need some switch, unless OP has one already. USG doesn't have enough ports. Could get a good ole' Netgear GS108 for $50, only $15 cheaper than the TP-Link PoE version above, which if you're paying $20 to get an injector (and more if you need multiple injectors) that doesn't make much sense does it?
  
  And we'd see that setting up your Ubiquiti network will cost somewhere around $400.
  
  If we do the other brands:
  
  
• TP-Link 1750 - $80
  
• TP-Link SG108PE - $65
  
• We can use an ER-X as our gateway since it's relatively cheap - $60
  
  Wow, look how much simpler that is! And it only cost around $205!
  
  So, remind me again in which section it's cheaper to use the PoE injectors? OP (likely) needs a switch anyways. PoE switch is $15 more expensive than non. But you're paying $20 for one injector anyways (PoE switch is like getting (Edit: 4, not 8) injectors for only $15). Did I miss anything here?

You can make almost anything POE powered with one of these...

5 to 12vdc...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PS9E5I

or...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MOIDXZ0

So long as you have a DC powered POE switch, then everything else can be POE off of that.

or 24v: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Ubiquiti-Mikrotik-Switches-WT-AF-24v15w/dp/B01BE5UL4Y

We even run the lights in our cabinets (LED strips) off of POE to 12v adapters, stays on when the power's out :)