Reddit Reddit reviews Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)

We found 10 Reddit comments about Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Sports & Outdoors
Books
Mountaineering
Mountain Climbing
Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series)
Author: Eric J. HorstISBN#: 978-0-7627-4692-7Publisher: FalconPublication Date: 2008Jacket: paperback
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10 Reddit comments about Training for Climbing, 2nd: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance (How To Climb Series):

u/TundraWolf_ · 5 pointsr/climbing

there's a training program in Training for climbing by Horst,

the self coached climber

and The rock climber's training manual

I like the 2nd and 3rd the best, the 2nd I'd recommend for newer climbers (the footwork drills are very thorough), and the 3rd I'd recommend because it has a chapter that focuses on bouldering.

I don't really think you absolutely need a book, there are plenty of resources online to put together a solid plan, but a book is nice too :)

The best plan for fontainebleau is to throw yourself at slopers. Just watch your wrists.

u/zetavex · 4 pointsr/climbing

See a doctor, yes!

I could give you more advice but it is not going to do any good now that you have a injury. Climbers should try to avoid injury as a number one rule, especially tendon injuries. Tendon injuries take a long time to heal and even longer before they return to full strength.

3-4 evenings a week? How long have you been climbing. How are those days broken up. Most training guides I have read say that three days in a row is the absolute most you should climb if you are an elite level climber. Less if you are not. Make sure you getting rest.

If you feel a twinge in your tendons your best bet is to stop. For some reason if you can not make yourself stop then tape is a good option. Seek resources that show you how to sport tape your tendons. The information is readily out there if you look.

Repeatedly I tell people to find this book Training for Climbing . He has done the hard work for you and breaks it down in a concise manner.

I would stress the fact to seek medical professional if possible. Especially if you have insurance. The type of shooting pain, while typing nonetheless, is not something you want to wait around on to get better. In the mean time I would buddy tape the hell out of those fingers (immobilizing them).

This is where the heated debate starts as many people will tell you many many many different things. I love ice. Lots of ice. In addition I love ibuprofen. Many people will tell you that neither of those items are effective after the initial injury and will even slow down healing. If you have swelling in your fingers I find those two items to be a matter of do not forget. ever. I would ask your doctor and do your own research to find out what works for you.

As far as future prevention. I would try not to hang off holds by two fingers! lol. Climbing on plastic is also very hard on the tendons. Put those two things together and you have trouble. Try to save your massive efforts for outdoor climbing if possible, if you are into that type of thing.

Otherwise I would say warming up is extremely important. EXTERMELY. Warm tendons are more lastic than cold ones. Also make sure you are exercising antagonistic muscles in your forearm (hammer curls, reverse wrist curls). You have no muscles in your hand (well, you do have some below your thumb) so when you are holding on it is the mainly the forearm muscle that is supplying the muscle. An unbalanced muscle structure will put stress unevenly on the rest of your body (tendons for example). Also remember your tape.

u/tradotto · 3 pointsr/climbing

This book is a good start.

But figure out first if you want to turn your fun hobby into something you have to work for.

I try to break up the training and the just have fun aspect of climbing.

I use 2-3 months before season to train. After that I go to the gym to hang out and just have fun.

I break my training up into three phases

  1. Endurance (3-4 weeks):

    Up-down-ups, Laps

  2. Power (3-4 weeks):

    Bouldering

  3. Power endurance (2-3 weeks):

    4x4's
u/jbnj451 · 2 pointsr/climbing

There are drills in The Self-Coached Climber that are excellent for improving technique.

I also think The Rock Warriors Way is excellent for mental training and pushing your limits.

9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes has a wealth of information to improve.

Training for Climbing is excellent for ideas on training. The author's 10 year old son climbed a 5.14a at Maple Canyon, Utah (one of my favorite places to climb!).

Those should be a good start. Just go into the gym and have fun!

u/fayettevillainjd · 2 pointsr/climbharder

it all just depends what you are working on, and its important to alternate exercises. these are all good, but there are so many different combos that you cant really go too wrong. the 'hang 10, rest 5' is based on a time ratio that is proven to show results in all sports. I read about it in an Eric Hoorst book. This not only has great exercises for gym and hangboarding, but explains why they are good and how they should be utilized. it even helps you design workout schedules to target your weaknesses. great stuff

u/kgrayyeah · 2 pointsr/xxfitness

Sweet, so running laps will be a great tool as other people have pointed out.

I was going to spit some workout ideas to you... but ultimately, everything I would be saying is from this book: Training for Climbing. It is the shit. It gives clear workout plans, exercises, etc depending on your experience level and area of focus. It also goes into the science and history of climbing. It's 100% worth buying- it's an incredible reference tool for training.

u/StuckAtOnePoint · 1 pointr/climbing

Take a class from a certified mountain guide.

No, seriously. Take a class.

Failing that, find a partner who has 1) many many years of mountain experience. Offer to belay them anywhere and everywhere. Learn from them. 2) REALLY has many years of experience. There are quite a few folks who present themselves as experts but know fuck-all - it's terrifying.

Read read read and practice practice practice. Some good books are:

Moutaineering: Freedom of the Hills

How to Rock Climb! - John Long

Climbing Anchors - John Long

More Climbing Anchors - John Long

Training for Climbing - Eric Horst

Climbing Self Rescue - Tyson and Loomis


It is very important to realize that these skills should be second nature to you. When you are tired, cold, or frightened you should not be trying to remember how to rig a clove hitch on an equalette or set up a 3-to-1 to haul your partner over the crux of the 2nd pitch, in the dark. Buy gear, watch videos, read books and practice at home. Be confident without being over-confident.

Mountaineering (in all its forms) is a long slow progression of skill and judgement.

u/derglingrush · 1 pointr/climbing

Here ya go!

Seriously though, great book, tons of information on how to not only get better but avoid injury, etc. It also depends on what you want to get better at!

u/poorboychevelle · 1 pointr/bouldering

Eric Horst's books detail out a macro-cycle system thats weeks endurance building (takes the longest to build up but lasts the longest), 3 weeks of Power, 2 weeks Power Endurance, and then a week off, following by crushing everything. Can't say I've had the patience for it, but he and his kids are wicked strong so.....

http://www.amazon.com/Training-Climbing-Definitive-Improving-Performance/dp/0762746920

That one also has a bunch of additional stuff on diet, etc. That said, you ask 10 people, you'll get 10 answers.

u/middleclasshomeless · 1 pointr/Fitness

To improve in climbing you need sport specific training and weight loss.

The loss of ten pounds even when I am out of shape can drastically improve my climbing.

I highly recommend:
Training for Climbing

How to Climb 5.12
The Rock Warriors Way

I have heard that Dave Macleod's book
and Self Coached Climber
are also really good.