Reddit reviews TRENDnet 24-Port Cat6 Unshielded Patch Panel, TC-P24C6, Wallmount or Rackmount, Compatible w/ Cat 3/4/5/5e/6 Cabling, Gigabit/Fast Ethernet/Ethernet Ready, 250Mhz Connection to Copper Gigabit Switches

> but I do want a very reliable, modular, but manageable home network

Mah nig ... like-minded fellow.

 


> I will be subscribing to Comcast

I am so sorry for you :(

 

Ok, let's tackle wifi first as there is more to talk about here.

First off, yes, wireless access point (AP) is the correct name, very good, seriously, most people just call them "router" or thingamajig or whatever else.

Second, also very good on the idea to decouple everything from each other and to put multiple APs around the house. So many ask for a magical all-in-one device that can reach the moon with wifi and act as a NAS for a small country via one USB attached HDD.

So, the device: Ubiquiti UniFi

Why: it does what you want: the seamless handoff. Basically this allows you to roam around your house without dropping signal, as the APs know when to hand you off to the nearest one.

This is a feature that is rarely found in consumer grade gear, and works decently in even fewer devices. On the UniFi devices it is so good that it does not drop a VoIP call when transitioning.

There are various versions of the device, N is the normal standard, only on the 2.4Ghz band (use Wifi Analyzer on Android to check how your spectrum is), then there is Long Range, Pro, and even AC.

IMHO they are not worth the extra money, or rather, in your case where most devices are wired and with your internet speed, you would not have great benefits from faster wifi.

These devices are around or under $70 on Amazon.

> is there a simple way to have more than wireless access point

More than 1 or what are you after here?

If it's with the UniFi devices, you can add as many as you want, just need the ports on a switch.

 

Router: Unifi EdgeRouter Lite (ERL)

It's based on Vyatta, a Debian OS made for routers. It is super stable, a beast of a workhorse, and it has a ton of advanced features. IPsec VPN is probably the only advanced feature you will really care for (I assume).

It's a router and only a router, so no wifi and no switch. It has 3 ports, which should be plenty for your setup (naturally you will want a switch or two).

Is it overkill for your setup? Maybe, but for $100 it's (again IMHO) the best router that that kind of money can buy. People will tell you that it is not very user friendly, and it might have been in the past, or to users that are not a bit technical, but the new GUI is all you will need to use to create a basic home network setup.

Mikrotik is another manufacturer of prosumer / cheap but good enterprise level gear, but just spec wise, the ERL is superior.

 

I'll link you a few unmanaged 24 port switches. Let me know if you want managed switches instead.

The main difference between managed and unmanaged is that the former gives you more control over your network, and if you want to do some things, like fancy segmentation of the network (VLANs), or QoS within the LAN (unnecessary in the home really), then you will need a managed switch.

The Trend-Net TEG-S24Dg is the second cheapest 24 port switch (gig of course) that I would buy.

I have had an 8 port Trend-Net switch for about 5 years with 0 troubles. The one linked above is metal casing, which helps with cooling and rigidity, and is a small form factor, so you can place it on a desk if you need to, and it's not a huge rack-mounted 19" beast (it's 11 inches long).

The TP-Link TL-SG1024 is a full size, rack mountable switch. No clue how it performs, but a bunch of reviews say it is good.

As you can see the difference in price is very small ($100 vs $108). Pick the one you like best or another all together. :)

One thing I would say is that I would not go with a 10/100 switch, as switches limit your internal speed, which can far exceed your internet speeds. For example file transfers between the NAS and your devices. Gig is the way to go, I wish 10 Gb would be cheaper, as I would go for it myself.

 

> Cables & walls

If you are running cables, do it once, and do it well: run Cat 6a cables.

Cat 6a cables are shielded, which protects from EMI (interference), and can run 10Gb up to 100m. Be sure to get Cat 6 A, and not just Cat 6, as Cat 6 (without the A) is only rated for 10 Gb at 40 meters or less.

The question you might be asking: why not just go with Cat 5e, which does 1Gb speeds to 100 meters just fine and is cheaper?

Well, most Cat 5e that is sold around, is not shielded, and you want shielded to run in the walls due to electrical cables and grounding systems. Also, you are tearing holes in home walls. Even if you are there for only a few years, why save a few dollars when you can do the job right?

 

In addition, you will want a bunch of faceplates, amazon or monoprice will have loads for cheap, a bunch of RJ-45 ends (don't skimp to much on these, some are really shitty), and potentially a patch panel.

A patch panel is a thing where you terminate your cable runs into it, and it allows you to plug an ethernet cable into it.

Like this

Basically this makes it so that you don't have to move around the cables which could damage them over time, and gives you a nice organized way to label each run. That being said, it's not mandatory, it's just something nice.

 

I know this is a wall of text, but I think I should have covered all your points.

You probably have more questions, ask away :)

You should have a patch panel. Here's one for a rack: https://amzn.com/B0000AZK72

Damn I didn't see the second and third pictures duh! So if you use that panel I showed you from amazon (or one like it, there's a lot of wires there) this may be a better choice.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Compatible-TC-P24C6/dp/B0000AZK72/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=patch+panel+wall+mount&qid=1550278079&s=gateway&sr=8-7

This panel will work with cat5 or cat6, I can't tell what type of wiring you have there but you'll need that

You'll also need some way to mount it on the wall, I used one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Hinged-Bracket-N060-004/dp/B000E887XU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=patch+panel+wall+mount&qid=1550278079&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Now with the patch panel, you don't need to put ends on the wire. You use a punch down tool and they go into little clip type things. It makes more sense if you look at the pictures. Here is a punch down tool:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=punch+down+tool&qid=1550278185&s=gateway&sr=8-5

you're gonna need some patch cables to run from the patch panel to a switch. You're also gonna need a switch down there to connect all the ethernet cables together.

To mount the switch, you're gonna need a rack mount (to look the nicest, and a 19" rack switch).

A nice mount I used is this: https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Vertical-Mountable-Server-Hardware/dp/B01M151AOJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=vertical+rack+mount&qid=1550278400&s=gateway&sr=8-4

and then a switch, something like this (which I picked more or less at random) https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-LGS124-Rackmount-Unmanaged-Enclosure/dp/B00H1OQBLA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rack+mount+switch&qid=1550278467&s=gateway&sr=8-3 will do the job quite well. It's a gigabit unamanaged switch. You can spend a lot more if you want to, but this will probably do the job.

So from there, you need a cable from switch to that box in the first picture with the ethernet ports on the back.

That will give you wired internet in the whole house. Adding access points from there is trivial.

I know it's a lot of information, feel free to ask anything.

Edit: That verizon box in picture 3 looks like it might be more than just a modem, it might be a modem/router. If that's the case you can plug that into the switch. But if it's just a modem, that won't work even tho the ethernet port will physically connect. The best way to tell is that if it only has one ethernet port, then it's just a modem, if it has more than 1 then it's a modem/router.

I had Cat6 run in my house a few years ago and had the electrician run one end into a closet and leave them unterminated. I patched them to this patch panel myself (even though I have nearly no electrical or wiring experience) using this punch down tool. It's a bit time consuming, but not hard at all. You can wall mount or rack mount (this is what I did) the patch panel then run short cat6 patch cables from the patch panel to your switch. If you do it yourself, be sure the electrician leaves a few extra feet on the unterminated end in the closet, just to give you some flexibility, and that he or she lets you know which standard was used on the terminated ends (since there's an A and a B standard and you'll have to know which to use on the patch panel).

I'd take ALL the cat5e cables and re-wire them into a cat5e patch panel, then just make a couple of patch cables to come from the phone line and you can plug it into whatever cat5e socket you like.

Source: System Administrator with a lot of Data Center Experience

1. You will need cooling. Next to your furnace, it will get hot in there even if it wasn't for the equipment - which will generate heat and could be quite a bit depending on what is in there.
   
2. At the very least you will want a catch pan under any water lines. Better yet would be to enclose it - especially around any joints or links/junctions. Also be sure you have a drain line from that pan or enclosure.
   
3. Have a dedicated circuit to this room. At start up electronic equipment has a large draw. A 20amp circuit may suffice depending on the number or needs of the equipment, but I've seen 20A circuits trip on a mass-start.
   
4. Make sure the floor is reinforced to support a lot of stationary weight. Also make sure there is a non-conductive floor. Concrete would be best, but a rubberized mat would suffice.
   
5. Your current closet would not be sufficient to enclose a rack and allow access behind the equipment as well. The best solution would be to rip it down and build a room suitable to your needs, but if you can't do that make sure you have sufficient cable lengths of Cat5e/6 and power to keep everything connected when you roll the rack out. Ideally there would be 2 Ethernet runs to the rack (zip tied or Velcroed together) that would each run to a separate switch and each device would have 2 connections - one to each switch. This is an ideal connection of course, but at least make sure you have a good 5 to 6 feet (~2m) of slack on Ethernet to a switch in the rack and the same cable length for power to be able to pull the rack out without disconnecting or shutting everything off.
   
6. That paneling is HIDEOUS. If you are thinking about ripping it down it looks like it is on an interior wall. I ran Cat6 to every room in the house within a week of moving in (first house for me too). If that is an interior wall you should be able to run everything up to the attic to go around to your rooms.If you do the same, run the ends to the same room as your "server closet" and terminate in a patch panel. That is the one I bought and it is sufficient for a 2 bedroom house, each room having 2 drops of 2 ports each with 3 drops in the living room.
   
7. That furnace is really bugging me. Is there any way to find somewhere else to put your lab rack?

Hah, that's cool. I'd be tempted to build a plex box but because I support and install a lot of synology it makes more sense to put one of those in at home.

Talk to your local friends and see if you can find a vaguely trustworthy computer shop. You should be able to rough-in all of the lines and have them terminate and configure if you don't feel up to it.

Just run Cat6, it's great for gigabit, fine for 10gig-e up to ~50m and anyway the vast majority of stuff > 1gbit is on fiber right now. If you think you'll want to run more later just include a string to fish with when you pull your current cable.

Running network is actually pretty easy, you usually punch down on either side of a long run and use patch cables for everything else. Punch blocks have the layout printed right on them so you don't even need to look up a spec.

Parts you need

• 24-port patch panel. May need a second smaller one if you're also doing POTS lines.
  
• 8U wall-mount rack adjust for needed spaces and size. Once that go on shelves work fine too. I like the ones that hinge open for working on but they're pricey.
  
• 24-port gigabit switch rackmount handy dandy. brand doesn't matter a lot since it's unmanaged, but rackmount is lovely.
  
• Low voltage gang boxes much easier to deal with than a full electric box.
  
• Wall plates - lots of options here. dual RJ-45 allows you to use both runs as network or phone. Combo network/coax is great for bedrooms and you can leave one network drop as a "spare". Keystone is the way to go for more complex stuff.
  
• 1ft Cat-6 x whatever. Pick your favorite colors, adjust length per your design specs. Way easier than making your own!
  
• UPS for devices that need it
  
• Surge protector for stuff that isn't on the UPS
  
• Network router w/ wifi + possibly additional access points
  
• Longer ethernet patches to run from the wall to devices
  
  I like Monoprice for a lot of stuff but not everything.
  
  

  Tools you need
  

  
  

• Snips / knife to cut bulk Ethernet and strip insulator
  
• A punch-down tool for the patch panels
  
• Zip-ties + velcro strips for various attaching of things to other things
  
• Phillips #1 & #2, Standard #1 for wall plates and rack mount
  
• Fishing rod, tape, string, and other tools to get wire in wall
  
• Drill, drywall saw, that sort of thing
  
• Beer

Centralized media closet (seems to be what you are doing) is a great option, but instead of using the wiring panel, I would do a small wall-mounted rack and patch panels. The RG6 can be terminated and directly plugged into a distribution block in the closet (shelves are great for the rack). Also, run multiple cat6 drops to every location. As more and more devices require network connections, having these planned and terminated in a central location makes it MUCH easier to implement on your network, vs adding switches to every room where you need more network ports. I personally have 5 cat5e jacks and 1 RG6Q for every one of my drops. Cable is cheap, and the labor is already there.

This is the patch panel I have in my rack.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Rackmount-TC-P24C6/dp/B0000AZK72

I believe you're thinking of a Modular Patch Panel that takes keystone jacks like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Keystone-Jack-Panel-ports/dp/B005E2YCNA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491591049&sr=1-1&keywords=modular+patch+panel

I must admit that I am unfamiliar with the term "panduit". As for wiring the console ports to the patch panel and the patch cords, they are all straight through schedule B.

So, leave the Kitchen (for landline phone) connected. Buy something like this patch panel. Wire that up, connect those to a switch, and then switch to router/modem.

But otherwise, the already laid wiring is fine right?

Wired: Screenshot 1

Wireless: Screenshot 2

pFsense Router: Firewall Router

Patch Panel: [TRENDnet 24 Port] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK72/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Network Switch NETGEAR GS324 24-Port

Wireless Router: Netgear Orbi

Some patch panels mount to the wall:
https://www.amazon.com/INTELLINET-12-Port-Wall-mount-Compatible-162470/dp/B0009JGJF2
Some are made to mount in a network rack, but there are ways to mount these to a wall as well.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Rackmount-Compatible/dp/B0000AZK72

Kinda. Lol. so when you say "no ends' i think you mean "bare wire" with no plug or anything on the end... would that be correct?

and is there a patch panel like this somewhere in the mix? - https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Compatible-TC-P24C6/dp/B0000AZK72 ?

Wiring 101. Most of this other have covered.

1. Get a plan. Where is your head in, where do you want the jacks. Plan extra now. Need 1 either net, pull 2 wires, need 2, pull four, need four, pull six. 1 big switch is better than a bunch of little switches.
   
   
2. Pull at least cat-6. Cat 6a, or cat 7 is overkill.
   
   
3. The most expensive wire you will ever pull is the one that is 1 inch too short.
   
   
4. Inside walls are your friend, outside walls hate you. Stay away from stairs( lots of wood) Bath rooms, and kitchens will have extra pipes, be careful. Don't be afraid of cutting and patching dry wall, or oyu can be like me, and pay some one else to patch the drywall.
   
   
5. Running wires in the attic, great, use zip ties with a hole, and mount them at the peak. All the AC wire is on top of the rafters so you get separation; and the next guy up their will not stand on your cables.
   
   
6. Zip ties are great. Think gentle hug, not strangulation.
   
   
7. From the attic, you can see the top plate or drywall nailer. You will be going through 3 to 4.5" of wood, make sure your drill bit is that long.
   
   
8. For the device location cut in a Orange retro ring. See the four small holes on the corners. Hold the ring face to the wall, level it, make it even with the outlet, mark the four holes. Draw a line between the four little marks and cut. You did check for a stud before hand RIGHT. Single gang can fit 6 network connections, a double gang can fit 12.
   
   9)Use Keystone jacks, and a insert, and face plates in the field. 110 punch down in the closet. I would not recommend putting male ends on( BTW they are called 8P8C), use the jacks, face plates, and 110 punch down.
   
   
9. After the hole for the jack is cut, have some one lightly tap on the ceiling. You will be close, and you have plus or minus 14.5" to be in the same stud bay. Get a small thing of Pull string, Glow rods, and some electrical tape( go cheap, as cheap as you can find.
   
   
10. Some options for getting down the wall. No insulation, you can try to drop the wire straight down, tape the end of the wire onto a glow rod, put that end into the hole and push it down. Tie some small weights to the pull string and drop it down the hole. At the bottom, use a metal coat hanger, grid ceiling wire, or thicker steel wire to form hooks. Put a small hook on one end, and a 15 to 20 degree bend about 3 to 4 inch from the end. Don't be afraid to twist the hook arround to keep tension on the wire as you guiding it out.
    
    
11. Get a good punch down tool. Pick a or b, and stick with it.
    
    
12. Buy patch cables unless you need over 20 feet.
    
    
13. I would test with a laptop with a network port, go around and plug into each jack, just make sure you turn off the wifi first.
    
    
    
    
    
    

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Rackmount-TC-P24C6/dp/B0000AZK72?ie=UTF8&keywords=cat%206%20patch%20panel&qid=1463486358&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

Cable matters also makes a keystone jack version if you prefer doing it that way.

I assume if you have a shielded patch you will also run shielded cable, which you really don't need to do. For 2k feet you could probably save yourself $200+ by just switching to CMR rated UTP. Shielding has it's place, but providentially it doesn't make sense 99% of the time.

This would be the one, Trendnet 24 Port CAT6