Reddit reviews Tripp Lite 6U Wall Mount Rack Enclosure Server Cabinet, 16.5" Deep, Switch-Depth (SRW6U),Black

Details on that wall-mounted rack please?

edit: is it this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1NFY4

OP does use some non-standard terminology, doesn't he? (Non-standard for 'Muricans anyway)

"Switch cab" has got to be a wall-mounted switch rack with a door on it, kind of like this: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRW6U-Enclosure-Cabinet/dp/B003K1NFY4

"Standard Bell setup" I think is referring to the monitor on top of a desktop form factor PC. Think about the shape, especially with older 4:3 monitors. Kind of looks like a bell, right?

Right - I'm not saying "THIS THING IS TOTALLY USELESS, FUCK UBIQUTI!"...more that:

1. This wouldn't fit my needs and
   
2. Goddamn, I wish they'd make this with a door (especially at a price point of almost $250!)
   
   this is the kind of thing I'm after...which I'll grant you is an "enclosure"

You're on the right track with pulling everything into a patch panel. If it were me, I would look at hiring a low voltage firm to actually do the work, including the labeling and testing of all the drops. If there is a good service loop for those existing cable runs you can probably re-use them.

I would look at getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Enclosure-Switch-Depth-SRW6U/dp/B003K1NFY4 and have your network equipment and patch panel all in the enclosure.

If you end up tracing/labeling yourself, you can accomplish this with a toner. Something like this would work to assist: https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510866752&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=fluke+network+toner&psc=1

Simply connect the probe at the drop and tone out the cable at the closet, then label the drop and cable (ideally the cable will be run into a patch panel though) - Much easier as a 2 man job to avoid having to run back and forth a bunch. Either way, I still recommend hiring a cabling company, they'll do it quicker and better than you probably can, and you may avoid connectivity issues down the road due to bad punchdowns.

for a small wall mount and only needing pretty shallow depth, I use these, in various U sizes:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Enclosure-Switch-Depth-SRW6U/dp/B003K1NFY4/

Yeah, that's my main point, everything is overkill. I found this - http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRW6U-Enclosure-Cabinet/dp/B003K1NFY4

It is pretty consistent with what you posted, but again, overkill. Looking for something more simple, if its available.

Thanks for the help.

Not OP but I think the cabinet is a Tripp Lite SRW6U.

Thanks! This kind of shelf?
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Enclosure-Switch-Depth-SRW6U/dp/B003K1NFY4/

What kind of stuff?

We often use the tripp lite wall mount racks for a lot of places: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Enclosure-Switch-Depth-SRW6U/dp/B003K1NFY4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523904491&sr=8-1&keywords=tripp+lite+rack

1. No you don't "hook it up to an actual server using a SCSI cable". The photo you linked IS a server, and the drives are plugged into a backplane that goes into the motherboard, usually via SATA, and in an enterprise environment, usually to an extremely expensive RAID card (they can be more than your entire budget).
   
   
2. That was probably just a label placed on by the tech who built the server. The size drives you can use is defined by your storage controller. RAID card/motherboard/etc.
   
   
3. You can use just about any hard drives, but it's recommended that you use drives that are meant for NAS or at least mention something about RAID. I would avoid regular desktop hard drives. Manufacturer compatibility lists generally just list hard drives which were specifically tested and verified to be 100% compatible. However, those drives were selected from a pool of drives which were designed for server use (aka not desktop drives).
   
   If you want to set up a nice racked solution, check this out: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRW6U-Enclosure-Cabinet/dp/B003K1NFY4
   
   If you go that path, you can also get a rackmounted UPS battery backup, a rackmounted switch, etc. Makes for a very nice, clean setup.
   
   Be careful storing servers in your garage... humidity/heat can be a major issue.
   
   ---
   
   Here is a simple budget build I threw together using non-server parts. Server parts (Xeon, ECC RAM, etc) will increase the price significantly. This configuration maxxes you out at 10 drives+1 m.2 SSD for the OS.. but you could add more by purchasing some PCI-e SATA cards. However I am unsure if RAID would work doing this. You would need to find a different case that holds more drives though.
   
   

• Basic build (CPU, Mobo, RAM, m.2 SSD) http://pcpartpicker.com/p/LdTGBm
  
• ASRock Z97 EXTREME6 - 10x SATA 6.0 ports + 1x m.2 for storage (there are 2 m.2 ports, but the 2nd one disables some sata ports)
  
• Samsung SM951 128GB M.2 SSD (2GB/s read, 600MB/s write)
  
• Quad core i5-4690 (non-K, includes heatsink)
  
• 32GB DDR3 1866
  
  
• Base price: $570
  
  Here are two options for cases, one is a tower, one is a rackmount server.
  
  
• Case ($99- 10-bay, tower no hot swap): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146216
  
• PSU ($54): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151074
  
• This configuraiton: ~$725 USD
  
  
• 2U Chassis ($295- 12-bay, rack hot swap): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3913UN3437
  
• 2U PSU ($80): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151130
  
• This configuration: ~$950 USD
  
  
  You will have to convert everything to EU prices/parts. I did not want to spend more time on this

Yep. It's a lot of work setting everything up but the end result is really worth it. And you'll learn a lot along the way. Someday I plan on building a full-on rackmounted home server setup with one of these guys in a closet and finally get everything consolidated to one spot. I run a lot of different types of servers. Someday. :)

How deep are we talking? I'm putting together seven in-room systems and this is the model I've settled on. Lots of options, excellent reviews, pretty cheap.

I should probably clarify, no room for a 2 post rack/large enclosure. So a shelf by itself probably wouldn't work.

I was thinking something like this that will sit on the ground, table or wall mount, but designed for non-rackable hardware (if it existed): https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Enclosure-Switch-Depth-SRW6U/dp/B003K1NFY4/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503435413&sr=1-4&keywords=6u+cabinet

Problem is all the hardware we will be using isn't rack mountable. We've used something similar in the past with shelves, but things end up falling all over and becoming a mess. Plus they are excessively large for the size equipment we will be using.

I'd suggest a bigger rack than that, then you can put a power extension, nas and everything in there and have a bit of room to spare. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRW6U-Enclosure-Cabinet/dp/B003K1NFY4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409175257&sr=8-1&keywords=6u+rack In setups like this it's only likely to get bigger!

A vent might be useful, it's hard to know how much heat things like this generate until you try! Just be careful venting into roof space, certainly the way UK houses are constructed ,venting (of any type) into the loft can cause condensation issues as they're cold and pumping hot air in isn't good.

One more thing if performance and reliability is a concern, and you have the funds - I'd suggest stepping up your switch choice a little maybe to an HP1410-24g - I've had mixed experiences with TPLink equipment at work and brands like HP tend to be much more reliable. Sure the TPLink will probably work fine for 99.99% of the time but I just prefer the peace of mind of slightly better equipment especially if you're planning to heavily load it.

Oh and definitely get a patch panel, it makes things much tidier and easier to deal with once it's in.

Plug them all into a Pass through patch panel. Label it one for one with the labels on the cables. Should be pretty enough and functional. Then use patch cables and a nice 2u cable manager. Be nice of you to put some j-hooks on those shit studs about 2ft up and separated the cables from the power that its probably running on top of.

Heres a parts list.

Patch Panel

2u Cable Manager

J-Hooks

Patch Cables

Wall Rack Enclosure

Well right now my NAS is 2 feet from my security camera
Takes 30 seconds to pull out a couple of harddrives and bye-bye recording data.

With a cabinet they'd need to drag a much bigger fixture, one that's possible corded to a table, down 3 stories.

I mean it's still possible to remove the disks, but it ups the level of effort A LOT and thief are usually lazy and less likely to have the tools to get into something like this: www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Enclosure-Switch-Depth-SRW6U/dp/B003K1NFY4

I just have no idea what to buy because I'm ill-researched.

You are aware Sonos runs on it's own mesh network right?
You just need either the main unit wired, or they make a bridge unit specifically for the purpose. Everything else just finds the nearest Sonos devices and hooks to them automatically.

Anyway, on the main event:

Grab 2 unifi AC Pro APs and put them in the hallway outside the Master Bedroom and Garage.

Then you want a networking rack/cabinet where ever the phone/cable comes in. Around me that always right next to the power panel in the basement, but it varies from region to region.

typically I have 2ft wide, half inch plywood mounted on two 2x4s done by the contractor (fuck nailing shit to concrete later)

Here you can either mount a prebuild cabinet, or just a naked rack.

In this rack/cabinet you put the Modem, router, patch panel, and switch (if you have that many drops)

When running drops, I would put one on every wall of every room, since cable is cheap and labor is almost nothing if the walls aren't up. Make sure you put a drop behind where the entertainment center will go.

You don't even need to wire them into anything right away.

Run extra pull strings while you are running cabling as well, and if you put conduit/tubing in, it will be super easy to upgrade things later.

This looks like a ranch, so I don't have to tell you to run a vertical shaft all the way through the home.

I recommend to people doing Kitchen rehabs to run a line and power outlet above the cabinets. Typically the Kitchen is central in the house so makes a great AP location.