You need a RCA to 3.5mm male https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LM2Y2U4/

This is the best option. I would plug audio into a stereo too. The sound plugged into the projector would suck.

The JBL LSR305 expects line level inputs via balanced XLR or 1/4" TRS connector.

The SVS SB12-NSD expects line level inputs via stereo RCA connectors, and can pass through line-level and high-pass outputs via stereo RCA connectors.

The AT-LP60 has phono and line outs through stereo RCA connectors.

Your laptop probably has a 1/8" stereo TRS connector.

Working backwards from your JBL, you can use a stereo 1/4" TS to RCA cable to connect the speakers to the line or low-pass RCA outputs on the SVS. Check your JBL manual to ensure that a 1/4" TS cable will not cause issues in its TRS jack. An alternative is to use an RCA to TRS cable.

In order to switch your signal source between your computer and your turntable, you'll need an RCA source selector. You can also use stereo receiver or pre-amplifier with source selection.

In order to get your computer's audio output from its line out to the splitter or receiver, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA splitter cable. That cable will also work for a Coaxial SPDIF digital signal if you go with a receiver, and both the receiver and computer support Coaxial SPDIF. Your computer and the receiver may also support a SPDIF over TOSLINK, for which you'll need a TOSLINK cable. Note that TOSLINK cables and jacks come in two physically incompatible connectors.

The turntable can plug directly into the source selector.

The above Amazon links are to examples of cables and devices you could use with the relevant connectors. You could spend a lot more or less on each cable or device with different brands, colors, etc.

I see in the comments below that you've already returned it, if you are willing to use a mixer the setup I would recommend to start would be:


Behringer Xm8500


Windscreen


XLR Cable


Behringer Xenyx 502


RCA to 3.5mm


All this is less than $80.

A stand like this would work well, and it is still below $100.

Here is a sound sample I found on YouTube.


Once you have more money to play around with for dynamic microphones look into: Shure SM58, Shure Beta 58, and the EV ND767A. These will run you roughly $100-$150.


Once you have a use case for condenser microphones look into: AT2020, Samson C02 Pair, and MXL 770. All of these will run you roughly $100, however if you went with the Samson C02s you would need more inputs and therefore a different mixer.

Well I record my PO-20 using this interface and this wire. It's all worked perfectly well for me.

You might want a headphone to RCA adapter cable.

EDIT: these would probably be the easiest hookup. Otherwise you'll likely need a more expensive optical to RCA converter box.

Ugreen Gold Plated 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Stereo Y Splitter Cable (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s.hoybTRY8KHP

EDIT 2: like this one. Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MaioybPMHMGQ0

EDIT 3: at second thought, the box will probably be a better choice.

Amazon dropped the ball on the Dot.

1. You can hook it up to your Yamaha, but the 3.5mm jack outputs analog only - meaning it uses whatever cheap DAC (digital-analog converter) the $50 Dot has rather than the much better one in your dedicated AV receiver. You'll need a 3.5mm to RCA stereo cable to do this (3.5mm jack plugs into Echo, the L and R RCA jacks into receiver's Audio In). Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Plated-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/
   
   
2. Or Bluetooth to send the digital signal to your YBA-11 bluetooth receiver (hooked up to receiver via digital coaxial IN), but Bluetooth is lossy compression and further degrades the quality of whatever you're playing (which is already likely lossy since you'll be streaming). Also a bummer it doesn't at least support Bluetooth AptX. Your Yahama YBA-11 bluetooth does support AptX, but Echo does not.
   
   Just get a cheaper Chromecast Audio - it supports both analog(using 3.5mm or RCA and it's internal DAC like the Dot)... plus a digital out using S/PDIF - you'd connect it to the Optical Digital In connector on your AV receiver with a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-TOSLINK-Optical-Digital-Audio/dp/B00GZQWLF0/
   

90% sure that it is a no on that idea, but aside from the cost I don't see any harm in trying.

Although the easier way would be to use something like the following product to input your external audio into the K5:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1536247300&sr=8-8&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

No worries man! JBL>TRS to RCA>Schiit Sys>RCA to 3.5mm>Laptop. Plug the XLR connection into each speaker and then plug the other end of the XLR cable which is an RCA connection into the Sys output. Then plug the rca to the sys's input. Then plug the other end of the RCA input cables which is an AUX aka 3.5mm plug into your laptop. Another note is to make sure you have a long enough power cable for the JBLs as the one it comes with it quite short. Monoprice makes good cheap power cables such as this. Let me know if you have any other questions; I'd be happy to help!

> I was browsing newegg and saw this amp has a nice deal going on right now: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882184507&cm_re=amp-_-82-184-507-_-Product

Pyle is a junk brand, stay far away from them. The go-to budget recommendation for amps is the SMSL SA50. You'll need speaker wire to go from the SMSL to the speakers, and a 3.5 mm to RCA cable to connect the SMSL to your computer.

Get a good cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (or smth more expensive) connect them to an amp and either use a splitter cable to plug it directly into mobo's integrated sound or use a usb dac (with rca cables). You will also have to spend some money on speaker wire to connect speakers to amp.

EDIT: another option is to skip amp part and get a pair of powered studio monitors.

I've used AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audeze LCD-2 Classic, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms), HiFiMan HE400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE500, HyperX Cloud, Koss Porta Pro, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips Fidelio X2, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD598, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven for gaming, and my recommendations for online/competitive shooters are AD700x and DT990, or HD668B if you're on a budget.

If you need sound isolation, then I recommend HD669 first and K52 second, but only if you need sound isolation. I don't recommend HyperX Cloud (II) because it has been surpassed by HD669, K52 and especially HD668B in sound quality.

Sound:

AD700x has a sound signature/profile with subdued sub-bass and emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little harsh treble. It has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.

DT990 has a sound signature with subdued sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass and very emphasized treble. The bass is clean. The treble is slightly splashy or overly sparkly and somewhat sharp. It has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.

HD668B has a sound signature with subdued sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass and emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little sharp treble. It has a large soundstage and very good imaging, separation clarity and detail retrieval.

Soundstage and imaging constitute positional audio. Soundstage is produced by the headphone and is how you perceive space and environment of sound, like virtual surround sound. Imaging is how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced. Separation is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important in competitive shooters.

Sub-bass is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from. For competitive shooters, you don't want this as it masks or overshadows sound cues. Mid-bass is where impact comes from. Generally, you also want as little mid-bass as possible, but this isn't a problem with DT990 or HD668B. How bright you perceive the treble, depends largely on how treble sensitive you are and what your point of reference is. In games, treble isn't as bright as it is in music.

 

Amplifiers:

These headphones should output loud volume levels for most people. If they don't for you, then the easiest solution is to use a USB sound card like Creative Sound BlasterX G1 or G5. G1 is the cheapest sound card I know of that officially supports PS4 and offers ample amplification for most consumer-grade headphones with the exception of the 600-ohm and maybe the 250-ohm version of DT990. For these, use G5.

It's possible to use an Astro MixAmp Pro TR or a Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC with power-hungry headphones if you want those sound cards because of their game and audio chat balancing or other features, but it would require pairing them with a more powerful amp.

You can use a headphone amplifier and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter), but it's less convenient.

Some well-regarded options:

• Audio-gd NFB-11.28 (both)
  
• Audio-gd R2R-11 (both)
  
• Audioengine D1 (both)
  
• Creative Sound Blaster X7 (both)
  
• FiiO D3 (DAC)
  
• FX Audio DAC-X6 (both)
  
• Mayflower ARC (both)
  
• Micca OriGen G2 (both)
  
• Schiit Magni 3 (amp)
  
• Schiit Modi 2 Uber (DAC)
  
• SMSL SD793-II (both)
  
• Topping A30 (amp)
  
• Topping D30 (DAC)
  
   
  
  Microphones:
  
  You can attach an Antlion ModMic or a Massdrop Minimic to the headphone. They don't have an in-line volume control, but you can use gadgets like these:
  
  adjustR, BENGOO, Fosmon, Insignia, Lucid Sound AdjustR
  
   
  
  Setup:
  
  The ModMic attaches magnetically to a base that you stick to either earcup. The Minimic uses the same clasp system except with velcro instead. They're easy to attach and detach, especially the Minimic since it's modular. They have their own cable and operate separately from the headphone, so they're compatible with all headphones.
  
  

  
  

  
  To connect the headphone and mic to the controller or other devices with a single jack, you need to use a TRRS Y-splitter. The Y-splitter must have three black rings on the connector.
  
  

  
  

  
  You can connect the headphone and mic to the USB port on PS4 by using an audio USB adapter.
  
  

  
  

  
  Sound BlasterX G1 anf G5 are plug-and-play. To use an amp and a DAC, you have to connect the mic to the controller with a TRRS Y-splitter or to the USB port on PS4 with an audio USB adapter, unless you use an amp that has a TRRS jack or a separate jack for the mic, like Mayflower ARC. Most sound cards have either of these. A sound card has an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so only use optical unless the DAC or sound card officially supports PS4. The headphone connects to the amp like usual. Amps and DACs can be bought separate or as combined units. You need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. If you get a separate amp and DAC, then you need RCA cables to connect them to each other.
  
  

  
  

  
  To pair an amp with the MixAmp or Elite Pro TAC, it's probably easier to show you this image. This is a 3.5mm-to-RCA cable. The featured amp is Schiit Magni, which has been replaced by Magni 3. You can only use a separate amp, not a DAC and amp combo unit.
  
   
  
  I'm almost out of space, so just ask me if you have questions.
  
  

You'll record through the line in on the back from your computer with one of these cables. The mini plug goes into the computer and the left/right RCA jacks go into your deck. i.e. you don't use the mic input for this.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/


You want a deck that plugs into the wall. It should have a headphone jack, that's a must-have for making compilations.


You want a deck made near the end of the deck era, you want soft touch controls and terms like logic, servos, capstan, head alloy mentioned on the front of the deck. Do not go for vintage looks, as the older decks have way more issues that can pop up. Hopefully you'll find a nice JVC, Sony, Onkyo that should set you back less than your price targets you mentioned.

I think your TV does not have audio out via AV Cable. I was looking at specs and it looks like the only audio out is headphone and optical. You could get a headphone to AV adapter to run headphone out from your TV into your Amp. Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=psdc_1098227031_t1_B0100WN676

What option or plug exactly, pics?

The red and white rca inputs are typically for stereo audio only. You can use an adapter like this plugged in like headphones https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LM2Y2U4/

I'm guessing I would need to buy the following with these, or would the cables be supplied:

• 3.5mm to RCA Cable - £5.99
  
• Speaker Cable - £5.39
  
• Banana Plugs - £5.49
  
  I also notice that some of the reviews for the Wharefedale's say that they lack bass. Are there any better speakers I could get for a little more (I was considering saving for the 9.1's, but they're too big as I can only fit a depth of about 20CM)?

Not really without changing your setup. This is the great downside to USB mics and headphones, you have to connect them to a computer making them very limited. So as it stands you could maybe work with some variation of this -

USB mic into computer 1 ---> output of computer 1 to interface.

Computer 2 ----------------> output to interface

Interface -------------------> outputs to headphones and/or speakers.

So you would need an audio interface, cables(probably RCA jacks), and non-USB heaphones

Replace any gear as needed, these are not really professional standard but should work for what you're doing, also I didn't know your budget. Good luck!

update: since the speaker accept 3.5 input jack and every speaker is powered, could a solution like this:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_23?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526897571&sr=1-23&keywords=stereo+splitter+jack

be able to make work a couple of spearkes together separating left and right signals? that + an airport express can bring homekit capabilities and stereo separation. or with a preamp that setup can be used with a turntable. is there someone with two eneby units who can try?

My vega GPU has coil whine when at 99% load, doesn't bother me when inside the case but my JBL 305 like to pick this and amplify it a lot (more volume = more noise)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAvy1p6lnH8&feature=youtu.be

How to fix this without losing any quality? I've connected my JBL 305 through those cables (i don't remember the exact brand of the cables but they are identical)

https://www.amazon.it/Adam-Hall-Cables-connettori-maschio/dp/B006H0E33C/ref=sr_1_13?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=1%2F4+xlr+to&qid=1572051730&sr=8-13

To this volume knob

https://www.amazon.it/Fostex-PC-1eB-Controllo-Stereo-Diffusori/dp/B0058B1T5G

And then with these cables

https://www.amazon.it/UGREEN-10584-Audio-Adattatore-3-5mm/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=RCA+to+jack&qid=1572051875&sr=8-4

to Line out on this DAC Douk1796

https://www.amazon.it/audio-dsd1796-XMOS-U8-OTG-Headphone-Scheda/dp/B01ELFRRM8

I've tried connecting JBL305s to a different/same outlet as the PC/monitor with no results, also i've found out that the TRS 1/4 cable is actually unbalanced (1 circle only) is that a problem?

Yep. Digital signal to other digital signal is no problem.

Gefen DVI to HDMI Cable 6 Feet, Male-Male 6 Feet, CAB-DVI2HDMI-06MM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CZHN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IHxvyb5CSVKZ1

Then you can just get one of these for audio

Ugreen Gold Plated 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Stereo Y Splitter Cable (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RIxvyb94BT3D5

As far as replacing the 'cabinet' (assume you mean computer case), that may be a little harder. You need to find out what size motherboard you have in there (ATX / mATX / ITX) and if the power supply is a standard size. I know sometimes prebuilt suppliers like dell use strange form factors designed only for their own hardware / cases.

Silver stone makes really nice htpc cases. But again, you're probably going to want a mATX / ITX motherboard to fit in some of the smaller form factor cases. Might be a problem if yours is ATX

do i just need this ? : https://www.amazon.de/UGREEN-Splitter-Audiokabel-Klinkenkabel-Metallstecker/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QG6775VJBSRPBD5GHGZZ

The lineout on the Fulla is 3.5mm, so you would need a 3.5mm to RCA cable such as the one linked below as an example
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4

If you bought a modi you would still need an RCA to RCA cable as Schiit does not include them (they do sell a short pair for $20 tho). Amps DO come with a power cable though so no need to worry about that.

IMO I like Vali2 more. It also gives you the ability to tweak and experiment with different tubes if you want down the line.

Vali 2 has all the features of Magni 2 Uber (pre-outs, nicer metal finish) for $20 more. However I realize it's $70 more than regular Magni, and if that's more than willing to spend Magni would be fine.

Again I just want to emphasize I haven't heard 400i on Fulla 2, so I cannot speculate on exactly how much of an improvement there will be.

What is the "Y"-Cable doing?

It is simply connected to the 3.5mm Line Out plug on the back of the computer and feeding the Studio Monitors? Are you sure you are using a shielded or acceptable quality cable?

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/

Or, is the "Y"-Cable SPLITTING the signal between the Headphones and the Studio Monitors?

You should have Line Out for the Studio Monitor on the back of the Computer, and Headphone out for the Headphones on the Front of the Computer.

Though not cheap, if you want USB (24-bit/192kHz) out (and In) of the computer with TWO Independent Headphone Amps, master volume control, and the ability to control TWO monitors, then take a look a the Mackie Big knob Studio --

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/BigKnobStu--mackie-big-knob-studio-3x2-studio-monitor-controller

At $200 it is not cheap, but you are getting a USB DAC which allows you to by pass the noise environment of the computer, you get TWO independent Headphone amps, you get a Master Volume control, and you can switch between two monitors.

Here is a video review -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNrmQ2ZRCJk

Admittedly that doesn't directly address your question.

So, the Studio Monitors hiss very loudly when you are using the Headphones? It that the short version?

I'm not sure I can see a connection between the two unless you have some unusual wiring. The Headphone out of the front of the computer should be unrelated to the Line Out on the back of the computer. I'm not sure how they can interfere with each other?

Maybe someone else understands the problem better than I do will respond.

ALSO -

You have Beyer DT-900 or DT-990. I can't find any references to the DT-900, but the DT-990 are fairly common and at nearly $200 should be fantastic headphones.

Also, do the headphones have a Microphone on them or do you have a Microphone that you use for Gaming. If the Microphone and the Speakers are on at the same time, that sets up the possibility of a feedback loop.

Ok how do i connect this?

How do we know if its getting power?

Is this the same one? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ugreen-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter-Connector/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457359748&sr=8-1&keywords=Y%2C+RCA

So the Vali still works? Before spending more money to replace everything or buy another DAC, I would try hooking your computer's audio up directly to the Vali. If he computer has just a single 3.5mm output, you will need a y splitter cable ( something like this) ), just connect it to the L/R "in" jacks on the Vali.

https://www.amazon.ca/PreSonus-Eris-E4-5-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00GP56OYA/

plus

https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Connector-Speakers-Smartphone-Devices/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/

and you're good.

-

if your onboard audio is garbage, get a usb sound card.

https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Universal-3-Position-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01N905VOY/

- -

Fluance ai60 is a really good option.

a little more spendy, but bigger woofer than the Eris, more connectivity options.

This is the correct answer.


Since you already have phantom power supply you'd be able to use a Xenyx 502. You could also use this interface with or without the phantom power supply. With either of these I'd recommend using the RCA out to Line in on the PC, with a cable like this.

Also using this cable; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_cYpPyb8PCB481 by plugging the white and red end into projector then the aux/3.55mm/headphone end to the sound bar would work given the pictures.

Assuming your motherboard doesn't have RCA outputs, you would need one of these cables to make it work. And no, that won't be included with the amp. You'll have to get one separately.

Yep thats the phono (Red & White) in and then a headphone aux out of your phone headphone jack,

Phono To 3.5mm

I'm using this type of adapter to run from my stereo's preamp to the Mac. I plug it in and "Line In" does not appear. This worked fine on my original MBP (ca 2009) running up through Mountain Lion. The option disappeared in Mavericks.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=rca+to+3.5+mm&qid=1568133809&s=gateway&sr=8-17

Rca cable, also called a phono or even a coax though technically that's the type.

You want it to go into a standard 3.5mm headphone jack i assume so this sorta thing should do the trick...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Splitter-Controller-Connector-Gold-plated-Green/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?adgrpid=51273257417&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp6CsprnM5AIVmPdRCh1rDwu2EAAYASAAEgL7ZPD_BwE&hvadid=259031212056&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9045605&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6869132175189779045&hvtargid=kwd-296696605645&hydadcr=7588_1724950&keywords=phono+cables&qid=1568331307&s=gateway&sr=8-9

Apologies for big link, on phone at the mo

The wire is to connect the amplifier to the speakers. You need to strip some of the coating off the ends and then it attached to the speaker and amplifier.

There is no need to get banana plugs, in fact, the amplifier does not take banana plugs.

The amplifier comes with its own PSU.

Dayton Audio makes good low budget subwoofers. The SUB1200 model for $149 is popular, but i think the SUB800 for $99 would suffice.


You will also need a 3.5mm to RCA cable to connect your computer.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/

A simple 3.5mm to RCA cable is your solution to this. You don't need the DAC to have RCA out, you just need the right cable interconnect.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/

You might be able to use a 2 port TRS to 3.5mm jack cable, but I haven't tried that so don't quote me on it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Splitter-Surround-Digital-Connector-Green/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511655437&sr=8-3&keywords=2+RCA+to+3.5mm

My powerful yet stealthy touch screen sound system for about $500: An Amazon kindle running the Pandora app sits in a kitchen cabinet. Plugged into the audio out is a headphone to RCA adapter. That's plugged into a passive volume control mounted beneath the cabinet. The output drops down to the basement, where I have a signal detecting power amplifier. That amp drives four Polk in-ceiling speakers mounted in our open concept first floor.

You can have 4 stereo inputs on that mixer.

​

Without the mixer you would need to link the 2nd PC audio by 3.5mm line out stereo jack to the 1st PC line in. Then you need to mix the audio on the fly before outputing to the DAC.

Stereo Mix may or may not be available for you, so you may have to find a 3rd party solution.

With the Mixer you would need

2x https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Splitter-Controller-Connector-Gold-plated-Green/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=stereo+rca+to+3.5mm&qid=1565680031&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMkJENUJDUjFIS1lIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjQyMjAyT0NXWVhBN080ODkzJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNzUwMzdBUEowV0M4TjRKNUQmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

​

1x https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-connecting-smartphones-tablets-players-Black/dp/B00B2HP1FY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=stereo+rca+to+3.5mm+female&qid=1565680072&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

Wire both the the RCAs from the PC and DAC outputs into the 1st and 2nd inputs and the the female 3.5mm to the output of the mixer.

Then just set the levels.

If you don't already own this mixer I would go the software router 1st.

The Z333 uses RCA inputs on the subwoofer and RCA outputs for the speakers. Here's what you do:

First, unplug the speakers from your PC and plug it into your phone or another media device. Make sure the issue is with the speakers and not your PC.

Since we know each speaker works, try swapping the RCA inputs around. Put the red cable (right channel) in the white hole (left channel). One of two things will happen:

1. If the left speaker didn't work before, but it does now (and vice versa), then you just need a new input cable. Ugreen makes a really nice cable.
   
   
2. If nothing changes (left still doesn't work), then the issue is with the audio output channel on the subwoofer itself. This can be difficult to repair without knowing what failed inside.
   
   99% of the time, the issue is the input cable.

I went with a different approach. I got a set of these speakers and this cable. I then ran that cable from the audio output on my monitor to the speakers and set the VM to use the monitor's audio. The speakers mix the audio with hosts audio so it's fairly seemless.

I'm guessing something like that won't work in your situation

Ha, I didn't mean to scare you off. They're perfectly fine for everything. Recording is just their primary use. They sound incredible with anything you throw at them!

If that's all you're doing, ignore my original post and just get an 1/8" to RCA Red/White splitter and you're golden. https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Plated-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00LM2Y2U4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483650927&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca

It'll still sound amazing regardless.

If you still think you messed up, look into the Klipsch Promedia 2.1's. Amazing set of speakers with enough bass to piss off your neighbors, and at a fraction of the cost of the KRK's. It's actually what I sold my KRK's for, because I wasn't doing as much music stuff, haha.

If you plug in to something besides your PC are the channels still switched? If so you might want to exchange them. I don't think there's a software way in Windows to reverse channels but you could split the mic to its own cable then for the headphone side plug in 3.5mm->RCA then RCA->3.5mm but plug the RCAs into the opposite colors so the channels get switched.