Reddit Reddit reviews Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V

We found 36 Reddit comments about Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V
UPG #45978 UB121000 12V 100AhDimensions: 12.17 inches x 6.61 inches x 9.16 inches. Weight: 63.93 LbsSLA/AGM maintenance free, spill proof batteryRechargeable battery that can be mounted in any position, resists shocks and vibration1 Year Warranty
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36 Reddit comments about Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V:

u/ipickednow · 7 pointsr/preppers

I think you need to go back and consider how long you are wanting to stay in place should you need to generate your own power and triage your power consumption needs in order to carefully map out a solar/battery system. For instance, I have a 3200 watt inverter generator. I plan on keeping enough fuel to run it for a week at most should I need to provide my own power. Beyond that I've planned to leave the area for other areas where there are public services. If shit really hits the fan and there is no where for me to go, then I still see little point in stockpiling resources beyond a few days since I won't be able to defend it from my surrounding neighbors. Your neighbors aren't going to lay down and die while you ride out the apocalypse in relative comfort. A few days of in place resources and then I'm going to be mobile and use some of the survival skills I've developed over the years to try and make it.

You really haven't given any well defined power needs, so we'll just go from what you've said and make certain assumption in this exercise that illustrates how expensive power storage can get.

Each device you want to power will document its wattage ratings. Add them up. Watts = Volts Amps. Once you know how many watts you need to run everything, now you can start figuring out how large of a solar panel array you need as well as the size of the battery array you'll need to be able to power everything at night.

I may be wrong going forward, but this is how I understand it:

Here's a wattage chart.. You'll need to refer to the equipment you want to power to find their specifics, but this will put you in the ball park.

You'll notice "running" wattage and "surge" wattage. You need to be able to accommodate the surge wattage.

Just from what you mentioned, fridge, heater, microwave, you're going to need 5,000 watts to run all three at the same time. 5,000W = 120V
42A. But that's AC power. You need to work with DC power for the solar panels and batteries. Those are going to run at 12 volts. So now you need 417 amps to get 5000 watts from 12 volts.

Here's a 100 amp hour 12v deep cycle lead acid battery for $170. I'm not endorsing it, just using it as an example. u/noone512 noted a Walmart brand 100ah 12v deep cycle for $85ish. I'm going off the price of the battery I can find a link for.

You're going to need 5 of these batteries wired in parallel to get 417 amps. That's $850. It'll run all 3 appliances for 1 hour. If you want to run your appliances for the 12ish hours a day the solar panels aren't working well enough then you'll need 51 batteries wired in parallel. That's $8,670.

But wait! There's more! You can't completely drain your battery array because it'll shorten the life of it. I believe the rule of thumb is drain your batteries no more than 50%. Now you need twice the amperage. You now need 102 batteries at a cost of $17,340.

That's just the batteries which does not include taxes, shipping, electrical wiring, inverters, other components, safety devices, the solar panels, storage building, professional installation, etc.

u/tatertom · 7 pointsr/vandwellers

With a budget of $400, I'd start with a small Alpicool for around $200. That's a good price on those, and they sip around 1/2 amp/[email protected], meaning you'll need at least 36Ah of battery (.5Ax24hx3d).

Bump to 50Ah of usable power, for some wiggle room, and you can pick up something like this for $170.

The only other thing you'll need is wiring. A kit like this has most of what you need, toss in a cheap manual isolator to keep it from draining your starter battery, and you're left with a few crimp connectors and maybe a socket (might as well get a kinda-nice one).

That puts you $10 over-budget, but it'll do everything you asked for and more, and be a nice little setup to expand someday with solar or inverter or whatever. If you can score a cheaper second-hand battery initially, that'll help budget-wise, but I wouldn't bother skimping on anything else except maybe the 12v socket. The one I linked is just a nice feature to have USB and volt meter built-in, so you can reduce cord/adapter clutter if you like, and have an idea where you're at on power reserves, monitoring it manually. Downgrading that to a simple, "dumb" socket would put you within the $400 budget.

u/mupersan · 6 pointsr/vandwellers

Lets do a quick run through so you can compare:

The Yeti 1250 is 12v 100ah and 1200 watts for $1250. It has 3 USB and 3 standard plugs + other ins and outs in addition to a solar charger.

A 12v 100ah deep cycle battery off amazon is $159. You would need a charger unit ($50 on amazon) in addition to some basic electrical wiring ($20-50). Then you would need an inverter (this one is $65 w/ three plug ins and two usb inputs) for 1000 watts. Last you would need to invest in a solar charger unit (often comes with solar panel kits and those can run around $30. So probably close to $350-400

So then however you want to store these (plywood box construction and a little DIY elbow grease) you can build essentially the same unit for about 1/4 the cost.

u/gaminegrumble · 3 pointsr/GoRVing

If it were me, and I'd been having these issues, I'd replace both batteries just in case. They aren't expensive enough for it to be worth the risk in my opinion. Can't speak to your size constraints, but AGMs are nice because you don't need to top them off or worry as much about fumes. I got these ones for under $200 apiece and they've worked well:

u/jacco1995 · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

Ran an electrical system in my Subaru with an auxiliary battery charged off the alternator.

80 Amp isolator relay (switches charging on while car is running):

100AH 12V AGM battery:

2Ga Wire running the length from the Relay in the engine bay to the battery.

Kinda Extra things:
Kill Switch:
100A inline Fuse
Multimeter (read current voltage, Amperage, etc):

u/Pocok5 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

As a side note, to run it for a week, you'd need this battery (it weighs 64lbs/29kg and is more than 12in/30cm long). I'm sure you can see why trying to do it with a battery would be quite counterproductive if you were aiming for a discreet profile :D

u/VAN-Wilder · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

I went with AGM deep cycle because they are cheaper, and do not require a battery management system, or an external battery to battery charge controller to charge off the alternator.

I used 3x100 amp hour batteries (

That makes $460 including shipping for 150 amp hours of useable battery at 50% depth of discharge.

150 amp hours of lithium ion batteries is $1900 dollars. And then you have to factor in added cost for a battery to battery charger if you want to charge off the alternator.

If you aren't an expert on batteries, stick with AGM deep cycle. They are dead easy to use, and here is a video of me running a blendtec off them:

u/Other_Western · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Depends on your needs. Renogy has great kits at decent prices, you can get the parts a bit cheaper off Amazon but then there's no warranty.

If you're just looking to charge stuff and run a fridge and water pump, 200w is a good place to start. Get the panels, tape them up on the roof using VHB tape (seriously, it's the best way to do it without punching a shitload of holes in the roof, and the tape is extremely strong).

Follow the wiring diagram from Renogy for wiring up the batteries ( are the cheapest watt/dollar that you'll find for sealed batteries. I'd recommend sealed over unsealed, adding water etc is a pain in the ass and if you forget the batteries are dead) and the inverter.

Remember, every wire exiting a power source must have a fuse within the first two feet of wire, and every wire must be gauged to handle the max amp load it will face, and must be fused at less than that gauge wire is rated for. Follow those three rules and it'll all be safe if not necessarily pretty. Good luck, and feel free to ask me any questions if they come up!

u/asdfkjsdfsafdasdfa · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

It's actually not that expensive.

Well, expensive is relative, but you can get it done for a few grand, and you'll have a kick-ass electrical system to boot.

Get the 400 watt kit from renogy (650), the 200 watt kit (450), 4 of these batteries, and wire them up. Insulate van well and add a ~$100 wall unit (5000 btus, energy star) through a rear door.

all told you're looking at about $2000. You can get the components for those kits individually on amazon for cheaper (save a few hundred), or find alternatives that do the same thing without being as shiny (save 500+).

As a rule of thumb, 600 watts of solar to run at all. 800 or so to give yourself some leeway. It might not keep it at 70 degrees exactly, but it'll keep it comfortable enough, and when the temps cool down you'll have enough juice for anything short of an arc welder.

2k for an essential comfort doesn't seem too bad to me. It's an investment, but can definitely be done.

I think those estimates are based on no/shitty insulation. RV's are, as a general rule, insulated like crap (~3-5r). You can easily get 10r in every direction in a Promaster (unless you're super tall)

u/hwillis · 2 pointsr/ElectricalEngineering

> I want a brushed motor because that is the old kind that would be period specific technology.

Kind of; the first practical DC motor was built in 1886 and Tesla patented his induction motor in 1887. The modern AC induction motor was patented in 1889 and by 1900 they had surpassed DC motors in stationary applications.

By the time the Model T came out induction motors were more common than DC motors, but you're right that moving motors (cars, trains) were all DC until the 50s. The reason is that DC motors are the only motors that can be well-controlled by varying their voltage. That meant they could be controlled by rheostats and variable voltage. If they were focused on efficiency they'd have taps that would connect more and more batteries in series for a higher voltage.

Taps and rheostats are gonna make for an unpleasant driving experience, but if that's worth it to you then go for it. If you can show off the end of the motor in a cool way then that would be awesome, but do be aware that the best case efficiency of a setup like this is <50%. That's using a commercial, modern motor. I'd recommend you check this paper out, it lays out different motor efficiencies.

> I want to make a simple brushed permanent magnet motor like this I would fabricate everything myself with my cousin who works at a local machine shop and can use it on weekends.

Magnets are the easy part, unfortunately. The steel is much more important and a lot harder to get. You can get laminations made but that'll run you into $XX,XXX pretty easily IIRC. Doesn't hurt to ask though.

If you're considering using a normal low-carbon steel, don't. The drag at 1 Tesla (probably less than your magnets) and 3000 RPM is around 600 watts/kg to hysteresis alone. You'll be burning 25-75 horsepower just to cruise, the motor would need liquid cooling and a car-sized radiator, and that isn't even counting the other losses. You need a real core to make a motor like this.

> I'm asking about what kind of specs are needed for a motor to get about 50hp at around 600RPM.

I don't have time to do the math right now, but that would require some actual design work. Motors prefer to run in the 1000s of RPM, particularly DC motors. Low speeds like that are better for induction motors or even switched-DC motors. A slow DC motor would have to be very, very large.

> I only want a 10 mile range because that is plenty for my daily driving.

Modern electric cars get ~300 Wh/mile, but this setup would run closer to 1000-1600 Wh/mile. You'll also want a large buffer capacity to avoid sulfation, so ~1500 Ah is probably reasonable. Using these batteries that's around $2550 and 960 lbs of batteries.

u/baumat · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Much appreciated! I'm in the US so that doesn't work for me, I've found a 100ah on amazon for the same price though. I think there's a UK alternative too

u/pyromaster114 · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

First off, to answer your question:

That's almost certainly a flooded battery. It's probably a, "maintenance free" flooded battery. This simply means of course, that it's a piece of junk because you can never add water to it. It'll still off-gas like a normal flooded one though. So not good for indoor use really.


Second, you don't want those batteries:

You really need something that's actually deep cycle, not one of those 'hybrid' types used for starting a motor and running a few lights on a boat. You can tell because it states the "CCA" or Cold Cranking Amps. This is a starter battery, not a true deep cycle. It's also a very cheap one, which doesn't bode well for it's performance either in your application.

I'd advise you return those batteries and buy some good, true deep cycle, AGM batteries.


This is more in line with what you want, most likely:

Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12V



So, here's an (well, maybe) easy test: Pick up the battery and shake it around. If the battery 'sloshes' like it's full of water, then it's flooded for sure. If it doesn't... well, no guarantee either way still.

Note, this will take quite a bit of strength, careful not to hurt yourself.



So, I've called the local Advance Auto Parts here in my town, and they THINK it's an AGM battery... though the lady didn't sound too sure. Still looking for a data sheet though, that's the only thing I'd trust at the moment without seeing the battery myself.

u/lirakis · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

If you want a single battery, get a 100ah lithium iron phosphate... its gonna cost you though...

AGM batteries are only useful for 50% of their advertised AH rating vs like 80%+ for Lifepo, also lifepo are lighter weight, and have more recharge cycles.

I run 2 of these right now to get 100 useful AH, and I am hopeful that in ~3 years when its time to get new batteries the cost of LifePo will have come down b/c they really are vastly superior in every way.

u/Whatsmyfookinpasswrd · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

I personally recommend going with these to avoid the lead acid issues ScreamingEel mentioned. I just checked camelcamelcamel and they have gotten as low as 125 a piece. They were actually 125 yesterday, which is a killer deal. I think I paid 180 a piece :(

u/nolyfe27 · 2 pointsr/solar

My Batteries are Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah wired in series parallel to 48 volts.


Charge Controller is a Epever 80amp MPPT


Panels are 3 48volt 345 watt panels wired in series


The batteries say they can handle a max amperage of 30amps, the highest i have seen get pushed to them is 5, nowhere near the limit. The noise the batteries make sounds like the snap crackle pop of Rice crispies.


I really need help and am pulling out my hair regretting even building this system to begin with.

u/mydarkerside · 1 pointr/solar

You'll want an AGM deep cycle battery, not standard car battery. Doesn't really matter what the terminals are like since you can always buy different terminal types. I bought two of these from Amazon for about $170 each before tax and have been happy with them. I've also looked into used lithium batteries from medical devices, but it gets more complicated because you need a battery management system.

It gets expensive if you build a 400ah system, so I would look more into energy efficient devices or solutions. I did a google search for raising chickens in cold weather and it actually says don't over insulate or heat the coop. You said oneconcern is the water freezing, so maybe just focus on that.

u/joergonix · 1 pointr/solar

Thank you so much! That is incredibly helpful information.

Hypothetically if I were planning to spend about $700 on the solar setup and batteries do you think I would be smarter to save a bit of money on the controller by going PWM rather and MPPT and put it into an extra panel? I could do 3 panels, and 2 of these: AGM 12v 100ah batteries. Price would be similar to the golf cart batteries. Would this setup be an improvement?

Also found a good deal on a DC fridge that consumes about 4.2amps which at 12v would be about 50watts and should theoretically be awesome for my setup right?

Do you think

u/aderra · 1 pointr/audioengineering

THESE are the batteries I have.

u/ExpertCommission4sdf · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Only real adjustments to this I'd suggest; for charging off the car's alternator, just go with a solenoid. It's cheaper, won't drain your car's battery at all (the smart isolaters do draw a small amount of power all the time), and if you can give your car a jump start if needed by turning the key and letting the house battery charge the car battery. And there's no downsides. Smart isolaters are a waste imo.

Also, save $30 and get the unbranded version of that battery.

Same specs I believe so it's probably even made in the same factory in China. I've had great results with mine the past few years

u/asdlkfsdlk · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I'm open to suggestions, but I don't know of any new options that can beat them in that category. Used can be cheaper of course.

My normal recommendation is these guys, which blow lithium out of the water watt per dollar, and the walmart batteries are even cheaper. I don't normally recommend them because they're unsealed, which is a pain, and includes the risk of destroying it early by forgetting about maintenance, but they are the same capacity for $70 less.

Lithium lasts longer than lead acid (7-10 years vs 3-5), and you can safely use 80% of the nominal capacity without damaging their lifespan instead of just 50% of it for lead acid, but the price difference is still too high to make it worth it.

Since lithium gives you 1.6x the usable capacity (80/50), and lasts twice as long, that results in a price premium factor of 2.6. Aka, a 100 amp hour lithium battery is worth 2.6x the price of a 100ah lead-acid battery. Or, saying that differently, you would have to buy 2.6 100 amp hour lead-acid batteries to get the same capacity over their lifespan as you would get from one 100 amp hour lithium battery over it's lifespan. Lasts 2x as long, and provides .6x more power for the same nominal capacity.

With that said, the lithium equivalent to that walmart battery would be a $260 100ah LiFePo4 battery.

Renogy sells a 100 amp hour LiFePo4 for $899. The cheapest sketchy ebay one I can find is $500 after shipping. Lead acid still rules for capacity by price, by far. Unless, of course, you have a better source than I do

u/MrBroccoli89 · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I found this site,, to have a lot of good product options and a whole of info for learning about solar in RVS or in our case vans.

For cheap batteries I was going with this:
Since it is 12V you don't have to stay even in numbers.

As far as solar don't forget your van has an alternator that charges batteries.How much it will charge depends on how much you drive daily, the size of the alternator, and the load demand from you vans accessories on it. Just make sure to get a battery isolator. This may lessen the amount of solar you need.

u/Greeneee- · 1 pointr/vandwellers

The cheapest and easiest thing would be to buy a 4000 watt generator..

You've made it clear you don't want to run a generator. You'll want at least 120-200 amp hours in batteries. Pulling 30a, on one battery from 100% to 40% will kill that battery real quick. Having two will spread the load and extend the lifetime of the batteries. Wire a 10 amp battery charger that you plug an extension cord into every night.

Have a 4000 watt inverter, pure sine not modified, otherwise you will use 120-150 amps in battery power, just to get 60 amps into the scooters (massive efficiency loss). Have that hooked up to your two deep cycle batteries. Run a power strip and plug in all your scooter chargers. Then when your home plug in the shore power to recharge your batteries.


u/Keepersofthearcane · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel (New Edition)

EPEVER MPPT Solar Charge Controller 40A 150V PV Solar Panel Controller Negative Ground W/ MT50 Remote Meter + Temperature Sensor PC Monitoring Cable[Tracer4215BN]

Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V

u/kylenabox · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V

KRIËGER 1100 Watt 12V Power Inverter Dual 110V AC Outlets, Installation Kit Included, Automotive Back Up Power Supply For Blenders, Vacuums, Power Tools MET Approved According to UL and CSA.

u/longtrekkerDOTcom · 1 pointr/urbancarliving

Yes! Two of these: Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH

If I had enough space I'd get more. When I upgrade to a van I'll probably switch to lithium batteries.

u/SolidAxle · 1 pointr/preppers

Buy a couple large deep cycle batteries and a battery tender to keep them charged

For example, this battery: is 100ah at 12v, which is roughly 1200 watt hours. For comparison, A 3.7v 20,000 mah phone power bank is 74 watt hours.

Get something like this: to allow using your car charger with a standalone battery.

Add a 100w solar kit: if you expect sunny weather during your power outages

u/Baron164 · 1 pointr/sailing

Yes, just a day sailor.

I found the book on Amazon so I'll definitely order it and give it a good read.

This wire is about $90 for 100ft of 12awg triplex wire.

And would a single 100Ah battery like this one be sufficient with a 50W solar panel for what I'm trying to do?

u/Sierrasclimber · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Or 1200 watts for $180 or $0.14 per watt. Its slightly larger and you can use cheap chargers on it. Lithium maybe the future but the price point is too high for most unless what you're doing is really minimal.

What are you going to run at 120V? That is not minimal. Using an cell phone battery is great for charging cell phones, not much else.

u/thalassicus · 1 pointr/BurningMan

These guys are a great resource to learn about solar. It's geared toward RVs, but because they aren't tech people, the information is very digestible which I like. This video shows them with a 6 panel array drawing 45amps during the day at peak hours.

Chances are, if you go a-la-carte with something like these portable solar panels as a base, and ran a few of these deep cycle batteries in parallel, you'll save some money and be able to better tune the system to your needs. You'll still need a solar controller and if you want 120v plugs, an inverter, but it should be a fun project.

u/waboosh · 1 pointr/vandwellers

This is what I use, 100Ah

Get a sealed deep cycle battery. No maintenance and worry free.

I don't power much. Pump for sink, roof fan, lights, and my electronics so 100 was enough for me. I would say 150 should do the trick and might be too much but you'll need to calculate all that to be sure.

u/qchambs · 1 pointr/vandwellers

The batteries are AGM( and the controller is The solar is completely separate from the vans electricity so that wont be an issue. The charge controller and the inverter both display the voltage but I also have a multimeter I can double check with. I set the battery type but I don't see any option for setting the AH. I assumed it wouldn't need to know the AH since it would just turn off once the voltage was high enough. I have the PV off set to 13.7.