Reddit Reddit reviews uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

We found 64 Reddit comments about uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink
Product Name : CPU Thermal Pad;Material : SiliconeSize : 40 x 20.5cm/15.7'' x 8.1'' (L*W)Thickness : 0.5mm/0.02''Weight : 103gPackage Content : 1 x CPU Thermal Pad
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64 Reddit comments about uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink:

u/Cyclonite · 9 pointsr/3Dprinting

If it helps, I bought the MonoPrice Maker Select a few months ago. I absolutely love tinkering, so it was perfect for me. I have had more fun figuring out what's going on. It took some time and effort, but I now have a solid printer (relatively speaking, as it's my first printer). :)

If you do end up going with this printer, I recommend searching for standard duplicator i3 mods. It's essentially the same, but already has some decent upgrades, such as the x-axis dampers. Here are the mods that have made a huge difference for me:

  • Z Braces - This has, by far, made the biggest difference in my prints. The printer is super solid now, and made my bed considerably more level.
  • Glass Bed - My experience has been that the aluminum bed is a little too thin and flexes more than I'd like, creating an uneven surface. This helps offset that. You'll need to move your z-stop up, though. There are already screw-holes that should work for this. I also used a few thermal pads under the bed at each corner.
  • This is a really good post for the rest of the things I looked at. Make sure that if you do anything, it hasn't already been done by the manufacturer.

    Overall, I'm super happy with the $350 + $50-$75 I've spent on the printer. It does a pretty damn good job. I've certainly learned that it requires patience, knowledge, and tweaking to create the prints you want. Take this as you will, though. It's my first printer. Still saving for something higher end. :)

    A couple other nice-to-haves:

  • Blower fan mod - Had to turn my fan speed down significantly in my slicer to prevent the hot-end from cooling too much too quickly, but it cools all around the plastic instead of from one direction.
  • Four of these in combination with some M3 nylocks are fantastic. You'll hurt your fingers screwing them on, but once in place, they really help in fine-tuning your bed-leveling. When you print them, I recommend starting with a lighter filament, and pausing to switch to a darker filament just as the numbers start forming. It gives it a nice look, and makes it a little easier to see the movement.
u/clanggedin · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

I NEVER have had my glass move on me in 3 years of printing. If you use gino pads it will never move on you.

u/Kronoshifter246 · 4 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That's almost certainly it.

If you're switching to glass, I would recommend against using binder clips, and instead using some silicone pad, as the binder clips caused my glass plate to bow upward in the center. I used this one. This does require you to peel off the BuildTak and remove the adhesive beneath it. I got it to come off with some vaseline and about 30 minutes of scraping with the included scraper tool while the bed was heated.

After that I just cut out some little squares of the silicone and rested the glass on top of it. Works like a charm.

u/Huskwild · 4 pointsr/ender3

This is the glass I’m using:

Wisamic 3D Printer Heated Bed...

In order, from the top down, I have:

-Textured Ender 3 Pro removable magnetic bed

-Adhesive backed magnetic layer

-Glass bed (linked above)

-3”x3” Silicon pads cut from this material:
uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm...

-Original adhesive backed magnetic layer (I am testing to see if I could revert to stock at any point, no functional reason)
-Aluminum build plate

Edit: Corrected formatting

u/nystark · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

All clips suck pretty bad...
I've been using this stuff for a while and I'll never use a clip again.

u/nineismine · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have had mine for a few weeks. I could not consistently produce anything until I did the glass bed mod. To me this is the MOST important mod to do as soon as you get your printer.

A couple notes on this :

Here are the parts I used specifically for my maker select v2.1

Thermal pad:

When you start this mod you will have to remove the buildtac pad that comes on the bed. This was the hardest part of the installation. I warmed up my bed and tried to peel the surface off but no matter how I went at it I ended up leaving all of the glue on the plate with only the pad coming up. Hopefully you will get lucky and at least some of the glue will come up.

After removing the pad I had a TON of glue to clean up, I used a citris based goop off solution and spent well over a half hour scraping glue. if I did it again I would have used a plastic scraper instead of the metal one that comes with the unit because the metal one put scratches on the bed. I don't think there is a functional issue with that it just looks ugly.

One thing to note about removing the glue. There is a hole in the middle of the plate and if you use a adhesive remover liquid it will get into this hole, which then drips into the the pocket created by the tape that is holding the heating element on. In other words you might want to cover the hole.

After you get all the glue off, just cute a bunch of squares out of the thermal pad. using someone else's tutorial I measured out 2 inch squares and found I had an uneven pattern when I put them on. This didn't seem to make a difference.

Make you you adjust the Z endstop. If you are facing the front of t he machine it is on your left behind the support. I adjusted mine up one notch of what appeared to be 4 available.

u/RajenK · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Thermal pads aren't permanent. They're tacky, but don't stick permanently. I have my glass plate attached to the aluminum bed with 4 triangles of this thermal pad.

u/AdamTa17 · 3 pointsr/ender3

uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

You’ll have to cut it to cover the full bed, but that won’t affect anything. (The width is only 200mm, so you’ll have to cut another 35mm strip)

Also be careful, because this is very brittle and will rip in your hands.

u/IcanCwhatUsay · 3 pointsr/3dprinter

> Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

  • How long have you had your Flashforge, and how much have you printed on it?

    I purchased it last August. (781 hours logged) It's almost litterly been printing out of the box since day one. The only issue I had out of the box is that the one screw on the build plate got bent as a result of the 2 free spools bouncing into it. I ordered a box of them from McMaster and had it fixed by the end of the week. I contacted Lisa on their google chat form and from what I understand, they now come with the screw as a result of my support ticket. This was an annoyance yes, but I've had more issues with my reprap and that costed me more than this pritner when I bought it. (I originally had a Makergear Prusa)

  • What do you like the most and the least about this printer?

    Most: I love the fact that it prints 100% of the times I try to print something. I rarely, and I mean RARELY have a failed print. I love that I can hit print before I go to bed and wake up to a completed part in the morning.

    Least: This is small, and it took a while but I have since out grown the build platform (9x6x6 inches). I recently ordred an 8x12 plate from McMaster and that arrives on monday and we'll see how that works. (PSA this requires removing one of the extruders - if you want more info on this let me know)

  • Have you printed with ABS?

    Yes, no issues. Just close up the printer with the included panels.

  • If so, did you experience any problems such as curling?

    No, I use a glass build plate and a thin coat of purple glue stick. I then spritz water on the plate before each print. I never have a sticking issue and I never have warpage. I personally prefer PLA though since Hatchbox has come to light and makes GREAT PLA

  • Have you had any problems with the metal bed warping or with leveling the bed?

    Like I said just above, I use a glass build plate, so I haven't had any warpage issues with the bp. Leveling the bed is a bit of a challenge but I'm fussy about it and I want it within 0.0005 or less so it takes me a while. The reason I'm fussy is because I've only had to level the bed 2 or 3 times since owning it.

    The first was when I got it

    The second was when I added the glass build plate

    The third was when I removed one extruder and added an aluminum carriage.

    That's it. It never lost it's level and it's gone through 3 moves (like I moved apartment to apartment)

  • Finally, how is the customer service or community support for this printer? Thanks again!

    The only experience I had was with that screw initially. I contacted Lisa on their Google Chat forum and she handled it mostly. Sadly, it wasn't as 'perfect' as I wanted since their solution was to send the printer back instead of sending me a new screw. Never the less, they did try to help on the matter and told me how I could go about getting money for the screw if I so desired. In the long run, it's a screw and I just ordered them from McMaster. I have zero regrets from it and I think I know my printer a bit beter because of it.

    single extruder carriage (PSA: their single extruder block is not FF compatible.

    My Thingiverse for example prints

    Some things I would buy shortly after getting the printer:

    Spare Extruder fan : I tend to slip and put a screw drive in the path of this, shattering the blades. If you're a clutz like me, get it. I've needed 4 so far. ::hangs head in shame::

    Glass Build Plate : Best purchase I've made for my FF. Works great, easy to install and use. Also get thermal sheets and purple elmers glue, and print the spacer found on my Thingiverse page under "Flashforge Upgrades". Also get a spatula, and dikes

    Simplify3D : A lot people tend to spend $X,XXX on a printer and then try to use free software with it and complain when it doesn't print right. To me that's like buying a car without tires. A Corvette ain't shit without a decent set of tires. It's kind of pricy compared to free, I know, but at real CAM programs (which is what this basically is) cost $8,000 or more. It truely is a great printer program and I wish I had purchased it much MUCH sooner than I had.

    Last and most importantly, get the an active cooling fan. I originally printed this, and purchased a 12v power supply and added some fans to it. I have since moved on to the offical one from FF. It's not as good but I haven't really ran into an issue. If I had to print from my right extruder, it would be an issue though. What I liked about it, is that it's a plug and play added on. No "modifications" needed to added.

    TL;DR / Closing thoughts: I would buy this printer again in a heartbeat. ESPECIALLY if they came out with one similar to the Replicator 2 with the 11.9" build plate. Instead it looks like they went a different way judging by CES but oh well, there's always next year. Further more, I think this is a great entry level printer for someone looking to have a printer help with projects and not be one of them. That doesn't mean you can't mod it or upgrade or whatever, it just means you don't have to if you don't want to.

    Hope this helps and answers any questions you might have. Feel free to ask more though!
u/Ratatattat44 · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I had the exact same issues. A glass bed, thermal pad, and aquanet hairspray (yes, two is cheaper than 1) fixed it and I haven't had bed adhesion problems since. In fact, I have to use a flat razerblade just to get prints off the bed sometimes, lol.

u/other_thoughts · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Here are some links, the first has bold title and above it is a list of 'parent' links of 3M products
I'm not familiar with this product but it seems in the same catagory

u/LiquidLogic · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Buy silicone thermal pads, cut into 2-inch squares and place all over the heated bed. Place borosilicate glass on top and discard your clips.

u/honoredtwig · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You want this, it's a thermal conductor, not an insulator.

It works great for me (I wish I could claim this as my own, but I learned about it from the Wanhao Google Group).

u/BongBudz · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I started to print out the clamps for the glass bed mod but didn't like the way they worked so I ordered a Thermal pad that makes the glass stick without clamps. If you remove that black pad on your bed it fits nice a snug. All you need to do is heat up your bed to 100c and once it gets nice and warm use something to pull up a corner of the black pad & voila new glass bed. The glass bed will make your first layer butter smooth.

u/kingofkingsss · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Not OP, but I got this - look for something similar/same size. to attach it to the metal plate

I ended up getting this and m3 tape too.

u/alexamoUS · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You should try with that silicone thermal pad.
not easy to install cause super thin but once done, you won't even need biners to hold the glass on top of it

u/AP0is0nb3rry · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I have a thermal pad sandwiched between the glass plate and the bed and it provides decent friction to keep the plate on but I also use two metal bag clips in the front and back to make sure the plate is pressed against the bed.

Glass Plate: BKM 130mm X 160mm, 3mm Thick Borosilicate Glass Plate, Select Mini

Alternatively, I've heard of people using glass they cut from a picture frame using a glass cutter

Thermal Pad: uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

Not entirely necessary but supposedly this helps transfer heat more evenly and you get a huge sheet so you can get like 4 uses out of it if you optimize your cutting.

u/ACM1911 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I probably wouldn't glue it on. I will probably go with these thermal pads in the future.

u/Quasimorte · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

No need for clips, cut small squares and put between glass and bed. Heat still transfers and the silicone keeps the glass from moving.

u/Macecraft31 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

As I understand it, it helps the glass make good thermal contact with the hotbed. It was a pain to get in place (think the world's most unruly and sticky saran wrap). But it is the best upgrade Ive made so far. Here's what I have:

thermal pad:

glass plate:

u/3170 · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

Not that I recall, but I bought a pretty early version of the Monoprice Maker Select when they dropped the price a few years ago, and the glass bed was one of my first additions.

The mod isn't difficult. I had a 16"x24" piece of window glass cut into four 8" squares. They did it at the hardware store (Lowe's iirc) for no extra charge.

The squares lay on the bed using four 1" (or so) thermal pads. I bought a sheet of the stuff from Amazon and just cut what I needed. It occasionally tears, so I replace it a couple of times per year. Using the thermal pad eliminates the need for binder clips or something more elaborate to hold the glass on the printer's bed.

The Z-Stop adjuster I used is so old that I probably wouldn't use it today. Just search Thingiverse and pick one you like. There are some nice designs out there.

Here's the process I would follow:

  1. Install the z-stop adjuster and raise it all the way up.
  2. Adjust the bed so that you are at the mid-point of the adjustment screws
  3. Put the thermal pad on the corners of the bed
  4. Put the glass on the thermal pad
  5. Adjust the Z-Stop so that it activates just before your nozzle hits the bed
  6. Level the bed like you normally would - by adjusting the four screws at the corners

u/zarderxio · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

The glass bed does not need to touch for the heat transfer. As /u/Grey406 recommends, get thermal pads, but get these:

Cut them in two inch squares and put them maybe in each corner and one in the middle (do not fill the whole bed). I would highly suggest not using binder clips. I have the maker select 2.1 and this is a great setup, PLA and PETG have been great with it. The heat will transfer just fine with it floating on top and I've found the binder clips will warp thinner glass. Use aqua hairspray if you need to.

For the glass size: Either get the glass cut to fit within the screws, or buy a dedicated piece of borosillicate glass on amazon that will fit your bed size.

u/Spiraldox · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

get some silicon pads..

I cut them into triangles and put them in each corner of the glass bed. It'll hold it snug and won't move while you're printing.

u/seentoomuchlately · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I used this stuff in between the bed and the glass.

u/shuttup_meg · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

You don't have to have anything between the glass and the bed, but I used this stuff:

I didn't use any clips to hold it on, just gravity--which won't work on your space station unless you are spinning your setup--but I did have one print that messed up and moved the bed a little. I probably should use clips, even though that wouldn't have saved my print. i.e. if a print is at the point where the nozzle is trying to push the part with a force that is able to overcome the coefficient of static friction you have probably already lost the print.

u/blahism · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I trimmed up some stuff like this: - it's kind of sticky (frusterating) to work with but works well. There may be other sellers with some already fit for your size.

u/Tron08 · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I had good luck with this glass with the corners pre-cut:

Don't forget to get this to help transfer the heat from the aluminum to the glass, also helps as a non-slip surface to help hold the glass in place:

u/o_kisutch · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Heat the bed to 60°, and the buildtak will come off perfect. Then use a thermal gpu pad between the metal and the glass.

u/ZombieGrot · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

0.5mm silicone pads like this are what most people use. Example (on a different style printer).

My build plate is flat enough that I can just arrange the pads in an array. If yours is really bad, you may be able to skip the ones over the highest spots. The glass will be slightly cooler there, so give it enough time to preheat and, perhaps, take the hot/cool spots into account when arranging the print in your slicer.

u/KevMag · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I think that the aluminum bed is expanding rather than your glass shrinking. Silicone thermal pads cut into 2" squares work well and expansion doesn't seem to affect them.

u/excellentfrog · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Is it the 12" i3v? The PCB heatbed tends to warp when heated because the heating element is on one side of the PCB. When I was using bang-bang, I placed the nozzle at the center and was able to visibly see the PCB warp away from the nozzle during the heating portion of the cycle (every ~5 seconds).

The following helped me:

  • Switch from bang-bang to PID (configuration.h in Marlin). You will need to replace the mechanical relay with a solid state relay (SSR). I recommend this one - If you decide to get a Fotek or similar instead, try to order one with a much higher current rating than you need.
  • Buy 12"x12" mirror tile from Lowes. It's a little bit thicker than cut glass and so it is less prone to bending.
  • Stick the mirror tile to the PCB heat bed using the silicone thermal pads instead of using the bulldog clips. Clipping the glass to the PCB heatbed will cause it to bend with the heatbed. (
  • Make sure your hotend and extruder assembly is not loose on the x-carriage. Wiggle it up and down with your hand. See if the eccentric nut needs adjusting.
u/mrgreen4242 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Nothing to feel bad about! This stuff is new to everyone at some point and none of it is super intuitive.

My recommendation is to peel them both off, clean up the build plate up with rubbing alcohol, then get some glass sheets and cut them to 8x8" or 8x8.5", and use some of this stuff cut into 8-12 1x1" squares to hold it onto the build plate, 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

Spray it with a thin layer of hairspray and let it dry while the printer heats up. You'll have to re-level the bed of course and might need to move the z end stop to make it fit.

u/wscarlton · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Bed heating will not be an issue. Here is what I (and a lot of others have done):

Take off the BuildTak so that you have the bear aluminum bed (make sure to clean it of all the leftover adhesive from the BuildTak). Get some silicone pads and cut about 2"x2" squares and place them at each corner. Place the glass plate on top and you're done.

Here is my setup.

u/nnt_ · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

The Monoprice printer can't really go hot enough to worry about needing borosilicate.

I've been using a $2 sheet I got locally for months without an issue. If it fails, I'll buy another.

Spend the money you saved to buy this

Put a 1 inch square at all four corners of the glass. It's tacky enough to keep the glass from shifting, but easy to remove. That package will basically be a lifetime supply.

Your head will crash into binder clips. They're super annoying.

u/suziesamantha · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I ordered mine from Amazon.

One possibility is that I do not have an air conditioner as I don't need one, the temps where I live rarely hit 80F or drop below 50F. Air conditioners are also dehumidifers. If you have AC maybe it dried it out sooner, just a guess.

The other possibility could be that I keep my glass on the bed all the time and only remove it to clean it or apply hairspray. Maybe since I keep mine covered it did not dry out. Again only a guess. I don't know your situation.

u/Gladauk · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Picture of my glass bed

I just used binder clips until I can model a more permanent solution. I also left spaces in the corners so I can still adjust my bed leveling as needed.

I did not need to print any spacers at all, I was able to lower the bed enough where the head didnt crash into the bed.

sorry about the blurry quality, I am in the middle of a print. Now earlier the dimensions I showed you for the glass, that was for the mini select not the i3.

also for better heat transfer and less movement of the glass I did add a layer of silicone to the bed

it is not necessary to have the silicone at all but for me I like the peace of mind of not having anything slip. (I tend to print a lot while I am sleeping or at work)

Doing a bit of research this is an article about glass beds specifically tailored to your printer

u/Argh_computers · 1 pointr/voroncorexy

Nope, no binder clips.. I use this stuff which works very nice and really grips both the metal plate and glass when it's heated up but releases the glass pretty easily when it cools.

u/philamander · 1 pointr/ender3

I bought this because I had a glass bed and I was wanting to get it to stick to the carriage without having to use clips. So, you cut that sheet up into squares and place them in a checkerboard pattern on the aluminum bed. The consistency of heat on the bed is still good and it doesn't move around when printing. Just makes it annoying to take the glass bed off if I have to do something with the aluminum bed because the thermal pads will move or come off or stick to something else and I have to position them again.

u/kuthulu · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I had the exact same issue. I solved it by:

  1. getting a cheap piece of glass and sticking my PEI sheet to it.

  2. Then I heated up the buildplate to about 100 and peeled off the buildtak.
  3. put down 4-5 pieces of silicone thermal padding on the bare buildplate. (It will stick to the glass and hold it in place.)
  4. Put the glass on top of the silicone pads (PEI side up)
  5. Raise your Z Stop (depends on the thickness of the glass)
  6. remove the nice glass holders

    The glass holders were nice while I was transitioning from using the stock buildtak but the steps I described only take about 20min once you have all the parts. I would also replace your Y Carriage plate. It will save you a lot of time leveling your bed. I only level mine about 3-4 weeks.
u/SpaceCow1 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

It is almost a must do if you want to use your whole bed, the aluminium warps and it is impossible to level. Make sure to put .5mm thermal pads and don't use clips to hold the glass.

u/RaptorCoptor · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This one looks similar to the one I bought in the states. It should come as a big pad with clear plastic on both sides to protect the adhesiveness.

Just cut shapes out of the pad, remove the plastic backings, and carefully put it on the bed. It might be a little tricky to get it on there, but once it's on it should stick pretty well.

u/SudoICE · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Check your drive gear, make sure it's clean and not full of filament. Make sure the first layer is not too close, there shouldn't be any clicking on the first layer. The first layer is the most important, IMHO. You might want to try a cold pull just for kick, although it's hard to believe both hot ends would need one. I hate to even jinx it, but to date my Maker Select v1 has yet to jam during a print, ever (I've only had it for a year). **Switching filaments it a pain though.

For good adhesion I use glass for printing, apply hair spray for PLA and glue stick for ABS before printing, both come off with water. Use cheap glass pane from hardware store and sand the edges/corners, use a "Silicone Thermal Pad" under the glass to stick to the bed.

It's a good printer for the money, hang in there.

u/ThePieWhisperer · 1 pointr/Reprap

I have the same printer and had issues with bed flatness. If you're down to move to glass, I'd recommend the square

and one of

I'm using it on top of the build surface that came with it (never bothered to remove the factory one), and the silicone just sticks the glass down plenty. Would probably work fine on the bare aluminum too.

u/ON_A_POWERPLAY · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Glad I could help. (Maybe? ;)

Good turning down the accelerations and jerk I had to do the same thing and it does help.

So for the glass bed, I bought [this one] ( which has been excellent for me despite some of the bad reviews. I also bought this thermal pad. It has to come from china which is kinda a pain but it delivered pretty quickly and is HUGE compared to some of the other ones on amazon. That means I can use it for other projects and have replacement pads, which is nice.

Here's a great guide for this and for most things related to this printer

I also went ahead and upgraded to a Micro Swiss nozzle which has been a really nice upgrade for me. I also upgraded the filament feed lever because I like fancy aluminium replacement parts and the plastic one didn't seem like it was going to make it in the long run.

A note about shipping: They are FAST. I hit order and within fifteen minutes my order was out their door and on it's way.

The final thing I did was purchase a shim set. At my work, we do a LOT with 3D printing. We've found that using shims to set the nozzle exactly .2mm off the bed is the best way to get the printer to excel on the first layer. If you are confused on how to use the shims to achieve this, I can take a picture.

EDIT: When using the glass bed you're going to have use Elmers Disapearing Purple School Glue to get prints to stick. It's cheap and has been giving me excellent results. I may switch to Elmers Glue-All which we were using at work for Nylon prints and Gahddamn is that stuff great for nylon prints.

EDIT: RECALIBRATE YOUR ESTEP. This fixed a lot of my infill and layer problems because now my extruder is laying down the correct amount of filament.

u/louspinuso · 1 pointr/wanhaoi3

I've had this machine now for about 4 or 5 years, and it went unused for a little over 2 years because I wound up with a clogged PTFE tube and decided that I would just change the hot end for the all metal. I went out and bought the hot end, put it on a shelf, had a baby and been running around until about 3 weeks ago when I finally found some time in my schedule to rip into the printer and replace the hotend. The prints are decent (I wish I could push it a bit faster) but I still have problems with bed leveling (more like annoyances that I actually have to relevel it every so often).

The upgrades I've done (both before and now) are:

  • Z-Brace
  • MicroSwiss all metal hot end
  • mirror print surface
  • Printer Enclosure
  • Spool holder (is that even really an upgrade?)
  • bed nut retainers to make leveling a bit easier
  • MOSFET for heat bed
  • Upgraded the Y carriage plate to something substantially thicker
  • added a 120mm PSU fan to the control box (makes it so much quieter, it's insane)
  • upgraded extruder cooling fan (the one that blows on the heatsink) to a quieter fan that pushes more air
  • Changed belt tensioners to remove springs
  • use thermal pad to hold glass in place
  • Added OctoPi (last night) and it's a gamechanger

    I mostly print ABS (trying PETG and it's driving me crazy) so cooling hasn't really been an issue as the fans are usually off (maybe I need a better cooler for the PETG?) and find that the glass (now mirror) is definitely the way to go and forget the binder clips, those things are a damn nuissance. The thermal pad holds the glass so tight when it's warm it's not going anywhere, and it doesn't let go too easily when it's cool either.

    What I really want to add next is an auto bed level, but I keep finding people complaining about how hard it is to add to the Melzi board. Hopefully I find something soon, that's probably about the last "major" change I want to make (until I find a new annoyance).
u/ZilockeTheandil · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

OK, now that I've actually used my thermal pad, I love it! The print I'm currently running is adhering even better than normal, plus I didn't even use the clips! It's just tacky enough to hold the glass in place.

u/midnightsmith · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Super well! Like glue really, I don't even use the glass plate clamps.

Amazon link 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

u/dotPhoenix · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

You need some thermal pads( roughly 1"x1" to put under the 4 corners of the bed. This will raise the glass bed up by 0.5mm and will prevent a warped aluminum bed from influencing the leveling process. Heat the bed up and clip some binder clips on the 4 corners over the thermal pads. Let it sit for a few minutes. This ensures the pads are compressed and in full contact with the 4 corners of the bed. Once you are ready to level the bead, the clips can be removed. The pads are sticky enough where the glass bed won't slide off while printing. With a glass bed, you need to apply a material the plastic will still to. This can be a glue stick, Auqua Net hairspray(brand is important or a sheet of PEI. Auqua Net hairspray works great, but needs recoating after a few prints.

u/skline3D · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Here is my setup.

This is the silicone. It comes in a sheet and I just cut 50mm squares :)

Hope this helps. Sorry for the late reply to the late question! Happy printing!

u/Ogg_Vorbis · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I went to my local glass shop and had them cut me a few pieces of glass 200mmx220mm and about 3mm thick. I don't have it clamped to the bed, I just cut off squares of this silicone thermal pad, which is sticky enough to keep the bed in place. I also bought a PEI sheet and have applied it to one of the pieces of glass, which I use for PLA. I've heard using a PEI sheet with PETG is a real pain, so I have a couple plain glass beds if I ever try printing with that.

u/brok249 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Something like this? Certainly seems like what I'm looking for.

u/coffeegeekdc · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I guess to be fair, you DO need a silicon pad underneath, which adds another $9

uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

u/Branflakes222 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Happy to be here the day the thread was created.

I'm looking at some improvements for my Wanhao duplicator i3. I'm looking for new nozzles, a new fan, and a glass bed. This'll be my first time modifying the printer other than adding the heating bed mosfet.

Also I recently learned that hatchboc lists their PLA as having a +-.03mm tolerance when in reality it's .05 and they charge enough that I could've been going with amazon basic this whole time. So I'm looking for a new filament manufacturer.

These are the nozzles (amazon link) I was looking at. I'm still using the .4mm the printer came with and I'm planning on using the smaller sizes mostly. My question is is this a fair price for this range (two each, .2 .3 .4 .5 .8 1.0) of sizes? Nobody is talking about the durability in the reviews (which are all 5 stars so I'm extra cautious) so what should I be looking for? They're all brass which is what I'm used to, and I'll I've ever really heard of.

This is the fan (banggood link) I was looking at to go with the cooler (thingiverse link) I've been using. Not too concerned with this buy. Just wanted to see if anyone else is familiar with the seller. I haven't spent much time on it but if I can find the same fan with prime on amazon I'm probably going to jump on it.

This is the glass bed (Amazon link) I was looking at. It's been months since I've worked with a glass bed and I don't really want to use binder clips. I was looking at this thermal pad (Amazon) and I have no idea what to look for. The size is what I'd expect but is there some spec I should be looking for? Is silicone just silicone and I should be buying the cheapest thing I can find? I believe I have the tools to cut the corners on the glass myself so I'm not too concerned with that.

That you for the read! Sorry I have so much I'm trying to be very careful with all this.

u/WhatDoIKnow2 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

As others have said, use cheap hairspray, glue stick, or painters tape.

I don't see anything under your glass. Buy this and cut some small squares to put between the glass and bed. It's a lifetime supply. My Maker Select bed is slightly concave in the middle so my glass only touches the pads on the edges.

I had to get my nozzle closer with glass than I did with the stock buildtack.

It looks like you're printing all the way to the edge of your glass. The glass will warm up up faster in the middle and may never get to the full temp on the far edges. At least give it more time to heat before you start printing.

u/edrazzar · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Thanks for the fast response. I like the idea of the silicon thermal pad and was curious if you had any recommendations or if you use something like this.

I figured when I went to glass I wouls use kapton and glue, that is what worked really well when I was using my original Davinci, but I might try hairspray.

u/Bodhammer · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

The borosilicate is what I have on my Maker Select v2.1. I use Aqua Net Unscented (Purple can) and it works great. When the glass is cool, the prints just pop off (PLA, bed temp 60°). I am using with nine 1" square pads (perimeter and center)

u/i_hate_sidney_crosby · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Make sure you order some silicone pad too.

400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink

u/TheMadRocker · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Some use these without clamps. Their are other thickness's on amazon to suit your needs.

u/cweagans · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

My Maker Select came with a small putty knife. Maybe don't need the removal tool. Definitely skip on the z brace kit. That's too much. Hardware stores have the parts you need for < $5. Glass and thermal pad are slightly cheaper on Amazon (I used and

I seem to recall seeing some issues with Inland filament, though I can only find this thread:

I <3 BAMtack. It's inexpensive, prints well, doesn't have any strange odors (or much of an odor at all, for that matter), and is packaged well (vacuum bag with desiccant inside). I print mostly with their natural color PLA (, but I have a friend that prints with their colored PLAs all the time and he loves it.

I had a hard time with the DiiCooler mod, mainly because I still couldn't see the part printing very well. I opted for instead. Uses the same fan and everything, but it's a much easier print, and it gives you complete visibility in the front.

You may also be interested in taking a look at the mod list on It's pretty impressive.

u/TCL987 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I used pieces of Silicone Thermal Pad to "float" the glass on top of the bed. I bought the 0.5mm thick pad I linked to and it has worked but it really only touches the glass in a few spots. It's enough to keep it in place but a 1.0mm pad might make better contact and transfer heat better.

My Mini's heat bed seems to be lower in the centre so my glass mostly only makes contact at the corners, since yours is higher in the centre you might have an issue with the glass resting on the centre and rocking side to side. If you have this issue you might be able to use pieces of thinner silicone pad in the centre and pieces of a thicker pad in the corners.

Also you don't need to completely fill the gap between the heat bed and glass with thermal pad, doing so will make it difficult to remove the glass. Ideally you want it to stay in place while printing but pop off with a little force when lifted.

u/Wuzseen · 0 pointsr/3Dprinting

Hey! I got the same printer and was using ABS for my first couple prints. Couple things--First the built in items on the SD card are sliced for PLA printing, so you need to up the temps on the extruder and bed--I had success just upping it to 240/80. This got it to stick, but I had to get my z positioning (the thumb wheels on the corners) just right. Also I absolutely needed a raft for anything to really stick.

If you're slicing your own items in Cura, the default filament size is 2.8mm and you're probably using 1.75mm filament.

Unfortunately on any prints longer than an hour the ABS would start to curl off the bed--I chalked that up to the somewhat breezy room I have my printer set up in currently.

tl;dr Make sure your bed/z is leveled precisely so that a piece of standard printer paper can slide underneath the nozzle in each corner with resistance. Try upping your temps and checking your slicer settings as well.

/u/Redditull mentioned a glass bed. I picked one up on amazon, this fits the bed pretty nicely (just lays between the corner screws)--you do need to raise your z-stop, there's a metal lever contraption screwed into one of the sides of your printer's frame that you need to unscrew and raise. I also attached a PEI sheet to this and I used thermal pads to attach all this to the bed. This all improves adhesion greatly, I've mostly been using PLA after the difficulties I had but I would imagine ABS would stick just fine as well.

Borosilicate Glass

PEI Sheet

Thermal Sheet